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  1. OK. I may have found the answer on another thread where a writer states: "180 degrees on a Nikon and 167 degrees on a Canon at 10mm" (for a fisheye). Could be that the different crop factor of the Canon sensor narrows the view enough that the shade is not a problem. Any other canon shooters have experience with this set up?
  2. I am shooting the 10-17 in the 5503 port on a canon 40D. I have tested this extensively and I am NOT seeing any cut-off with the standard dome shade. I even attached some clips to the edges of the shade so I could see where any vignetting was starting. Looks like there is still a few mm to spare before any shade would appear on the sides (of course much more margin at the top/bottom). I tested a variety of focal distances and f stops at 10, 17 and a few intermediate focal lenghts. Any ideas why the standard dome port shade is not showing any vignetting in this configuration? Thanks
  3. I realize I am a bit late to this thread but I wanted to point out a concept that I rarely see mentioned in this forum, what you might call the "technology cycle cost multiplier." In the olden days of film cameras, we often kept the same camera bodies and housings for many years (I had a canon F1 with speedfinder in an Ike housing for roughly 15 years). These days, we all fall in love with the latest improvements in digital SLRs, if not pixel counts, then better autofocus, HD video, whatever. SO, this leads to a short product life cycle. So, when you invest in that beautiful Subal, Seacam or even less $$ aluminum housing, think of how often you'll want to replace it down the road. In the last few years I have gone from a Canon 10D to 20D to 40D and now I'm eyeing the 7D. That's a lot of hounsings and when you multiply the price difference between Ikelite and the next most expensive housing, that's a lot of cash. I know a number of Subal and Seacam owners of somewhat outdated camera bodies who groan out loud every time a new canon or nikon SLR hits the news. So, I'll stick with Ikelite. But, I should mention an important negative of Ikelite housings. The viewfinders are really poor, IMHO. I purchased a nice Dyron 45 angle enlarged finder that fixes this problem fine for me (and I'll just move it along to that 7D housing when I decide to buy it). Mike
  4. Peter, My experience with the easily attachable 45 degree finder on the Ike 40D housing is that the LCD display is not significantly blocked. You just need to tilt the housing a bit forward to see the entire display. You can also swivel the viewfinder sideways to improve the view. Mike
  5. For Ikelite housings, there is a nice 45 degree enlarged viewfinder sold by a French company which attaches easily to the ring around the standard viewfinder on the housing. It is really identical to the Inon finder (and apparently made in collaboration with Inon), except for the clamp-on feature. I can be removed & reattached underwater if you like. I have had this for two years (used with a Canon 40D in an Ike housing) and have been very happy with it. A huge improvement over the standard Ike viewfinder and I really like the 45 deg angle. It sells for 590 Euro and I had no problems ordering by phone with a credit card from the US. See: http://www.plongimage.com/product_info.php...roducts_id=1081 Mike
  6. For a cropped sensor camera, my vote is the canon 60. Since I purchased mine the 100 is gathering some dust. With a film SLR the 100 was my first choice for macro. Because the 100 it acts like a 160 on my 20D or 40D, I find myself having to get too far away from too many subjects. Also, the 60 is much faster and more sure on autofocus. So, the 60 is much more versatile. Still there is a place for the 100 in your collection, great for really small stuff and shy subjects like shrimp gobies.
  7. Just to add my 2 cents in favor of a 45 VF for WA: I am using a version of the Inon 45 made for an Ikelite housing with a Canon 40D. For me the 45 is a huge improvement for WA because the angle allows me to shoot with a bit of an upwards angle without bending like a pretzel. Very happy with this for WA.
  8. I have been using a 45 Inon finder on an Ikelite housing for a few months. I am a big fan. For me the huge advantage of the 45 is for wide angle and fish portrait shots where you want to be shooting a little or a lot upwards rather than horizontally. After years of twisting my back while tilting the camera up, the 45 angle is a big improvement and seems very comfortable and natural. Of course it is also great for macro work near the bottom. The two disadvantages of a 45 are finding a fast moving fish in the viewfinder and shooting straight down. Even with practice such shots can be challenging.
  9. Yep. Lots of Euros but pretty similar to the price for the standard Inon finder alone. It does stick out further from the back of the housing than one that is machined into the housing but it worked great for me. Mike
  10. Well, looks like I missed an earlier thread on how to remove the extensions. I will now go buy a strap wrench. BUT, I still think that a newly designed port system should work more smoothly than this.
