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gotgills

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About gotgills

  • Rank
    Clownfish
  • Birthday 05/09/1985

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    http://www.scenictraverse.com
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  • Gender
    Female
  • Location
    Northern Virginia

Additional Info

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    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D700
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica AD7000
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea&Sea YS-110a
  1. Items Still Available Aquatica Tokina 10-17mm zoom gear - $100 This zoom gear mounts on the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye and allows you to zoom the lens while in the housing. Perfect condition. Aquatica port extension ring - $170 This is the standard Aquatica extension ring that is required to use with many domes, including the Tokina 10-17mm with the mini dome port. Perfect condition.
  2. Items Still Available Nikon 85mm F/3.5 DX VR Macro lens - $300 Few people know about this lens from Nikon. Get the advantages of a 60mm and a 105mm in a compromising 85mm lens. I've taken a bunch of great macro shots with this lens! It's in perfect condition, no scratches on the glass itself and only very minor signs of use on the external body. Includes all original packaging, lens caps and lens hood. Aquatica Macro Dome Port (#18428, for Nikon 85mm) - $270 This dome port can be used with either the 60mm or 85mm lens without requiring an extension ring. Does not allow for manual focus, but the Nikon lenses focus so fast that it's not a problem! Has minor signs of wear on the outside of the body but nothing on the glass that would interrupt your image quality. Includes the neoprene cover and comes in the original packaging. Aquatica Tokina 10-17mm zoom gear - $100 This zoom gear mounts on the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye and allows you to zoom the lens while in the housing. Perfect condition. Aquatica port extension ring for mini dome port - $170 This is the standard Aquatica extension ring that is required to use the Tokina 10-17mm with the mini dome port. Perfect condition.
  3. Original post updated to reflect items that have sold or that are pending payment. Tokina 10-17, Nikon 85mm, macro port and extension ring still available.
  4. Hello! I have decided to sell my Nikon D7000 and the underwater housing and accessories associated with this camera so that I can put my new D800 in a housing and eliminate one set of cameras..... I am also going to be using a different lens setup with that camera so I am selling some lenses and ports. Everything is in perfect working order and this is a complete, ready to dive package. I would prefer to sell everything together but will consider parting out if someone isn't interested in the whole setup. The underwater equipment has only been dove a handful of times, which is a major reason why I'm selling it (don't have the time to dive it). PS - this is a re-post from ScubaBoard (my user name is kmitch over there). The complete setup includes: Nikon D7000 Camera Body (USA Warranty, not grey market) Aquatica D7000 camera housing with accompanying accessories, hydrophone, and TTL/fiber optic synch connector Tokina 10-17mm fisheye lens Nikon 85mm Macro lens Aquatica Mini Dome Port (#18410, for the Tokina lens) Aquatica Macro Dome Port (#18428, for Nikon 85mm) Tokina 10-17mm zoom gear Aquatica port extension ring for mini dome port Vello BG-N4 battery grip (Freebie!) To purchase this whole setup new would cost well over $6,500. Buy the complete setup for $3,900 USD. Prices for Individual Items Nikon D7000 Camera Body (will include the Vello BG-N4 Battery Grip for free) - $725 Includes the camera, strap, battery, charger, manual, paperwork, body cap, and original box. Everything is in perfect working order. Only minor cosmetic blemishes from normal wear and tear on the camera, the most obvious being a small scuff on the on/off switch that has no impact on the camera's performance. I am including the Vello BG-N4 battery grip for free with purchase of the camera, however, you will need to purchase a second battery to use this grip. Aquatica D7000 camera housing - $1800 Includes the Aquatica D7000 camera housing (#20068-OPT) which was serviced by Aquatica earlier this year. Has not been dove since servicing. All components, including the moisture alarm, hydrophone, mounting plate, arms, manuals, extra o-ring, etc are included. Comes in the original box and I'm adding a free body cap to cover the port connector when there is no port attached. Tokina 10-17mm F/3.5-4.5 Fisheye lens - $350 No scratches or scuffs on this lens! In perfect condition, any blemishes are un-noticable and are on the external body only. Includes the original packaging, lens caps and manual. Impeccable condition! Nikon 85mm F/3.5 DX VR Macro lens - $300 Few people know about this lens from Nikon. Get the advantages of a 60mm and a 105mm in a compromising 85mm lens. I've