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r4e last won the day on November 1 2020

r4e had the most liked content!

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About r4e

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    Wolf Eel

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    Southern Finland

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon EOS 1DXIII, 1DIV, 5DIII, Sony MC50E
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica, Nauticam
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2xKeldan 8X CRI95, Salvo 200W HMI, 3-5xNorthern Light Scuba 80W LED, 2xNLS 300W LED, Green Force various LED+HID
  • Accessories
    Aquatica and Nauticam arms
  1. I found from my old notes the same combination with a 50mm extension, or, does this bring the lense to much forward? I wonder which is right. Perhaps could try 55mm?
  2. Hi, 1. There is little difference between optical and electrical cords if they are properly manufactured. Electrical cables might have more physical strength against getting snagged in your other gear. But thereafter the cable might be less reliable. 2. I wouldn't add vacuum pressure for deeper dives. It increases pressure difference between the inside and outside of the housing and thus could slightly reduce MOD for the housing. E.g. a housing with 100m specs and a normal 0.2 bar vacuum, would, in theory, reduce to MOD 98m if you increase the vacuum to 0.4 bar. Increasing vacuum is totally unnecessary unless you have trouble of a vacuum sensor circuit not being temperature compensated. Then you might receive false alarms when descending into colder water, if you pump just to the minimum threshold in room temperature. 3. Strength of small components is not likely to be a limiting factor. 4. Condensation risk is dependent on temperature difference, air moisture (when closing housing) and housing material. A metal housing will conduct heat/cold faster and therefore the metal parts will sooner become cold than the dome, thus collecting the majority of moisture and reducing likelihood of condensation in the dome area. Depth will affect only via water temperature. E.g. here in Finland almost all diving to anything deeper than 30m will be around 4-6 degrees celsius. However, even with a metal housing, condensation is possible if you do not pay attention to closing procedures. E.g. if you are sweating in a 30+ celcius climate and place the camera into the housing with sweaty hands and drip some of your sweat into the housing and then leave the housing in the sun for a while, all that moisture will become partial pressure steam into the air of the housing. If you then make a fast descent to 4 degree water, you might have condensation even inside the dome. (done that). 5. The manufacturer should specify depth ratings for each dome model separately. Please note that there are both glass and acrylic domes that are specified to only 40m. However, the depth rating is for a new dome without scratches and/or microcracks. These faults are likely to decrease depth tolerance. 6. The viewfinder falls under the small components topic. It is the outer glass that takes the pressure difference. In most cases it is straight glass with sufficient thickness. However, I want to point out that in some housing the view finder is attached to an acrylic back window. If you use a longer 45 or 180 degree viewfinder on your housing and you happen to bump a tank against the viewfinder, there will be momentary dynamic forces in addition to the static water pressure. 7. The back window is designed by the housing manufacturer to be thick enough. In most cases it is a straight acrylic sheet without curvature and most of them range between 5-10 mm thickness. In addition to thickness, the critical design question is the surface area. It is often the surface area of the acrylic window that will limit the maximum depth. This is quite apparent for Blackmagic camera housings and some of the monitor/recorder housings, especially one with larger screen size. 8. Different manufacturers have different procedures for this. For example, some manufacturers just perform a test to this nominal depth, but, design and manufacture all the items robust enough for much bigger depths. They just don't claim any higher figures. In Europe/EU there is regulation concerning pressure vessels and how the maximum operational pressure and test pressure should relate to each other. I wonder how many, if any, of the manufacturers have paid attention to these rules. We perform hydrostatic testing for our customers' u/w camera gear and do perform various kinds of tests upto static pressures matching 150m water depth. However, these are static tests. If you bump your acrylic (or glaas) dome into a tank, DPV, ship wreck or solid rock at 150m depth, there will be the combined effect of static and dynamic forces at very small points of contact and an implosion is possible. Some of our customers have been shooting stuff at 150m and I have warned them about this combined risk.
  3. If you are interested in caves and stalactites, central eastern coast is a good destination and dive operator called "Protec Sardinia". There are several extensive cave systems that require cave diving certificates. However, two of them have direct access to the water surface above for the first 50-150 meters and thus you can enter them eventhough you would only have an oper water dive certificate. The entrances are quite photogenic.
