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r4e last won the day on March 13

r4e had the most liked content!

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About r4e

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    Wolf Eel

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    Southern Finland

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon EOS 1DXIII, 1DIV, 5DIII, Sony MC50E
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica, Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2xKeldan 8X CRI95, Salvo 200W HMI, 2xNLS 300W LED, 3-5xNorthern Light Scuba 80W LED, Green Force various LED+HID
  • Accessories
    Keldan u/w color card, Nauticam WACP, various rigs, Ninja V in housing, DPV, vinegar for cleaning E/O connections

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  1. Hi John, The product code was originally 21314 and then changed to 921314. We have delivered the last from our stock.
  2. We have one of these rare items (9)21314 in stock. 240€ plus shipping from Finland to U.S. You will have to handle U.S. customs yourself. PM if you are interested.
  3. If you shoot video in only 8-bit color space, you just do not have the same vibrancy of colors than a proper stills picture has. However, this gap is diminishing when moving to video with 10-bit or more color resolution. But then your data amounts might grow a lot. With my Canon 1DXIII I am able to fill a 500GB (half a terabyte) card by shooting only 36 minutes of video at maximum quality. In practice and for most of the shots, I use far lower quality. The Canon colors are actually quite beautiful already at 10 bit Clog if you properly color balance and expose your shot before shooting. Related to your second question, the answer is any hybrid camera capable of both video and stills, but minimum 10 bit color space for video. Typically I would shoot either video or stills during a single dive because each shooting method does require a slightly different mind set. But whatever my choice for a particular dive is, I still might take occasional stills or videos if there is a suitable opportunity.
  4. A significant question is the shooting distance. If you use white fins on your own feet, will that white balancing match your actual shooting distance? I have noticed this problem because my white balance card is relatively small and I need to "white balance" it from a very short distance with my WACP wide angle lense. In ambient lighting the difference from actual shooting seems relatively small. But when using videolights, the perfect white balance at short distance does not match that of actual shooting distance. When shooting with videolights, the light has to travel from the lights to subject matter and back to the camera. If the subject matter is at say 2 meters distance, e.g. a ship wreck or other scenery,. the total light travel distance is 4 meters, which is significantly different from shooting a grey card at 0.2 meter distance. Thus the colors of subject matter will not be as vibrant. I like the idea of white or grey fins, but with a wide angle lense they will fill less than 5% of screen area. But, considering that a 130 degree wide angle lense will easily cover an area equivalent to a queensize bed, should I bring with me a queensized white sheet with me?? Ha ha. Obviously this gets more complicated when there is a combination of video light and ambient light. For single picture still photography this might be less of a problem because you might want to let the background to fade to blue or whatever is the dominant background color. But for shooting 3D underwater photogrammetry this is a problem because you would want to use true colors of the subject matter irrespective of the distance. Incidentally the Aquatica/Amphibico metallic white balance card has a prefabricated green/bluish color cast. This does slightly help in matching the final shooting distance for proper white balance. I have just recently learned to appreciate this.
  5. Here is an in-scale visualization of the Protrekker 450 with the NA1DXIII, WACP, 1DXIII and lense. It looks doable, if I remove one handle. For the air travel that is ok. Total weight about 14kg with laptop. Perhaps I'll take with me a plastic bag. If weight or size becomes a problem, I'll check in the empty backpack and carry my gear in a plastic bag;-) The Keldans will have to fit elsewhere, e.g. my coat pockets or carried by a friendly mule...
  6. Thanks for your tip, pbalves. I'll check ProTrekker BP450 model. If it stretches a bit, it might be sufficient. However the 25cm depth exceeds the allowance of half of the airlines I mentioned. Emptying anything significant from the bag might be a bit tricky for me. Yes there is the small 28mm lense, 0.26kg. But then the next item is the 1DX3 which is like a brick in size and will certainly not fit any pockets - perhaps I'll hang it on my neck. And the WACP is the size of a football... Besides I forgot to mention that I might have to stuff some Keldans in my pockets as well.
