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Posts posted by LyN

  1. I am selling a Sigma 14mm F2.8 EX Aspherical HSM lens for Nikon. It can be used for full frame or DX Nikon DSLRs.


    The lens is used, but in good shape. From the EX series, and has received very good reviews. Coverage angle of 114,2º, minimal focusing distance of 18cm. It works flawlessly behind a dome, no diopter needed at all.

    Fast focusing with HSM.

    It includes original caps and holster.


    I am asking 360€ or $500 for it.









  2. I cant understand the diagram. How does it relate to the pop up flash. What do you have to do to get to the switch to aler it.

    The picture shows the inside mechanism of the pop-up flash. You can access it taking out the cover of the flash. This simple switch tells the camera if the pop-up flash is in or out. Normally the part called "operator" moves inside the "switch" and opens and closes it. What I did was, using small pliers, to modify the curve of the "switch" part so that the switch is operated at half extension of the pop-up flash instead of full extension.


    Got it?

  3. Hi jcclink,

    I always use the on-board flash set to TTL mode, but I can set to manual & power settings from full to 1/128th too.

    Does your external flashes work on TTL mode setting on-board to 1/100th ?

    I tried this a long time ago but didn´t work.

    If you want to shoot on S-TTL you need to put the internal flash in TTL mode. Here you can see the settings.

    If you would rather shoot in manual or in external auto, you can set the internal flash to whatever, as the Inon will only use it as trigger sync.

  4. Well, yes, normally the pop-up flash must be completely extended to work. But I searched the internet for information on that, and I found some people explaining the functioning of the strobe to solve the problem. I used the info for exactly the opposite: you just need the slightly modify the curve of the switch shown on the attached picture so it closes contact when the strobe is just opened. It has worked perfectly for me.




    Ok, so, it seems I should point both optic cables to the pop-up flash.


    Gudge, when you say B you mean twelve o'clock? Ok, I was pointing the power dial to Optical TTL (nine) so that may be the reason why I wasn't completely satisfied. Thanks!

  5. Yes, I have managed to build an optical port for the Ikelite D70 housing (simple way, just a block of nylon worked out to fix two optic cables in front of the camera flash) and I have also manged to tweak the camera's strobe to ire when it is partially open (as the housing does not allow complete rise of the strobe).


    And now, the question is... how do I connect my two strobes (Z240 Type I and Z240 Type II) to have S-TTL for macro? Do I have to place the two optic cables in front of the camera's strobe, or do I have to use one as master strobe -connected to the camera- and one as secondary strobe -connected to the master strobe-?


    Does anyone have any experience on that?

  6. Some of the buttons on Ikelite housing are just not pushed out by springs, because they are pushed and turned freely to push different camera buttons. These buttons are sucked into the house by the relatively low pressure inside the housing when compared to outside pressure at certain depths. When they go into the housing the may push any button they find in their way.


    If this is the problem you are having, and to avoid it, just turn and push the button so that it doesn't touch anything on the camera when sucked in the housing.


    Hope it helps.

  7. Mine doesn´t react to breath. I just checked it, and, at least the unit I have does not react in any way to breath.

    Thanks, that's good info Bent C.


    Given the price of the unit you are referring to, I will buy one of those as well and install both. Irrespective of price, I would really like have the extra warning of the buzzer.

    Yes, I have reached the conclusion that this one is the best option. I am ordering one.

  8. Mine certainly doesn´t trigger with humidity (and I have had it out and active in 100% relative humidity in a rainforest). It would probably be quite problematic to have it trigger on changes in humidity, as that should change with temperature, thus setting it of when submerging the housing in cooler water.





    This is very interesting. Answering ATJ, no I am not sure. This is why I opened this thread.


    Bent C, I read somewhere (I am not able to find this reference anymore) that this leak detector could be checked by breath directly on the sensor. If this is not true, then I find no reason to opt for this detector instead of Chris Peter's, which also seems nice and is much cheaper including shipping to Spain (about 35€).

  9. Arnon and André, thanks for your help. The detectors you are suggesting are of the simple kind. This means they're just simple circuits in which the water acts as part of an electrical switch, which means you need a certain amount of water to go over the sensor to start functioning.


    The one I was referring to really senses if humidity inside the housing has increased. It doesn't need water to actually go over the sensor, which makes it quite more sensitive.


    The thing I find it it is missing is some kind of buzzer, ceirtanly.

  10. I was recently the victim of a flood in my Ikelite housing. Well, in fact the victims were my D70s and my loved Tokina 10-17. Anyway: although it was due to human error -yes, my error- I could have saved my gear if I had noticed the flood soon enough.


    This is why I am planning on installing a leak detector on my Ikelite housing. I have been looking around, and the only aftermarket leak detector that I have been able to find is this one.




    Does anybody know it?

    Do you know of any other leak detector that I could use?

    Do you think it will be useful?

    Do yuu think the price (USD70) is right?


    Thanks! ;)

  11. The working distance at 1:1 has to be the same because both are 60mm, which implies that they both have the same angle of view that delivers 1:1 at the same distance.

    Well, I am not so sure. To be able to focus, the "old" lens changes its focal distance so, effectively, it becomes more than 60m. This is why the minimum focus distance for both lenses is not the same. it is 185mm for the AF-S one, 220mm for the "old" one.


    David, from your Pros & Cons I would highlight the fact that the lenns does not work with teleconverters. For me, the 60mm+1.4x is one of the macro and portrait lenses I like more. I love it in fact!! Better than the 105mm...

  12. I woud say that underwater vignetting would be equal or less than topside. So, if your shade works ok on land, it will be ok diving!


    Anyway, I think your method takes too much work. It is not so easy to cut the pipe, so cutting it until it is ok may be a bit too much. i would suggest you look for someone having the adequate shade to find out the right size before you cut it...

  13. In Germany I am not aware of any housing manufacturer how offers a port for the Sigma 17-70 and if you have a look on the Ikelite webpage you find a prove that this lens is either wrongly positioned behind the dome or can not be used in its full zoom range [remark (18) in the port list].

    The Sigma works flawlessly on many housings, including Ikelite (using the .24 dome body) and Sea&Sea. No vignetting on wide angle and no soft corners, even without diopters. The Sigma 17-70 HSM is a little bit more difficult, as it has a bigger diameter and regular zoom gears do not fit. But for me, it wasn't a great deal to adapt one of my gears.

  14. hey, I would lke to know if anyone had problems dismantling the dome assembly frm the wide extension (#5510.10). I am seriously utilising every single inch of my muscles and the two just dont come off. Or did I tightened it too much ?? Thxs for the help.

    Just get a strap wrench like this ones:




    If you don't find them elsewere there are lots of cheap ones on ebay (less than $10 incl. shipping).


    Even if you use lubricant on the thread it is too hard to unthread the bodies without the wrench.

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