Kengar

Ultimately, I went with the Olympus kit based on value. Thanks for the replies. Ken

This request for advice pertains to general land use. I hope it's welcome here. (I AM a diver; just haven't invested in housing/strobes yet.) I am torn between purchasing Nikon D70/D70s and Olympus EVolt 500. Features I've picked up on via research so far: I like the idea of the Oly supersonic wave dust cleaner, which Nikon doesn't have. (I would prefer not to have to "Photoshop out" dust marks in my photos.) Nikon has five AF points, compared to "just" three for Oly, which suggests (based on other thread I saw here) that the Nikon would autofocus faster. I've seen negative commentary (dpreview) re viewfinder in Oly being like looking through a tunnel. Might be problem when I eventually take camera wet. I don't know yet how the Nikon viewfinder stacks up. Oly has 8 MP, vs. "just" 6 MP for Nikon. (I'd like to make this a hobby where I can create some artwork worthy of 11 x 17 blowups at some point.) Nikon has status LCD in addition to view LCD; Oly doesn't, requiring status info to be viewed on power-consuming large view LCD. Oly is significantly less $, but I'm willing to spend more for overall better quality in the long run. I've been told that Nikon tends to have better lenses in general, and better range orflenses, but I'm just looking to get started right now with a decent "general" lens and one that gives me better telephoto capability than my current Oly 8080. Oly's 4:3 format is supposedly closer to most frame sizes than Nikon's 3:2. Butterflyphoto and B and H Photo both recommended Nikon in an instant over Oly (on basis of wider range of lenses and purported better quality of the Nikon lenses), but local cameral store (Penn Camera, in Washington, D.C.; two separate locations) recommended the Oly based on it being newer technology and based on the dust cleaning feature in particular. I've currently got an Oly 8080 fixed lens camera, but I'm not happy with the sharpness of the images. (This may be apples to oranges issue when considering the EVolt) Given these competing factors, I'm at a loss (and tossing and turning at 2:30 a.m. surfing the net trying to figure this out). (I've got large hands and have been advised by B'fly and/or B and H that Canon (e.g., Digital Rebel) would likely be too small to be comfortable, but I can check that out for myself if anyone thinks Canon beats the other two.) Thanks for any advice you might be able to provide. Ken

FS: Oly 8080 Package -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am selling my Oly 8080 in favor of more dive gear. I bought it in September of '04 and used it on one trip (topside only), so it's essentially in brand new condition. Included: Camera, with three batteries and hood for LCD screen and xD card that comes with camera (128 or 256 MB; don't recall) Olympus Wide Angle Lens and Adapter Tube Set of three high res filters (UV, Polarizing, Flourescent) Large Carrying Case Lexar High Speed (80x) 2 GB Compact Flash Card For links to pages showing the various items, please cross-link to here: http://www.scubaboard.com/t92655-fs--oly-8080-package.html $875 + shipping email if interested. kmfagin@yahoo.com, kmf@kmfagin.com

Thanks for the reply, Don. I'm not sure I follow what you're saying re keeping in mind re two exposurs. Are you referring to different different "sets" of parameters to keep in mind on any given shot? Thanks. Ken.

I'm a total newbie to photography in general, never having done anything other than land-based point-and-shoot automatic 35 mm compact blah blah blah shooting. To edumacate myself, I've picked up a couple books on basic photography -- one being a film-based photography book, the other being Digital Photography for Dummies. To what extent will the concepts in the film-based world carry over to digital domain. E.g., interplay between f stop, shutter speed, focal length, depth of field, film sensitivity, etc. Thanks.

Where can I get one? I will be taking vista pix with the camera so bought the WCON-08D lens, and figure I will want to use that UW, too. Thanks. Ken. (Now it's time to put this new interest aside for the night and go to bed.)

(I see I'm upgraded from Sea Star to Sea Nettle already. Woo Hoo! And I don't even get the new cameral 'till tomorrow! )

So what are the dollar amounts referring to when I check out the Ikelight website? Thanks for the reply, Ike.

Okay, I'm new here, and I know Ike is identified as a partner on this board, so I hope I don't step on any toes or offend anyone or violate any protocols. Here's my question. Why is it that Ikelight products (as is the case with respect to many products) can be had for a bit less at camera supply houses on the 'net than directly from Ikelight? For example, between the Oly 8080 Ikelight housing and complete DS125 strobe setup, I can save 300 - 350 dollars, depending on which vendor I use. Will Ikelight not service/warranty the product if I don't get it directly from them? Are the vendors (Adorama, B & H Photo) selling gray market goods? Thanks for your inut.

