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Davide DB

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Everything posted by Davide DB

  1. So you don't use Firefox or Chrome? Or you feel they are buggy or incomplete? The fact that a product is incomplete or buggy has nothing to do with open source. it's true the contrary: it happens that a lot of paid products are incomplete and buggy. Customers are threated as guinea pigs or, if you prefer, beta testers. By the way Wetpixel web site is running on Apache/2.2.3 (CentOS) which happen to be a full open source server. http://uptime.netcraft.com/up/graph?site=wetpixel.com I can live with it.
  2. Hi Nick, Water is pouring in the valley from several undergorund springs which formed a couple of bourns. In the midlle age two mills and a paint factory were powered by these creeks. Then during the mid 60s they built a small barrier to create a lake as a water supply for the surrounding lands; today it is also used to supply power to an hydroelectric station. The lake is private owned. You arrange a dive for a small fee and usually you get a dive + lunch in a nearby restaurant. According to someone (as me ) the lunch is better than the dive: we are in a part of Italy famous for wild sheep-grazing http://bit.ly/JWwWDO
  3. Absolutely wrong. Without open source software you would not be able to write you message here. 95% of the Internet IT infrastructure is based on open source software.
  4. Same music here Once you are used to throw your files at the timeline there's no way to go back to transcoding era.
  5. Guys relax, I know who is the author and I know that clothes don't make the man. It's just a joke for a cover that is objectively one of the ugliest I've seen Cheers
  6. I hope the videographer is better than the cover graphic designer
  7. Hi, How did you encode the video? It seems suffering from a poor bitrate or not the optimal parameters for vimeo Cheers
  8. Nice report. Would be nice knowing which GH2 settings were used. Bye Edit: On Personal View someone wrote that the presenter said "Quantum B" so probably the quantum v9b (130Mb) http://personal-view.com/talks/discussion/...8#Comment_62888 Edit2: The guy who prepared the camera replied:
  9. Hi Simon, For what Edius color grading features you can take a look a these 5 tutorials. Despite of the NLE they are one of the best I saw on the net. Everything is made with the default filters: YUV curve, Three Way Color Correction, Mask and Crominance. We all descend from them http://vimeo.com/27292117 5 lessons starting from very simple tasks to difficult ones Then 3 tutorial on keys and transparency http://vimeo.com/30078836 All lessons were recorded on a laptop computer, some files are RED Epic raw files that were downloaded from reduser.com and transcoded directly from R3D to 3k 10bit HQX using VirtualDub. Yes I know that Red files are not managed real time, some other things are missing but would be nice trying to stick with features that 90% of people need. Otherwise everything is a crap! There's always something better than.... PS I tried CS6 but you get a similar speed only with an expensive CUDA GPU onboard!
  10. Edius 6.x for sure. I'm using it as Wagsy. I know that also TMPGEnc uses QS also if it's not a proper NLE
  11. Despite having a Ivy Bridge or a Sandy Bridge Proc/MB you NLE must support the Quick Sync feature. As said before also the Sandy Bridge platform has QS capabilities but the NLE must explicitly support this technology. The HD4000 GPU inside the new I7 Ivy Bridge is still an entry level GPU compared to many NVidia and ATI cards but the Quick Sync makes the difference. From what I see googling around Premiere CS6 still have to incorporate QS technology. Maybe using the Intel plugin something changes: http://forums.adobe.com/message/3666908 Same story for FCP and Vegas. BTW I read that Philip Bloom (he is a Mac guy) switched from FCP to Premiere... Full story here: http://philipbloom.net/2012/05/08/cs6/ Bye
  12. Same method here following the same advice of HDVDiver and this thread: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...mp;#entry308675 I miss a couple of stickers and I'm a pro
  13. Same method here, justa dd a couple of stickers and you a pro
  14. Hi Giles, The lowfi version could be clearer on the phone but here the key point it's that a user should see a plain version through his pc/tablet and a lofi version while on the phone. When I receive a mail alert there is no link on a lofi version but only something like: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showt...view=getnewpost So it means that you have to load all the page with tons of advertising, images.. and then maybe be able to reach the lofi link at the page bottom. I'm not a Team Wetpixel member, what does it means? I tried the linear+ version but i did not notice anything different on my iphone and sony ericsson. Maybe. It depends on the board version you have. It does exactly what I wrote at the beginning. Having an Android/Iphone app it's another step. Not necessary at all if the board is capable to recognize a mobile client from http headers and switch the session to a "one column mobile theme". All the current CMS have this features as default. Anyway I see that the ip.board version you have it's quite old so the real problem it's the update. Also the web design is a little bit old fashioned It's a shame that a so large community is left with a product not on top of the situation. Bye
