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Everything posted by ChrigelKarrer

  1. My first rig was a Ikelite Rig for a Nikon D90 and i had one DS125. I bought it and could not use it for a couple of months, when i tried it first time strobe was dead. After some emails with Ikelite it seemd that strobe lamp was dead and i had to ship it back on my expenses from Costa Rica to US and then repaired back to Roatan. The whole shipping added about 300+ on the bill.... After the strobe was working fine, just very bulky and heavy plus you need a charger to charge the battery pack. I switched to INON Z-240 and never looked back, - perfect quality, some of my strobes have hundred of dives - fiber optic cables, no corrosion, no expensive cables, you can buy bulk fiber optic cable and run long distance between camera and strobe, - use normal AAA batteries, rechargeable batteries work just fine - perfect automatic TTL working perfectly with every camera i had (d90/D7000/D800/Fuju E900/Canon G11/G12/GX1/Panasonic LX-100) - you are able to remote trigger the strobes on a certain distance, you just need that the optic sensor is looking towards the camera with the main strobe, this avoids that you have to run electric/optical cables all around the cave In your case for cave lighting you may better use very strong video light as it makes positioning much more comfortable as you can place them much quicker and this will avoid to stir up sediments while doing try and error to find the right position. Basically the same why you use fixed lights in studios. Very wide and even spread video lights are the 8000 lumen Keldane, expensive beasts but worth every penny. My buddy does UW video and has two of them and when we dive in the caverns they illuminate very well! You can see some pictures shot with twin Z-240 on arms and without any planning, putting more effort on them lighting the pictures would be much better, but i made them while diving with clients and that limits the time i can invest in finding the right strobe position. https://www.facebook.com/pg/SardiniaDivers/photos/?tab=album&album_id=224280364287095 https://www.facebook.com/pg/SardiniaDivers/photos/?tab=album&album_id=202679009780564 Chris
  2. I use the Sigma 15mm EX DG on my D800 in a Hugyfot housing and using the Hugyfot minidome. I prefer this setup for traveling and price reasons, as a 20+ dome is simply too bulky and expensive for my needs. The 15mm EX DG will do reasonable sharp corners at f/9, above the corners are sharp. Main problem with rectilinear lenses is that you need to keep the camera perfectly horizontal to avoid bent seabed or surface. The big backdraw of WA zoom lenses is that they need either a very big dome to ba able to zoom without soft corners, or a smaller dome, but you can use the zoom lens only on a certain with without soft corners. The Nikkor 16-35 f/4 is (even not a pro lens) a extreme sharp lens but as Tim wrote, very picky with the dome, as bigger the better. In your case i would try to contact SUBAL and explain your needs, they will help you with their experience regarding the right lens/dome combination for their housings. Chris
  3. I just was rading a article about the newly and after 6 years of development released GIMP 2.1.0 There is a lot of changes, including much faster engine, etc. As it is free i think it's a good solution for doing stuff Lightroom is not enough but Photoshop is too expensive. Chris
  4. I also flooded one Z-240 as i was in hurry and the o-ring got pinched and dislodged while srewing on the cap. To avoid that, lubrificate the yellow o-ring when you feel that he is sticky while screwing on the cap, use just minimum amount of grease and check seating every time you use the strobe! I noticed the error under water when bubbles came out of the battery compartment, so when i came up, everything was black and corroded and i could not recover the strobe. However , as far i remeber, there was no water inside the strobe, just the battery compartment was totally corroded. If yours is working, then keep using it! Chris
  5. I understood that OP is looking for a rectilinear DX lens, but his Sigma will be probably enough wide to fulfill his needs. How much will the Sigma 15MM EX DG change when used on a DX camera? To be honest, never tried that. Chris
