rollin

Thank you very much Davide. I'm sorry I missed your topic. I try to avoid all forums and other online discussions as much as I can, till I need some information. Better for my mental health. ;-) I agree, that way I miss out on things from time to time. When I see a chance to test this with the mark 2, I'll let you know.

This issue is new to me. Can you explain in short what it is about?

Yes, and this is a step up for me, as well as the autofocus. This is slightly better. I still have to try it in the water. I guess there won't be much of a difference in image quality, than 4K 60p 10 bit in camera instead of on my atomos. The FL70 not working on the other hand is a real bummer. I guess it is not only software, as this flash needs power. The only flashes mentioned in the manual do not. So maybe it is a hardware issue.

As my GH5 broke, I had to buy a GH5 M2. Beware, the DMW-FL70 does not work with this camera. It baffles me why Panasonic decided this would be a good idea, but it just doesn't I had to by the Nauticam trigger.

Indeed, I never use the angles, only the speeds. My photography background I guess. But in this post 120 and 180 are used in two different ways. That's why it's possible it is confusing to the TS.

Did he mean 1/180 s or 180°? Anyway, I find a longer shutterspeed in bad lighting conditions more important than the 180° rule. Especialy under water with slow movements, I prefer to go 360° when shooting in 60p. 1/60s is short enough in those conditions. In 30 p, I will use 180 or 270, depending on light conditions. To Eransalah, read about this stuff so you understand what you are doing, or you will depend on other peoples 'rules' to setup your camera.

Google on 'Waveform explained'. 0 IRE is complete black, 15 IRE will show some detail in the blacks and less noise, especially if you lift things up in post processing. But GH5 footage is prone to noise, keep the ISO as low and the shutter speed as long as possible if you want to avoid it.

Why?

I use deepshots on my three lenses and they work fine.

Yes, but in contrary to other brands, they have a nice offer on this. If you buy the Nauticam housing for the Ninja V and the dedicated cable, you can return your older NA-GH5 and for 500$, they will send you the new NA-GH5v. I guess they will give your NA-GH5 a new front.

I believe it is not possible. http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50150 Maybe you could use a small optical trigger?

I will! Just found out that the water temperature is 2°C/37°F! Nice! Beware, the FL70 has no built in batteries, so it uses the camera battery as well if that is your concern. I see only now you are living in Belgium as well. You can always try my FL70 if you like. I'm from Herne.

topic was about GH5, no? GH4 has a built in flash, so no need for a small flash there. My friend has a GH4 though, I can ask him to test the FL70 if you want. But it will be in August only, I have a long trip ahead, diving in Iceland an Greenland!

GH5

I use it for more than a year now, in manual and TTL. It does the job perfectly.

Deepshots has a gear as well, quiet a bit cheaper than the Nauticam's https://deepshots.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/deepshots-panasonic-8-18-zoom-gear-new I will have this next week and will test it with a 7" dome. A have a Seacam superdome as well, but I have to figure out the right extension for this lens.

No, I don't use wet widangle lenses yet. I suppose the WWL-1 is the best in quality, but very heavy and expensive.

I once had more or less the same question http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59958 Now, I dive with an Olympus 12-50 macrozoom, which I use mostly when I dive only once at a certain spot. It doesn't go very wide, but I can do fish as well as small critters. When I have time to do more dives, I choose between fisheye, 8-18 mm or a dedicated macro.

I use the 45° viewfinder for macro. Less bulky and pricey. I like the fact that I can concentrate on the subject by looking through a viewfinder.

When dreifish is served, I'm next in line for an adaptor like this.

Very interesting video. Look at the noise in the dark part of the robe at ISO 6400 en 12800 when GH5 en GH5s are compared. Quiet impressive, also compared to the other cameras IBIS: you can't have it all. Bigger sensor also means no extra room to move the sensor around. Then the heat issues, the fact that the loose sensor sometimes broke in professional use (on car suction cups for example) and that the pro's use tripods or gimbals if they really want stable footage. I can understand the trade off. EDIT: furthermore, one can easily stabilise in post production. Which is essentially the same as moving the sensor around. I will wait till the price drops or get me a second hand in a year or so to complement my equipment. It is really nice that the button lay out is the same.

Isn't that the same book as the topic starter mentioned?

There is a cheap solution for that Extra large glow in the dark buttons

I just checked for you. When I took the housing, I was surprised to see the right handle seemed to be a bit forward. But I checked with a ruler against the back side of the front part of the housing (open), and the two balls are exactly aligned.

The battery will last for many months that way. Using mine since May, I did like 60 dives with it, sometimes closing the housing in the evening before. It is still going strong. I always take a spare battery, but none needed so far.