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About Jofish

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    Sea Nettle

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  1. Hi Eagleray, You are right: you can press and rotate the rear dial. When you are in M mode (or C1, C2 preprogrammed modes based on M mode) you can change the aperture f or the speed SS by 1) pressing the rear dial until and not releasing it when you have f or SS highlighted, 2) keeping it pressed while rotating it in one or another direction until you get the value you want. It works fine after some practice! I am not sure why this works and the mode dial does not always work, but I assume it is because the rear dial on the housing exerts significant pressure on the rear dial on the camera... Altogether I am satisfied with the rear dial on the 10bar housing. The 10bar housing is really good value (under USD 1,000 or EUR 750) with a port for the 20mm lens and the port for the 45mm macro is also under USD 250 I think. I am not sure they have a port for the 7-14mm lens? I had a Canon G10 before the GF1 and a seatool housing for the G10: I found the port changing system a bit awkward/difficult and hope it is better for the seatool GF1 housing (changing port on the 10bar housing is so much easier). Other than that the housing for the G10 was very good with all dials/buttons/controls functioning well. At a price... The Inon for GF1 seems a beauty but so huge, with 2 optical fibers connectors for 2 strobes, nice controls and I think around 2kilogramms. A pity. On the other hand several ports seem to be available. To be checked when its is on sale. Wish you good luck in your difficult selection/choice... and to make good pictures.
  2. Also check this page re Inon housing for GF1: http://www.seaoptics.com.au/products/slr/inonX2-GF1.html
  3. Gf1 with Leica macro lens 45mm deliver really good pictures (see also fotosub70 pictures with seatool housing and two strobes; I am using only one strobe Inon z240 and no additional wet lens). I shoot only Macro in: M mode using pre programmed C1 or C2 modes; 100ISO; centered weighted average metering mode; focus in the center. The only things I change under water is the speed or aperture so the only button I use is the rear or back dial. And sometimes the playback to make sure the shot is ok. This is adapted to the problems below and allow me to concentrate on searching and making pictures. Personal experience: - the mode dial/button does not work properly on my housing so it can be frustrating under water, e.g. when trying to change to A mode; I have tried cleaning the inside wheel with alcohol but it did not help; for me this is a big inconvenience; - it is not possible with 45mm macro lens (port) to zoom manually or to change OIS (does not make sense anyway but OIS must be on before closing the housing!); this is a big inconvenience; - closing the lid takes some getting used to (lid must be forced against the housing before using the locks or the locks may be damaged (part plastic part metal); this is a small inconvenience; - some buttons have dual functions obtained by rotating then; this is not optimal and may be a pain if e.g. you like to check your picture and also use the AE/AF lock; this is a small inconvenience but a back plate with one button per function would have been better (I do not understand why 10bar did not develop a back plate with one button per function: may be to use existing production lines, molds, apparatuses, etc.?). About the Inon: looks nice in black but big and heavy; some information are now posted on inon web page. It seems that the button for changing the speed or aperture or compensation can only be rotated: this would be strange and must be checked. However it seems that there is one button per function (hopefully they work well). I also like Inon locking system. The macro lens may be focussed manually (magnets used): to be checked if the solution works fine. About the seatool: looks light; I think they have one button per function; may be worth checking. As a "conclusion": the seatool has some inconveniences but is "relatively" cheap (around usd 800-1000) compared to the Inon (presumably around USD 2000): if the inconveniences cited are not too important for you 10bar housing is a good option; otherwise wait for opinions on the Inon, Seatool (I have read somewhere that Patima may produce a housing for the GF1?). Hope it helps.
  4. Some pictures taken with GF1 in 10bar housing with 45mm macro lens. Shutter speed 1/125, diaphragm 11 (using preprogrammed C1, C2-1, C2-2 modes). Picture taken in RAW then developed in jpg using Panasonic supplied software and then compressed with Microsoft Office Picture Manager from ca 4-5MB (jpg) to ca 100kb. Other than that pictures not edited. The lens is in my opinion very good (may not be apparent in the attached pictures due mainly to bad compression with MOPM. Unfortunately no possibility with 10bar to manual focus the 45mm macro, which is a pity in some circumstances.