  7. I am hoping I could air travel inside Europe later this year, but I am facing a dilemma with the limitations of carry on luggage for my combo of NA-1DX3 and WACP even if I would transport the 1DX3 inside the housing: NA-1DX3 36(w)x23.5(h)x14.5(d) cm with handles, or, 26(w)x23.5(h)x14.5(d) cm w/o handles, weight 3.6kg Canon 1DX3 with battery: 1.44kg Canon 28mm f/2.8 IS USM: 0.26kg WACP diameter 19.5 cm, length 17.5 cm, weight 3.9kg Laptop 33x24x2cm, 1.84kg Lightest possible bag: 2kg Total weight: 13.04kg, total value: a bit more... Total size, put together: 32x26x23.5cm, without handles, without any bag yet. Or the housing and WACP separated from each other, but in the same bag: 45.5x23.5x17.5 ... 41x26x19.5cm plus bag. The challenge is to get the gear and bag to fit within the restrictions of the likely air companies I could use for my destinations: Air Baltic Economy: 55x40x23cm PLUS 40x30x10cm, total only 8kg (yikes), but with an additional 12€ total reaches 12kg British Airways: 1 handbag/laptop bag 40x30x15cm max 23kg (luxury!) PLUS 1 additional cabin bag 56x45x25cm max 23kg (more luxury), but the small print says "On busy flights, you may be asked to check in your additional cabin bag, so make sure you have no valuables packed in it". Actually most of the operators have similar text. Finnair carry on economy: 55x40x23cm PLUS small backpack/laptop bag/handbag 40x30x15cm. Total 8kg (useless). Iberia economy: 56x40x25cm PLUS 40x30x15cm Total 10kg "Because of limited capacity in the aircraft cabin, exceptionally on busy flights some carry-on baggage may be removed and stored in the hold at no extra cost. If your carry-on baggage is larger than standard it will be placed in the hold and you may have to pay an additional charge." KLM economy 55x35x25cm PLUS 40x30x15cm, total 12kg. But they warn that the bigger bag might go into the luggage hold... Lufthansa Economy ja Premium economy 55x40x23cm 8kg. I would not risk this, because I have had previous experience of having had my carry on weighed again at the German hub airports. Norwegian LowFare: 38x30x20 cm, max 10kg, LowFare+ 55x40x23 PLUS 38x30x20 Total 10kg, Flex 55x40x23 PLUS 30x20x38 Total 15kg. Let's see how many routes this company operates later this year... Vueling on board 35x20x20cm under seat in front of you. "Bookings made before 10 November: In accordance with recommendations from the authorities, we have to reduce hand luggage on the plane to a minimum so that customers and crew have as little contact with it as possible. All customers in boarding groups 2 and 3, i.e. who do not have a connecting flight or have not booked priority boarding, must check in their hand luggage at the desk, at no extra cost (max. 10 kg and 55x40x20 cm)." I am considering a Tumi Gym Bag (485€) because as a nylon garment bag it looks "light", not like a camera bag and its size might be sufficient 48.4x28x24cm (external) and fairly small weight 1.9kg. I still need to haul my u/w gear to a Tumi shop to check if the gear actually fits into the bag. Plus, a gym bag does not really protect the gear. https://tumi.com/en/alpha-bravo-mccoy-gym-bag/103289-1041.html?cgid=bags_all-bags Or should I purchase a smaller backpack for the housing and laptop only, and carry the WACP in its original padded circular travel case, diameter 24cm and height 25cm = 25x24x24cm, i.e. it will not fit under the seat...? Plus, still the dilemma of having two(2) carry on items. But, as smaller items they might be easier to fit somewhere? Definitely no Pelicase or anything else that already looks heavy. Any recommendations?
  8. Now I had a chance to view your video on my mobile Phone in full screen mode and the binding together with the sound is quite obvious. The rubber friction gear I referred to is the final gear that is the counterpart to the respective camera dial. Irrespective of housing brand, I have fixed many cases where this friction gear slips, sometimes only in one direction. During maintenance one often needs to disassemble other parts as well together with their o rings. I have seen many o rings in excellent condition but also a fair share of cracked, worn or spliced o rings, some from diy cases. In order to guarantee no leaks, it usually makes sense to replace all the o rings at the same time. Also the reputation of better brands is dependent of not having any unnecessary leaks.
  9. Yes there is a crack in plastic gear and it needs fixing. But are you sure that is the root cause to the original problem? It could as well be the rubber friction gear that causes the problem (slipping), or a missing (slipped out of place) compression spring within the front friction assembly. Or some (occasional) jamming elsewhere in the mechanism which in turn caused fatigue in the plastic gear and it cracked. Concerning the screw that got damaged during disassembly, that particular mechanism entity contains several screws of different sizes and shapes. You will need inch based measurement tools in order to measure the screw carefully and then try to find a replacement. -- I do agree with you concerning customer satisfaction. And Aquatica has often exceeded expectations here. Perhaps they just missed your message? The problem however is that for a 10-30 euro part, just the communication and logistics effort is easily beyond 100 euros. Thus it makes a lot more sense to manage slight issues, like fixing the slipping of a dial, as part of a thorough annual/biannual housing service. E.g. as a housing service center we do keep in stock hundreds of types/sizes of inch and mm screws, circlips, spring pins, washers, various springs and other general purpose parts just in case any of these are lost or broken. These are in addition to housing specific maintenance kits. Literally 5 digit euros tied to these. But sorry no, we do not have that particular gear in stock. And in general, the spare parts for camera housings is not a volume business, i.e. it is economically not worth selling parts separately.