taken a bunch of great macro shots with this lens! It's in perfect condition, no scratches on the glass itself and only very minor signs of use on the external body. Includes all original packaging, lens caps and lens hood. Aquatica Mini Dome Port (#18410, for the Tokina lens) - $380 The mini dome is great for travel and much easier to deal with underwater than the larger domes typically used with a fisheye lens. Includes the neoprene cover and comes in the original packaging with manual. Aquatica Macro Dome Port (#18428, for Nikon 85mm) - $270 This dome port can be used with either the 60mm or 85mm lens without requiring an extension ring. Does not allow for manual focus, but the Nikon lenses focus so fast that it's not a problem! Has minor signs of wear on the outside of the body but nothing on the glass that would interrupt your image quality. Includes the neoprene cover and comes in the original packaging. Aquatica Tokina 10-17mm zoom gear - $100 This zoom gear mounts on the Tokina 10-17mm fisheye and allows you to zoom the lens while in the housing. Perfect condition. Aquatica port extension ring for mini dome port - $170 This is the standard Aquatica extension ring that is required to use the Tokina 10-17mm with the mini dome port. Perfect condition. Photos: Want more photos? Visit my photobucket. I accept payment via Paypal ONLY. I am happy to entertain any offers! I prefer to sell to US buyers for shipping purposes. If you buy the complete package I will ship to you for free, all others will pay actual shipping cost (most of this can fit in a USPS "if it fits, it ships" box). Thanks and happy diving!
  5. Stewart - thanks for your great thoughts. So continuing on the same line -- if the extension ring wasn't the problem contributing to the lock out that occurred both times with the wide angle setup in place, then what causes this? It ONLY happened with wide angle and it happened both times I used that lens -- IE no successful wide angle dives deeper than 30 feet at all. If it was an error with how I had the housing setup, then the problem should also have occurred when it was in macro setup. In one instance I actually just changed the port and lens without removing the camera from the housing and had a successful macro dive previously. AKA - still looking for plausible situations (either user error with lack of extension ring or otherwise) that led to the lock-out and reset of the camera. What causes a Nikon D7000 to freak out so badly it wants you to set the language, date time etc all over?
  6. Kirk, Thanks for the comments. You're assumption that I didn't read the manual is incorrect - the extension isn't mentioned as required on the housing manual or the 4 inch dome sheet, just mentions it as helping improve optics. Obviously the bit about the on/off switch being on didn't make a lasting enough impression for me to remember that when setting up my camera in Bonaire so that's on me. Still, it's a little stupid that it'll damage my camera if not inserted properly. You don't have to agree (since I didn't follow the instructions) but I'm sure if your camera body was maimed by the housing you might also be a little pissed off - who would have thought that sticking it in off and testing the switch functions properly would be so problematic. Ho hum. I hear what everyone is saying about it being user error with the flood but I saw no evidence that something was aligned wrong, even after I opened the housing. Several years ago I had a strobe flood (of my own fault) when the o-ring didn't seat properly when I closed it and I'm familiar with how that looks and is identified from the experience. The o-ring was properly in place for that dive and when opening the housing after I surfaced from the leak it was still seated in the groove correctly. Between the first and second dive I only removed the back of the housing - didn't remove the camera, so if it was an issue with a lever or arm not being aligned properly then a flood should have occurred on the first dive too. I always wiped the o-ring and back plate off before resealing them but I lack a time machine to go back and prove that there's no chance of debris in the back. Based on what I saw sand entered as I've described previously and flooded it. We don't all have to agree on how it happened since it really doesn't change much. My comment from the original post, which you don't have to agree with, is that I've dove sites like this with Sea&Sea cameras and never had problem - those sealed differently and I think that design could be improved. Notice I've never blamed a failure on Aquatica or some design issue that caused a flood, I'm just recounting what I saw and what happened..... I did take everything for a test dive after purchasing it. Re-read the posts. How was I supposed to anticipate that what worked at 28 feet would suddenly stop working in 30 feet? As much as everyone has jumped over the flooding that's really the smallest of the issues since I recovered the camera. The most frustrating is that it hasn't been explained what causes the camera to lockup and reset to a language set screen and if that issue is related to the extension ring. Jean with Aquatica and I have been in communication and we will talk more tomorrow when he returns to the office. -Kristen