  5. No answer? This problem is really frustrating and I only use one mode underwater for fear I make a wrong mode selection by turning the key (the wheel has a smooth surface and that may be why it is difficult to change the mode : the wheel on the housing does not drive properly/at all the key on the camera). This is worth taking into account if you consider buying a 10bar housing for the GF1. The zoom wheel I am not using as I only shoot macro in autofocus mode but as the driven wheel also has a smooth surface I suspect it may be difficult to zoom correctly therewith. If I discover that the Inon has better wheels and more user friendly keys, I will regret my purchase of the 10bar .... Aaaarggghhhh....
  6. I have just got the 10bar housing for the GF1. I find it difficult to use the key mode: sometimes it works sometimes it does not. It works sometimes when I press down the key then turn it once fast. Has one of you had the same problem?
  7. Hi rand, I was in Wakatobi in June 2008. I flew from Europe to Bali (which has also good diving, eg Tulamben (North of Bali) but there are other good locations) and stayed a few days there before flying their charter flight to Wakatobi: it was quite an experience flying this old airplane with propellers and bags and suitcases in the back of the plane. But the flight was OK. The operation is well managed from the start at Denpasar airport where Wakatobi staff really take good care of you and get you through the gates. The resort is very nice, the rooms are comfortable, the staff friendly, and the food excellent : all divers who were there agreed that they had never been to as resort with such a good food quality and choice. The resort has a nice jetty which is usually full in the evening and a good place to talk to the other divers... and enjoy a drink or two and the view.... The dive operation is also well managed and the dive masters knowledgeable and professional. The dive center is very well organized. In addition to boat dives you can dive the house reef with a buddy. It is a nice house reef with some macro (eg nudibranches) and last year a blue ring octopus was spotted. I expected a lot from Wakatobi from the reading I made (eg Cousteau recommendation). You will see a lot of beautiful creatures (more Macro than big stuff) and I think it compares well with Manado, with Bunaken in any case because Lembeh is really something very special and may be unbeatable... As Drew or someone else said Komodo (some very good macro also) has also as good diving but you need to do a live aboard. In any case it was for me a very nice dive holiday. Hope it helps Good diving in Wakatobi . Jofish
  8. Hi Tim and Saint08, Maybe my message will appear twice due to technical glitches. As you suggested I have ordered just one Inon Z240. I cannot wait to try it in Lembeh in December and hope to manage to use it properly (apparently Manual mode is considered best with small aperture for DOF and relatively high speed when trying to isolate subject from the background, and then playing with strobe power...). From what you say and what I have read in the internet and elsewhere one strobe is fine for macro and improves the quality of the pictures. Buying a second one and/or switching to DSLR is something I will consider later (if only because of the cost involved). But underwater photography is so much fun! I will let you know in this forum in January my impressions. Ciao then, Jofish
  9. My choice: - Blue Corner Palau - Peleliu Palau - Barracuda point Sipadan - Richelieu Rock Thailand - Similan Island Thailand - Mile channel Yap - Cannibal Rock Komodo - Ras Mohammed Sharm el Sheikh - Bunaken - Lembeh So many other top dive sites...
  10. Thanks Rtrski and TheRealDrew, Actually I noticed that with the internal strovbe my macro pictures lacked a bit of punch and the colors were a bit too "soft" (sorry I am not a photo expert but I mean I was not happy with the colors (dull)) and the other pictures were often lousy (especially with the light coming from the front or at an angle therewith). I have made up my mind: I will get 2 Inon Z 240 (to deal with shadows and in case I take pictures of bigger fishes) and hope to have a good learning curve (I am not very gifted unfortunately ). I cannot wait to be in Lembeh to try and see the results with external strobes. Then if I decide to try DSLR this experience will be worthwhile. Jofish
  11. Hi, I have a Canon G10 and a Epoque housing. I am considering shifting to DSLR but before that I have a question: I am using the camera flash with a diffusor (white plastic stuff) and wondering if an external strobe like Sea and Sea Ys-110a or Inon Z240 TTL (I can later use them with a DSLR) would significantly improve the quality of the pictures? I also see most underwater photographers with 2 strobes: would one be enough for macrophotographie? Thanks for you input Good Day Jofish
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