  15. Hi, I'm not asking tapatalk nor a dedicated smartphone app... but at least a mobile theme! Browsing the forums on a phone it's really a bad experience in 2012. I saw that Invision IP.Board has a mobile theme. Is there any chance to update the board version? I remember the board update was the reason to not add another subforum for mirrorless camera. Any news on this? Thank you in advance
  16. From my test yesterday, the 20mm seem to be pretty sharp with the fisheye dome. I did not notice vignetting. Unfortunately the pool had half of the lights off so I could not go over than F4. I was already at ISO 1000 and 1250. The lens has a minimum focus distance of 0.2m. With the dome underwater I got about 0.4m. I would like to test with my dome the Oly 12mm, a nice medium wide lens... Just out of curiosity. We always speak of acrylic domes. But the term acrylic is vague. Do you know what is the real material for the Nauticam dome? Is it PMMA AKA Plexiglass, Perspex... or Polycarbonate? Bye
  17. Just tried in the pool the Lumix 20mm inside the Nauticam 4.3" dome made for the fisheye 8mm. It works! You realize the virtual image focus panning in/out of the water. Here it is: [vimeohd]41951647[/vimeohd]
  18. Hi Stargost. I reply here where we are IT with lights Yes they are really great lights but still very expensive for a hand-made product. At the same price I get the Luna. IMHO currently the best compromise price/features are the mangrove. They are really cheap and I've read only very positive feedbacks. Their only flaw is the weight and maybe the dimension. I tried two of them on my setup and they are really huge and difficult to compensate. They have a field of about 110° so they should be capable to cover a 8mm. With the 7-14 there's no problem. I don't know if two or three SOLA could fill the 7-14mm. This video is shoot with two mangrove and a Canon 5D Mk2 DSLR with a Sigma 15mm fisheye. So the FOV it's the same. It struggle a little bit covering the field but it's nearly there.... [vimeohd]35833967[/vimeohd] At the last Eudi Show in Milan I had the opportunity to see the new Fix Aquavolt 3500. They are really cute. They should be out shortly. Here some photos: They should cost less than the SOLA 4000. Here some characteristics: *depth rate 100m *size φ 65.5mm × 152.6mm *weight on land 498g(included battery) *weight in the water 295g(included battery) *lamp 1.2w high intensity LED 24pcs *3500lumens *light angle 110° *colour temp 6500~7000K *work on land Not allowed *working hour 90mins with full power *charging time 3 hours *capacity of the battery 3100mAh
  19. It seems like I opened Pandora's vase For AF I agree with Drew (Sometimes it happens ). I can speak only for GH2 because it's the only DSRL I used underwater. Forgetting the AFC (Continuous AF) while in AFS (Single AF) you can choose different modes: 23 point area focusing: Up to 23 points for each AF area can be focused. This is effective when the subject is not in the centre of the screen. This is the mode I was using and it was deceived from the huge amount of dust inside the dome... The 23 AF areas can be divided into 9 areas and the area to be focused can be set. It's a little tricky but it can be made through the touch screen or the Quick menu button and rear dial (available on the housing). 1-area-focusing: The camera focuses on the subject in the AF area on the screen. When the subject is not in the centre of the composition, you can bring the subject into the AF area, fix the focus by pressing the shutter button halfway, then move the camera to the composition you want with the shutter button pressed halfway, and then take the shot. Maybe, once the focus is fixed it's better pressing the Lock AF and then start shooting. Position and size of the AF area can be changed using the touch screen (it's not our case ) or through the housing dedicated Quick Button. It can be changed to 4 different sizes and can be moved with the cursor button. Maybe next time I will use the 1-area-focusing with a medium size. Hence the quick one button focus lock function is there. AF tracking mode. I used it a couple of times on land just for fun. Basically you touch a subject on the screen or you place the subject in the AF tracking frame, and press the shutter button halfway to lock the subject. Focus will keep on following the subject even if it moves. I don't know if this is available on other DSRL and I don't know how effective