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Everything posted by mrmishkin

  1. Have you tried downloading the latest version of adobe camera RAW? It is available on their website as a free download. I couldnt' just RAW capability in photoshop untill I installed the latest version. Hope this helps.
  2. I also buy from them, very reliable outfit. I believe they also own leisurepro which sells scuba gear. Never had a problem with them. Aaron
  3. I don't have my camera in front of me but believe there is an option called recview when you change this it changes view on the screen. Hope it works. Will experiment later.
  4. Hi I wanted to put up some photos and try to get some criticism to help me improve my images. This was my first trip with my c-5060, before that I just used the aquashots. I'm trying to work to become a better photographer, and any small pointers you all could give out with respect to these images would be appreciated. I have alreadly learned a lot from wetpixel, and am happy with my results but think their is always room for improvement. Keep in mind that I am shooting with one strobe, the AQ/S (the one that comes with the aquashot). The strobe is either full intensity or off. I am saving up for a DS-50 and manual controller. All images were shot in RAW and I tweaked them with what looks best to me. Enjoy the photos and feel free to throw in some tips. Some more can be found on my site at http://www.amishkin.com/diving/trips/Cozum...12-04/trips.htm Thanks.
  5. Hi All I just wanted to share a video that was taken by a friend of mine while diving in Mexico. I worked this past summer in Cozumel and had the chance to take an advanced nitrox and staged deco course. The dive site was absolutly amazing! A friend came along to video the dive and I finally ripped it from the DVD for my site. The dive was very cool with the first 100 feet being freshwater, then at 100 feet a 10 foot thick sulfur cloud existed, and below the sulfur was saltwater. An island comes through the sulfur cloud and the whole scene looks like something out of Tim Burton Movie. The dive site was inland and is believed to be a sinkhole, if anyone would like more info feel free to contact me. Anyways it was a very cool dive. enjoy!
  6. Nice Shots!! I especially like the toad fish and seahorse shot. What kind of camera and strobe setup are you using?
  7. Hi I was wondering if a housing is available for the c-7070. Will Ike's housing for the c-5060 work with the c-7070? TTL to DS-50 or 125? I'd give a big thought to investing in an ike housing if I knew I could upgrade and drop in a 7070. Keep us updated!
  8. Hi In my experience I'd say go for the wide angle. In addition check which cameras can shoot in RAW. Being able to manually shift white balance will give you a huge advantage for getting better quality pictures. In terms of going for more megapixels, you should evaluate what you are going to be doing with your shots. If you plan on making 16x20 prints or shooting for publication then go more megapixels. If you'd just like to make some 4x5 or 8x10s and throw them on a webpage, then you might want to look to save a couple bucks. Hope this helps.
  9. First off I am semi new to underwater digital photography so you might get better advice from someone else but I thought I'd give it a shot. 1. When I use the flash I get the reflections off of the particles (so I turn it off), does using a strobe fix this or make it worse? Using a strobe will help eliminate backscatter (from the suspended particles in the water) You will want to get a deflector or block out camera flash for the best performance. 2. Any advise on a strobe that would work for this camera? Don't know about the strobe. But from others recommendations I'd say the Ikelite DS50 with a TTL sensor would most likely work with this camera. You can ask Ike for confirmation, but I believe it works with the preflash system. I also believe inon makes a compatible strobe. 3. CANON doesn't make a lens cover for the housing, has anyone been able to find one made by others? What exactly are you referring to? A protective lens cover? 4. Is a diffuser necessary for the camera flash? If so where is there one available? I read in one of the posts that a piece of paper would be sufficient, not sure? Some people like to use a diffuser for less harsh shadows. Sometimes it’s desired but not necessary. 5. I'm still getting the heavy blue/green tint, can the white balance be customized by shooting at white material underwater Shooting without a flash at depth will yield the heavy blue/green tint, some white balance correction can be made but a strobe will be your best bet to really bring out the colors. If you camera has the capability to shoot RAW this allows you to make some color corrections while preserving quality. I hope this helps and if someone has a correction, or my thinking is wrong feel free to jump in.
  10. I'm a big fan of pelican cases. I've had my camera gear literally float down rapids and been thrown around, without any ill effects. However if you are staying pretty civilized, you could go with a padded camera case from Lowe Pro or another. As for sizes that is pretty much up to you. Pelicans come in many sizes. I think the 1510 carry on would probably be a good choice for your gear. Just keep the dimensions in mind and remember to add a few inches for foam or dividers. Hope that helps! Aaron
  11. Hi all I'm heading off to cozumel in a few weeks and wanted to to add a strobe to my setup. I have an old ikelite AQ/S that I would like to use with my C-5060 and PT-020 The strobe is optically triggered and works fine when my camera is set to slave. My question is regarding mounting. I know I need a tray and arm and wanted to know: 1: Are the connectors that attach the strobes to the arm standard? What kind of arm and tray do you recommend? See photo. 2: What are the advantages of using a fiber optic cable for triggering? Will it reduce backscatter or will the strobe compensate for that? Any help would be appreciated. Oh and for those just suggesting I get a DS-50. I would love to but as a poor college student I can't afford it. Fortunatly my dad dives so I get to come with him on trips!! Thanks for your help.
