akalars

Try using this plugin. If you want to export more than 10 images at once you have to donate. Guess the minimum donation is 0.1$ so that should be affordable http://www.photographers-toolbox.com/products/lrmogrify2.php not all fonts work, so try a few different.

Google translater has done a good job of translating this, which is impressive. On the topic of whaling. I think they capture at the moment is defined as non commercial. It is supposedly done for research or some such reason and they just happen to sell the byproducts, or was that the seals?? I haven't seen much about whaling in Norwegian media lately. After reading this post I decided to see what google would turn up on the subject. I found a few articles from mid February 2010 about the possibility that IWC is going allow commercial capture of whales again. The articles around this topic seemed more concerned about what to do about the meat, that none seems to want, than opposition the actual capture. After that I could only find a few articles about how activists are trying to prevent whaling. Which leads me to think that a letter written in danish to our (arrogant) prime minister is not going to have any effect.

I have to say that would be a awesome piece of software to have. I have e-mailed you a export file of oa few dives, let me know if you need more.

I have been using a few different techniques for getting focus. I often carry a focus light mounted to my camera to shine a light where I want to get focus. I have also used my main tourch a halcyon 21w canister light to get focus, and then move the light cone out of the image before taking the image. If I forget to move the cone out of the image it will be overexposed in the area covered my the canister light, or underexposed everywhere else. Lately however I have been experimenting with out focus light. Instead enabling the camera to fire the flash to help get focus. Since I'm using optical connection to my two inon z240 they also light up, an the entire underwater scene lights up. A few times yesterday I was unable to get focus this way. I then used the primary light technique to get focus, but the images always returned way to dark. So if the strobes are not able to light up the scene enough to get focus, they will not be able to light up the scene enough for a good image either. I'm able on my camera to use this teqnique even if the flash is not to be fired when the image is taken, so it seems reliable enough. Though I have only tested it on a couple of dive in Mexico.

I have been taking some images in the cenotes of Mexico over the last weeks. Some of them can be found at this location: http://gallery.me.com/marius.froisland#gallery They are sorted under sub albums one fore each cenote. I'm using a Canon 7D with 2x Inon z240. I'm new to this out fit so I'm probably not using it to its fullest. But it should give a impression of how much light the z240 provides. The images are mostly taken in the cavern zone, or just inside the cave zone as my cave instructor didn't want me bringing the camera into the cave. But that is all going to change tomorrow when I reach 25 cave dives and are allowed to bring it all the way in.

Maybe you could look at what getty charges for their images: http://www.gettyimages.com/ and try to compare the relevant images with some of their. Can the dive stor just buy the images they need of getty, or are your images unique in some way hat is important to them? Beeing a greedy capitalist I would say charge as much as the store is willing to pay, or said a different way how much do you think the images are worth to them? Another thought is that if this is not going to be a livelihood then charge a fee beers worth and bask in the glory of having sold some images (which I have yet to do).

Using air to 20m you could do 38minute, if you swapped to 32% you could spend 60 minutes. After 3 hours on the surface looking through your images you could do a new dive lasting 5 minutes less. If you do not need to go to 20m but can stay on 10m you could be down 145 minutes on air as your first dive... which seems to be enough for most people. Ofthen though the limit will not be the accumulation of nitrogen which the values above is based on it will be based on how much gass you are carrying, and how warm and comfortable you are. (The fjord which i plan to dive in later to day is 1 degree in the surface...might not be relevant where you are.) Just mute the move you record With scuba and the proper skills you can be very agile. Take a look at side mount for instance :http://www.gosidemount.com/videos.asp You will also be in much more of a hurry moving up and down. So I guess it comes with it's benefits as well as its drawbacks. With scuba (and a patient buddy) you can spend 5 minutes getting in place, moving your model back and forth just to get it right. Scuba isn't risk free either. It is both sports/activities with a inherent risk.

I think it has a lot to do with your level of ambition what product you should select. I'v had a look at google sites, it looks nice to make web pages very easy. But I was unable to make the page look very nice, they got a lot of features but no the cool look. http://www.google.com/sites/overview.html iWeb on my Mac (came with it, and might be available for pc I do not know) makes pages very easy and they look much better than google sites.

GUE has a configuration that I think works very nice. http://gue.com/?q=en/Equipment/Config/index.html I usually carry a main torch in my left hand, or clipet to my right shoulder. In addition I have two backup torches attached to each side (they are very small and out of the way).

I got a Sandisk Compact Flash Extreme III 32 GB. I was deciding between a faster 16GB card and the 32GB card I eventually got. The price for the cards was the same. The faster card would according to the sales person allow me to take 12 minutes of HD movie before I had to take a pause to save it, while the slower card could only do 10 minutes. I figured that 10 or 12 minutes did not make any difference to me, as I like my movie clips to be less than a minute. On my 32GB card I can store more than 999 (largest the display shows) raw images.

Personally I like that the photos are all on one page, less clicking for me. If the list becomes extremely long it will make for a large loading overhead which is not so nice, so I would not make the page more than twice the length it is today. It is also important where the new images comes. When a image is added it should IMO be added to the top of the page so it is the first thing you see.

I'm very shortly going on a trip to Caribien with Royal Caribien Cruise Line, we have the following port of calls: San Juan, Puerto Rico Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas St. Croix U.S.V.I Basseterre, St. Kitts Roseau, Dominica Bridgetown, Barbados Does anyone have experience with diving resorts in any of these places? I'm looking for a place where I can come early in the morning and hire scuba gear and get a couple of dive and return to join up with the family approximately 4 hours later. Need a place where I can either make arrangement by phone or internett or just drop inn, as we are only staying in each location for 12h.

They sent something to me in Norway. Worked nice, though the suggested way of shipping was very expensive, but they found a cheaper way on my request.

Nice. What kind of lighting have you used when shooting them?

awesome, when can we see more?

What is the aproximate in-water weight of the house?

How negative will it be in water with the camera inside? I know this will depend on which port and lense, but do you have a rough idea with for instance a dome 6´´and wideangle lense? Need to know which buoyancy arms to order with it

I'm looking into buying a Canon 7D. I have read a lot of tests, reviews and such of the camera. What I haven't found is good tests, reviews and comparison of the various uw-housing choices. Do anyone know of tests or comparison between the uw-houses for 7D or could give me a rundown of the major drawbacks and benefits of the houses?