Jump to content

jsmoriss

Member
  • Content Count

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About jsmoriss

  • Rank
    Clownfish

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.mvpix.com/blog/jsmoriss/
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Montreal QC, Canada

Additional Info

  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 20D
  • Camera Housing
    Ikelite Canon 20D
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Dual Ikelite DS-125s
  • Accessories
    ULCS Arms
  1. Says right there in the article. :-) "Each carry-on weighed 35-38lbs fully loaded." js.
  2. Here's a break-down of my setup: http://www.mvpix.com/photographers/archive...yon-review.html js.
  3. I carry everything on, except for some spare strobes, flashlights, etc. js.
  4. Donna, My wife and I both have very large dSLR setups and dive bonaire regularly. Here's our pre and post dive procedure: - At the hotel (we usually stay at the Carib Inn) we mount the BC to the tanks and load 'em in the back of the pickup. The cameras go on the rear seats. We dunk the wetsuits and put them 1/2 on (just the bottom part) and off we go. A wet wetsuit will keep you nice and cool - just don't let it dry out. :-) - At the dive site, we recon the entry, put on the wetsuits and tanks (make sure there's a little air in the BC), put the mask on our forehead, grab the camera in one hand (our setup weighs a ton, but what're you gonna do) and the fins in the other. - At the water's edge, put the fins between your legs and use your free hand to put your mask and regulator in place. Grab the fins again and walk as far as you can while keeping the camera above water. Dunk the camera and stick your head underwater and check for leaks/bubbles. If it's all good, walk a bit farther and let yourself float. Put on your fins - if you have spring-type straps this is very quick. - Let the air out of your BC and off you go. We like to start the dive shallow to catch all the goodies in the shallows. - Post dive it's pretty much the same. Stay underwater until your in the 4-5 foot range, than take off your fins, plant your feet, and walk out. - We usually drop the tanks in the pickup (leaving the BCs on) and climb aboard to take off our wetsuits. That way you avoid picking up too much sand. If you bring along big 2L pop bottle with water in them, you can rinse off. - When we get back to the hotel, we pop the wetsuits in the rinse tank, remove the BCs from the tanks, etc., etc. We've done countless dives in Bonaire, and haven't seen anyone else that goes in or gets out faster then us. We also stay down longer, but that's another story... :-) js.
  5. Looks like the Oceanic Shadow to me: http://www.oceanicworldwide.com/p_masks_shadow.html My wife and I have four -- we love 'em. Low volume, soft, comfortable, and doesn't leak. Since the glass sits close to the face, the nose pocket can seem a little wide, but you get used to it. LateR! js.
  6. Bart, Indeed longer lenses can be a crutch. My wife used to love wide-angle, mostly because when we started, her camera could take wide-angle wet lenses, and mine could not. So, she developed a love for wide angle -- and indeed she's quite good at them. On the other hand, my camera could take wet close-up diopters, so I got to be pretty good with macros. :-) Eventually both of us were using 20Ds UW, and on this last trip, we both had 100mm macro lenses. This is where I could definately see a difference in our use of the lens. Where-as I tended to get as close as possible -- just before the lens couldn't focus anymore -- Melanie often used it to get shots of subjects she couldn't get close to, were passing by too far, etc. I don't have to tell you that her pictures were not as sharp as mine -- too much water between the camera and subject. It's a learning curve, I guess. After seeing the results, I expect that on our next trip she'll focus on the macro stuff when using the macro lens. :-) So, in the end, I think that if you're getting close enough with a macro lens that it can't focus anymore, you're probably a good candidate for super-macro. :-) LateR! js.
  7. Thanks to everyone for your excellent comments and suggestions! I've purchased the Kenko Pro 300 DG teleconverters (1.4x, 2x, and 3x) for my 100mm macro. I'm looking forward to doing some tests, and I'm confident Ike will be able to set me up with a longer 'flat focus port' for my 100mm. I don't expect the 3x will be usable UW, but you never know... :-) js.
  8. Like these? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller...1025&is=REG http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller...1029&is=REG Thanks, js.
  9. James, Canon's 1.4/2x Extenders don't work with the 100mm macro, BUT they do with the 180mm macro. :-) According to Canon's lens specs, the Extender EF 1.4x II would give the following on the 180mm macro: Apparent focal length (on a 20D): 403mm, f-stop 4.5, max. magnification 1.4, autofocus 0.8m. The Extender EF 2x II would give: Apparent focal length (on a 20D): 576mm, f-stop 6.7, max. magnification 2, autofocus N/A. I could use an EF12/25 extension tubes with the 100mm... That would give me the equivalent of 1.2x and 1.4x. Hmmmm... I have the EF12 extension tube and the 100mm macro. The 100mm sucks at 0.31m minimum focus distance, but is ok at 0.48m. I wonder what it would be like at 0.48m with the EF12 extension tube... Something to try when I get back home tonight. :-) Thanks! js.
  10. Hi everyone, I noticed very few people have used the 180mm Macro underwater -- Eric Cheng has used it with a 1Ds MKII (full frame sensor), but I can't find anyone that's tried it on a cropped sensor like the 20D. I have the 100mm macro, but I'd sometimes want to get even more zoom on a subject. Ike has offered to make me a custom flat port, but the width (3.2") would probably mean no manual focus. Since the 100mm can be difficult to auto-focus (at 0.31m it's near impossible, but 0.48m is ok), I can just imagine how difficult it would be with the 180mm... Anyone know if the 180mm also has a minimum-focus distance selector like the 100mm macro? BTW, I don't have the 180mm yet -- I'd be buying it specifically for UW use (although I'm sure it will be useful topside too). :-) Thanks, js.
  11. Damien, Yup, they were for buoyancy - made by Trident, I think. They worked ok, but were kind of floopie. I ended up developing a much better version and wrote a little article about it here: http://www.mvpix.com/photographers/archive...acro-setup.html Later! js.
  12. Sorry - referrer checking on images. :-) I've added wetpixel to the list of "approved" referrers... js.
  13. Ouch! I was looking at a way to mount a modeling light also, but chose (in my opinion) a more elegant route. :-) http://www.mvpix.com/photographers/images/...-jsmmv-3406.jpg I used an "Ikelite #9522 Removable Top Mount Assembly" cut down to fit a dSLR housing (you have to cut the pipe and drill a new hole). The assembly allows me to mount a light for night diving AND it works great as a general purpose carry handle. :-) LateR! js.
  14. Dave, I did something similiar, but used larger diameter pipes, and used ULCS tri-clamps to mount them next to my substrobes: http://www.mvpix.com/photographers/archive...acro-setup.html LateR! js.
  15. Cor, I tried a bunch of different techniques, including foam, cork, and others. In the end, here's what worked best for me: http://www.mvpix.com/photographers/archive...acro-setup.html LateR! js.
×
×
  • Create New...