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Dee

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Posts posted by Dee


  1. Jim,

     

    I've been using a Sea & Sea YS90DX for a couple of years with my C-4040/PT-010 rig. It's totally manual and connected by a fiber optic cable. Set your camera to fill flash, the strobe to Pre- and Slave and you're good to go.

     

    The FO cable is very secure with the velcro patch and I've never had any instances of it coming loose or loosing the connestion. There are 12 power settings on the back of the strobe, making it extremely easy to change them.

     

    If you have any specific questions, please ask.

     

    Dee


  2. That would work except I have Ikelite Deluxe ball arms.

    Delta...you don't have to put the GB-Digital Lens Dock on the strobe arm. It will mount on the housing itself, out of the way and safe from damage. Being able to mount the GB-DLD on top of my housing is one of the many advantages. If it were mounted below, as in some of the home made ones, I would think it would leave the lens wide open to being scratched. With mine mounted on top, it is protected in part by the strobe arm.

     

    You really can't beat how easy the GB-DLD is to use and how securely it holds your lens. No threading, just tighten a thumb screw and it holds!


  3. But don't you need three hands?  One to hold the camera, one for the macro lens, and one for the WA lens?  Or do you rely on the "save-a-lens" cable while you are changing the lenses?

     

    Incidentally, I think the macro lens has no "neck" (if it's the one I'm thinking of) so it's hard to tie something onto it without a clamp of some sort.

     

    -David

    Sorry for the delay in responding....

     

    No, I don't need 3 hands. As you surmissed, I let one lens 'dangle' as I change to the other. The thin steel cables do not get in the way, nor do they twist and tangle. I don't have a macro lens in front of me but I think the cable tie is to be put around the outside of the lens. If you tighten it well, it's stable.

     

    As for extra cable ties and steel Save-A-Lens cables, extras can be had from gbundersea for a small nominal fee. Just let them know how many you need when you order it. Since these are left on the lenses, you don't need to replace them.

     

    Yes, you can probably shop around and find materials that will make due then work out the best ways to attach everything securely. But why would you do that when it's all been done for you at a very reasonable price? Heck, you'll save $40 in gas, especially with todays gas prices, not having to chase down the parts!


  4. Patterns....The Digital Lens Dock from gbundersea has his Save-A-Lens system included. The lenses are attached to the dock via small steel flexible cables. And you only need one lens dock. While the macro is on your housing, the WA is in the dock and vice versa.

     

    I love mine and think it's well worth the price for the piece of mind that I won't lose a lens!


  5. Greg at gbundersea.com has a new product for digital users. A lens caddy called the Digital Lens Dock. This is the answer to my prayers! I got used to switching lenses underwater with my first camera, an MX-10. I also depended on the Save-A-Lens kit for security when changing those lenses. I recently added a S&S WAL L lens to my digital set-up but sorely missed a secure place to carry it. Greg has addressed both problems.

     

    dld3_72.jpg

     

    The new DLD will fit all threaded 67mm lenses and also incorporates the Save-A-Lens. As you can see it's very unobtrusive. It will also fit a variety of housings and/or strobe arms. At $39.95 it's excellent insurance against loss and/or damage of our expensive lenses.


  6. James....I've always heard not to store batteries loose because the + and -ends will touch causing problems.

     

    I use my batteries in sets of 4 and mark the sets A, B, C and D. For storage, I use old tape back-up cases (you use what you have!) and they fit almost perfectly. Fully charged batteries are postioned vertically and used ones are positioned horizontally. Standing up = live, laying down = dead....get it? ;) I also draw that little diagram on one side of the box in case I forget!


  7. I'm mostly self-taught. My first 'class' was a PADI U/W photography cert. that was totally useless. Did a couple of dives with a camera in hand, one I didn't take but 3 pictures and was issued a card!

     

    About 3 years ago, I had the chance to take a S&S sponsored class while in Cozumel. Other than a few tips, it just served to show me I had taught myself pretty well. That sounds snotty and I don't mean it that way! My basic problem has always been the opportunity to actually take u/w pictures in clear salt water. Our local lakes are fun to dive but leave alot to be desired for photography.

     

    Since going digital, I've learned alot from the internet. From this and other forums. With digital, I've had to learn about compression, file sizes, better battery life, imaging programs, printers, etc. With the old film camera, my biggest problem was what brand of film to buy!

     

    But to answer your basic question...I just got in the water with a camera and then read the book.


  8. Hello....I'm located just east of Houston. I got certified in 1997 and did my first dive with a MX-10 in hand. I've done very few dives without one. Started with the MX-10 for a couple years then moved on to a S&S MMII-EX and fell farther in love with macro. I was getting really tired of the double strobe mad-spider thing and film in general so this spring I went digital with an Oly C-4040/PT-10/S&S YS90-DX. I'm really enjoying the smaller size as well as all the advantages of digital.

     

    I've been a DM for about 4 years and enjoy working with students but what I like even more is mentoring those new divers who are really serious about their diving and are eager to start the real learning stage. I've been a seamtress for years, owned a quilt shop for several years, and now make do-rags for divers. Dee-Rags

     

    Aquariums have been a part of life since I was a child. I think I've had alittle bit of everything over the years! James, I think I've talked to you a few times over on Reef.org. Didn't realize it was you!


  9. I've been using the Infinity arms for a several years, first on my S&S MMII and now on my Fisheye tray. I added some length to the Fisheye arm.

     

    I don't know what is considered 'heavy strobes' but my old S&S YS50 (2) and the current S&S YS90DX do/did not cause any floppiness.

     

    Underwater they are very stable and currents don't effect them. Very easy to reposition and they stay in place until you move them again.

     

    On land is a different story...they will flop. I bend the arm over the top of the housing, like a basket handle, and that solves the land problem. When I was using 2 arms, I criss-crossed them and used it for a carrying handle.

     

    I specifically chose the Fisheye tray for my PT-10 because of the locline arm. They are also very easy to clean and store...just snap them apart. I can also shorten or lengthen them as I choose.


  10. Why not email Ike and ask him if he has any?

     

    I like the idea of your lens caddy except for two things.

     

    1) It takes alot of dexterity to screw the len onto the camera because of those small threads. I'm sure the same goes for your caddy. From my experience changing lenses on my old S&S MMII, I don't always have the time or the patience for that.

    I'd sure want that lens attached to 'something' in case I dropped it trying to screw it onto either the caddy or the housing.

     

    2) Even with a neoprene lens cover on, with the lens at the bottom of the tray it could take some abuse. At the least it could get in the way of close work on the bottom.

     

    I applaud you your ingenuity. I certainly haven't come up with something but the 2 things I've mentioned are things that went through my mind the last time I had mine u/w.

     

    Email Ike and see if he has a cover!

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