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Everything posted by rollin

  1. Indeed, I never use the angles, only the speeds. My photography background I guess. But in this post 120 and 180 are used in two different ways. That's why it's possible it is confusing to the TS.
  2. Did he mean 1/180 s or 180°? Anyway, I find a longer shutterspeed in bad lighting conditions more important than the 180° rule. Especialy under water with slow movements, I prefer to go 360° when shooting in 60p. 1/60s is short enough in those conditions. In 30 p, I will use 180 or 270, depending on light conditions. To Eransalah, read about this stuff so you understand what you are doing, or you will depend on other peoples 'rules' to setup your camera.
  3. Google on 'Waveform explained'. 0 IRE is complete black, 15 IRE will show some detail in the blacks and less noise, especially if you lift things up in post processing. But GH5 footage is prone to noise, keep the ISO as low and the shutter speed as long as possible if you want to avoid it.
  4. Yes, but in contrary to other brands, they have a nice offer on this. If you buy the Nauticam housing for the Ninja V and the dedicated cable, you can return your older NA-GH5 and for 500$, they will send you the new NA-GH5v. I guess they will give your NA-GH5 a new front.
  5. I believe it is not possible. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50150 Maybe you could use a small optical trigger?
  6. I will! Just found out that the water temperature is 2°C/37°F! Nice! Beware, the FL70 has no built in batteries, so it uses the camera battery as well if that is your concern. I see only now you are living in Belgium as well. You can always try my FL70 if you like. I'm from Herne.
  7. topic was about GH5, no? GH4 has a built in flash, so no need for a small flash there. My friend has a GH4 though, I can ask him to test the FL70 if you want. But it will be in August only, I have a long trip ahead, diving in Iceland an Greenland!
  8. I use it for more than a year now, in manual and TTL. It does the job perfectly.
  9. Deepshots has a gear as well, quiet a bit cheaper than the Nauticam's https://deepshots.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/deepshots-panasonic-8-18-zoom-gear-new I will have this next week and will test it with a 7" dome. A have a Seacam superdome as well, but I have to figure out the right extension for this lens.
  10. No, I don't use wet widangle lenses yet. I suppose the WWL-1 is the best in quality, but very heavy and expensive.
  11. I once had more or less the same question http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59958 Now, I dive with an Olympus 12-50 macrozoom, which I use mostly when I dive only once at a certain spot. It doesn't go very wide, but I can do fish as well as small critters. When I have time to do more dives, I choose between fisheye, 8-18 mm or a dedicated macro.
  12. I use the 45° viewfinder for macro. Less bulky and pricey. I like the fact that I can concentrate on the subject by looking through a viewfinder.
  13. When dreifish is served, I'm next in line for an adaptor like this.
  14. Very interesting video. Look at the noise in the dark part of the robe at ISO 6400 en 12800 when GH5 en GH5s are compared. Quiet impressive, also compared to the other cameras IBIS: you can't have it all. Bigger sensor also means no extra room to move the sensor around. Then the heat issues, the fact that the loose sensor sometimes broke in professional use (on car suction cups for example) and that the pro's use tripods or gimbals if they really want stable footage. I can understand the trade off. EDIT: furthermore, one can easily stabilise in post production. Which is essentially the same as moving the sensor around. I will wait till the price drops or get me a second hand in a year or so to complement my equipment. It is really nice that the button lay out is the same.
  15. Isn't that the same book as the topic starter mentioned?
  16. There is a cheap solution for that Extra large glow in the dark buttons
  17. I just checked for you. When I took the housing, I was surprised to see the right handle seemed to be a bit forward. But I checked with a ruler against the back side of the front part of the housing (open), and the two balls are exactly aligned.
  18. The battery will last for many months that way. Using mine since May, I did like 60 dives with it, sometimes closing the housing in the evening before. It is still going strong. I always take a spare battery, but none needed so far.
  19. Since May I'm using the 12-50 with dedicated Nauticam port and gear a lot on a GH-5. I also have the 8mm in a small dome, and a macro with macroport. But I do a lot of diving in new spots when I travel, I find myself reaching for the 12-50mm almost every time. I like to dive for 90-120 minutes, so lots of time to do some scenery and macro in one dive. The quality of my 12-50 is very good for the price. The flexibility of the set is amazing, one turn on the knob and you have a really decent macro lens. I do macro a lot and have a wet macro lens I can screw on with a 77-67 adaptor if needed. Of course, the macro lens is better in macro, but I find the difference not big enough to worry about. At least, it depends on the purpose of your images. I do a lot of (4K) video, no pixelpeeping there. Most people never use their pictures outside Facebook or Instagram. If you regularly print in magazines, go for the best quality you can buy. Otherwise, don't worry to much. The image is more important than the pixels it is made of. I'm thinking now of buying a WWL1 for the 12-50 mm instead of a 7-14 mm with dome. I can't find to many reviews on that combo though. Like you say, it is a heavy lens, but the WWL1 gets very good reviews when compared to a zoomlens in a dome.
  20. This is indeed the best solution, buth 3x the price. Good if you do a lot of boat dives. I'm a shore diver, climbing down on steep rocks. I have had a big scratch on my Seacam Superdome once. Very costly. One can polish acrylic domes. But I agree, they scratch by just looking at them!
  21. If you don't have a focus knob, the back button is a good option indeed. I choose the aperture I need for the image, sometimes f2.8 is the best, sometimes it is f16.
  22. It works, but it is not always very reliable. I find it usefull when there is some light and not to much debris in the water. Choose not to many focus points. When doing video, use AF to focus, put in MF when filming so it doesn't hunt. It will not hunt without reason though. Low contrast or too much stuff in the water is a problem. AF is better than most critical reviewers are trying to tell you, but indeed worse than the high end DSLRs or dedicated video cameras. These are some short video's I made during my last trip to Norway with a GH5 in a Nauticam housing. Most of it is shot in continuous AF.
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