  12. Hi I was wondering if anyone has experience with andy's drysuits specifically the WR3 neck and wrist changeable seals. My dive club presently has Andy's drysuits and would like to switch to the WR3 field changeable seal system. Do the wrist seals ever pop off? Any experiences would be appreciated. Thanks
  13. DEMA will be on october 13-16 in Houston Texas check out www.demashow.com for more info. Aaron
  14. I just received this from DEPP after inquiring about the necessity of insuring gear and thought I would pass it along. Hello, We did require one BCD, one Regulator and one other dive item be listed. That is no longer necessary as that restriction was lifted 3 weeks ago. Camera gear only is now eligible. Regards, Customer Service
  15. Hi Thanks for all the responses. After thinking back and analyzing the situation I'm pretty sure the 1st o-ring did not leak. I've spent some time with the housing and think this is what happened. Some water got into the groove and hit the outer o-ring, which is supposed to happen. Because the water was slightly green it reflected around a little bit and made me think I had breached the 1st o-ring. Try as I might I can't see the inner o-ring while the camera is in the housing. Then I looked from the top of the housing and saw green in between o-rings, in fact this was in between the housing door but before the outer o-ring. I don't have flood insurance yet so I just came up the 3 feet and handed the camera off. Glad I did visibility was so poor that it would have been difficult to get any half decent shots. Thanks for all your help
  16. I was out on a dive today and noticed as I was descending that the 1st o-ring was wet. The second o-ring (the one on the main part of housing) kept water out of the housing, but I was a little surprised that water breached the 1st o-ring. Is this supposed to happen? Has anyone experienced this. I am very meticulous about keeping my o ring and sealing surfaces clean. It would be kind of easy to miss but I was descended through pea soupy layer and saw the green in between the o-rings. I quickly returned to the surface and didn't dive with the camera. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  17. I hate when this happens I just bought a 512 card last month for close to this price. Oh well... 1GB Ultra II CF Card at buy.com Enjoy it
  18. I finally got the articles sent up from the medical school! Quite interesting Thoughts and summary from the article: Small group of divers 6 males mean age 26 Double blind study (neither diver nor administer knew which gas was used) Inflation gas evacuated and purged 3 times Procedure of evacuation verified with an O2 sensor indication 0% O2 after second purging 6 skin temperature sensors and 1 rectal sensor were employed Mean water temperature was rather cold at 2 Celsius or 36 Fahrenheit Urinary output was 48% larger on Argon subjectively no diver considered one dive warmer than the next "Temperature loss was not statistically different comparing air and argon measurements." Length of time between when divers reported being somewhat cold was not statistically different. Some of this may be do the low sample size Type II error. Discussion of using an argon welding gas containing CO2 which forms carbonic acid creating a burning sensation or warming effect through skin irritation. Possibility that large amount of heat loss occurred in hands (wet gloves) and face contributed to seen data. It seems to me that the study really does prove that in a diving scenario argon shows no perceivable difference. The perceived difference maybe psychosomatic.
  19. Hi Do you have a UV or other protective filter on? Perhaps removing it would give you just enough clearance so the problem won't occur. Not sure but an idea. Aaron
  20. -Craig I agree with what you said and the human body cannot really detect small temperature differences. When diving in artic conditions or for extended times, I think it would make a difference. What interests me is that someone (likely smarter than me) is telling me there is no real difference. I'm going to check out the study, perhaps my understanding is wrong. Regardless as soon as it hits my inbox I'll read through it and summarize it for the benefit of all. Aaron
  21. That's an interesting article and I'm going to have the full text sent to me from either DAN or the medical school Having just taken a bioheat transport class, I'd like to work out that problem. Theoretically argon should be warmer. It has a lower specific heat. I found a decent article for those that are interested in further argon information (warning there is math) http://www.decompression.org/maiken/Why_Argon.htm Unless you are really interested skip the math and look at the Field practice and conclusion. Aaron
  22. Hey I just spotted this and figured I'd pass it on. 25 free digital prints at target. I'm not sure how great the quality is going to be but hey free is free. Free Prints! Coupon is printable Aaron
  23. Goodness, you should be giving me tips on the drysuit... I don't dive so often in the cold (there's not a lot of exciting diving in Pennsylvania) As for the new undergarments I've heard amazing things about weezle wear http://www.weezle.co.uk/ They have a few American distributors. Who else would know more about cold water diving than the British, perhaps someone else on the board could help you out with more information about the weezle wear. Aaron
  24. I definilty agree with Herb on this one. It would be rather dumb to tighten your vent valve. Most dives are at least a little multilevel and gas in the suit expands and contracts. You want to be able to vent the expanding gas. It has been my experience that persons new to drysuit diving often 1.)wear cotton or other non wicking fibers 2.) have too much gas in their suit. Just by wearing the proper layers you'll be amazed at the warmth. I dove with a friend who wore cotton sweatpants, sweatshirt, and a $1500 drysuit. After buying a some polypropelene long underwear and a fleece, he was amazed at the difference. My suggestion is to look closely at your layers first and then if you need argon look there. Aaron
  25. dah!!! I just spent 15 minutes writing a reply that was lost!! It had specific heats, molar masses everything. In a short non technical way. Argon is a denser gas with a lower specific heat so it will resist heat transfer and insulate better than air. As for the bouancy issue, I do not believe it to be the case. I dive a drysuit and have tried argon. The mass of the gas is not that much different and when you get them wet everything changes. So minor differnece in mass can be accounted for by changing volumes ie you put less gas in your suit. technically you will be heavier on argon, in case something goes wrong (free flow) you should weight for air. Just my opinion. that way you can switch to an extra inflator hose or your bcd hose to fill your drysuit and vent it as you normally would during an ascent. Hope that helps and I wonder where my "scientific" post went. Sometimes being an engineering student get the better of me. Aaron
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