Jump to content

Magrone

Member
  • Content Count

    146
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Magrone last won the day on July 16 2018

Magrone had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About Magrone

  • Rank
    Wolf Eel

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D7000
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240 2X
  1. let me know if you have one for sale please thanks!
  2. I have had the Inon z240's for 10 years with no problems ever, and even managed to bring one back to life after flooding the battery compartment. I have used the Z330's on 8 dives so far with no issues. I bought the Z330s without even considering the other new strobes Retra, Sea&Sea, etc... based solely on my experience with the reliable z240. So far the z330 has not disappointed. I have not decided yet whether or not to sell the z240s, or keep them as macro strobes.
  3. I've been ordering from Yuzo at uwdigitalcamera.com for ten years without any problems. They are a reputable dealer out of Japan, so the only drawback is an all Japanese manual.
  4. The o-ring had been severed from the twisting pressure... Im assuming thats the pop that I heard, because the strobe itself was fine.
  5. Lubing the o ring on a regular basis is important not only to prevent pinches when screwing them down, but to prevent the o-ring from breaking from the twisting pressure. I heard a pop when I was underwater one time and noticed the strobe stopped firing and then the red light went out. When I got out I saw that the o-ring had burst and the battery compartment was flooded. However, I rinsed the compartment with fresh water and went over the contacts with vinegar and the strobe recovered just fine.
  6. From what I understand the battery compartment is sealed from the rest of the strobe. But the pressure from flooding the compartment can cause a crack in the compartment resulting in exposure to the rest of the strobe. So I guess it depends on the severity of the flood and how long the batteries are stewing in salt water. I flooded a strobe and it was fine after cleaning it with vinegar.
  7. I received mine very fast after ordering from Japan, through the link Paolo mentioned. There are now Ebay listings trying to gouge would be buyers listing at $300 over retail with $50 shipping, making the total price $1000 per strobe. https://www.ebay.com/itm/INON-Strobe-Flash-Z-330-Underwater-ultra-wide (weitwinkel)-110-220-lumen-Lighting-EMS-Japan/263758486784?epid=25015326894&hash=item3d693b1d00:g:j7oAAOSwE7Jajft6
  8. And the new Canon 35mm macro lens is good for fish portraits and does 1:1 macro. Sea and Sea just came out with a port for it, so even more reason to skip the mid range zoom.
  9. You can think of a fisheye lens as a dive photography lens if that helps. It allows you to get very close and get it all in. This helps with lighting because the closer you get, the easier it is for your strobes to effectively light your subject. With a small dome you are able to get inches from your subject. So the Napolean (if its friendly), rhinopia and frogfish are also doable, and you will have enough space to add a diver or a sunball for depth and scale... which can greatly enhance the impact of the photo. Honestly my advice for someone starting out with cropped sensor is to get a fisheye lens and a 60mm lens. Most things are covered with these two lenses. As your macro photography advances you can get the 100m and go crazy with diopters. I personally would not bother with a mid range zoom for photographing wildlife underwater. Shooting through water degrades your IQ. The further you are from your subject, the more water you shoot through, and the more detail/clarity you will lose. A good rule of thumb for starting out in underwater photography is to get close, then get closer if possible. Once you master this technique then you can adjust to your personal preference. The photo of the turtle is a good example. That photo would be difficult to get with a fisheye lens because in order to fill the frame you would have to get very close to the turtle. The lighting detail and overall IQ would be good, but you would scare off the cleaner fish. So there will be trade offs with the fisheye, but its the best place to start IMO.
  10. 45 is an essential tool for me now and I wouldn't consider trying to shoot without one,macro or wide. But there are limitations to its usefulness in wide and macro, namely shooting downward, and into the water column, esp at night. I think if you mainly shot downward, which is not something most people do anyway underwater, or did a lot of blackwater diving, I think a straight finder would be more suitable.
  11. 10-18mm is also an option but would require a larger dome and proper extension ring. I personally like how the 10-18mm works underwater but use my Canon 8-15mm way more. A big advantage of using a fisheye lens that focuses close, like the Canon 8-15 or tokina 10-17, is the ability to use a small dome, which is easier for travel, easier to light your subject without strobe flare, and the ability to get really close to subjects with close focus wide angle technique. 10-18mm is good for shooting Wrecks (straight lines) and somewhat good for shooting large fish like sharks. The fisheye is just more versatile and I don't think you will miss the rectilinear once you get used to it.
  12. Please let me know if you have one for sale!