  7. Hi, Again I wish I'd taken photos but preservation of the camera was first and foremost. I have two dive buddies who saw the sand on both sides of the o-ring (externally and in the housing). The difference between sitting the camera on sand and what happened is the waves from the walk-in and surface swim helped to push the sand into the housing through the surge as I agree that it's physically impractical that sand will just creep in on it's own accord. To recap: I walk in and sand floating in the water gets caught in the gap between the two housing components. During long surface swim water surging over the housing from waves slowly pushes that sand into the gap and eventually through the o-ring seal. Had I not had a surface swim I'm not sure the sand would have gone through the o-ring. It was a very fine sand - not the large and corse material often seen on a sandy bottom - think fine beach sand. If this helps - this is a crop of the shot I took right as I noticed water running down the LCD screen (mr. Octopus). Notice the fine sand caught in the wrinkles of his skin. That's the culprit. Also, remember there was some sand in the o-rings and area around the strobe o-rings on both YS-110's. Neither strobe flooded, but the design of that cap is very different from how the o-ring on the housing seals. I have owned those strobes for years and they have hundreds of dives on them without flood.
  8. Paul, Thanks for the feedback and glad to know I'm not the only person with this most bizarre problem of camera lockup below 30 feet. Sadly when I took the camera for a test dive before the trip it was in a local lake and I didn't take it deeper than 30 feet at the time to identify the problem sooner. I did PM Jean earlier with a link to this thread and hopefully will have a chance to talk with them tomorrow. Thanks for the info on the extension ring - what's interesting is that you don't need the extension ring to take pictures, but it might improve the optical quality. What I mean is that on the previously mentioned lake dives I took about 100 shots (albeit shallower than 30 ft) and didn't have an extension ring and I thought it performed beautifully. So either the lack of the extension ring was the cause of the camera lock-up deeper than 30 feet or the extension ring is just to improve optical clarity and I should have been able to take photos without it. I'm not sure we've established which of these two is correct? I obviously didn't register the note about having the camera on when loading it into the housing, but what difference should that make? As long as I get the switch lined up properly in the off position it should work just as well as if I get it lined up in the on position? Again, I'm 99.9% positive the flood occurred at the main o-ring. Like I mentioned previously, I had sand on the inside of the housing along that o-ring. If sand was able to penetrate into the camera housing then water obviously was too. Re: camera plate being locked. Absolutely 100%. After the first dive when the camera went into lock-up I wanted to make sure I got a chance to really take the time to make sure everything was working properly and attached perfectly before getting in the water. I took several photos on the surface and upon entering the water. Because I was so paranoid that the camera lockup was my error after the first dive I wanted to make sure I was very diligent in the second dive. Unfortunately I got the same result - lock up at 30 feet following a loud thud sound. So once again, either the lack of extension ring causes the dome to not work deeper than 30 feet OR the extension ring just improves optical quality but shouldn't impact the ability to take photos deeper than 30 feet.
  9. Okuma, Thanks for the feedback. I agree the gap in the photo is correct - my point, which may not have been clear, was that it's a rather large gap between the two housing pieces and is larger than the gap in other camera manufacturers, at least as far as I can tell looking at photos of Subal, Sea&Sea, Nauticam, and Ikelite housings. I suspect the sand entered this space as I walked into the water and then the water splashing over the camera during the surface swim helped to wedge it into the o-ring. It's really the only thing that makes sense since there was sand on both the outside and inside of the o-ring. In the roughly 10 minutes of entering/surface swim/diving/egress that I was in the water I only accumulated ~2 inches of water in the housing. If the o-ring wasn't seated properly or the housing wasn't latched properly the entire thing would probably have filled with water in 10 minutes. I don't want to point fingers at the housing seller, but let's just say they should have known -- they are one of the biggest underwater photography specialty companies..... and if if the extension ring is just for optical clarity rather than function, what they told me could have been correct.
