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Everything posted by LyN

  1. Well, with the Canon, if I am not wrong, you can onlu shoot TTL in automatic modes, not in manual. So, if you shoot Av,TV or P modes, you can use S-TTL. To use S-TTL you need to set the mode to S-TTL (or S-TTL Low por macro), set the ACS to on (lower right button out) and set the power to 12 o'clock (upper right dial). Then, you will be able to fine tune the strobe power with the power dial (less power to the left, more power to the right). In manual camera mode (or to shoot manual in any other mode) you should set the mode dial to M or FULL, and then set the power with the power dial (from 9 o'clock, minimum power). In this mode, the ACS should be off (lower right button pushed). In manual camera mode you can try a kind of automatic strobe power using the Auto mode in the strobes. In that mode, you should set the mode dial to Auto (obviously) and set the aperture you are using in the camera with the power dial (ISO 100). The strobe senses the reflected light and adjusts power. BTW, I have just remembered there's good info in this Reef Photo article. Hope it helps.
  2. A thicker diffuser could be a good choice. I know for other strobes Inon does a -1.5 diffuser... not for the Z22? Another option is to build a -2 or -2.5 diffuser for the strobe yourself. if you already own one diffuser, building a new DIY thicker one should not be a big problem...
  3. I don't think the Ike125 or S&S110 will be any better that the Z240 in terms of power of coverage - in fact they might be worse. The only advantage would be for the Ike in WA in terms of color, but IMO not enough to justify the change. If you want better than that, you will have to spend more...
  4. Wow! I thought I had just said that they do not help... They add in-water weight (a bit), so they do not help, in fact. They don't make things much worse either, which I haven't said... B) Anyway: if you just add the Inon buoyancy element (just for Inon and ULCS arms) you more than compensate for the strobe's in-water weight, which I do use, in fact.
  5. Have you seen that? I've found it at a Japanese online shop. Sea&Sea announced some new housings for 2008 at DEMA show. The metal housong for Canon G9 MDX-G9 M DX meaning machine product and this housing is made from Alminum block by machine tool. TTL converter is installed in the body and you can use i-TTL with Sea&Sea YS-110 or else and wet cable connection. The target release date is Jan.2008. the price has not been announced yet.but it is around 140,000yen Some pictures: It seems it has something similar to a M67 port. I hope so. I think it's a better solution that a port for Sea&Sea lenses. I cannot see ports for strobe fibers, but a Nikonos electrical connection is ok. Anyway, price seems a bit high, specially because the Ike housing seems quite satisfactory and cheaper.
  6. The Inons do not help, being so small they add concentrated weight to the rig. I can confirm the Ike has excelent buoyancy. With one Inon, I can easily handle the camera with one hand when taking a shot, something that was not possible with my old C-5050Z plus PT-015 and same Inon rig. However, the size is a negative point if you do something more than static reef diving, but IMO this is inherent to a DSLR underwater rig.
  7. Perhaps you might also consider an inflatable one, like a small pool for babies...
  8. Well... I bought 50cm of pipe (enough for 5 shades ar least), and bolts and protectors for another 5. It all added to less that 20€ (less that $30 today). So, it's about $6 per shade. Yes, it's less that the original one... It has an internal diameter of about 23cm - 9", but it ought to be 21,8cm - 8,5" to better fit the 8" dome. Anyway, it works, although perhaps the space between the shade and the dome does not look so nice. In fact, after having built the shade, I've been told that it's not adequate for a 10mm FE like the Tokina one (because of vignetting), which I have ordered. I would have felt a bit stupid buying the shade and then leaving it at home. Now, if vignetting occurs, I can build a new one for the FE. In fact, it takes me less than two hours to build it once I know the adequate dimensions.
  9. I've recently moved from a compact camera rig to a DSLR. One of my biggest concerns was the apparent difficulty of using the viewfinder compared to the LCD. But I have to say that in my case I got used to it immediately. It felt so natural from the first shot that I literally forgot the LCD screen on my first dive with the camera.
  10. Thank you all! You've addressed my main concerns. I will take a look at the macro post (I'm sure t's worth it) but I think I have nearly made up my mind: I will look for a MC7 1.4x Kenko converter and give it a try.
