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Dihusky

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Dihusky last won the day on June 28 2015

Dihusky had the most liked content!

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About Dihusky

  • Rank
    Clownfish
  • Birthday 07/02/1953

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gold Coast
  • Interests
    Documentary production

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Panasonic GH4, Sony Z100
  • Camera Housing
    Looking to upgrade
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    DIY, 2 x 3000 lumen LED
  • Accessories
    Heaps
  • Industry Affiliation
    PADI Instructor Alumi
  1. Maybe a better approach would be to use Mired Filters on a daylight strobe, then you can vary the mired value according to the water conditions and the anticipated subject distance. A 4200k strobe kind of locks you in. The other way could be to adjust the WB in the camera, adjust to 7000K in camera would potentially have a similar effect as a 4200k strobe on 5600k in camera.
  2. GH4 is an awesome camera, I own one and shoot a heap of 4k material with it, mainly in the corporate sphere. For underwater I have a Nauticam housing, best engineering though that is not to take anything away from Aquatica, Ikelite.. fine with the advantage that you can watch the camera being flooded when you have a leak, lol... Lenses for underwater, my suggestion would be the Panasonic 7-14, nice and wide so you can get in close without fisheye distortion. The wider the better. Lighting: Strobes are for still photography not video, a good set (2) of led lights somewhere around 5ooo lumens each and daylight balance (5600-6000k) would be a good starting point, I am currently running 2 x 3000 lumen lights and want more power, particularly for clear water. The combination of a panny 7-14 with 2 powerful lights should work well as you can get close to your subject and light efficiently. Good luck
  3. Interested in selling the P714Z separately?
  4. These guys will cover just about any underwater connector you may want http://seaconworldwide.com/products/electrical-wet-mate/wet-con/
  5. Sea and Sea viewer sold and 28mm Nikonos lens sold
  6. Amazing.. would love Olympus to come up with something like this for the M4/3 system. The picture reminds me a bit of the shots one gets from the Frazier lens, which blew everyone away when they first appeared in his documentaries.
  7. Sea and Sea 12mm lens is sold but the viewer is still available, remainder still available, open to offers
  8. Looks like so exceptional photoshop work, particularly when looking at the soft focus duplicated bubbles in the lower portion of the picture. I am no expert, but I think this is how it has been done, but I would love to be proven wrong.
  9. Don't underestimate the importance of donuts, particularly with acrylic housings, which is not the case here. Donuts are mandatory in professional rigs with Matteboxes as reflections occur when glass filters are used in front of the lens. If light can get into the port from behind the lens (clear housings) then you have the same situation, stray light bouncing around where it is not needed and strange reflections are the result. If there is anything reflective within the port, in this case the red gear, then the inside surface of the dome will "see" this, it may also see a secondary reflection coming from the outer surface of the port, particularly apparent at night. Don't believe me.. try a piece of thick glass with black paper behind it and use it like a mirror but at an angle, not straight on, you will see two offset reflections.
  10. Fit a donut between the lens hood and the inside of the dome similar to the one in the Aquatica rig. The 7-14 is internal focusing and zooming to it won't cause a problem.
  11. Mmmm mine hasn't spotted the Nauticam housing that arrived yesterday, could get interesting... then again after 30 yrs we have an understanding (yes dear...)
  12. The donut is a solution to eliminating any extraneous light emanating from behind the front of the lens, provided it is correctly fitted. I see the solution to the reflection problem as a process of elimination, only once you have got rid of all other potential light sources except for reflective surfaces associated with the front of the lens, can you clearly establish the lens as being the source of the problem if the problem still exists. If it is the thin silver trim ring, then paint it out with a matt black paint and test again, it is one element in the source elimination methodology and until you apply a methodology you will be running in circles.
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