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meltdownman last won the day on January 4 2013

meltdownman had the most liked content!

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About meltdownman

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  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    5D M II, Canon S95
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica, Recsea
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea and Sea 110 Alpha
  • Accessories
    ULCS Strobe Arms

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  1. For Sale Canon Power Shot S95 with Recsea Housing Includes the following items: Extra Batteries Extra Charger Carrying Case Card Card Carrying Case S95 Manual S95 Cheat Sheet Flexible stand RecSea Housing Spare O-ring Macro Lens port 3 Fiber Optic cables Lubricant Recsea manual Port Cover $200 Items Not sold separately Shipping US only Paypal only
  2. And here are several others on youtube https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=polishing+scratches+out+of+a+dome+port
  3. Here is an old video of someone removing the scratches on the outside. Perhaps this will help.
  4. We have somewhat of hard water and for the glasses I soak them in white vinegar overnight. Works good.
  5. I would first send the pic to the manufacturer and ask them how to clean it and where the coating came from. Does the glass have a non reflective coating added to it? I have an Aquatic dome and would be interested in finding out both questions. The Meltdownman
  6. I have an Aquatica 5D MII uw housing. The problem I have is the engagement of the rubber wheels that engage the dials. The rubber wheels in the housing tend to slip and/or not engage the camera controls properly. I wish there was a way to replace the rubber wheels in the uw housing with something that more firmly engages the dials and switches on the camera. This may be a combination of making a piece that goes over the camera dials (e.g. mode dial) and also replaces the uw housing rubber wheel that engages the these dials and switches. The camera dials can be tough to turn some times and the rubber wheels tend to slip/wear out over time. The Meltdownman
  7. Questions: 1) Does any know if there are back fits for the Olympus UW Housing for the OMD E-M1 MK II? I like the housing for quick port changes but would like to have a vacuum system installed. 2) For those who have a OMD E-M1 MK II what strobes are you using and are you using optical or electrical TTL with your housing? Any problems? 3) For those who have an OMD E-M1 MK II what are arms and float systems are you using for getting your system neutrally buoyant? The Meltdownman
  8. Well, I have an Aquatica for my Canon 5D Mark II. If you are in the actual business of photography it pays to have the best port. I have some small scratches on my acrylic port that I have been using for several years and they don't affect the image at all so yours must be pretty deep. I have used a soft cover that I can quickly release to protect it. It takes an additional second or two but it has spared me the issues you have encountered. In a place like Truk I wouldn't have a problem because most of the shots would have been somewhat staged (i.e. had time to set up the shot) and thus not an issue. A place like Palau where pelagics come and go quickly it can be different story unless you are hanging out at a place like Blue Corner and strapped in due to currents with the big fish coming and going. I only get two to three weeks of diving a year so I can't compare what your time under water is but like I said I haven't had the small scratches affect the photos. The acrylic dome tends to cause the dome side to float up and was putting some stress on my wrists until I added weight in a funky kind of arrangement set up by the folks at Cathy Church's dive center. It's a pain but it works. With glass you don't need as much weight if at all but then the glass requires somewhat more float support. The one thing when diving I have done is to have the camera in my right hand with neutral buoyancy and pull the unit behind me to somewhat protect it also (while in more open spaces). The strobe are tucked in tight and easy to flare out when I do this to save a little time. It also cuts down on the drag. In tight spaces I have the unit in front of me since I sometimes use the focusing lights to act as a flashlight as I travel through wrecks or caverns. It gives me better control when the unit is neutral in my opinion. I did have a smaller dome port on my Canon S95 housing and it was made of glass. It scratched to the point it was useless so to use it again would mean buying another. I have bought a second housing and ports on ebay and wet pixel at great prices. You can a lot of times get steep discounts but you have to set the both sites up to flag you when the dome ports pop up on the radar screen because they will go fast. Be patient if this is your strategy since they are not always on sale. The Meltdownman
  9. Well you probably know this but you have to separate the problem: the strobe, fiber optic cables, housing or the camera. If you are with other divers or near a dive shop see if you can test your strobes on another system someone has. The same goes with the camera. With all the divers and cameras out there someone should be able to help you troubleshoot using their system. Did you try swapping the batteries from the good working strobe to the one that wasn't? It may be that your charger for the batteries is not charging correctly and everything is else is okay. Check the pop up flash and see if it is being interfered with inside the housing. Also, if the flash on your camera is set at the lowest setting to save on the camera battery, try boosting it to maximum to see if it works while still in the housing. It's a simple quick check that will at least eliminate that potential problem. The Meltdownman
  10. Besides costs, If you are going to use the TTL function of a Canon camera for a 5D MII (which I have) you need to purchase a converter ($$$) whereas a 7D you can use the pop up flash on the camera inside the housing and use fiber optics. There is less chance of flooding the additional electronics of the converter and cable and the optics seem pretty reliable from everyone that I have seen using them on various cameras out there. If you use a 7D with its pop up flash your battery life will not be as long - just set the output to minimum however and your battery life will be fine. I have used by 5D MII with an Aquatica Housing and have been able to shoot for several days without removing the camera from the housing because I don't have a flash going and I shoot mostly manual now that I have more experience. The TTL comes in handy when you need to get off a quick shot. The housings for a 7D are smaller, lighter and with no TTL converter there is more room in your bag with less chance of exceeding weight limits on airlines. The 5D is a bit better for low light conditions over the 7D but I still find that I need focusing lights to help with the focus with the 5D MII. This includes those days that are overcast vice bright sunny days. This is from my personal experience with my 5D MII. I have not taken my 7D underwater but have discussed this and read up on the 7D before my purchase of the 5D MII for underwater use. Both the 7D and the 5D MII use the same lenses so the quality is there for both. Hope that helps. The Meltdownman
  11. Bjorn, Check this thread out and see if it help: http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=46968 http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52815 Have you looked at your dive destination to see if there are any dealers there in Indo? You might get them to mail a tube to your dive location before you get there. Stephen
  12. In my Canon 5D MII I have an internal battery that many people don't realize exists. If you remove that and reinstall the battery it may reset your shutter count. I don't know if Nikon frowns on it from the standpoint you won't have an accurate count for the purposes of reaching the shutter lifetime limit. If they replaced the shutter mechanisim I don't see a problem with it but if you are selling it to another person they might not be happy with the fact that you reset the count. I would personally like to know the count. If the camera was overhauled you should include the maintenance that was done on it to both give an accurate history and show that you really are caring for your camera. Just a thought.
  13. You might try PB 2000. However, the key is not to get the oil in the o-rings if you can avoid it so you might apply it via a q-tip and let it soak and let it do its job. However, if you plan on replacing all the o-rings and you get some oil on them just make sure there is no remaining residue anywhere since it will cause the ruber to deteriorate over time. This stuff works good. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Blaster-Chemical-11-oz-penetrating-catalyst/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=515413 The Meltdownman
  14. I forgot to add that I am including the Aquatica Port Extension 18452 ($~200) and a spare main o-ring to this package neither of which have ever been used.
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