  10. Follow-up: I fished out the instructions for the mini dome. "Note: an extension ring is meant to be inserted between the housing and the dome port to provide optical correction needed for some lenses" That sound precisely along the lines of what you were saying Saga7 about the optical quality, not the functionality of the lens (and would make the statement I was told about not requiring an extension ring technically correct; it might not be optically superior but it will work). In light of this it sounds like the extension ring, or lack thereof, probably wasn't the contributor to the camera lock-up. Unfortunately the pressure pot at the dive shop I work for isn't big enough for me to put the camera in, otherwise I'd conduct a more scientific study of what happens at 30 feet that creates the loud thud and locks up the camera. One would think if it's pressure related that the problem would be alleviated by surfacing, but as seen in the video, surfacing did not solve the problem. Open to more ideas...... Kristen
  11. I would insert the camera turned off but before I put the backplate on I'd turn the switches to make sure the off/on/and info light buttons would turn on properly. I would turn the camera back to off and then close the housing. Like mentioned in my first post, I'd then seal everything and do a total system test. Once everything tests okay I would turn it off since I would sometimes be driving to dive sites and didn't want an accidental button press while driving to upset settings in the camera. Before I got in the water I'd turn the camera on and leave it on for the duration of the dive since it uses minimal power in standby. Either way, there shouldn't be a limit to the frequency with which I can operate the on/off switch before it damages the camera! ;-) Yep! The rubber cap around the viewfinder and the plastic LCD screen protector were both removed from the camera before installing it in the housing. In the youtube video I posted you can clearly see both have been removed prior to installation in the housing. I only have to move any of those camera button arms when I insert the wide angle with the focus ring. The macro setup (which is when it flooded) doesn't require me to move any of those arms to install the camera as I use the lens autofocus so I don't think the flood could be tied to that. Good idea though! Based on the fact that sand was on both sides of the main o-ring and I was watching water drip down on the LCD screen I'm 99.9% positive the source of the flood was the main o-ring. Interestingly enough, and a point I forgot to mention earlier, that was the second dive of the day so the o-ring was obviously seated properly for it to survive the first dive. After the first dive I did go back to the room to download photos by removing the back cover but the camera wasn't removed from the housing and there was no sand in the o-ring after the first dive. What little sand did wedge it's way in came during the second dive. Out of curiosity - anyone know why Aquatica would even design the mini dome port to require the extension ring? Unless I'm reading this wrong (possible since I was on the red eye home this morning) there are only 2 lenses that the mini dome works - one is the Tokina 10-17mm so why wouldn't you build it to be the right size??!! We're talking about needing mere millimeters of extra space to make it all fit properly, presumably for both lenses. This probably explains why I was told it wouldn't need it, who'd think a company would design a port that isn't the right size from the get-go? Am I reading this wrong?
