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Moreover, in macro you may expect it to work without cable, but in wide angle you cannot be sure there will be enough light reflection to make it fire the strobe. So you'd better use a cable.

Yo may want to take a look at the Great Battery Shootout or at Green Batteries before deciding, but after browsing through this information my conclusion was that Maha chargers are at least among the best and that any well known brand NiMH battery is ok.

All is said. I don't mind if it's the first or second version, although I prefer second cause its smaller. Please, if anyone is interested, email me. Regards, Luis.

Same problem. Any help would be appreciated!

Yes it's possible. I use 2 x 8 diopter lenses to take macro shots. They are just land lenses that I use underwater with quite good results. The issues here are focusing and DOF. Focusing becames quite tricky, as the camera to subject distance at which the camera is able to focus is rather narrow. And DOF becomes extremely short, so were you focus the shot is critical to have acceptable results. Besides those issues (which can both be overcome with practice) I cannot think of more drawbacks.

Then it's clear. There is too much risk involved in trying the Inon with the Sea&Sea 4 pin cord. But I have buddies using Z220s with 5-pin DA-IRs without problems, so I guess in this setup it works. As I also own a YS60TTL/S and a DA-IR-S, the right solution will be the T connector from N & S to S, to be able to connect the Sea&Sea and the Inon to the DA. Is that right? I will wait for your news!

Well, I have been reading around and asking some questions to Inon, and I think I may have the answer. I post it here because I think it may be useful to someone, who knows. It seems that the Inons circuitry is not of the DUO kind, which means it is only prepared to understand a real Nikonos TTL signal. There are some differences between the signals from a Nikonos or a Sea&Sea port and the Inons are not prepared to be connected to Sea&Sea ports, although physically the connection is possible. I have also found that it is possible to build and adapter to convert a Sea&Sea signal to Nikonos, and I think that Mike Finger (Mike Dive) knows how to do it. In fact I am waiting an answer from him to confirm he can build an ad hoc solution for that issue! If there is some interest, I will post here the final answer.

Craig, if I am not wrong, the Sea&Sea cord S has a 5 pin connector for the strobe head and a 4 pin connector to connect to the camera, as Sea&Sea DUO strobes can use both, the N cord or the S cord, depending on the port of the housing/camera/adapter. So I think I may physically connect the Sea & Sea S cable to the strobe (by the 5 pin end of the cord) and to the S Adapter (by using the 4 pin end of the cord). But what I do not know is if the circuitry on the Inons is compatible with a Sea & Sea port on the host. I think THIS is the issue.

I am planning tu buy the new Z240 strobe for Inon, but as today, I have a Matthias Heinrichs Digital Adapter with a Sea&Sea 4 pin port. <_< As the 5-pin Sea&Sea sync cord N can be used to connect Inon strobes to Nikonos ports (just as with Sea&Sea strobes) I was wondering if a Sea&Sea sync cord S (4 pin) could be used to connect the strobe to a Sea&Sea port. I already know that the S cable can be phisically connected to the strobe, but I don't know if the strobe will work with this configuration. Does anyone know anithing about it?

Why don't you consider the Inon Z220? I think it's a capable strobe, at least comparable to the Ike, and you have the same problem/solution when connecting them to the PT-020. You may use them manually or TTL with Matthias adapter. The Inon is much smaller than the Ike, it also has focus light (which can be operated through the adapter) and uses AA cells (that may be NiMH rechageable cells, of course). Has good recylce time, coverage, power... Oh! I think it may even be cheaper if bought in Japan!

Yes! It works! Let me show you a couple of examples of pictures taken with a +8 dipoter lens: I believe you can appreciate there's no aberration or distortion due to the lens at all. And yes, I mount them as wet lenses. In fact, the space between the housing and the lens should be filled with water. Look for them in eBay. You'll find quite a lot of them arround there.

I have been using +4, +8 and +10 diopter lenses with a PT-015 Olympus housing (67mm thread) without any problems. The lenses I use are common land photography close-up lenses but, as they are made of just one element, there's no problem at all when using them underwater. Just clean them adequately after using them. I have bought my lenses through eBay. If you look there, I am more than sure that you will find any close-up lens with 58mm thread that you may need. And prices are ok. Moreover, as you are only using the center of the lens (the lens is much bigger that the camera lens) no aberrations can be appreciated.

Dan, I have been trying one technique I have heard of in the net, but just on land. I use a Pringles cap on the lens to manually set WB, and it works!! I still have to try that underwater, but a Pringles can is cheap, so you could try it before I will be able. Bye!

IMO there shouldn't be any water between o-rings. Precisely, double o-rings are there to double-prevent flooding. So, in your case, the second o-ring has saved your camera. Even if you are very careful with the o-rings I would take a look not only at the o-ring, but also at the case. Any scratch may be causing the water entrance. Or perhaps you need to replace the o-ring by a new one.

Hi guys! I am new in the wetpixel forum. Let's see if I can add or take somethin' from it!! I hope so!! :wink: I am just an amateur photographer. I take my camera with me underwater because I just enjoy diving more that way. But for some reason my equipment is getting more and more bulky day to day... But let me ask my first question to you all: I am a bit frustrated with the macro capabilities of my camera, not only the slow focus but also the magnifying power of its lens. This is why I have thought of close-up filters. Yes, I know I could have chosen a macro lens, but the difference is 300€ to 43€, so I decided to give the filters a try. I have chosen 67mm threaded filters of x1, x2, x4 and x8. Does anyone have any experience with a similar set-up? Do you know which problems I may face? Focusing problems perhaps? Thanks for any comment!