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troporobo

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troporobo last won the day on May 21 2019

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About troporobo

  • Rank
    Great Hammerhead

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  • Gender
    Male

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Philippines
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D E-M5
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240

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  1. If you are using the 60mm macro lens, there is no difference in imaging between the dedicated port and the 12-50 port. They are both flat and within a couple of mm of each other in length. I still sometimes try to get the front of the port or diopter as close to the subject as possible for maximum magnification. But honestly, I usually get better images by standing off a bit, and cropping to taste later.
  2. I had both the +5 and the +10 diopters but on a m4/3 system with a 60mm lens so my experience will not be directly transferable to your DX system so take it for what is worth. The extra magnification of the +10 made a very big difference for the smallest subjects, however, the shorter working distance increased the challenges of getting close enough and lighting the subject. On my system, the front of the diopter needed to be within about 50mm of the subject, which could be really tough with a pair of strobes in a tight space. I got rid of the +10 and now use only the +5. I can crop into the frame if needed. Finally, the flip adapter is indeed a great thing to have, screwing those diopters on and off while under is a pain in the neck!
  3. Yes, I should have mentioned that I use longer arms, even for macro, so I can get 4 Stix jumbo floats on my rig. Even with those, it's about 0.5 kg negative, which honestly is fine even on long dives. I would not want it much more negative, so I totally get the point about offsetting heavy video lights.
  4. Stix (or similar) floats are a more flexible and much less expensive alternative to rigid arms. Four jumbo floats provide about 750 grams of buoyancy. The adjustable float belt for ports can provide up to about 1 kg of buoyancy. I like the ability to adjust total buoyancy to each port. Keldan makes a cool float / clamp device with a standard 1" ball joint but it is hella expensive
  5. Very nice! Your footage has all of the "greatest hits" a diver would hope to see there. Well done
  6. I have been happily using TTL for Inon strobes, firing them with the little flash units that come with Olympus cameras, in Nauticam housings. Until now that is. The flash that came with my E-M1 mark II failed in less than a year and less than 50 dives (I don’t use it on land). I got a new one and took it diving today for the first time today. It died after 17 shots in 20 minutes. Back on land I confirmed that it is not just resting but is dead for sure. I’m p!$$ed off and not buying another one! I need a quick solution for my week of diving over the holidays. A quick search using google turns up the Nauticam trigger but it’s $250 and manual only, and the UW Technics TTL trigger but it’s nearly $400. The Anglerfish seems for remote use. What others are worth considering? I’m sure there must be a wealth of info here but it’s not easy to search using a phone. If anyone would be so kind to tell me the right search terms or provide links, I would be grateful.
  7. You might find my comparisons of the Subsee +5 and +10 diopters useful. The third set uses the Oly 12-50 lens at 50mm: https://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?/topic/56141-comparison-olympus-m43-macro-options/ For what it is worth, a long time ago I tried one of the basic Inon close-up lenses with an Oly 14-42 lens and found it close to useless
  8. Great photos! The shots of your daughter looking like part of the pod will make a great memory for her
  9. What Tim says, exactly I would not carry IATA refs but I would carry whatever the airline says on its own website. People at the counter might say IATA doesn’t matter (it does) but it’s harder to argue with their own rules.
  10. I don’t believe this is correct, at least not universally so. I regularly hand carry a couple dozen lithium batteries (AA and camera) around Asia and across to Canada and the US, with the equipment in checked baggage. Never a problem. I’m sure the airline web site will have the rules for flights, if you can find them.
  11. Sometimes the sharks come really close, sometimes not. So I suggest a zoom. I took the same 12-50 lens there. The sharks were shy, but at the long end the lens really struggled to focus in the low light conditions. I got some good shots in the short to middle of that range. For that reason I would take the 9-18. But there’s no harm in taking both You know that strobes are not allowed, right?
  12. Allow me to suggest that you don’t always want “flat and even” lighting, for macro unless you want to produce straightforward ID images. Light and shadow need to be balanced. Backscatter needs to be managed. Backgrounds often need to be minimized. These objectives are not usually compatible with “flat and even” light. I had been pursuing the same goal. Most images were OK, some better than that, but few were outstanding. My biggest revelation came on a weekend when I (inexplicably) left my strobe arms at home, and had to jury rig one strobe to the cold shoe on top of the housing, literally strapped to the focus light mount with duct tape with no ability to swivel downward. I figured what the heck, it was worth a try. Somehow, I stumbled on a lighting setup that used the very edge of the light and produced better images than I had been making. Two examples below. Now I actively try to use just the edge of light when possible, aiming the strobes slightly outward or upward. Remember that strobes produce a cone of light at about 90-100 degrees. You also want the front of the strobe just behind the front of the port. I like them at 10 and 2 o’clock because it seems more natural to my eye to have the light coming from above the subject. I also frequently turn one strobe off, or turn one down to several stops if the shadows are too harsh. There are other ways to set up that might seem counterintuitive. Martin Edge’s book The Underwater Photographer and Ales Mustard’s book Underwater Photography Master Class both have lots of good material on strobe positioning. There are many good tutorials on this and other topics available on line: Backscatter tutorials UW Photo Guide tutorials Dive Photo Guide tutorials Good luck, and have fun!
  13. These are all wonderful, but I find the cardinalfish and pipefish images spectacular. Again, well done!
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