  12. I recently returned from a week long trip to Bonaire where I took my new Aquatica D7000 housing for it’s inaugural dives. I had been very excited about this trip as it was the first chance for me to take an dSLR, rather than an advanced point and shoot, underwater. I wanted to provide some feedback on the Aquatica housing based on my experiences. For some quick background: while new to dSLRs, I am coming from advanced point and shoots and have 10 years of dive experience (along with being a PADI instructor). I have worked at major dive operations across the eastern United States and have received my photography mentorship from some highly published and well-known underwater and land-based photographers. My setup: Nikon D7000 in Aquatica housing, two Sea&Sea YS-110a strobes connected via fiber optics, Tokina 10-17mm fisheye, Nikon 85mm Macro, Aquatica mini dome port, Aquatica macro port, and Sola LED focus light. The Good - Ergonomics: I purchased the housing due to the small size which I thought would work well with my small (woman) hands and for the ergonomics of button placement. Underwater I found the buttons were all easily within reach without having to take my hands off the controls. The shutter button gave enough pull to have a comfortable half-way focus and full pull for shutter fire. The grips with the carved finger holds were very comfortable underwater and gave me great control wielding the housing. I would make one recommendation on the buttons to Aquatica; it can be a little tricky to align the on/off switch just right with the camera switch. A small paint line or stopper to help align that switch would make loading the camera much easier! - Hydrophone: I never attached the hydrophone to the camera, but in the housing the audio during videos was very good and I’m not sure the hydrophone would be much better – at most it might eliminate some of the focus noise heard when the camera focus motor turned. - TTL/Optical Connectors: I didn’t use the TTL, but the optical connectors were very reliable. I wasn’t sure what to do with the extra TTL cable when I had the house closed – if I put it where the velco suggested then I couldn’t pop the camera flash up. I ended up sliding the TTL connector cord just above the flash hot shoe in the gap created when the flash is popped up – this worked pretty well and also prevented me from accidentally closing the flash. - Construction: Externally the housing seems to be constructed very well – the rough surface of the housings coating makes it very tactile and easy to hand hold if you take your hands off the grips. The ports also seemed to be built very solidly and I was very happy with the macro port. There are more comments on construction (including construction of the mini dome port) in the ‘bad and ugly’ section so keep reading. - Port Lock: This was one of my favorite features – despite being new to dSLRs I felt comfortable that if the port locked clicked, I had the port mounted properly. The only nerves came at the first few dives – even when properly locked the port can still “wobble” a little to make you think it’s not secured properly. I’d comment that Aquatica might want to mention that it’s okay if the port does that in the instructions so that people like me aren’t exceedingly paranoid about that! - Moisture alarm: It worked. The camera flooded (more on that later) and it did chirp, but only after I’d already identified the problem. It’s hard to gripe that it didn’t work, but I think it might have chirped sooner if the wet contacts were a little closer to the bottom of the housing seal rather than a few centimeters up – I basically had to wait for that much water to flood the housing before it beeped! The Bad (and Ugly) - Overview: I have several major gripes with the housing. First, I’m very diligent and would take several test shots before ever leaving the hotel room. In my tests I’d also test all of the major buttons like the two scroll wheels that adjust aperture/shutter, live view, shutter, image review, and info. On THREE separate occasions, despite having successful tests and pre-shots, upon getting in the water the camera was hosed as a result of the Aquatica housing and my dives concluded with no images taken – and the housing flooded on an additional fourth dive. Read more…. - Major housing failure #1 (User error?): In one instance, while shooting macro, none of the buttons worked, including the shutter. My best guess at the time was that something was ever so slightly off and wasn’t noticed in my tests but was enough to fail the system when I got underwater. I suspect this was just a minor alignment issue on my part? This was the only dive that I had while shooting macro that I had an issue with button operability after I submerged (I had about 15 successful dives). - Major housing failures #2 & #3 (Wide Angle Doesn’t Work!!!): I don’t know what happened during the second and third instance of housing ‘failure.’ In both instances I was shooting wide angle with the Tokina 10-17mm lens and small mini dome port. The first time this happened was at a dive site called Karpata; I’d used the camera (in housing) to take some top side photos during a surface interval (I shot macro on the first dive and changed to wide angle for the second) and upon submerging it I got the Nikon screens to set language, time, date, etc on the camera. I once again assumed I’d failed to align everything properly. On the second of these occasions I was diving at our house reef and spent awhile setting up the camera to ensure everything worked properly. When we got in the water I was able to take a few photos of my dive buddies and a photo of myself (to ensure strobes were firing properly) before the camera returned to the language set screen. In both instances when the camera ‘locked out’ in the language set screen I was unable to resolve the problem underwater. When I reached 30 ft of depth myself and the divers around me would hear a very loud ‘thud.’ I don’t know what the source of the sound is and I never saw anything move on the housing, but from that point forward the camera would lock up. Although I could look in sidewise at the LCD window and see the buttons were making contact with the camera, it wouldn’t allow me to proceed with the camera language set – thereby rendering the dive useless. When I would surface the camera would continue to be in ‘lockout’ until physically removed from the housing. Following the second instance I took the camera back to the room and filmed a short video before opening the housing. In the video you can see the language set screen and I’m pushing the buttons without success – once I open the housing everything starts to work (See Video: ). Note: Video was taken before the below note which probably explains problems. To this day I have no explanation for error on my part that could cause it to work on the surface and at depths shallower than 30 feet - and then once deeper than 30 feet (10 meters) later it’s asking me to set the language. My best guess is something in the housing put pressure on buttons and ‘jammed’ the whole setup. Either way, it’s a complete failure and I’m extremely dissatisfied that despite spending almost $1,000USD to take wide angle photos, I wasn’t able to capture one shot deeper than 30 feet. This alone, without any of the other issues I experienced, is enough for me to wish I could get a refund on the housing. I am extra frustrated as I was told that mini dome was built almost specifically for the Tokina lens! Unacceptable. - Mini Dome Port & Tokina Lens Incompatible: Unfortunately, my gripes continue! I brought a macro setup (Nikon 85mm) and wide angle with the small Aquatica dome port (Tokina 10-17mm). The wide angle setup never worked as advertised; despite multiple attempts to get everything to line up in the compact space of the housing, there are issues with how the lens interacts with the front of that dome. Specifically, when zoomed, the front of the little lens hood hits the front of the dome, which pushes the camera backwards and unlatches the tray that holds the camera. At the same time, if you spin the zoom gear the contact with the lens on the front of the dome causes the gear to slide off and rattle around the dome. As best as I can tell the Tokina lens hood doesn’t come off and I don’t have any extra equipment that could be causing this chain reaction. I got one of the first mini-domes that came out of the factory and I wonder if it’s slightly off spec – I can’t imagine it’s designed for the lens to actually come in contact with that little dome glass! This being said, on both occasions when the camera ‘locked up’ deeper than 30ft I had the lens zoomed in to the point where it was not in contact with the glass as I was troubleshooting that as a possibility for my earlier problems. NOTE: I just looked at the lens chart for Aquatica and am extra annoyed. Apparently one needs an extension to use the dome port with the mini dome. Of course I purchased one of the very first ones made and I was explicitly told I didn’t need an extension ring, which is why I should buy this versus another dome for that lens. I’m curious when it was updated that you needed the ring in addition to the port because it wasn’t sold to me that way. I guess that’s what I get for buying the ‘new great thing designed specifically for the 10-17mm lens’ before all the kinks are worked out. This probably explains my problems, but is clearly very annoying since I was explicitly told that was a selling feature that I would NOT need that ring. - Housing Construction & Camera Damage: My other major complaints stem from the construction of the housing – specifically how it contacts my camera and the main o-ring. Starting with the contact with the camera: After a week of diving the rubber pads on the end of some of the buttons, most notably the on/off switch, wore through so metal was in contact with the switch on my camera. This has left some fairly hefty damage to that button and I’m really peeved that the housing which should protect the camera from the water is also damaging the camera at the same time! It’d be one thing if the $2,500USD housing was malfunctioning, but it’s another when you start to damage my $1,400USD camera too! I have also had an issue where one of the little fingers that engages with the MF/AF switch fell off and started to rattle around the housing; thankfully that’s not a button I ever used so I left it off. You can see the rubber caps on the on/off switch have given way to metal. Next photo depicts the damage that did in one dive to my camera (I rotated the caps periodically to help protect it as much as possible during the trip). - O-Ring & Housing Flood: On the o-ring…. I think the design of the main seal in the back isn’t tight