it is. The "hack" proposed by HDVDiver it's very interesting. The "Live-view magnified focus assist" function he mention it's the same Drew was referring to. Using manual focus as you move the gear the camera automagically displays magnified view of the subject. You can change the magnification and the zoom area. Pressing the shutter button halfway the live-view reverts to whole image. Regarding the dome polishing techniques you gave me really bad news I read countless threads on wetpixel about scratch removal and I thought that using the right product the dome could return brand new. On another forum I read of people using this Arexons cream made for car painting scratch removal. They insist that works perfectly but I absolutely believe on your experiences here. So until the scratches become visible it's better do not touch it then eventually bite the bullet and use the micromesh/novus paste. BTW someone pointed me this thread: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=46252 And I realized that some of my small scratches are located where the Nauticam neoprene cover sewings touch the dome. I need to replace it with something rigid or just applying a microfiber cloth in the inner part. Bye PS Going OT with a noob question... What's happen using a medium lens as the Lumix 20mm (40mm in 35mm format) with the 4.3" dome made for the 8mm? I read that with a dome, the camera doesn't focus on the real subject but it focuses on a virtual image created by the dome. If the 20mm lens it's capable of focusing on this virtual image should I get image distortion anyway? The minimum focus distance of this lens is 0.2m
  20. I think the focus gear is available only for the Leica 45mm macro. This table is more clear: http://www.nauticam.com.au/products/housin...ctor/index.html Bye
  21. Hi Nick, I have the knob on the left but it's for the zoom gear if you have the Lumix 7-14mm or the Oly 9-18mm or acting as manual focus for the Leica macro lens. An illustration is better than thousand words It's the huge knob up the red lock botton. Really I could not imagine a better design for a so small camera and housing. As other Nauticam products it's a mechanical engineering masterpiece. The housing it's very small: I try to answer to all the others kind people here who replied to my questions... I never used the continuos AF. I know that is absolutely useless. I use the single AF. I just half press the shutter button to pre-focus. In my previous test it worked perfectly. Also at 80m deep without light the focus is instantaneous. At the beginning, reading so many comments on AF problem I could not believe how fast and accurate it was. During the dive I was misleaded from the display. Everything seemed perfectly focused. Prior to shoot toward the blue I pre-focused at some object at a couple of meter in front of me and then using F11 or F13 I thought that everything was ok. I also played some clip in camera during the dive. Only at home I realized the mess Probably If I was shooting photos I would have realized it immediately. You can enlarge automatically the photo just after the shot. But with video you cannot enlarge it in camera (Well, I guess. I'll check it at home ) Later, looking at my dome I realized that the inner part was completely covered by dust. It was my fault and the reason it's another story I have some little scratch on the external part but its' really something you can see just observing it toward a strong light. I guess that once in water it shouldn't be visible. The dive was in a natural resurgence. While entering in the water I had to pass through a thick layer of death green algae. Probably the dome was not well cleaned and it kept some grease and water bubbles. Shooting toward the sun and surface I amplified the problem. Despite of this inconvenience I was really impressed for the nearly zero banding on the blue water and green algae. I used a magic filter and it was great! I manual white balanced the shots at different depth. At the beginning I tried to WB against the white tanks of my buddy but the tanks were so shining under the sun that the camera refused to WB saying "image too bright to WB" So I WB against the gray mud of the lake obtaining a nice blue tone. Except for being out of focus most of the clips did not need color grading at all (IMHO). I hope to test it again in that lake asap. In the meantime on Thursday I will go in a pool to experiment. I do not pretend to obtain the same results as my buddy with the large Underwave/Igloo glass dome I read many threads on acrylic dome cleaning but there are a lot of different opinions. Could you suggest me a good method for a normal cleaning of my Nauticam dome? If I would try to remove that few nearly invisible scratches which product I could safely use. They aren't deep scratches. I think that the same neoprene nauticam cover cause some little marks on the dome. Thank you all.
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