But you sell both, right? Given this drawback, why is "watching the strobe" more expensive? Also, if the strobe is not getting signal from the camera itself, how can that be called TTL? Is it TTL in the sense that the cameral shuts off the internal strobe when it's "had enough light," and that, in turn, shuts off the external strobe? Thanks much for the info. Ken.

I've seen complaints about excessive noise in what is being taken with Oly C-8080. Having just purchased a c-8080 as my first venture into anything other than point-and-shoot land picture-taking -- I won't even dain to refer to it as photography -- I was concerned by these complaints. What is this noise that's being referred to? How bad is it? Would it justify exchanging the camera for a C-5060 (and incurring the 10% restocking fee on camera and all camera-specific accessories)? Much obliged for any info. Ken

I've seen complaints about excessive noise in what is being taken with Oly C-8080. Having just purchased a c-8080 as my first venture into anything other than point-and-shoot land picture-taking -- I won't even dain to refer to it as photography -- I was concerned by these complaints. What is this noise that's being referred to? How bad is it? Would it justify exchanging the camera for a C-5060 (and incurring the 10% restocking fee on camera and all camera-specific accessories)? Much obliged for any info. Ken

Title says it all. I've seen the term "prosumer" used; what does it mean? Thank you. Ken

Got your reply to my other posting re Ike v. Oly. You've opened my eyes. Thank you very much! Ken

My eyes have been opened wide! Thank you!

I thought it was DSLR and Houshings (hence the slash), not housings FOR DSLR This was my first stop on research trail, then found more info. Should have looked further, first. You DID answer one question I had, which was whether the Oly housing allows TTL connection to Ike strobes or just its own strobe (TL-20, if I recall correctly). Thank you for the info. Ken.

I'm a totally newbie, doing some research here. I've purchased an Oly 8080 and have not yet decided on housing. I know the Ikelight housing permits a direct connection from the strobe to the housing with a TTL chord (I'm assuming that is what's referred to as a "synchro" setup, yes, no???), and I assume that is required since the housing does not permit the internal flash to pop up for a sensor-based setup to work. The Oly housing, on the other hand, does permit the internal flash to pop up, so it can use a setup where the strobe "watches" the internal flash, with the "watching" sensor connected to the strobe by a cable. I assume that is what is referred to as slaved TTL, yes?? no?? Two questions: Does the Oly housing permit the direct connection sort of setup, like the IkeLight Setup? I assume the slaved TTL approach (sensor watching the camera) is preferred, since the packages with it are more expensive than the direct connect (synchro) TTL configuration. If so, in what way is it better? Or am I wrong on that, and is direct connection (synchro) better route to go for a newbie?? Thanks for your help. Ken.

I'm a totally newbie, doing some research here. I've purchased an Oly 8080 and have not yet decided on housing. I know the Ikelight housing permits a direct connection from the strobe to the housing with a TTL chord (I'm assuming that is what's referred to as a "synchro" setup, yes, no???), and I assume that is required since the housing does not permit the internal flash to pop up for a sensor-based setup to work. The Oly housing, on the other hand, does permit the internal flash to pop up, so it can use a setup where the strobe "watches" the internal flash, with the "watching" sensor connected to the strobe by a cable. I assume that is what is referred to as slaved TTL, yes?? no?? Two questions: Does the Oly housing permit the direct connection sort of setup, like the IkeLight Setup? I assume the slaved TTL approach (sensor watching the camera) is preferred, since the packages with it are more expensive than the direct connect (synchro) TTL configuration. If so, in what way is it better? Or am I wrong on that, and is direct connection (synchro) better route to go for a newbie?? Thanks for your help. Ken.

Greetings, folks. I've never been anything but a point-and-shoot land photographer, with no UW photography experience at all. (I've been diving since '88.) Nevertheless, wishing to pick up a new hobby, I just bought an Olympus C8080 and am looking to get a housing for UW photography, too. I like the design of the Olumpus housing that is made for the camera, but the Ikelight housing is rated for 200 feet whereas the Oly housing is "only" rated to 130. A friend of mine who was working as a photo pro in Grand Cayman until the hurricane suggested that the Olympus housings tend to be better quality than the Ikelight housings. (He also suggested that problems with the Ikelight strobes are not uncommon.) Any comments? Suggestions? Advice? Thanks