Magrone

I have a Nauticam housing for the D7000 that I am willing to sell. Please PM me or email tcherbas@gmail.com

Hmmm... a thread that is nearly 6 years old resurrected for the purpose of advertising in the used classified section ... maybe post in the COMMERCIAL classifieds? Just a thought.

Please PM with offer. Thanks.

I have the NA-D7000, not the V version, like you said, but the standard version has many of the same features. I actually bought the standard version a few months ago because it's less bulky and I never shoot video underwater. I ended up saving $500 over the "V" because a certain retailer was clearing out the "old" version. Simply put, I love my housing. That being said I will point out one of the very few problems that I encounter when using the NA-d7000; I'm not sure about the new push button latches that are being implemented on all the new Nauticams. The simplicity of the design is great, however, in my experience, after the first few dives, one of the buttons sticks quite often. When it gets stuck, it takes about a minute or so to wiggle out of its hole. This is annoying because when it is stuck, the latch is not completely closed on the housing and if the latch were to be bumped the housing could potentially pop right open. I have to make sure I hear the click of the latch and test that it is secure every time I close the housing, which is not a big deal, but a little annoying. This is probably just my housing and might even be fixable if I were to send it to a Nauticam rep., I just use it quite often, and don't want to hassle with sending it in. So if one of my latches sticks early on its life, I just wonder how the design will hold up after years of use. Probably my only other complaint is the spacing of the shutter and aperture control knobs from the handle. I have smaller hands so it is a bit of stretch to comfortably control these without taking my hand off the handle. I think the V version improves this though.

Based on your interests you want a DSLR. Over-unders will be much easier (or rather, necessary) with a dome port + a fisheye lens, or even a really wide rectilinear. For the best video+ ISO performing Canon at the most reasonable price I would suggest the Canon T2I in a SEA&SEA RDX acrylic housing. Same price as the IKELITE but IMO better ergonomics + designed for fiber optic TTL which is SO easy and with a little fine tuning, reliably accurate with Inon strobes. Look for used for sure. Wetpixel/Ebay are the best, Scubaboard sometimes has DSLR stuff. Reef Photo and video also carries a ton of used stuff and is updated quite often, but usually a little pricier than classified ads The upside of going with Ssea&Sea or Ikelite for that matter, is that you can find used bits often. Also, if you have not done so already, definately post a "WANTED" ad with a specific set up in mind. Make sure it is specific IE "Looking for Canon t2i housing, Ikelite or Sea&Sea preferred" You may be pleasantly surprised at the responses to a specified listing. If it is general, IE "looking for an UW housing" you are less likely to get a response. I am a very budget minded uw photographer and all I can say is check the classifieds daily. Under $1000 is not really realistic. Shoot for under $2000. Mainly because good strobes like the Inon brand that I mentioned, hold their value very well. To save money you could skip the strobes at first and see what you can get using ambient light, then upgrade when you find the right deal on a good pair of strobes. Patience and UW photography have an undeniable relationship

I bit the bullet a week ago and bought a new one. Thanks for the replies though.

"Easily replaceable & rechargeable Lithium battery. (Battery and Charger included)" is a big selling point for me. My Sola 600 recently died (hopefully just the battery) right before my upcoming trip to the Philippines. The same thing happened to my Suunto D6 right before I went to Raja Ampat. If you travel frequently, I think User Replaceable batteries are the way to go. I may have to pick up one of these.

$600 off retail seems like a good price to me. I'd snatch it if I had the money.

Thanks Bill, I will try taking it to the local dealer.

I don't know why people are saying the VR is "useless" under water. I quote the VR product description: "The VRII offers a stable viewfinder image for easy frame composition even at high magnification shooting." I find this feature very helpful when composing at 1:1 and beyond. I feel that this feature alone sets it apart from other lenses. I love the VR, The hunting is a bit much in low light, but it's FAST. When doing Super macro work all you have to do is use it to get you subject somewhat in focus anyway, then switch to manual and rock back and forth, then focus bracket fire away. I prefer shooting the 60 with a fiber optic snoot and the 105VR with the Subsee +10.

I checked with L&M and they said to return it to the dealer that I bought it from, but I bought it from a Wetpixel member.

Still dead..... the red lights flash for about a minute after tapping now, but it never takes a charge. Occasionally when tapping the lights flash green for a little while before turning back to red. I bought this used ("barely used") so I can't just send it back. Please, any info would be appreciated.

Glass or Acrylic. Preference goes to the Zen glass mini, but let me know what you have. Thanks!

My Sola 600 Just went out at the end of a dive and I can't seem to revive it. I have tried the tapping method and it gets three flashing red lights for about 4 seconds and then nothing. I have maybe used it on 30 dives and it has never been dropped or abused. The charger is fine, it's the light unit itself that has not come on since my dive. Any help?