enough for my liking and I’d rather the housing overlapped the o-ring rather than just pressed against it. We did a shore dive towards the end of the vacation at a spot called Windsock – it’s an easy walk in entry with a little bit of sand at the very edge of the water where the waves have kicked it up. Despite walking through this fairly quickly and making sure the camera wasn’t subjected to any unnecessary roughness from the oncoming waves, enough sand was able to get into the o-ring to cause a major flood. We had a short surface swim and during that time, unknown to me, the camera was slowly filling with water from the sand in the o-ring. When we started our dive we were immediately greeted with an octopus and when I pulled the camera up to capture him I noticed water spilling down the LCD screen. I immediately aborted the dive, flipped the housing so the port was down and swam for shore. Had it not been for that octopus, I probably wouldn’t have been able to quickly identify the problem and recover my camera gear. Unfortunately the water sensor didn’t start to beep until I was nearing the surface. I’ve dove sites like this numerous times with Sea&Sea housings and have never had a flood – I think the O-ring design that lets sand freely flow into the two components is a major flaw, particularly when we’re not talking about a rough surf or large volumes of sand! Other o-rings, like the port ring, had no sand in them, which is probably because they are overlapping metal pieces with the o-ring between them. The strobe o-rings had almost no significant sand in them. Sorry I didn’t take photos of the amount of sand (not much) that was required to break the integrity of the o-ring – I was a little preoccupied with saving the camera! This gap between the housing when sealed was large enough to let a little sand in and jam between the o-ring. Anyone who has been to Bonaire knows those dive sites aren't overly sandy either! The Bottom Line: All in all, I brought my camera back with some minor saltwater damage and minor cosmetic damage as a result of the housing, but I brought it back. (Damage to the housing from the flood can’t be assessed as I have no means to test the TTL electronics and I’m not sure if the saltwater will corrode any of the metal internal components). I did capture some great images during the macro dives, but having 3 dives with wide angle lost due to the housing is completely unacceptable. I am overall very dissatisfied with how much I had to fight the camera during this trip and how much I paid for what I thought would be a superior product. I ran across some divers using D7000’s in Sea&Sea housings and their gripes were much less significant than mine (mostly involving pitting on the housing). When talking to those divers they seemed very shocked by my experiences which suggests I either have a major user error that I need help with or there are problems with this Aquatica housing. If given the opportunity to re-buy my setup, I would probably look closer at some other housings before buying Aquatica again based on this experience. The reasons for selecting this housing over others were not outweighed by the debacle with the wide angle setup (especially since it now looks like one needs an extension ring, which is exactly opposite of what I was told when I purchased this port… and waited several extra weeks to get one of the first ones) and I’m very unhappy that the housing caused permanent damage to my camera’s on/off switch. I do plan to contact Aquatica about my problems – at the very least I need to send the camera to Backscatter for service since it flooded to ensure no sand got into o-rings I can’t access and to test if the electrical components (TTL specifically) that met saltwater are still functioning. Comments and questions welcome – I have tried to be as objective and fair as possible and welcome any explanations for the multitude of issues I’ve encountered! I have attached some photos and videos and some of the ‘highlight reel’ are featured below. - Kristen, www.thegotgills.com PS: The Sola focus light is a must have – I love that thing! If nothing else it helps visualize the colors that you’ll get when your strobes fire and assists with composition. I used the red LED during one night dive but not sure how effective it was. I also used two large and one small arm float on each ULCS arm and found that to be a really nice setup – just barely negative and easy to wield underwater. PS #2: Don’t be a doofus like me. I use the Nikon R1 Macro flash system with my camera above water and use the main flash on the camera as the commander for those strobe units. When you take it diving you have to reset the camera to TTL rather than commander or you’ll spend half a dive wondering why the heck the strobe isn’t synching at precisely the right time (the infrared communications flashes that are barely visible to the human eye are still enough to trigger the main strobes, creating a ½ second delay). Doh!
  13. Whites fusion suit. Fits like a custom suit (better actually than my custom suit) and you can't argue the price. I love it and it dives like a 3mm wetsuit. When I teach students they find the skills easier in that suit over the other DUI, etc brands that allow more airspace in the suit. I have had mine since they came out.... Very durable and I love it.
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