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Atom

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Atom last won the day on July 11 2015

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  1. The Dehaze effect is probably based on this paper or something similar... http://research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/people/jiansun/papers/dehaze_cvpr2009.pdf It's a simple observation at it's core, in your image for every pixel there's usually a dark one closeby (except for the sky), as the depth of the scene increases and things get more hazy that dark pixel tends towards the "haze color". So at every pixel you can iterate over neighbors, find the dark pixel, and estimate the depth/haze by seeing how dark it is. From that information you can remove some haze by solving for RealColor in an equation that looks like this, ImageColor = RealColor* (1-hazeFactor) + HazeColor * hazeFactor, and blending with your image. Well actually the paper applies other techniques to make the results better and evaluate the haze color from the image so it's much more complicated than that. So you're probably not redoing that using contrast and the other standard manipulations available in Lightroom.
  2. All of my water entries since I got my DSLR have been shore entries, since it's new I've been freaking out a lot because "hey that little wave could cause damage to my housing because it'll be crashing on it", I don't think it really can but I'm sure you all know the feeling. At least it has a vacuum system so I can look at the green led and chill out ; ) So any experienced/long time users of DSLR housing with funny/surprising/harrowing stories of what their housing have gone through? There must be some interesting ones.
  3. I got the Nauticam viewfinder so I can't comment about the Inon one, the Nauticam one block the LCD a bit if viewed "from above" but a slight tilt of the housing let me view it (it's not that big). Personally I found the 45 degree angle quite natural to use, although I just recently transitioned from compact to DSLR so maybe I hadn't got time to get used to having it point straight in front of me
  4. Thanks to all who answered for the feedback! After giving it more thought I went with the 45 deg. Had it in the water and wow!! I'm loving it, absolutely no regrets there!
  5. That's great feedback! Thanks to all who answered, anybody else wants to add anything?
  6. I'm thinking about adding a viewfinder to my housing (Nauticam D7100). So obviously the choice is between the Nauticam 45 degree and the straight one. I'd go for the 45 since it seems it would be a much better position for shooting, but reading some reviews everybody seems to say it's quite hard to get used to, am I an idiot for thinking I'll get used to it? I am also wondering why the straight one is more expensive, it seems the 45 is more complex and should be the one that costs more, does it have improved image quality over the 45? Would love to hear feedback from people who've switched to either of those viewfinders.
  7. I put mine on my wrist, most of the time when I'm shooting I don't have to do navigation without visual references so I don't need to continually reference it. I found Bonaire easy to navigate, shore is to the east (unless you're diving the east coast but for most people this is less frequent), and since its a slope it's harder to get lost. Not enough people bring stage kits to do long dive though, it's perect for it in the south.
  8. Super late but why not.... -Try to keep horizontal, otherwise your feets are squeezed and your upper body is in a bubble -Ideally you don't need much air in the wing/bcd at depth, you should have just enough weights to get you down with your suit inflated at a comfortable level, and the extra air for the start of the dive is in your wing/bcd. That is unless you're diving heavy steel doubles and stages which can get really negative when you start a dive. Nothing wrong with using only your suit if you're weighted properly and have a AL80 though, you're only managing a 4lbs delta. -Remember that by changing your orientation you can manage the bubble in your suit and get yourelf in a stable trimmed position -Practice makes perfect, dive your suit often, try to do slow accents (1ft per min) at the end, that'll really teach you how to control your suit I love drysuit diving, but I find especially suited for local diving, for anything above 60F where I'll be travelling I'm in a 7mm wetsuit, I know I can do 2hrs dives in a 7mm (done it often at home) and wetsuits don't fail easily and suddenly like drysuits.
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