I recently changed systems from Canon to Nikon (T2I to D7000) and have steadily been accumulating a satisfactory macro set up. I have a fairly large trip to PNG in 7 months and I would really like to have a solid wide/midrange set up as well. I had the Tokina 10-17 on the Canon and used it on a trip to Raja Ampat with satisfactory results, but I can't help but think it might just be better to use the Nikkor 10.5 for a little better IQ ( I like the images I see from this lens more than the Tokina). I will not be buying the Sigma 17-70, this lens does not appeal to me. My considerations have been: N(Nikkor) 10.5, N 10-24; Covers WA but may be lacking in mid range, maybe not enough reach for sharks. or N 10.5, Tokina 11-16, N 17-55: Expensive but covers everything or Tokina 10-17+tele: Good for CFWA, but does it have enough reach for mid range subjects? The most cost effective, travel friendly set up is the Tokina + tele, but I have some questions to ask those who use this: Having never used a teleconverter before, how hard is it to get proper lighting with a wide angle zoom lens? Since you lose a full stop of light, does that effect the ability to use S-TTL with Fiber Optics, or do you have to shoot manual power for proper exposure? I know I had some trouble achieving proper exposure shooting S-TTL with the Tokina alone, mostly shots were 1/2 to a full stop underexposed, even with the flash compensation set at +2. Thanks.

Thanks for the feedback. It seems this may just be attributed to an instance of bad luck. I do think it may have been caused by a temperature change as well... like how a hot drinking glass fresh from the dishwasher can crack if it is immediately filled with really cold water.... in which case I don't really know how to avoid this if i am to have one shipped to Guam again.

I recently bought a used "Pristine condition" Nauticam 45 finder on Ebay for a good price that had only been used on a couple of dives. But when it arrived, I was disappointed to find a long obvious crack, the entire length of the inside lens. I contacted the seller, who is also a member of Wetpixel, and he said that the crack was not present when he sent it. It came wrapped in a thin layer of bubble wrap inside the orignal Nauticam box that was placed in the center of a larger box supported by packing peanuts. I did notice that there was a small amount of room for movement in the inner box and there were no fragile stickers placed on the outside of the box. So I was wondering if anyone else has had this happen to them when having a viewfinder shipped in the mail, or maybe if the Nauticam finders are particularly fragile. I am actually considering the Inon 45 finder instead now just because of this issue... though I am not sure that it is any less fragile. Or maybe it was just poor packing. Needless to say I am sending it back and getting a refund, but I would like to avoid this a happening in the future.

If you are thinking about the new "V" version that is about to be released and want to get rid of your old, obsolete NA-D7000, please let me know. Thanks.

I just sold my Canon T2I and housing and am looking to upgrade to the Nikon D7000 or Canon 7D. Please let me know if you have either setup and are wanting to sell. Prefer Nauticam, Sea&Sea, Hugyfot, Aquatica. Thanks!

Both are in good condition with minor scrapes on exterior NX Compact Macro Port Base $140 Extension Ring 22 $80 Or make an offer for both. Thanks!

Did a transition trip on the Big Blue Explorer last June. Weather was excellent with flat water every day except the last. Tubbataha is walls, walls, walls. Even the night dives are wall dives. I had a great time diving Tubbataha but was a little surprised at the amount of coral bleaching going on down to about 30 ft. This was consistent most dives. We didn't have a lot of current on our trip and not a lot of palagics either. Reef sharks most dives, but 3 or 4 at most on any dive; mostly whitetips occasionally a grey reef or a nurse shark. We did see some hammerheads, which was the highlight of the trip. One very small manta was spotted and there were lots of turtles. I have heard a number of reports about how much Tubbataha has gone down hill recently due to overfishing. Now with the coral bleaching I would say it is even more fragile. The coral down the walls is still excellent, the barrel sponges and gorgonians are gigantic, but I felt the fish life was lacking compared to Komodo and of course, Raja Ampat. Maybe it's better with a lot of current. Though the few current dives we did have did not produce more action on the reefs. The transition trip was OK, but Apo Reef has a lot of damage from cyanide and dynamite fishing. The highlights at Apo were lots of turtles and a couple of eagle rays. I would not dive Apo Reef as a destination. We stopped at the Cuyo islands which again has a lot of damage from dynamite etc. and there was pretty much no reef. Lots of macro stuff though including pygmy seahorses and a good amount of Nudibranchs. My dives at Tubbataha were very nice, but 5 days of diving walls 4 or 5 times a day was enough for me. For reef health and fish action I'd rather go Komodo, or almost anywhere in Indonesia, before going back to Tubbataha.

Thanks all for the replies. Kevster thanks for steering me to your trip report on Alor. Very helpful. And thank you for your photography specific experience with the currents. Great pics bversteegh! Now that is the kind of experience i am hoping for in Komodo. I keep hearing different things about Komodo/Alor this time in July. It seems by bversteegh's experience, the south is definately doable. Though Kevster and others have said that seas are rough. I will not be diving from a land based op, so no need to discuss the daily crossing from LBJ to Komodo. I did that the first time on the way to the liveaboard. It was a windy day which made for a wild ride and not worth repeating. I am actually considering CN Dive's liveaboard (Luko mentioned them. Great pics too btw!) mostly because of the great price they offer, but also because of the good reputation they seem to have. Alor sounds good for macro and Wide Angle reefscapes in slack tide, but a little less convenient to get to then Komodo. I know southern Komodo is great for photo ops, that's where I really want to go. But in July this might not be an option. Any more insight is much appreciated. Thanks!

Anyone been to both places?

Still need one ULCS clamp and one 8 inch buoyancy arm. Anyone?

If you haven't found one yet, this is the cable you need: http://www.uwdigitalcamera.com/store/produ...=271&page=1