TuriLed

Well Arnon, that's what you get for diving on Yom Kipur. You should have done what the rest of us usually do - sit at home and watch all the starwars movies on DVD (Lord of the rings is good as well)

Cool. Thanks for your answers. I'm planning to try it on friday

I got another question - when taking the diopter off the port... how careful should i be ? Ikelite's port mount doesn't look too strong...

Tehre is a line attached to it... but i don't like things floating around me when i take photos. I'm looking for a way to secure it so it wont move... Ummm, securing it to the strobe arm might be a good idea afterall. It means that when i'm not taking photos i need to keep the diopter on the lens, and take it off when i'm not useing it. I was thinking thinking about leaving it off most of the time, and just putting it on when i actually need it. Your way sounds safer :-)

Hi, Today i got a woody's diopter, and i was wondering if anyone have any idea how to secure it when it's not being used. Any ideas ? Oren

Ummmm, it's just not the same without an Ikelite housing on her laps... :-)

I'm going to get a Woody (hehehe....) Diopter in a few days. It's stuck in customs at the moment. I'm planning on trying it with a 4T , MF. I Should order a 3T as well someday...

I'm using the 105mm, mostly in MF (when shooting 1:1 or close). I sometimes shoot AF when i'm lazy or when taking a photo of a moving critter. But hey, i'm still young and i get along with a tiny viewfinder

Ummm, I wonder... Could be nice to have a magic filter for Over/Under shots, don't you think ? Half ND, half magic... :-)

Tony, can you please post a photo ?

Just a note - as far as i know it's not good to fully discharge the DS-125's battery. Keep it charged.

A few possible reasons : 1. Low battry 2. If you have a manual controller - the light on the DS-50 blinks when the dial is pointing between the digits. 3. If it's none of the above try another sync cord/controller (if you have an access to one). I think that the ready light blinks when it has a problem getting the right signal from the camera/controller. And, you can always send an email to Ikelite.

Hi again, I finally got my new Ikelite D70 housing today (it was a long wait...), along with the #5508.05 flat port for my 105mm lens. I managed to place the gear sleeve on the lens, and managed to switch from M to AF using the focus control on the housing. But, when I put the flat port in place, it seems like it's quizzing on the gear sleeve, making it impossible to use the sleeve. Just to be sure it's not a misplaced o-ring issue i placed the port on the housing with no o-ring on, and i'm still unable to use the sleeve. Can anyone advise ? I'm planning a short dive trip on the weekend (friday) and i want to get it working before the trip Thanks, Oren

You got your iTTL housing ??? i want mine too

Well, it was worth waiting for this model :-) Grrr..... can't wait to get mine.

Damn... I was hoping to get mine before that. i got a 5 days of diving planned for the end of this month. Murphy- the dive buddy that never let me down... <_<

Good idea. Thanks.

Cool. Last question - when working with two strobes in TTL , is it possible to set one of them 1/2-1 stops down, so i'll still get some shadows ?

I see. So what you are saying is that I won't be able to switch from TTL to manual underwater if there is a manual controller somewhere in the middle (thanks for the explanation about the pre-flash settings on the controller, forgot about this one). So far now i have two options: - Dive with everything set to manual (Housing on manual and controllers on no-pre-flash or housing set to TTL and both manual controllers set to pre-flash). - Dive with the housing set to TTL. DS-124 attached directly to the housing (using the TTL cable). DS-50 attached to the housing via manual controller (set to pre-flash). What if i keep the housing set to TTL, and use the manual settings on the DS-125 (4 power levels) ? Later on when i replace the DS-50 for a new strobe, i'll be able to connect both strobes to the housing using the TTL cord , no controller in the middle, and switch from TTL to manual. I'm not sure how i feel about this one... i really like having 10 power settings when working manual. How many power settings are there on the eTTL/iTTL conversion circuitry? Did i get it right ?

I'm not sure you are totaly right. If i don't use a sync cord, and just point the controller to the DS-125, it's might work. I used the DS-50 as a slave (triggered by the internal camera flash) when shooting on land, and i works just fine :-) Ummm, makes we wonder though. Lets say i get the housing with the iTTL support, and i want to use it with my corrent strobes in manual mode (both of them). You are saying that if i leave the conversion circuitry on TTL the stobes will "miss-fire", even if i place two manual controllers in the middle ? Will i be able just switch to manual mode using the conversion circuitry in order to get over this problem ?

The stobe wasn't in sync with the camera. It shoot, but too late (or too soon). And yes, it was the digital version. The TTL controller just doesn't work well with the C4000. I did try an older digital TTL controller (which belongs to a friend of mine) and it seemed to work better. Ikelite probably changed the circuitry. Anyway, i like working in full manual mode (camera and strobes), but as i said, sometimes i don't have the time for it, and sometimes i'm just lazy :-)

Cool looking gizmo, i wonder if it's good enough to to see what's in focus. It certainly won't fit in any standard housing... but maybe a housing manufacturer can change it's housing so it fits. Is anyone from Ikelite reading this ?

Opps, not "battary pack". I flooeded the battery compartment. A good rinse in fresh water and it was as good as new.

Sell the DS-50 and get another one ? too expansive right now. Besides, i don't think i'll get much for a strobe that had two floods in it's battery pack (the first was my mistake and i had no batteris inside, the second was a small leak, but one battery was leaking some acid). It still works fine though TTL slave controller ? ummm, i actually got one... but i don't trust it. Didn't work with my Oly-C4000. I think it's gonna be hard to tell (underwater) if it's doing it's job or not when using it for a fill-in flash. What i might just do is to work with one strobe on TTL until i'm familiar with the new cam (and leave the DS-50 dry). After a while i'll switch back to full manual mode with two strobes (until i replace my DS-50).

I'm finally putting an order for a shiny new Ikelite D70 housing, with iTTL support (i know, i'll have to wait for a few weeks... just hoping it'll get here before my vacation in the end of july). I got a problem though - according to ikelite's site, one of my two strobes is too old (slow) for iTTL - my DS-50 , so old that it can't be upgraded. The other strobe - DS-125 should work fine. Assuming i want one of the strobes to work with iTTL and to manually adjust the second one myself (mainly to fill the shadows), is it possible ? (by the way - i got two manual controllers). Before you give me a link to TTL-anonymous - i've been working with manual controllers for more than a year, and I believe that using manual controls brings the best results. But, sometimes i dive in a group and don't have the time to mess around with all the manual settings, and sometimes i just get lazy (or short on air) and just want to point and shoot . Beacuse i'm planning to keep this housing for at least two years, i prefer to buy the housing with the iTTL support anyway (i'll probably replace the DS-50 for another DS-125 later on). Please advise Oren