  11. Yes, a great idea and long awaited, BUT, My 8" Ike dome always sticks after I put it together. Even with a little grease on the threads it is on there like welded steel after a few dives. Still have not been able to separate the dome from the extension since my last trip. Maybe I just need to lift heavier weights in the gym so I can take it apart. But having to fight with this on a trip would drive me crazy! Mike
  12. Just noticed this post. I have been using a 45 degree finder on an Ike housing. It is essentially identical to the Inon finder but is sold by a company in France called PlongImage (they say they developed it with Inon). It clamps onto the back of the Ike eyepiece very nicely and it is designed to do so (ie, optics have been optimized for this, NOT for mounting through the housing or in any way replacing the built-in Ike finder). I just spent 3 weeks diving with this rig on an IKE 40D housing in PNG and was VERY happy with it. The view is great and it's easy to take on and off. It lists for 590 Euro. For me it was worth every penny. I could send some photos but I am traveling and the internet here is too slow. Check this site: http://www.plongimage.com/product_info.php...roducts_id=1081 Mike
  13. Here is my selection of lenses used on a Canon 40D in an Ikelite housing (originally used on 20D in Ike housing). 10-22 Canon: can’t beat the close focus on this lens 18-50 Sigma: can use with or without a +4 diopter as this is a close focusing lens – this is my preferred “scout lens†as it can handle a wide variety of subjects. (I have been using the 3.5-5.6 “cheap†lens and like it so much I just ordered the Sigma 18-50 2.8 macro) 60 Canon macro: Fast and sure focusing, of course this is equivalent to the 100 macro on film cameras, so it feels very natural. 100 Canon macro: Not so fast and sure to autofocus but great for real small stuff. Also, I have noticed that the low light focus with this lens is noticeably better with the 40D vs the 20D body. Must be due to the more sensitive autofocus sensors on the 40D. I also use a Fisheye focus light if ambient light is not bright. I have used live view underwater without autofocus and I think it can work well in several ways: - Prefocus on a stationary macro subject in standard mode, then hit live view and zoom magnification on LCD and move the camera in/out until it looks sharp. - Use manual focus – all the current Canon lenses have manual focus override that works very smoothly, no switches to throw (assuming you put a focus sleeve on the lens!). - For wide angle with wide lens, could pre-focus at “sweet spot†distance, really stop down to maximize depth of field and then not worry about focus. Having said that about live view – I doubt I will every use it for more than a small fraction of my photos. I have an SLR because I prefer to compose through the view finder… Mike
  14. Received my Ikelite 40D housing about a month ago. Love the camera and the housing. But, I was not wild about the viewfinder. So, I investigated alternatives, including having Backscatter mount the Inon 45 degree viewfinder. Backscatter admitted it was major surgery (very different than installations on Nexus, Sea & Sea, etc). So, I found a link on a wetpixel forum to a French company, Plongimage, selling a very similar product with one critical difference. The Plongimage viewfinder is designed to clamp onto the back of the housing (on the viewfinder ring) rather than being permanently mounted by machining the back of the housing (as is done by Backscatter for the Inon finder on the Ike housing). It is designed so that water flows in and out of the narrow space between the viewfinder and the back of housing. This company says they developed their design in collaboration with Inon and the unit says Inon Optics on the side. They say they moved the focus point back somewhat to allow for the greater distance between viewfinder and camera eyepieces when compared to the standard Inon which is mounted into the housing backplate. I ordered one of these viewfinders from France last week and was able to pool test it last weekend. I am very happy with the results. With my usual low-volume mask I can see all of the large field of view without moving my eye, with only very slight blackout in the corners. The viewfinder data display is easily seen with a very slight eye movement. The view was identical to what I saw on friend’s Nexus with the regular Inon 45 viewfinder. It swivels the same way. I’m off to PNG next week and so it will get a thorough testing there. The added bonus is that if it doesn’t work out or if I don’t want it on a particular dive, it is easily removed (I would remove it at the end of each day anyway to rinse it thoroughly). In theory you can even take it on and off DURING a dive, just seems like it would be a lot to juggle. Downsides? This company does not have a US distributor. I shudder to think about trying to get this serviced. Price is in Euros and it is a bit more than the Inon finder in US$ (probably due to the terrible exchange rate). It looks like another company, in Spain, may sell a similar version (same price). Mike
  15. Check out the thread on "canon 100mm AF or MF" (or something like that). The great thing about this lens is that with the full time manual focus (FTMF) you can have the best of both worlds, manual and auto focus at the same time. Because the focus ring does NOT turn when the lens autofocuses, you can have a manual focus gear attached in autofocus mode. Thus you can autofocus as best you can then override with manual focus to touch up. Best of all is using custom function 4 to put the autofocus control on the "*" button. Then you can hit the shutter button without the camera trying to autofocus (Sorry does not work on the rebel cameras but does work on all EOS film and digital bodies). Ikelite makes a nice manual focus port and the control lever for the * button is easily accesible by your right thumb on the 10D housing. You can also change this custom function while camera is in the housing. I think this is the most versatile set-up available for macro shooting. I agree with what has been said in this thread about autofocus and light levels and contrast. I also find that it is pretty easy to manual focus on a stationary subject or use the "pre-focus" and move technique. I was used to shooting this lens UW as a true 100 mm on a film body and it has taken a bit of adjustment to the 1.6 crop factor on my 10D but for the really small stuff, it's actually an advantage. Mike in Miami
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