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Everything posted by LyN

  1. Hi Bruce... mmmmm... well, it's not so strange. I have used the Sigma with the diopter as wide angle, and my impression is that is enhances corner sharpness. With the dome, maximum focus distance is not an issue, as the virtual image gets close to the dome. However, the Sigma in macro reaches a magnification of 1:2,3, which can go further with the diopter behind a flat port. Up to here, no doubt, I have checked this. However, I do not know how much this limits its hability to focus at a greater distance behind this flat port. I know it won't focus at infinity, but I suppose there's some optical theory behind which I don't master, so I wonder if anyone knows what the maximum focusing distance would be when using the dipoter, to evaluate this combo as a portrait lens. I guess now it's more clear, isn't it?
  2. I'll try to post some photos of the port with the 67mm thread installed on it.
  3. Yeah, the 17-70 is a good don't know what I'll find lens, as it may go from a moderate wide angle to a moderate macro. The right port for it is a 8" port with the .24 port. But this port is really better for wide angle than for macro. If you want to use it to save some lenses on a trip, you may want to bring the dome port and the 60mm port for macro (or a macro modular setup). Using a diopter (+2) is always a good idea on this lens, as it improves sharpness on the corners in wide angle and shortens focusing distance in macro (although it makes it more difficult for portraits if you are not using the dome, as the dipoter limits maximun focusing distance). BTW, does someone know how much does a +2 dipoter limit maximun focusing distance?
  4. Well... first, I must say this is the way I have flooded twice my Ikelite rig. So, I have gained a little bit of experience about it, as since the sencond time I have dived with it quite a few times in rough conditions (Maldives channels in strong current, for example) without a problem. I tighten the screws of the port locks until they can just slide from one position two another, with just a little bit of resistance. If you do it like this, it works ok with the shorter and loger dome bodies. In this position, the dome moves. It has about 1mm of movement at the dome sides, which is ok. The problem why I have flooded the rig a couple of times was because I left those screws a bit more loose, and even with the pressure, the dome could move enought to make the o-ring not to seal the port.
  5. Don't know the Seacam ports, but it shouldn't be difficut to build a macro lens adapter using a step-down ring. I have built one on my 105mm Ikelite port. I have glued a 82-67mm step-down metal ring so now I can thread-in my UN PCU-01 67mm wet macro lens. This and the Woody's Diopter are good and fairly priced options. I choosed mine because I already had the 67mm wet macro lens.
  6. After installinf the dome on my UWL-100 I never had the temptation to take it out or even use the Epoque DCL-20 I also had at that time. Strictly talking about photography, I cannot think of any cons. IMHO, the dome is well worth what you pay for it.
  7. Eventually, you may find one on sale on ebay or on the classified forums like the one here on Wetpixel.
  8. In fact, probably yes, although the poll may not be trustable. A product is normaly cheaper than other for some reason. And this is normaly related to materials, spending done in design and checking, etc. I own an Ikelite housing, and I would recommend them because the product is fair considering the price, and because the customer service quality is outstanding. But I realize that the port system could be more fool proof. My Ikelite housing has flooded, and it was my fault. But the port system design made it easy for me to make a mistake.
  9. Hi power leds get hot. In fact, one of the critical design aspects of hi power led torches is heat disipation. Perhaps Inon is considering that the led could be turned on for a whole dive, which would make heat disipation in the strobe even more critical.
  10. The HSM version of the lens is quite wider compared to the non-HSM one, so I doubt the same gear will fit. At least, the Ikelite gear for the non-HSM does not fit at all. In fact, for the HSM version there's no gear, so I had to build it myself... Hope this is not the case with S&S...
  11. I think this thread sould go to the digicam's forum... anyway. Yes, the epoque lens has a slightly lower price, but my recommendation would be to go for the Inon UWL-100. I have two reasons: the first is that, after having tried both lenses, I think the Inon has a better IQ. The sencond one is that perhpas, in the future, you would like to go wider. With the Epoque, there's nothing to do. With the Inon, you can allways buy the dome, which makes it wider underwater.
  12. Both work ok with the 8" dome and the .24 body. But it's not so easy about zoom gear. The Ikelite standard gear works with the non HSM version of the lens. In fact, the HSM version is too fat to work with any of the Ikelite gears up to date. To make it work I have worked out two different zoom rings. Both work ok with the same sleeve as the Tokina 10-17. The first one is just a ring made of 1mm thin neoprene, wide enough to cover the zoom ring. Easy to build from a piece of neoprene using scisors and neoprene glue. The second one is a ring made of the hard part of velcro. In both cases, the sleeve just goes over the ring, which has enough grip. If you are interested, I can post pictures to make it clearer.
  13. As said by Ikleite in the Ports Chart for Nikon Cameras, you need the #5509.29 Special Zoom & Clamp Set for the Tokina 10-17. Once you have it, as Ken said, you need to use the adhesive pads to make the clamp fit the lens, and there you go!
  14. I use a tool like the one you can see here on ebay. It has never let me down! B)
  15. LyN

    FS: Ikelite 8" dome

    Edit: Body is equivalent for 5505.10 body. I include the low profile latches needed for this dome. LAST price! 215€, about 305USD. 20€ for international shipping aprox. I can take Paypal for payment.
  16. Check if your Ikleite tray has a lead inside to help with the buoyancy. In fact I think it is supposed to compensate for the buoyancy of the dome and level the rig. I have decided I do not need it... so I removed it, and it has helped me a lot. Now my rig is nearly neutral using 8" buoyancy arms from ULCS.
  17. I see the point. I use it in other forums to maintain the information in classifieds, so new prices or new information is always updated in the main post of the thread, and not waaaaaay down where nobody sees it.
  18. LyN

    FS: Ikelite 8" dome

    I cannot edit the previous post, so I add here: I would consider any reasonable offer. Buyer pays actual shipping.
  19. I cannot edit my own posts a few days after they have been created. For example, I would like to edit a classified I created some days ago, but I do not find the EDIT button to do so... Anyone knows why is this happening to me? Is it supposed to work like this? Thanks! Edit: As you can see, I know how to edit a post. But the EDIT button just disappears some days (don't know how many) after creation...
  20. Inon #3 lens allows to focus the lens closer to the subject. In fact, as a lens, it is the same as the UCL-330 lens, but with a different thread. This is why I don't find it very useful with the 60mm, which already focus very close. ¡Yes, the P&S was easier to rig, but it wasn't so much fun!
  21. IMO a diopter with the 60mm is just too much. Focusing distance with the 60mm is already short, so adding a diopter makes it really difficult to frame, focus, and use the strobe. Moreover, the TC is good for fish portraits, where the diopter does not help.
  22. I would rather suffer thinking about the insurance, but not the flood.
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