Posts posted by colinm
I use my iPad on holiday to save and review my photos. I made the mistake of updating my iPad from IOS 7 to IOS 8, and now trying to scroll through my uploaded RAW images is so slow, it is painful, and pretty much useless.
What are others doing to get some level of usability out of iPads with IOS 8 when reviewing RAW images?
Could be the autofocus assist also. Need to switch this off.
Thanks Alex. This was on. Doh!
Thanks for the input guys. A few things to check out.
Great hammerhead. Sorry I forgot to mention it originally. The ACC circuit is engaged. The button is pressed in.
Needing some help here.
I've got a 7D and I'm not sure if I've messed with a setting but it has started to pre-flash a lot. The setup is the camera's own flash on manual at its minimum power, a couple of Z240s on manual, and a FIX500 as a focus light.
I'm wondering if the camera's own flash being on 1st or 2nd curtain would make it more or less prone to pre-flash?
All help, and suggestions most welcome.
I like to resurrect this old thread and go back to the original question.
I can get a used RDX450D at a decent price and have a 500D
So you who had these housings please remember back in those days ;-), what can't I do with the RDX450D housing?
I sold my RDX450D to a guy who had a 500D. From what I remember both cameras have exactly the same buttons and button locations and so will fit in the 450D housing. I think the problem comes with the 550D as the camera is ever so slightly bigger.
I had a single drop of water which came through one of the switches on my FIX LED48DX now problems with circuit board with light not turning off and not all the LEDs lighting uniformly. Can't find out to dismantle it, i.e. get the circuit board out, switches off. Or is their anyone in the UK who repairs these lights?
If I can get it repaired any way to routinely re-greese the switch O rings?
I had a similar issue with my Fix500LED earlier in the year. I contacted FIX in Japan, and my light was fixed without any issues
The service was great.
Might be worth contacting them.
I've figured out how to get the rotary switch apart on mine, but it is not easy to figure out how to do it. Once you know, it's easy, but you could easily damage it trying to figure it out. You basically have to make a thin 90 degree tool that you can slide under the edge of the rotary switch in order to push the face off. Once you do this, you can start to unscrew and dismantle the switch.
I'd like to thank FIX Fisheye for repairing my flooded light. Even though it is a number of years old it was repaired at no charge.
Thanks for the replies guys.
I'll contact FIX and see what the go is.
I've heard that you are not supposed to travel with your camera inside the housing... Do you subscribe to that theory? I'm carrying on (or at least I hope so)
I always travel with my camera inside the housing. Always make sure you remove the 'O' ring from the groove before closing it up. Otherwise, opening the housing when you land again can be very hard due to the housing equalising to the lower cabin pressurre at altitude and then being held shut by he higher external pressure when you land.
Pelican cases have a pressure equalising valve to counter this.
I always put bits of coloured paper beween the housing halves to remind me that the 'O' ring is not in its groove!
I've tried it once myself. Set the timer on 10 seconds, and set the camera to take 5 shots.
My new camera unfortunately doesn't have the multi shot self timer function.
My FIX LED500 focus light had just enough of a flood to cause it to stop working.
I've taken the light apart and it looks as though the water came in through the switch, as the two components on below the switch showed signs of water ingress.
Anyone else had a similar issue, and importantly, were you able to have the light repaired?
I'm in the process of buying a Nauticam housing for my recently purchased 7D.
Looking at the port chart I see there is a couple of options when it comes to ports for macro lenses. I've got a 60mm and 100mm, and my questions are:
1. Should I buy the dedicated macro ports or buy the compact port base and appropriate compact ports?
2. What are the pros and con of both set up. Ignoring for now the extra O ring with one set up.
Thanks in advance
Thanks for the information contained in this thread. It has made things clearer for me as well.
Am I correct in thinking that whatever colour the print is on the options on the left hand dial, (yellow, white, or green), then this corresponds to the different coloured control options on the righthand dial?
I'm a little confused about the part number.
Bill, your link to reef is for part number 26214 which I can't find on the nauticam website
There is an optical fibre cable on reef for Nauticam to Inon - part number 26211 which looks like the one Peter posted previously
However on Backscatter, the Nauticam to Inon cable (part 26211) looks different in the photo to the one on reef while the Nauticam to S&S cable (part 26212) looks like the one on reef.
Is there a photo of what part 26214 looks like??
I wouldn't be buying any fibre cables that have a Nauticam connector. You are wanting S&S to Inon. I'd give Peter a call. He's just up the road from you, and the picture of the cable he posted is the same as I have.
I have an RDX 450 housing with Inon Z240 strobes.
I bought two Sea & Sea fibre optic cables and two Inon L-connector kits. You then cut one of the S&S ends off of each cable and fit the Inon connector in its place.
I got all the bits and pieces from Yuzo at UWdigitalcamera.com. He is very helpful with making sure you get the correct bits and pieces. The links on what I bought are below.
Hope this helps.
I know this is a bit of an old thread, but it sounds as though a lot of the recent posters are having trim issues due to carrying too much lead.
I'm 5'8" and weigh 154lb(70kg). When I'm diving twin 10.5ltr steels, Diverite Transpac, DUI 50/50, Weezle Ext, and 5mm hood, I wear 6lbs of lead. In a 3mm one piece wetsuit and a single Ali 11ltr I wear 5lbs of lead.
In the past I've gone to a shallow dive site, no more than 5m, (2-3m is ideal), with about 50bar in whatever cylinder/s I'm using and sorted out my ballast. I do it with a completely empty BC, and if I'm in the drysuit, just enough air to remove the squeeze. When the cylinders are near empty is the best time to sort out how much lead you need.
If you feel happy to take the controls apart yourself I would remove all the old O-rings, take them to an O-ring/seal supplier and they will be able to match them for you. Size and rubber hardness.
I shot this wobbegong there two weeks ago!
Weird looking Wobbie
Viewing RAW images with IOS 8
in Shooting Technique, Workflow and Editing
Posted · Edited by colinm
Thanks for the replies guys. I went to the local Apple shop, and the 'Genius', was saying that unless Apple issue an update to return the RAW functionality, then for the time being anybody with IOS 8 is screwed....
Atobit. Getting the RAWs back off the iPad is easy if you are using a Mac. You just use Image Preview to import them into a folder. Not sure what the deal is with a PC.