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Everything posted by anthp

  1. Yeah I liked it too guys. You've got some great stuff on there and it if you had a way of returning to the other galleries that would make all the difference. Well done.
  2. Thanks John. Got any Sea and Sea ports for sale?? Sounds like the concensus is that 8" will be better. Anyone have first hand experience with this combo (8", 10.5 and Ike housing)?
  3. Ok, here is the other example I was thinking about earlier. In this shot, the subjects are roughly the same distance away from the lens. It is not a particularly good shot, but shows the sort of issues I'm asking about. Here is a "map" of where the crops are taken from: Here is a crop from the LHS where you can see significant softening: Here is a crop from closer to the centre where the subjects are roughly the same distance from the lens: And finally here is a shot from the other edge (with a further subject) which seems to be ok: Now perhaps I'm being a bit precious, but I would like to hear whether others have had better results behind the 8" dome. I would appreciate anyone else's insight. Thanks folks.
  4. Thanks you all for taking the time to comment on this issue and for posting other examples. Andrzej - thanks very much for taking the time to post those examples. The corners on yours look fine to me (great shots btw). I would be interested to see higher res crops of the edges if you happen to have them, but at the size you have posted they look great. Peter - thanks for your insights. I really appreciate seeing that perhaps it is not just me. Do you happen to have access to the 8" dome to compare result with that? I'm a bit reluctant to crop if I can avoid it, but perhaps that is the only way around it. Thanks Kim. I'm not sure about the dof issue. I initially thought that might be the cause, but the example I'm about to post suggests that it is perhaps something else.... Excellent explaination William. I remember you had some difficulties with domes when you first got your 5D. Has that been resolved now? Did you ever have the chance to compare the 5503.15 with the 8"? I wondered whether the entrance pupil issue you mentioned might have been the problem in this case too... Did you ever resolve your issue with domes?
  5. Have fun in the Galapagos - and good luck on your next local trip. You've already got it under control and are producing some good images.
  6. Snot - ewwwwww Given the numbers you posted above, I would go for decreasing shutter speed before you up the ISO, you still have a couple of stops of room to move there and that would probably be enough looking at the shots. Strobe positioning looks ok to me.
  7. Also found this review (admittedly not the same combination) which suggested possible sharpness advantages with the larger dome. http://www.photography.willandsam.com/Revi...dome/index2.htm
  8. Hello all, I recently shot some photos with my 10.5 behind the 5503.15 6" Ikelite dome. I noticed some significant softness along the edges of the frame on both sides and it wasn't just restricted to the corners. This softness was most obvious in close focus wide angle shots where the closest subject was around one foot (30 cm) from the dome. I don't see any softness when using the lens to take similar shots on land, so I'm assuming the port is at fault. I haven't got the 100% crops handy at the moment, but here is an example of what I mean. The aperture was f7.10 and I focused on the pier (not Michaela and her lovely new TopDawg - thanks Peter), so i would have expected DOF/focus to be a non-issue. I have other examples which I'll post soon where an essentially flat subject is sharp in the centre and soft on the edges. Does anyone else have much luck getting sharp corners with this combo? I noticed this test by Peter Schulz, but his subjects are some distance away from the lens. http://www.peterpeterpeter.com/ikelite/10-...tests/index.htm Will the Ikelite 8" dome help? Or should I just cut to the chase and lust for a Subal/Seacam and their respective FE2/FP ports? Not that I could afford them. Thanks for you help folks.
  9. The strobe on the foreground looks ok to me (if even a bit dark on shot 2), but you could consider getting a little more background light by slowing your shutter speed down. If this means that you end up with very slow speeds - which might result in too shakey an image - you might decide to continue shooting as you are though. It'll be a decision you have to make based on the conditions. The other alternative is to bump up your ISO to allow more ambient light to register at equivalent shutter/aperture combos. I really like the angle you have chosen on the seastar with the Pennatulaca's in the background. That's a great image. Your ambient kelp shot is good too. Look forward to seeing more.
  10. In addition to the Nikon D50 and D80, there are quite a few in the low end of the market: All Pentax models (K100D, K110D and DS/DL series) Samsung GX series Panasonic DMC-L1 High end of the market. Nikon D2/D200 and Canon SLRs remain CF.
  11. I suspect this "popping phenomenon" is a characteristic of older style Ike housings? It is something I've not experienced either. Or maybe it only happens in the northern hemisphere??...
  12. Bibble is UB Drew - don't know if that helps?
  13. It has to do with the difference in colour temperature between the ambient (ie. background) and strobe-lit portions of the image. If you start with a cool temperature strobe illuminating the foreground and "warm up" the image in the Raw converter (so you are warming foreground to compensate for the cool strobe temperature), then the background water will also have a less appealing warm tone - rather than a pleasing blue colour. Take a look at some of Alex Mustard's blues (and his article in UWP mag) for more detail on what I've tried to explain and examples of what I consider to be great blues.
  14. While it lasts... I imagine it will be slowly phased out over the coming months.
  15. Got that crowbar hidden behind your back don't you - I know you!!
  16. Is there some sort of S**t scared emoticon?? I'm a quakin' Mikey.
  17. Yeah, fair call Kees... it was a rush job the other day. But I'd still be very surprised if the buttons lined up on a D70 housing. It would be great if they did, but given the size differences and the alternative button/dial arrangement, it just doesn't look like it will work to me. Happy to be proven wrong though.
  18. Digital Photography Review have a "Hands On" Preview available online now...
  19. Very very nice Peter. Excellent compositions and particularly good work with just a single strobe. The pearl and feather stars are superb and the wrasse shot is also fantastic! I like the nudis too - characterful.
  20. Build quality and speed are two significant differences.
  21. H U G E C o n g r a t u l a t i o n s ! ! ! Well done Mike. Such an awesome shot. I was just in the newsagent and it wasn't out yet, have to wait a couple of days I guess. Looks really good anyway.
  22. I wonder if that'll mean a price drop on the D200?
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