  6. Depends on how/with whom you fly and what are the carry-on rules European usual 8 kilos --> camera has to go as checked luggage European unusual 20+ Kilo --> get a photo backpack or trolley and bring it in the plane If you need to send the camera as checked luggage then i suggest a Pelicase for the camera rig, maybe together with delicate Rebreather parts If you have more than 15 kilo carry on then housing, strobes, hard disks, chargers, laptop in the photo backpack/trolley, alrms, cables, spare parts in one of the luggages I can store my Poseidon SE7EN in a 1610 Pelicase, wing and backplate, fins, wetsuit, mask go in the same big suitcase (will be more than 23 kilos/50 lbs) Second suitcase has cloth and other stuff (maybe drysuit) and if carry-on is not possible then the second pelicase for the camera rig 1 Messenger bag (if allowed as 2nd carry-on) for the laptop, noise cancelling headphones, newspaper The trick is to check first the luggage rules and start to make some math, probably cheaper to pay additional checked suitcase than overweight carry-on Probably not cheaper, but not much more expensive to fly business with higher luggage/carry-on rules and much more comfortable I would not recommend a Pelicase carry-on as the heavy trolley will make limited carry-on weight even worse, a photo backpack is lighter. Guerilla warefare: Buy trousers with zipped cargo pockets and a photographers/fishermans vest with a lot of pockets. Then store all heavy lenses, the camera, tickets, passport, etc in it to lower carry-on weight You can also put a cord on your housing and hang it around your neck as a camera is allowed as carry on. Instead of a expensive photo backpack/trolley you can get also a normal trolley and a roll of bubble wrap to wrap everything well. However, get prepared to pull everything out of the carry-on during the security check, agents there hate trolleys full with electronic stuff ... US Ailines usually have no weight limit for carry-on, so a photo trolley will work fine, but if you have a inner-european flight to Ireland then your carry-on will be most likely limited to 8 kilo. Check that in advance! Chris
  7. I never used my Sigma 15mm EX DG on a DX camera, but love it on my D800 and the possibility o use a minidome with barely no soft corners at f/9+ The above mentioned Tokina could be a good solution too, but it's to check how this lens behaves with your dome. Chris
  8. I started with Lightroom 1 and have now the current versin of CC. I tried some other software but always returned to Lightroom, probably because i am lazy and like LR. Regarding Photoshop, i have now LightRoom, Photoshop and Illustrator as a bundle plus Photoshop and Premiere Elements, so i use Photoshop as heavy editing solution. You can safe some money downloading the opensurce, freeware GIMP, a very nice and old Photoshop clone. Chris
  9. I always (because i have to...) have parts of my photography rig as checked luggage. - HugyFot D800 housing, arms, and macro port go in a Pelicase, all wrapped in bubble wrap and foam, spare parts go inside housing and macro port - HP ZBook17, Hugyfor minidome, D800, 15mm, 24-70mm, 70-130mm - 105mm macro, 2 Z240, 2 external hard disks, chargers, cables, 1 SpeedLite 800 and other smaller stuff went in a LowePro Backpack (18 kilo) If there where issues with carry-on weight i put all my lenses in the side pockets of my cargo pants and the other heavy stuff in a fisherman/photographers vest. That make me look as a extremist with some exlosive stuff, but until now it worked like this As the new carry on laws reduced carry on weight to 8kilos/17lbs i don't take the D800 anymore on flights, fly with less picky airlines or business class. If i would have/like to then i would fit everything in a big PeliCase and check it inside a old, worn suitcase to hide it's content That will be unfortunately the destiny of underwater photographers ... :-( The main problem with checked-luggage is that max insured value is 3000$ and i did not found a company who is willing to insure checked-in luggage with photo gear. For our british readers, Dive Master Insurance in England has a insurance who is 10% of the insured value, but only for british residents! Chris
  10. I have the spare parts separated in small ziploc bags in a tupperware container with a hermetic closure so that it don't open accidentally. The big dome port has another tupperware type hard plastic contaniner over it and it's held in place with 2 bungie straps. This works great as it protect the port from scratches and bumps as the plastic avoids that something touches the glass. Camera, housing, minidome, strobes and necessar cables go in a carry-on roller from Temba, heavy laptop goes in a messenger bag, tray and arms and any less used stuff goes inside a pelicase in the dive suitcase. If suitcase is lost i stuill can shoot WA! The new carry-on rules are a big PITA, but to be honest, on most of the overhead bins is written MAX 20 KILOS and my old carry on Lowepro Backpack was 17, and there where several other carry-on stuff in the same overhead bin. If i have the D800 rig with me i use photographers vest and put lenses and other heavy stuff in the pockets untill i passed the weighting station, then it goes back in the backpack/trolley Chris
