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ScubaBob

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Everything posted by ScubaBob

  1. You should be able to find them - both Ikelite and Nauticam made them. The Nauticam housing is nice. Not as good as the GH 4/GH5 housings, but also much smaller. I still love mine - just been too busy with work to dive! (Blasphemy I know). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Thanks by the way! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. I've started a project to retrofit one of the "small batch" triggers from this site but have yet to finish it. You are right that the housing and space above the camera is tight. You would have to remove the assembly to open the camera flash, which of course wouldn't be an issue as you wouldn't be using it. I'll try to do some measurements to give you an idea of what might fit. I've left mine on 1/125 for pics with strobes, which I only shoot about 5% of the time. I haven't had any motion blur that I could see, but obviously lose some flexibility on aperture and ISO. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. I did test the MWB on the GX85 on the 3 day. I was able to get a good MWB at a very dark 45fsw. That being said, the camera is not great in low light and both shots are a bit noisy. I will post these shots in the next couple of days. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. I personally like the layout of the buttons on the Nauticam housings, specifically for the GH4 and GH5. The dedicated large back button focus, and re-routed WB and ISO buttons make for very intuitive operation. The GH2 and GX85 housings do not have these conveniences. I can't speak for the other housings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. It's an issue with the OP's account. Click on the "view original" link below each pic and you can see them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I just changed out the filter folder the way trickster described. I remember seeing mention of needing an additional plastic spacer/shim - but I did not find that step necessary. Here's that thread: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/thread/3480692 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I used to use tape to attach the filter, then I ended up buying the filter holder made for the 8mm fisheye lens and installed that on the back the lens. I don't see any reason to use glue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Saw one for sell here a few months ago: https://www.facebook.com/groups/273948869393071/permalink/1351901114931169/?sale_post_id=1351901114931169 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. You know, I still haven't done much testing around this, I've mainly been using artificial lighting. I have a 3 day trip this weekend so I will do some tests and get back to you next week. Bobby Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. That parrotfish didn't seem to like your housing, but you got some great footage!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Yes - I use these. http://www.flex-arm.com/en/flex-arm-underwater-with-ball-mount.html Are you looking to adapt a standard ball to the base (shown above) of a loc-line or the top end? I have a couple extra of the top end kind I can sell that I'm not using (I'm using the base one to connect the flex arm to the housing, and flex to YS mount to attach to strobes/lights. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. A couple points of consideration: 1) 60p requires a faster shutter speed and, subsequently, more light. Depending on what you are shooting, and how you plan to treat the footage in post, 1080p60 may be a better option then 4k 30p. In general though, the 4K I've downrezzed looks better than native 1080 footage. 2) While true that standard definition footage doesn't look as good on a 1080 or 4K display, a high quality source (especially true 480p footage from a DVD) looks much better than more compressed and especially interlaced footage. Also, the negative affects up upscaling are much more apparent going from 480 to 1080, then going from 1080 to 4K. The size of the display (and quality of the scaling) make a big difference here as well. I believe some of this has to do with what the human eye is able to perceive in detail. The same (quality) 1080 footage may look perfectly fine on a 8k 60" display at home, but when projected on a large screen at 8k the drop in quality will be more obvious. 3) I'll still watch a great dive film in any resolution Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. I've generally not taken my old tripod setup when I've shot wide (7-14mm On M43), only when I'm shooting macro (60mm) or with my general purpose (12-50mm) lens. I plan to start using my new tripod/quatri-pod setup on every dive now. The telescoping legs are more attractive for this as well.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Sure thing, see below. Here's a link to the video: And BLOG entry: http://www.ti-leidland.no/en/blog/46-scubadiving/136-diy-quatropod-for-underwater-housing Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  15. Four years of German in HS you think I would know that hah! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Akku = battery? Two dives is pushing it for GX85 - battery life is my only issue with camera. My dives do tend to be long-ish (50-80 minutes) so I have been switching batteries between dives. I leave LCD on and have been averaging 50 flash fires per dive, approximately 10-15 minutes of recording time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. The xit tripods seem like a great way to go. I almost went that route until I stumbled upon TI1976's DIY design. I replicated that design fairly closely and love the results. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. The GH5 housing looks to be close to the same size as the GH4 housing, but Nauticam did switch to a 2 piece design vs 1pc how past M43 housings have been, which is probably due to camera size. GH5 housing size is likely more compact the A7SII housing due to port size. Here a picture of Chris Dimitrius with the GH5: https://instagram.com/p/BS4juCkho0L/ I actually got into M43 due to video quality over camera size, however size was a consideration. 5 years ago when I made the switch from camcorders to M43 I was almost set on the 5DMkII but fell in love with the video of the GH2. I'm happy with my choice and although the GH line is getting a little heftier, it's still pretty compact. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. I got that too, depending upon the shot and ambient light. Light is lost between the camera and the subject much in the same way light is lost between the surface and the bottom. So if you are white balanced on sand 8' from the camera, anything beyond (or below) that point is going to get more blue/green, and anything above or closer than that point is going to have more reds. MWB locks in white so if you change your shot you are bound to have unpredictable results on exposure and white balance. You see how the shots here go from more blue to more magenta when I start to pan up with the sea lions (shot with GH4): https://vimeo.com/119429211 I can't see how 4:2:0, 4:2:2, or even 4:4:4 will change this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. I'll try to test this when I get my hands on the camera and housing. I have mostly moved away from auto focus, but have had some success with some of the GH4 tracking modes. It does become one more thing to keep track of when shooting in full manual mode, but when focus is messed up I know it's my fault for not setting it right, not the cameras fault for deciding to focus on some algae rather then the rhinophores I originally focused on. I find auto-focus, using back button focus, is "good enough" to get close and then I can adjust as needed (using manual focus knob if available, or by moving camera). Nauticam's addition of the large back button focus control on the GH4 housing was genius - and I really wish they had it on the GX85 housing. I was happy to see that it's been retained on the NA-GH5 housing. Auto focus becomes increasingly challenging as you 1) reduce your depth of field, 2) increase the resolution and 3) switch to larger sensor cameras (related to #1 above). Small sensor dedicated video cameras are better at autofocus and keeping your subject in the "sweet spot". With the 60mm macro lens wide open your depth of field is 1-3cm at best. Shooting with the 7-14mm you obviously have a little more breathing room - but cameras AF modes still seem to "zone out" on the blue water occasionally. Thanks for letting me ramble.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  21. So you are saying the the GH5 does not have enough HP to handle its recording functions AND auto focus without using an external recorder? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. The 60mm is a different beast entirely when it comes to autofocus. I find it better to back button focus and tweak with manual focus knob as needed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  23. I stopped using auto-focus :-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. I shot with the GH5 a couple weeks ago (review http://www.uwphotographyguide.com/panasonic-lumix-gh5-camera-review) - and still image quality was superb. From the instagram pic it looks like there is an M43 flash trigger. Will be great if that's included - but I doubt it (for the video-centric reasons above). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. I would only recommend the 12-50 over the 14-42PZ if you are using the Nauticam port that allows you to use the macro button. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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