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steelhead

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About steelhead

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  1. Thanks Phil. I am not a skeptic about the value of water contact optics, as I think their value has now been well proven. I am mostly curious about the merits of the WWL-C on full frame with a couple of 24mm options for Sony cameras, which I did not previously know was a possibility. They both offer 130 degree field of view according to the port charts, but I was curious is anyone that has compared them had thoughts about other compromises. If one already had both a 28mm f/2 and a 24mm f/2.8 (so lens selection was not an issue), would there be any reason not to go with the smaller and less expensive wwl-c, or stick with the tried and true wwl-1/b on a full frame sony?
  2. This is a great summary Phil. I wasn't aware of the option to use the WWL-C on full frame with the 24mm lens. if one were interested only in the best wide angle performance on Sony full frame would the 24mm/WWL-C or 28-60/WWL-1B be a better performer? I would be very curious if anyone has done that comparison. Although the 24mm lens costs a bit more than the 28-60, the WWL-C is a bit cheaper than the WWL-1, and a little smaller.
  3. Edy, When you say that the 21.5m extension does not cause vignetting that is because you are only using it at 15mm (which is apparent from the lens and dome hood in the photos). Even without the lens hood on, I am pretty sure you would have vignetting with the 21.5mm extension as you move to shorter focal lengths. As for the correct dome placement, it would be great to see some comparison shots with the different extensions since, like you, many others probably also shoot this lens at 15mm exclusively.
  4. Owen, I agree with everything Tim said. Your best image quality upgrade is going to be positioning the dome in the right spot. I shoot the Tokina 10-17 with a D7000 in the Aquatica housing and I use the 18456 extension (I think its the 48456 now, but the 18456 extension will work for your housing if you can find one used) and I get good sharpness. Image "quality" will not be improved by going to the small dome, but it can lead to more versatility. If you regularly find you are having a hard time getting close enough or lighting the subject in front of the 8" dome, then the small one might be a good upgrade for you. Same goes with the 1.4 teleconverter. If you are shooting small stuff CFWA style and cannot get close enough with your setup then the small dome and teleconverter may be the best upgrade path for you. One place where the D7000 shows it weaknesses is in high ISO situations. The 8" dome gives you some flexibility in shooting a little wider open than the small dome will, while still retaining corner sharpness. The small dome may force you into the dreaded ISO 3200, where the D7000 files start to fall apart. I too think about upgrading, but The D7000 is a good camera and I am amazed how well my files hold up if I am careful with my exposure. SH
  5. I just sent you a PM, but I have a couple broken cords that might work for you.
  6. I use one with an aquatica housing pretty regularly, and it works very well. There is a cup that sticks to the inside of the housing to hold the trigger cable from the camera, and a disc that sticks to the outside. The outside trigger mechanism (with the cable to the hand held trigger) pressure fits over the disc. The setup works well and everything seems very well made. They even made mine with a custom cord length. My only complaint is that the cup on the inside of my housing did not stick well (the aquatica housing is kind of textured inside), so I eventually glued it on. Also, occasionally if I am jostling the setup the trigger can come off of the outside disc. To remedy this I often cable tie (zip tie?) the cord on to the housing handle. This could be something to be careful of on a pole-cam where you are dunking it or swinging it in the water quickly. But, I do like that I can quickly switch from remote trigger to handheld by just popping the trigger off. I should also note that the field generated by the trigger mist be quite strong because I had a hard time finding a convenient spot inside the housing to line up the cup with the outside disc. New housings don't have much flat surface on them. So they are offset a bit, but it still triggers every time.
  7. This is a really old thread now, but is this viewfinder still available?
  8. This makes sense to me for work with a flat port, but for lenses that will be used with a dome (e.g. wide angle lenses), shouldn't the calibration be done where the virtual image is created? ~3x dome radius?
  9. This lens is still available. Make me an offer if you are looking for a nice wide angle for your FF setup.
  10. I have some new TLC arms on the way that I want to attach to a couple of Nik. 105's. Does anyone have a couple of SB-105 connector knobs (TLC part 17754) that they don't need anymore (not the ball head kind)? I also need two dovetail mounts for the Aqautica handles (17550), although I would think there are fewer of those out of service. It would be best if they were in the US, as I am in Seattle, and it doesn't make too much sense to pay a fortune to ship them. Thanks
  11. I am in the process of upgrading from a D70 in an Aquatica housing to a D7000 in an Aquatica housing. I have also recently picked up the Tokina 10-17, which I would like to use with the new rig. I am currently running the 8" dome and the charts on the Aquatica page list the 16.5 mm (18456) extension as being the one to use. However it seems like some people do not run an extension ring at all with this combo. Is that true, or am I mis-interpreting some other posts? I already have a longer extension 28.5mm (18453) that I used with the D70 kit lens. Any chance I could use this, or is it so long that the shade will show at the wide end of the zoom? This may be a stupid question but I don't have the housing in hand yet or I would just try it out myself. Thanks for the help.
  12. I am jealous that you have a local underwater strobe repairer. I e-mailed Pacific Housing Repair in California, thinking that they would be the best bet for parts for older equipment but never heard back. I called my local shop and they basically laughed when I said "Nikonos," so no luck there. I think ebay is my best bet for parts until I break down and get new strobes. Nice to know I am not the only one shooting these things though.
  13. I have a sigma 15mm f/2.8 D EX (non-DG, Nikon mount) for sale. $400 + shipping (from Seattle, WA), and I will throw in a set of 3 magic filters for this lens. I also have the original box, manual, and lens case. It is in great condition, but just doesn't get used on my crop sensor D7000.
  14. Perfect! I looked on e-bay initially and didn't see anything. Now I will have a replacement and a spare. Thanks for the heads up.
  15. I have a couple 105's that work great for my purposes, but recently I lost one of the tiny little red plastic clips that holds the rear battery terminal in place. Does anyone know if, or where, I can get one of these? I can rig something temporarily to wedge it in, but it would be nice to have it with the original pieces if possible. One of the pitfalls of using older gear I guess.
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