kannjihyun

Could you please let me know more info about this program? Has anyone traded theirs with the newer model yet?

Thanks Alex, I'm thinking of getting Nauticam as well.

Hi there, I'm kind of interested in using this 4" Zen dome for the Canon 8-15 fisheye. However, the dome seems small. I wonder if it's possible to add a zoom gear to provide zoom functionality to the lens? Cheers, Kann

Exactly, changing to mode using dial on my left thumb is also my current solution as well. It is just that I always confuse my self whether I should turn the wheel clockwise or anti-clockwise to enter the mode. Having some button that just trigger the manual video functionality immediately would be a better solution for me. I do not mind configuring the exposure setting after changing into mode, though. By the way, do you guys find the mode switching wheel a bit too stiff? Sometime, it's too hard that I had to remove my right hand from the grip just for turning the wheel. Not sure if the left thumb is too weak or the wheel is too stiff here... ;(

Hi all, I just switched from Canon 7D to Oly OMD. Really like the versatility of the camera, but also got some glitches from my previous experiences with it as well. The housing I own is Nauticam. The problem is that, when I want to switch from shooting stills to video mode, I just push the recording button. This would trigger the video recording function of the camera; however, the problem is that the aperture & shutter speed settings do not follow into the video mode. More specifically, It looks like pushing the video recording button would record the video using the "P" mode with average exposure metering. For example, I always shoot stills with underexposed ambient so the subject would be emphasize and lit by strobes, but when I hit the recording mode, the water suddenly become much lighter blue with a very pale subject. For now, the only way for me to manually configure the exposure of the video is to turn the dial wheel of the camera to its designate video capturing mode, which is a bit troublesome. Is there an easier way to switch from shooting stills to video capturing while retaining the setting from 'M' mode of the camera? By the way, here is the footage of a thresher shark taken with OMD using the P? mode.

Thanks for such great info guys. : )

So... There's no need to take them off the arms after use?

Hi all, I've never used arm floats before and just ordered a few. These floats seem like a harden incompressible form, but they also seem to be able to loss shape after many uses as well. I wonder how you guys treat these float arms after your trip? Do you leave them on your strobe arms? Or do you remove and dry them somewhere else?

It works now. Thank you so much!

I did set it to direct function. Somehow those > and v key are still greyed out... ;(

Hi, The [>] Function button of my camera is grey out in movie mode, thus it cannot be set to WB or ISO setting. Do you know how to fix this?

Hi All, I am planing to order a monitor calibrator (Spyder 4). However, I've got a question about monitor calibration and monitor's brightness as well. For example, the colors on my Macbook Pro is more vibrant when the brightness is set at the highest. There is also an ambient sensor that automatically adjusts the brightness of the screen depending on the ambient light of your workplace. Wouldn't this make the monitor calibration useless since the brightness is dynamically changed from time to time? How do you guys do in this kind of situation? Cheers,

Hi Ryan, Thanks for your reply! So... The 20mm extension dome will be working fine as well? Why would the 30mm work better then the 20mm?

I noticed that Nauticam hasn't updated Canon's port chart for the newly released 8-15 fisheye lens yet. I'm using Tokina with 8.5" dome + 20mm extension ring now. Do you think this same port set would work with the Canon 8-15 fisheye?

The 8.5" dome is nice, but it's also a nightmare to pack. Too fragile for the checked baggage, but also too bulky for your carry-on…