  13. Thanks for your response Gabriel, I don't claim to be an octopus expert, I am merely stating observations from having hundreds of so called "interactions" with reef octopus for a over a decade. They are shy typically, which is why it hid from you in the first place. I personally don't believe in using techniques to have "interactions" with marine animals. I believe that photographers should photograph animals exactly how they find them, without harm or manipulation used to produce the photograph. And the video you shared does display the amazing capabilities of Octopus in shallow tide pools, but I don't think it saves this photo and how it was achieved. Now the question of whether your photo is natural behavior has been answered. You admitted to forcing the "interaction" with the animal. Does this disqualify your image from the contest? That is for the judges to decide. But the real reason I felt compelled to bring this up in a public forum is because of the two missing arms I see in some photographs and then one missing arm in another photo, and then, what seems to be a healthy (albeit scared) 8 armed octopus in another. It is hard to tell if I am perceiving this correctly. Maybe the octopus shifts and hides its arms in some photos and not others. My apologies if the octopus was found this way....But With the inking and the odd behavior and the admitted forced "interaction", it gives me a bad feeling that the animal was damaged for the purpose of making a pretty photo. I have zero tolerance for this type of behavior from fellow photographers and I sincerely hope this was not the case. This looks very fishy to me, so I spoke up.
  14. The abuse of octopus in Hawaii for photographs is very common. I was actually the person who confronted this photographer on social media about his method of achieving this photo. With the help of Adam, the photo was removed from Padi's website and the wetpixel Facebook page. It was a very popular image, and the photographer continues to profit from it. Though it is clearly in violation of the ethical standards we as photographers should be setting for the dive community. I think octopus abuse continues in Hawaii because of how quickly unknown photographers get attention for posting these photos on instagram and other social media outlets. A characteristic that most of these octopus pics have in common is a whitish and speckled coloration of distress shown in the octopus. Of course seeing an octopus at the surface or clinging to a leg of a model is also a dead giveaway. I live in Hawaii and dive all the time and have never seen an octopus at the surface or swimming through the water column. The common Day Octopus is found hiding in coral rubble mostly, or occasionally along the seafloor hunting. An octopus is a master of camouflage which helps it hunt and hide, so it is much more at home in the sand or rubble. I suppose it is possible for common reef octopus to hunt in the water column but I would also assume that this is very rare, and risky, as it could easily be picked off by faster swimming predators Which leads me to another photograph that may be ethically questionable. I have noticed this same white coloration in the octopus picture that won Photographer of the Year at UPY London last year. To me, the octopus looks distressed, is in an unnatural position and is flailing arms just like the ones that I see so commonly from Hawaii photographers. I looked at the Instagram account of the photographer who won the competition and have noticed that the octopus is at the surface in many of the photographs. I do realize the photograph was taken in shallow water, but I have also observed octopus in shallow water, but have never observed this behavior. I lived near a shallow bay in Guam for 5 years where I would commonly see octopus in the shallows. Occasionally I saw them quickly flee from a position that might be compromising to their safety but soon they settled back into the coral rubble. They never approached the surface. Never hunted by "dancing" with arms flailed. Another pic shows tentacles attached to the dome port of the camera, which I could understand if the octopus might be curious, but this octopus does not look curious. Another pic shows the octopus inking in defense, which is clearly an escape tactic to evade predators. Another shows an arm missing, (possibly ripped off?). It is in my opinion that the octopus appears to be in distress and is trying to flee the photographer rather than "hunting" like judges have concluded. This is hard to bring up because I know this sort of thing can be damaging to a photographers reputation, but I am tired of seeing this reckless behavior for the sake of contests or "likes"in social media. And I may be off base here, I hope I am. But It would be good to hear what Alex Mustard and/or the other judges of the UPY contest can contribute on the topic. I assume the judges have the best interest of the marine environment in mind and would not promote photography that compromises it, and I also assume the judges asked the photographer if the photo in question was taken without harassment to the animal. If so, great. And if the photo was taken without harassment, even better. But I think the evidence on the photographers Instagram account and website is questionable. In Hawaii Octopus are pulled out for the coral rubble and tossed into the water column for photographs. The same method is used by fisherman to catch and kill octopus for food, sometimes these fisherman are the photographers and sometimes the fisherman do this for photographers. But the point needs to be distinguished that this behavior is not ethical in regards to photographing our fragile marine environment. If this photograph was taken with considerable harassment to the animal I don't think that it should place in a contest, and certainly not win a contest entitled "Photographer of the Year" There have been many copycat photographers in Hawaii in regards to the harassment of octopus for photos and the trend continues because of the popularity of the photographs. Here is a link to the photographer's website where he displays other photographs from the shoot: http://www.underwater-landscape.com/-/galeries/photo-sous-marine/cephalopode
×
×
  • Create New...