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Everything posted by LyN

  1. LyN

    FS: Ikelite 8" dome

    New price!! In euro, 230€. In USD 325. The international shipping cost is 20€, USD25. I can take Paypal. BTW, the low profile port locks needed for this dome are also included.
  2. I've been using the 60mm with a Tamron PRO 1.4x and find it to be a good choice when compared to the 60mm alone. It isn't so quick to focus, specially on litle moving creatures (like gobies on moving corals), but is very good for nudibrachs, fish portraits, blennies, etc. allowing for a bit more of safety space for them.
  3. LyN

    FS: Ikelite 8" dome

    Good point. Thanks. Body is equivalent to the 5505.10 body. Shipping to the US is not such a big problem though. I've shipped bigger/heavier things, no problem. If shipping cost would be an issue, I'm sure we would manage.
  4. LyN

    FS: Ikelite 8" dome

    It's a good opportunity, isn't it?
  5. I am using them, and they are so solid I can even use them as handle to my D70 rig out of the water. No doubt about them.
  6. I am using the Sigma 17-70 HSM with the 8" dome port and the .24 extension body. It works flawlessly. I don't know about the 6" port, but as I also shoot with the 10-17, and with the 14mm, the 8" is more versatile for me.
  7. LyN

    FS: Ikelite 8" dome

    New price: only 250€!!
  8. After a hard internal contest with myself, this is the winner for 2007: Oly 5050 with UWL100+dome & Z240. I got a hard time after the lion to make it comfortable with me below him, but I finnally got a couple of good pictures as I envisioned them in my mind. And those were the finalists, made with the same rig: All taken in my trip to Tofo Beach, Mozambique, in March.
  9. I have a Sigma 14mm f2.8 EX HSM lens. 114º of coverage. Very sharp. a good lens. I am in Barcelona, Spain. The lens could get you in time. Is it of any interest for you?
  10. I am selling a 8" Ikelite dome with short body, with its protective neoprene hood. I would add as a present a DIY shade that can be easyly added/removed. It matches wide angle lenses, like fisheyes (10mm, 10-17mm, 15mm) or rectilinears (10-20mm, 14mm, etc) The body cannot be changed, it is solid with the dome. Here you can see the dome and the shade (although in the picture the shade was not completely finished, now the edges are smooth). The dome is a bit scartched by normal use, but being made of methacrylate, the scratches are not perceived underwater, so they do not affect pictures at all. Anyway, it could allways be possible to wipe them out, although it is not needed. In any other sense, it is in good shape. The price is 270€ plus actual price of shippment.
  11. I have Kenko PRO and Tamron PRO, and yes, the are absolutely the same. I think they are both manufactured by Kenko and re-branded by Tamron. And yes, a good place for buying them is eBay. I bought my converters for 62€ and 72€ including shipment to Europe. If you look around a little bit you can find deals like those.
  12. Ok! I though you meant a more powerful Inon Strobe...
  13. Phil, Timmoranuk wants the UFL165-AD fisheye lens, but in 67mm thread version, so this part is not a solution... Perhaps it would loose some of Inon's pros, like size, batteries, etc. But anyway, yes, it would be nice anyway
  14. Are you saying that it doesn't fire when using the electric sync but it does fire when using the optic fibre? If this is the case, you may have an internally broken sync cable. This seems not to be rare with Ikelite sync cables as far as I know...
  15. You have several options... my preferred one would be to use ULCS tray and arm with, possibly, floating arm sections, depending on how negative is your rig underwater. You can also go for non floating arm sections and add Inon floats if needed, as they can be attached to regular ULCS sections of 8" and above.
  16. Using WA I allways use manual exposure set between -1EV and -1.7EV on medium blue, using spot metering. I then set strobe power to match the subject size and distance. If you freedive, the mechanics may be fairly the same: you know the depth you will be diving to, so you set exposure for that depth (the speth and angle of the shot should be more or less the same for all shots on the same exposure). From then on, you sould only change exposure when you want to change the conditions of the shot. Are you using strobes? TTL or manual?
  17. I have never physically touched this camera, so I am not sure how it can be done, but a good material to block light from the strobe and still allow control for the external strobe through optic fiber is unexposed but developed slide or a piece of black area from a radiograph. For my Oly 5050 what I've done is to cut a piece from the unexposed begginig of a slide roll just a bit bigger than the internat strobe. Then, using adhesive velcro, I have cutted a frame of about 1-2mm wide to go arround the internal strobe and on the slide film. It has worked flawlessly for many dives.
  18. No. These shots were taken with my compact rig, using UWL-100 + dome. I was just illustrating the effect of the fisheye distortion on pictures like the ones I am intending to take with my new DSLR rig. I really think this distortion increases the Wow! effect if used adequately.
  19. Let me suggest that someone who shoots P&S and is looking for a book is probably new to underwater photography. In this context, I don't think that somethong specific on P&S is needed, but better something sound introducing underwater photography concepts. Thinking this way, I remember which were the books that gave me this concepts: Jim Church's Essential Guide to Composition and Bryan Skerry's Successful Underwater Photography.
  20. Thanks, glad you liked them. Well, yes, I know I need something in between the WA and the macro. I am looking towards the Sigma 17-70mm HSM, but still figuring out how to gear it inside the Ike housing. In the meanwhile, I will have to use what I have!
  21. Well... yes, it's only one... but I am trying to reduce because I cannot bring it all with me. That's why I feel nice to have is different to must have. Moreover, it's not usually me who takes the topside pictures... thanks! Hi serge. This is the kind of info I am looking for... I thought about that, but I was wondering if it made any sense, as the Tokina has an angle of coverage from 180º to 100º, and the Sigma 114º. So the Tokina, at its far end, is supposed to have less coverage than the Sigma... isn't it like this? What am I loosing? I agree that a midrange zoom -like the Sigma 17-70mm- would be very nice to have at the channels, where you first get the action (at a distance) and then the channel itself (with macro opportunities), but the 14mm is not really there...
  22. Hi all, I am new to DSLR for underwater photography, so there are some aspects in which I have little to no experience at all, as in this case. I have a rectilinear moderate wide angle lens, the Sigma 14mm, which is nice and sharp. And I also own the Tokina 10-17mm FE. When it comes to dive at home, the difference is pretty clear, so I am able to take the two lenses and chose for each dive the one I like the most... But travelling is a new game. I really can't find any reason to take the Sigma considering the problems we all have to pack the rig as hand luggage and carry it through the airline's control. But there might be a good reason in which I cannot think about right now why I should take it! As long as I know, I won't be diving any wrecks, where the rectilinear WA is specially nice to have. In WA, I am looking to take pictures of sharks, mantas, napoleons... I know the 14mm is nice there, but I think I will be able to do more or less the same with the FE, but for the distortion, which I particularly like. These are the kind of pictures I mean: Any thoughts? Thanks!
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