  11. I have finally managed to get somewhere with this DIY project. The first is how the shade looks in the housing (in the picture, it wasn't still finished), then the finished shade and the detail of how it fixes to the dome. Ok! So now what I need is a new neoprene cover... ;-)
  12. I am thinking about getting a 2x teleconverter for my nikkor 60mm to be able to add more space between the subject and the camera in macro. In fact, I was considering Kenko teleconverters, but do not really know if the MC7 would be adequate or if I sohuld go for the DG 300 Pro version. Would I be able to go further that 1:1 magnification or do I need a diopter for that? Anyone has had any experience with them? Any recommendations? Even of the recommendation is not to use a teleconverter...
  13. Before having my first DLSR housing, I considered Ikelite to be a budget housing, which kind of made me believe it was the cheapy and not so good one. However, now I've got my first DSLR rig, based on an Ikelite housing... I must admit I find it to be easy to handle underwater. Buttons are easy to use and have feel enough to know what you're doing (like when half pressing the trigger button). I've heard a lot of talking about viewers, but I have no problems to use the one in this housing. And I still like to see what happens inside it, which helped me to gain confidence with this new housing! However, I must admint I haven't used any other housing Besides this, if I were to consider another housing for a 400D, I would take a look at the Seatool one...
  14. I have gone through the same kind of small flood with an Ike housing and the 8" dome port. In my case the problem was that the low profile latches used with the dome were not tightened enough. You need to tighen the screws until the port is not allowed to move more than about 1mm at the edges. If the port is allowed to move more than that, there's a position in which the o-ring is not sealing the port correctly and allows water to enter. Check this out before the pool tests, and then try to move (not rotate) the port underwater to make sure it seals properly.
  15. I use my D70s/Inon Z240 at any speed, but I do not have TTL circuitry and I am using a 2 pin cable, so the camera is not aware of the strobe. Can you switch off the TTL circuitry? That could do the trick. Or even use a 2 pin cable when you shoot wide angle. Anyway, why would you use TTL on wide angle?
  16. I have used them for strobes and focus light. I even used a 'Y' piece to hold a strobe and a focus light on the same arm. I've found that putting a 1/2" arm inside the 3/4" arm, covered on a thin tube of latex to avoid noises and movement makes the arm quite stiffer. This is the 'Y' piece: Something like this:
  17. Yes Aron, you're right. Strictly speaking. However, I am not planning to copy Ike's design exactly. I am just looking for some measurements not to start from null. In fact, my idea was to build different shades for the different lens I will be using. For example, my Sigma 14mm just gets too much flare inside, so I want the biggest shade possible, which is not the same as the ike shade measurements for sure. A Tokina 10-17 will shurely need a smaller shade, and a 17-70 may cope with a bigger one. Anyway, it seems that this subject is getting controversial, which was not the intention at all. So sorry.
  18. Well... you must understand. Although I am not an expert, I like DIY projects. Don't tell anybody, but this is kind of excuse for a simple DIY project. The DIY neoprene cover project is waiting on the line... I have considered R&D on the dome (which is no lens) and that is the reason why I bought it. However, I don't think there is so much R&D on the shade itself. Anyway, if there is, my shade will be crap, so I may end up buying the Ikelite one after having had a good time in my unsuccesful project. But then, this is what DIY projects are all about, isn't it?
  19. Please, if you own this shade, could you just read this? I am in need of a lillte bit of help for a modest DYI project... Thanks!
  20. Hi! as I think the Ikelite shade for the 8" is waaaaay too expensive for a piece of plastic, I am planning to build one by myself on a piece of delrin (or similar). But: to easy the trip, I would be very grateful if someone owning the shade could help me taking some measures... being L1, L2 and L3 measured on the arch. Some pictures of how the shade rests on the dome would also be of great help. Thanks!
  21. Take a look here. I think you'll find what you're looking for. Perhaps it's a bit late anyway...
  22. I am trying to contact you but I am not being successful. Please, contact me when you can.
  23. I think the Inon Z240 is very similar in specs. Not an option?
  24. Hi, I am sarting my tests with my brand new Inon Z240 strobe (which I guess works in the same way as de D2000Wn) and my Oly C-5050Z camera. In S-TTL everything is easy and working. But... what about manual mode? If I use the slave strobe setting on the camera and I disable the preflash cancel circuit, everything is fine. I dial in the desired strobe power, and it flashes at the same time as the slave flash. But if I use the normal strobe setting on the camera (preflash and main flash) and I enable the preflash cancel circuit... the strobe still mimics the preflash!!! Shouldn't it ignore the preflash and the fire with the dialed power sincronized with the main flash? I guess this is what it should do to be usable on a camera without slave setting, isn't it? Am I getting something wrong?
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