  11. I have a Surfacepro and are very happy with it. But to be honest, for the price of a fast Surfacepro you may get a faster laptop/MacBook having a better keyboard. However, the SurfacePro is a awesome machine, expensive but high quality and flawless working. One 2GB disk and another identic one as backup will store all of your photos. SSD Disks are expensive but sturdy, better for travelling purposes. Chris
  12. I used 2 different large backpacks and both worked fine. As hauling around 40 lbs of photo gear, laptop, chargers, disks, d800 + prime lenses is rather annoying to my back so i got a trolley. I can fit all my photo gear, disks and chargers plus my 17'' ZBook in it, don't have to carry it on my back. Housing and arms goes in a Pelicase inside the dive suitcase. Lately as the carry on laws get harder and harder i don't carry anymore my D800 hugyfot rig around the world, my Lumix LX-100 is enough quality for my simple needs. Eben if that bothers me a lot .... Chris
  13. You need: 1° a tray to screw on the bottom of your housing (careful when screwing it on, if the screw is too long you may crack the plastik) 2° a system to attach the arm on the tray (ball adapter or flex arm adapter) 3° a arm, either a rigid aluminium arm or a flex arm (flex arms are more simple for small housings) 4° clamps to attach the arm on both sides to the trax and to the strobe ball adapter Chris
  14. I had the goPro mounted on the ball mount tread in the center of the housing (Hugyfot has no cold shoe). This worked fine with the Hugyfot Minidome and i prefer this position as i know where the GoPro is pointing to. Using a long flat port or a big (wet lens) dome it may be visible to the GoPro, in this case either a arm or a solution to mount on the port will be necessary. The other solution will be a GoPro ball mount, a coldshoe ball mount and one of the long clamps, using the long clamp you can move the GoPro further foreward than without or with a normal short clamp. I don't buy anymore normal "short" clamps as the longer ones are much more flexible and if using thick floats twin arms can be folded together. Chris
  15. I used several times toslink cables as emergency repair and they worked just fine, but i will order some of this end glow cable as spare. As a endcap is used linerless rubber spicing tape to create a end plug, looks shitty but dies the trick. A small roll of this tape (and gaffer tape) is always a good idea to carry to remote locations. Chris
  16. I used on my Fuji E900 first the tape and sharpie version to nt ruin the lens pinting directly on it. After some time the painters tape came loose and got pulled inside the lens when lens retracted. From them i use to paint the front of the lens with a black sharpie, looks shitty but does the trick. Chris
  17. On my Nauticam LX-100 houisng i use 3 pumps more when the green light comes on. That worked untill now perfectly. My Hugyfot D800 housing need some more electric pump time, had it twice that housing showed a pressure drop and alarm came on, but only when diving in cold water. Chris
  18. I do basically the same as you, usually shooting photos but if there is something interesting i shoot video with my LX-100 There is definitively no substitute for strobes shooting photos, their power and color is simply the best. For macro you may use strong video lights, but often you blind the critters and they disappear just a fraction of a second before you shoot. There are different Keldanes, expensive stuff but very good engeneered lights and wide soft light spread, particularly for video but usable for near photography too. I use one cheap Ano v70ws video light, 5000 lumen and rechargable without opening anything on the torch and it works fine. I often have the video light with arm ball attached in my drysuit pocket and just the strobes on the housing, if i need the video light i hold it in my hand or switch one strobe with the videolight. As you have a rather bigger housing you may install the video lamp with a not too long arm to the hotshoe on the top of the housing. Keep one thing in mind, for more than 1 ft away you need power, real power, at least 6000 lumen and 2 lamps are better than one. Chris
  19. What i do if ei either have a new camera or tracking down a problem is to use my pool at it offers shallow depths, long bottom times, no deco and clear water. You may buy a bag of small plastic dinosaurus, insects, figures and use them as models, they are pacient... Some of them float, so you may stick/glue them on a tile to avoid that they move around. Chris