  10. Hi Stephan, Returning to my earlier question: Tether kit available separately? Due to the numerous new camera annoucements during the last year. the 1DXII/1DXIII underwater is getting a bit dated. Thus by reducing your asking price of the housing (by separating the tethering kit), you might have a slightly better chance of selling the housing as well... Best Regards Richard
  11. The quality question and readiness to pay for it really depends on how critical the failure is. If I would dive a hundred bio dives per year and I would have one or two failures (and throw the lights into the bin), perhaps I would not mind this and I could even purchase couple of spare ones just to have available when needed. But, a significant amount of my dives are such that there might be just a once per season or even once per lifetime chance to dive and shoot the scenery. In such cases I am very willing to pay whatever sum (within my reach) that gives me good enough confidence that the lights will work when needed, flawlessly and predictably. Example one: once-in-a-lifetime chance to dive the Finnish flagship WWII destroyer at 80m depth, a grave of 300 soldiers. The coordinates of it are a strict state secret and punishable by minimum 6 months of prison even if one only attempts to leak the coordinates. The approximate location is somewhere in the open seas between Finland, Sweden and Estonia. After years of research and working with a number of key navy officers we were granted permission and coordinates to check that the wreck was still in a untouched condition. Nobody had scuba dived this wreck before, and maybe never will again because the coordinates were on a 8" floppy disk. Example two: progressive dives and setup dives to shoot a cave up to 860 meter penetration. I had already studied this cave a year earlier and then called together a team to spend a second week diving just this cave and penetrating each time a bit further. It was the effort of altogether six persons spending a week to get this shot, plus all diving and travel expenses. If the total cost of this expedition is in the range of tens of thousands of euros, why should I risk failure by saving a thousand euros on the lights? Really, why?
  12. Hi, I do already have the same housing. Would you be interested to sell the tethering system (cables, bulkheads etc)? Price incl. shipping to Finland? Best Regards Richard
  13. Just a comment on your disclaimer: most of the internal (hidden) O-rings of Nauticam housings are grey, not black. E.g. the O-rings of all the push button axles and rotary axles are grey. I have no information of whether the oil you suggest, is compatible or not with any of the O-rings. Although O-rings generally speaking are very strong, I have seen cracked, clipped, torn and softened O-rings as a result of extreme weather, misuse, chemical misuse, and wear/tear.
  14. There are also other types of dives where carrying any additional gear, like a tripod, becomes tedious. For example long cave dives. My cave dives are max 3 hours, e.g. 1 kilometer in, 1 kilometer out. In addition to the bulk of gas cylinders, any additional drag with the camera gear does become taxing for the camera man. Luckily in team diving some of my mates understand this, and voluntarily might carry some of my stage tanks part of the way. In cave shooting, I mainly concentrate on shooting scenes on the go instead of static or panning shots. This brings an additionally source of instability: your swim kicks. I does help a lot to learn a perfect trim, also a perfect trim during the kicks, i.e. no "galloping" effect. But even with a perfect trim, you actually accelerate and decelerate with each of your kicks. If I have used image stabilization, I have noticed that it might falsely react to this acceleration/deceleration and create unnecessary IS action which shows as a superfluous wave type wobble. Thus I actually have turned off IS to avoid this. Lights on long arms do stabilize the camera set via their inertia. Also having a float/floats on top and heavier lights below your midline, will stabilize the set to some extent. However, whilst swimming, the floats and lights should be placed so that they create an equal amount of longitudinal drag/resistance for each swim kick. Otherwise your longitudinal kick will cause you set to tilt and lean during each kick. I have noticed that for critical shots, it might be better to change to a modified frog kick or modified flutter kick, which reduces the longitudinal acceleration/deceleration. Of course in tight spaces, this comes naturally. Another problem is that during long cave dives fatigue will affect your concentration resulting in unwanted movement in the footage. The video below is from a 3 hour long cave dive. This actually was shot during ten separate dives of 2-3h duration due to the complexity of setting up stage tanks en route etc. There is no stabilization on the 5DIII camera nor the 16-35mm lense. I do admit that some shots are far from perfect. But for me, the main content of the video is the "being there" mood. https://vimeo.com/176796652 https://vimeo.com/176796652 https://www.vimeo.com/176796652 PS. How do I embed a vimeo video into a posting?
  15. A small update: I just noticed that the Ninja V 10.61 firmware has a fix "to improve signal locking from certain cameras...Use with Z Cam...Use with the Canon EOS -1DX Mark III on 4Kp50 and 60 video". Atomos also added a nice new feature: time lapse recording to ProRes, DNx and ProRes RAW. This included options for capture intervals and total duration. This is a welcome feature to me, because the 1DXIII itself does not have this feature.
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