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troporobo last won the day on May 21 2019

troporobo had the most liked content!

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About troporobo

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    Great Hammerhead

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M5
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240

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  1. I don't know why you would want to sync at 1/8000. The flash duration is much shorter than that so you don't need such a high shutter speed. And for what it is worth, I've been using the same fiber optic cables for over 10 years, about 1000 dives, without a breakage. Compared to the Seacams, a pair of Z330s would save enough money to afford new cables every year for life!
  2. Hi Kevin - Apologies, I missed your message last month. Anyway, not, the front of your port has 67mm threads. This is still available and I can bring it to the US in 3 weeks for free shipping
  3. What are often called "sea snakes"are in fact kraits, so you're on the right track. Hard to tell which species without seeing the head, I suppose.
  4. If you are using the 60mm macro lens, there is no difference in imaging between the dedicated port and the 12-50 port. They are both flat and within a couple of mm of each other in length. I still sometimes try to get the front of the port or diopter as close to the subject as possible for maximum magnification. But honestly, I usually get better images by standing off a bit, and cropping to taste later.
  5. I had both the +5 and the +10 diopters but on a m4/3 system with a 60mm lens so my experience will not be directly transferable to your DX system so take it for what is worth. The extra magnification of the +10 made a very big difference for the smallest subjects, however, the shorter working distance increased the challenges of getting close enough and lighting the subject. On my system, the front of the diopter needed to be within about 50mm of the subject, which could be really tough with a pair of strobes in a tight space. I got rid of the +10 and now use only the +5. I can crop into the frame if needed. Finally, the flip adapter is indeed a great thing to have, screwing those diopters on and off while under is a pain in the neck!
  6. Yes, I should have mentioned that I use longer arms, even for macro, so I can get 4 Stix jumbo floats on my rig. Even with those, it's about 0.5 kg negative, which honestly is fine even on long dives. I would not want it much more negative, so I totally get the point about offsetting heavy video lights.
  7. Stix (or similar) floats are a more flexible and much less expensive alternative to rigid arms. Four jumbo floats provide about 750 grams of buoyancy. The adjustable float belt for ports can provide up to about 1 kg of buoyancy. I like the ability to adjust total buoyancy to each port. Keldan makes a cool float / clamp device with a standard 1" ball joint but it is hella expensive
  8. Very nice! Your footage has all of the "greatest hits" a diver would hope to see there. Well done
  9. I have been happily using TTL for Inon strobes, firing them with the little flash units that come with Olympus cameras, in Nauticam housings. Until now that is. The flash that came with my E-M1 mark II failed in less than a year and less than 50 dives (I don’t use it on land). I got a new one and took it diving today for the first time today. It died after 17 shots in 20 minutes. Back on land I confirmed that it is not just resting but is dead for sure. I’m p!$$ed off and not buying another one! I need a quick solution for my week of diving over the holidays. A quick search using google turns up the Nauticam trigger but it’s $250 and manual only, and the UW Technics TTL trigger but it’s nearly $400. The Anglerfish seems for remote use. What others are worth considering? I’m sure there must be a wealth of info here but it’s not easy to search using a phone. If anyone would be so kind to tell me the right search terms or provide links, I would be grateful.
  10. You might find my comparisons of the Subsee +5 and +10 diopters useful. The third set uses the Oly 12-50 lens at 50mm: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/56141-comparison-olympus-m43-macro-options/ For what it is worth, a long time ago I tried one of the basic Inon close-up lenses with an Oly 14-42 lens and found it close to useless
  11. Great photos! The shots of your daughter looking like part of the pod will make a great memory for her
  12. What Tim says, exactly I would not carry IATA refs but I would carry whatever the airline says on its own website. People at the counter might say IATA doesn’t matter (it does) but it’s harder to argue with their own rules.
  13. I don’t believe this is correct, at least not universally so. I regularly hand carry a couple dozen lithium batteries (AA and camera) around Asia and across to Canada and the US, with the equipment in checked baggage. Never a problem. I’m sure the airline web site will have the rules for flights, if you can find them.
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