  20. Pajjipen, i hope and guess he did as the tread is from 2014. However, i would suggest to try the vinager solution, if it's nt working then have the glass changed (or change it by your self) Chris
  21. Their website http://www.hartenberger.de/english/e_hartenberger.html states this: Synchronisation-Cable The supplied standard synchronisation cable with the NIKONOS-V plug can be removed from the strobe allowing the slave mode without a cable dangling from the housing. This also means that a defective cable (expendable component) can be user replaced without sending the strobe to an authorised repair workshop. A special feature first developed by us is the double seal NIKONOS Plug. The innovative positioning of the second O Ring provides 100% more safety and security in sealing. The plug’s thread is also kept dry whereas the original plug’s thread is surrounded by water. This prevents the vacuum which is generated when removing the plug, thus sucking water into the socket. Corrosion of the threads is also avoided. However, Hartenberger is a excellent company with a very strong customer service, write them a email and they will be glad to answer your questions. Chris
  22. Latest developments in reducing carry-on luggage made me to almost abandon my Hugyfot D800 rig for size and weight size. Is use the D800 only back home in Italy as the weight and size of the whole rig incluing flat and mini dome is basically a 50lbs luggage. As i am not a pro and don't sell my pictures or d strong crops on them i went with the Panasonic Lumix LX-100 as this camera offers what need. I have 2 housings, a cheap Meikon housing for my daily work as instructor and guide and a Nauticam housing with twin Z-240 strobes and +10 SubSee diopter. The Panasonic G4 was a option, but as the camera itself is not really so much smaller as my Hugyfot D800 housing and i had to invest a substantial sum in camera, housing and ports i took the decision towards the LX100. I have the Maikon housing clipped on my bcd with a Cetacea strap and the housing tucked under my armpit if not in use. A small and handy solution for unexpected encounters. If i wanna go more "professional" i use the Nauticam housing with a 5000 lumen videolight and the +10 diopter on a flip holder and if it's something really important i mount the two Z-240 on the UCLS arms to get perfect photo lighting. The same/similar size and quality is obtainable with the Canon G series or the Sony RX100 series (or some newer cameras i am not aware of) Chris
  23. Well, There is some light from the strobe, the cuttlefish photo shows that, so it seems that the strobe is triggered the right way. Consider also that the S-2000 is a very small and not very strong strobe and will not illuminate for a longer distance, that may be the case of the picture of the turtle. 1/100 - Iso 120 - f/8 was probably on the low side and the pictures is slightly underexposed. Try to shoot agan in automatic mode, either ISO Auto or aperture auto and lock speed at 160/sec to avoid microunsharpness. This should show if the sTTL is working right or not. Chris Set the camera strobe output to lowest and make sure you have no EV correction set.
  24. First i never use a rinse tank or similar (or any other storing place to have my camera floating/sitting with other cameras. My cameras stay with me wrapped in a towel and further protected in a soft side cooler, so no exchange is possible. Also i have home made handle cord and very special floats, that also show thats it's my housing. Instead of sticking on a sticker you can to the same thing, just personalitze your rig with a special cord, a particular leash to clip on your bcd, paint the strobe arms in a special color, get some special and rare floats, whatever you can immagine. However, the Brother Label Maker is truly a bomb and the printed label stripes will hold a long time, i use them on my boats and they last years exposed on the sun. Chris
  25. Me too consider this blind spots as water spots and i guess they influence picture quality! i have them on my Nauticam houing, but not on my front glass as i wash and dry it after every use. Be careful with glass cleaners, they ruined the o-ring holding the glass in position and i needed to change the o-ring. While mounting the o-ring the glass jumped out and scattered on the floor, so no glass too... price for glass and o-ring was about 100$ and some bad words when installing the o-ring as it's somehow tricky (you may order a few spare o-rings) I would try with vinegar to clean the glass, if still cloudy just get a new one and clean and dry it after every dive. Chris
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