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troporobo

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troporobo last won the day on May 21

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About troporobo

  • Rank
    Great Hammerhead

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  • Gender
    Male

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Philippines
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M5
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240

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  1. I have been happily using TTL for Inon strobes, firing them with the little flash units that come with Olympus cameras, in Nauticam housings. Until now that is. The flash that came with my E-M1 mark II failed in less than a year and less than 50 dives (I don’t use it on land). I got a new one and took it diving today for the first time today. It died after 17 shots in 20 minutes. Back on land I confirmed that it is not just resting but is dead for sure. I’m p!$$ed off and not buying another one! I need a quick solution for my week of diving over the holidays. A quick search using google turns up the Nauticam trigger but it’s $250 and manual only, and the UW Technics TTL trigger but it’s nearly $400. The Anglerfish seems for remote use. What others are worth considering? I’m sure there must be a wealth of info here but it’s not easy to search using a phone. If anyone would be so kind to tell me the right search terms or provide links, I would be grateful.
  2. You might find my comparisons of the Subsee +5 and +10 diopters useful. The third set uses the Oly 12-50 lens at 50mm: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/56141-comparison-olympus-m43-macro-options/ For what it is worth, a long time ago I tried one of the basic Inon close-up lenses with an Oly 14-42 lens and found it close to useless
  3. Great photos! The shots of your daughter looking like part of the pod will make a great memory for her
  4. What Tim says, exactly I would not carry IATA refs but I would carry whatever the airline says on its own website. People at the counter might say IATA doesn’t matter (it does) but it’s harder to argue with their own rules.
  5. I don’t believe this is correct, at least not universally so. I regularly hand carry a couple dozen lithium batteries (AA and camera) around Asia and across to Canada and the US, with the equipment in checked baggage. Never a problem. I’m sure the airline web site will have the rules for flights, if you can find them.
  6. Sometimes the sharks come really close, sometimes not. So I suggest a zoom. I took the same 12-50 lens there. The sharks were shy, but at the long end the lens really struggled to focus in the low light conditions. I got some good shots in the short to middle of that range. For that reason I would take the 9-18. But there’s no harm in taking both You know that strobes are not allowed, right?
  7. Allow me to suggest that you don’t always want “flat and even” lighting, for macro unless you want to produce straightforward ID images. Light and shadow need to be balanced. Backscatter needs to be managed. Backgrounds often need to be minimized. These objectives are not usually compatible with “flat and even” light. I had been pursuing the same goal. Most images were OK, some better than that, but few were outstanding. My biggest revelation came on a weekend when I (inexplicably) left my strobe arms at home, and had to jury rig one strobe to the cold shoe on top of the housing, literally strapped to the focus light mount with duct tape with no ability to swivel downward. I figured what the heck, it was worth a try. Somehow, I stumbled on a lighting setup that used the very edge of the light and produced better images than I had been making. Two examples below. Now I actively try to use just the edge of light when possible, aiming the strobes slightly outward or upward. Remember that strobes produce a cone of light at about 90-100 degrees. You also want the front of the strobe just behind the front of the port. I like them at 10 and 2 o’clock because it seems more natural to my eye to have the light coming from above the subject. I also frequently turn one strobe off, or turn one down to several stops if the shadows are too harsh. There are other ways to set up that might seem counterintuitive. Martin Edge’s book The Underwater Photographer and Ales Mustard’s book Underwater Photography Master Class both have lots of good material on strobe positioning. There are many good tutorials on this and other topics available on line: Backscatter tutorials UW Photo Guide tutorials Dive Photo Guide tutorials Good luck, and have fun!
  8. These are all wonderful, but I find the cardinalfish and pipefish images spectacular. Again, well done!
  9. I tried several options including the stick-on lenses and none were satisfactory. For years now I have a "bifocal" mask with no correction for distance, and love it. Have a look here: https://www.seavisionusa.com/ I don't believe it is necessary to have 1/2 to 1/3 coverage for the close up correction. Think about bifocal glasses on land. They have much smaller crescents for reading. Also note that you need the "bifocal" part only for gauges and tiny critters, but not for looking through a viewfinder, that works according to your distance vision and the viewfinder's diopter correction. This topic has been covered a lot here, a search will reveal more opinions and options
  10. Novus 3 is supposed to scratch your port. To remove a scratch, you have to remove material around it. Then get progressively finer from the (intentional) scratching of #3, then to #2, until it is polished with #1. The entire surface of the port will look uniformly hazy after the first step with #3. From your photo, that step looks barely underway, and there are heavy scratches that will take considerable time and effort. Maybe it was an error, but you originally wrote your sequence as 1-2-3 when it should be 3-2-1. It does work, but it takes a lot of elbow grease. Hope this helps
  11. Excellent images. Tell us about your lighting setup, it produced fantastic results.
  12. The full list of m43 lenses is here. It's pretty much limited to Olympus and Panasonic. There are also some from Sigma and some specialty lenses like Samyang for fisheye that are not listed. Note that m43 is not the same as DX https://www.four-thirds.org/en/microft/lens_chart.html
  13. I will start by saying that my equipment is not the limiting factor in getting better images, its the grey matter behind the viewfinder that holds them back! I see great images all the time shot on all formats. I'm a big fan of the m4/3 system in general and Olympus gear in particular - I've had three of them. I currently use an E-M1 mk II in a Nauticam housing. I shoot stills exclusively and macro with the 60mm lens probably 80% of the time and also use a Subsee +5 diopter which allows 2:1 magnification. The E-M1 has very good autofocus and decent continuous focus with tracking that I am starting to appreciate in some situations. The 60mm macro lens is super sharp. The m4/3 system with its 2x crop factor has obvious advantages for macro photography (and for wildlife, which I also do). The size and weight of the body and lenses are of course more travel friendly , but to be honest not a game changer compared to full frame once you pack the housing, strobes, batteries etc. For a benchmark, everything I need fits in a Pelican 1600. I have not used a full frame kit but I dive with people who do, and I believe that the IQ of both ecosystems is comparable. I will say that I have seen images from full frame systems that I don't think I could have made with my setup. This holds especially for wide angle. But I feel no compelling reason to change.
  14. Another vote for the Olympus 60. Great IQ, and with a +5 diopter you can capture really tiny subjects like anemone fish eggs. It works just fine in the port designed for the 12-50 zoom.
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