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About renep

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    canon g10
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2 * UFL1 and Remora
  • Accessories
    fantasea arm, intova arm and tray
  1. I own a G10 and I've been using a G12, the focus speed is what is driving me away from the G series. I tried the G1X in a well lighted room with a lot of constrats and the focus was not especially fast. In fact, I don't know if it's any faster than my G10. The camera also seemed to be underpowered in the processing department. It's not quick.
  2. g10 is about $250 on ebay, the casing is $178 at B&H. I've had the g10 for three years now. It's pretty good except in low light. You'll have to keep it at ISO 80 and use strobes. If you want to do natural light you'll be better off with the g11 or g12. If I had to go for a new camera, I'd go for a larger sensor without mirror like the Panasonic GF1-2-3 or the Olympus Pen. You can find the EP1 with original Olympus casing for around 1200$.
  3. Nice work, the BW is the correct choice. I think you found the way to do interesting photography in reduced visibility. I dive the St-Laurent on the Qu├ębec side.
  4. I'm a freediver myself so I can appreciate the effort in swimming with a large SLR rig! I like the 4th one, with the light coming through the deck.
  5. You can now make comparisons with http://www.imaging-resource.com/IMCOMP/COMPS01.HTM Unfortunately, it looks very noisy to me.
  6. The condensation was only the first sign, seconds later I had a few onces of water in the casing. Since the casing is so old and never leaked before and it happened to the other guy in the same conditions. I don't think it was a defect or a user issue unless we consider an impossibly unlikely scenario of synchronized errors. On that day, my casing flooded three times in a row when the hot camera was inside (it never leaked without the camera inside). I checked everything with hysterical minutiae. Now that the camera and casing are cold. No leak. Nothing. Nada. I was using the same o ring, same camera, same lube, same guy, same everything. I did not even clean it just to be sure that I would not change anything except for the temperature of the casing and camera. I bet my friends casing would not leak today either. I will now check for camera and casing temperature. Not that I understand how it could affect the seal.
  7. It was quite a show. Two separate divers simultaneously flooding two different cameras. I'd be looking for answers that could explain why the two casings decided to flood at the same time. I've used that casing hundreds of times before this synchronized flooding. He has been using his for a few months. I'm thinking hot weather related.
  8. Yesterday Montreal had record high temperatures. I called a friend and we headed for the Seaway. He has a g12 in a canon casing. I have a g10 in a canon casing. Our gear was in the trunk of the car and may have been exposed to somewhat high temperatures. We got in the water at the same time. Five minutes later, we are both out of the water with flooded casings! I got my camera out without damage. He was not so lucky. I took the casing without the camera and went back in the water to see where the leak was. It did not leak. So I put the camera back in the casing and it flooded again after a few minutes. I got the camera out and tried the casing without the camera. Again, the casing was not leaking. I put the camera back in the casing and soon I had the tell tale fog and got the camera out of the water again. Why would the casing flood only when the camera is in it? Is it because the camera is too hot? Rene
  9. full foot fins are what you want, straps rob you of 40% of your energy according to tests on Mares Avanti Ls. If you are not a super good swimmer I would avoid stiff freediving fins. If you try some soft (long distance) freediving fins you will never go back. That said you may not require real freediving fins, I would suggest to Mares HP swimming fins to most people. Rene, (I'm a freediver) http://miami2montreal.com
  10. oh wow, these prices are not too bad considering the amounts we require. Buying 100 yards of 1.8 mm fishing mono is about 20$ but if you don't fish for tuna or spearfish you may as well go for the real product. It's 20$ for 50 feet! Thanks Marcell!
  11. I was tinkering with my UFL1 and I tested an old idea of mine. Looking at the Intova synch fiber optic cable I asked myself if that cable was different from normal clear monofilament. I tried a 20 inch then a 36 inch piece of 1.8 mm monofilament used for tuna fishing and found that I could trigger the flash every time. This monofilament is not even coated! Rene http://miami2montreal.com
  12. More importantly, will it be any better than other Olympus products in low light... My 520 is great in good light but unusable in low. I haven't found much amelioration with the 620. Not sure about the Pen line. Any opinions about low light performance of the Pen?
  13. renep


    I can normally stay in the water well over an hour without feeling the slightest bit of cold but on that day I had a small hole in my mitten. My right hand was frozen to the point of not being too useful. I was wearing a 6.5 mm Xtend from Dessault (high quality neoprene with smooth skin inside, meaning no lining) with 5 mm socks and mittens (no fingers, smooth skin inside obviously) and a face mask (my face is entirely protected from the water (I don't feel a thing). It's freediving equipment, we'd get cold really fast even in summer without that sort of insulation.
  14. I thought you'd enjoy this "photographic" moment Yep, that's ice... I'll be in Florida next week.
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