  4. Owen, you might have to specify which port you mean, or, for which lense. We, Cerella Oy in Finland, do have in stock the following Aquatica ports: 4" mini dome (glass), 6" dome port (acrylic), 8" dome port (acrylic), 8" dome port (optical glass) plus various extensions and macro ports. The 9.25" mega dome is by custom order only. All items are new, mint in box with normal warranty. We are an official Aquatica dealer. Please contact by email myynti (at) cerella.fi or via facebook/CerellaOy. Some of the product info can be seen at our (old) web pages, but, for uptodate info, please contact us directly. Sales from Finland to U.K. is normal EU sales until brexit. Best Regards Richard
  5. The bitrates for BMPCC6K are max 203 MB/s which is "only" 1624 Mbps, so that is less than with the FP and still 4x the data of GH5s. Thus 1TB disk would give you 1h 20 minutes of shooting time. If I multiply this by e.g. hundred dives per year, the total storage needed plus backups scares me. Obviously with this cost in mind, one would become much more picky of when to record and when not. I guess with a "cinema" camera you are supposed to plan and design your shots instead of just shooting opportunistically whatever you come across. Perhaps the solution would be to have a Paralenz or similar camera rigged on top of your proper camera. This secondary camera would be shooting the entire dive... Another possible solution would be to use the preroll feature of the Z CAM cameras. I have not yet tried it, but there is supposed to be a 5 second preroll. If you keep your camera generally nicely framed with whatever background scenery there is and hit record when there is some emerging action or the scenery otherwise is turning beautiful, you might be able to not miss any opportunistic shots. Plus, you could still shoot the planned shots as well. What I do like about the fp and Nikonos combination is its very small and travel friendly size.
  6. Great list. May I add: Europe / Finland: Cerella Oy Mail address: PL 1120, 00101 Helsinki Visiting address: Mannerheimintie 42 A 3 Phone: +358-9-621 3301 Email: myynti ( at ) cerella.fi Web: www.cerella.fi FB: www.facebook.com/CerellaOy
  7. I am wondering what is the point of the original question? Are you trying to avoid German value added taxes and EU import duties? If not, wouldn't it be easier to purchase directly from any of the many Nauticam dealers in Europe? The dealers pay the same taxes and duties. Since they typically order more than one item from the factory, there is some leverage on the international delivery costs. From what I have compared prices, many of the Nauticam dealers offer same/similar pricing as Nauticam themselves. Some offer even lower prices. Plus the European prices already include all the import duties in their prices whilst if you import yourself, you'll have to add them. Disclaimer: I represent Cerella Oy, a Nauticam dealer in Finland. Thus, my point might seem a bit subjective.
  8. Hi Nicool, I do not quite understand why you would want to have two vacuum valves on the same housing, "for redundancy"?. Installing two valves just doubles the risk that you might have a leak through either valve. Or do you fear that you cannot release the partial vacuum after the dive? Richard
  9. Hi Josh, I am technical diver as well. Maximum depth 103m/340ft and max penetration 860m/half-a-mile. My comments apply to Aquatica and Nauticam. Having serviced a number of housings, there has been only one single occurance of the Aquatica metallic latch opening unintentionally. The plastic Aquatica(Amphibico) latch with a rotating motion does not have that risk. The Nauticam latches with a red button and a lever are quite unlikely to open unintentionally since this would require simultaneous action on both. However, the risk of unintentional latch opening can be mitigated by a vacuum system that holds the housing halves together even with the latches completely open. Depending on model, the vacuum valve does protrude a bit and you might consider if this would increase risk of line entanglement or not - really depends on the entire configuration. For the ports, I advise using port lock mechanisms available from both vendors. Considering toughness of housing, the Aquatica models are a bit tougher. This can be seen on the metallic pushbuttons, trigger and various levers. The same applies to the handles and connection points of 1" ball arms. Please note that the larger controls have also a benefit when operated with thick gloves. I have heard that some cave divers prefer Aquatica for cave diving, but, likewise I know many cave divers using Nauticam. Perhaps the most important question is where to store the housing if you have to use both hands, e.g. gas switches during descent/ascent or pull-and-glide in strong currents. You definitely will want to protect the dome with a neoprene cover. I keep mine attached to a very short (5 cm) double loop bungee attached to the right handle plus a clip on the bungee. If needed, I clip the housing to my right D-ring. If the housing is neutral or just positive, it will float nicely under your right arm pit. Another choice would be to clip to your butt D-ring unless you have stage tanks clipped to same place. If the neoprene cover does come off, you'll easily end up with scratches on your dome. You might want practice clipping off your long hose on the same D-ring and emergency deployment of the long hose. Please note that some of the domes, especially some glass domes, might have maximum depth of 40m/120ft only. Finally, there is the question of lights. If you shoot stills and use strobes, you obviously will have light arms which will create additional questions of stowage and how to manage any squeezes. Alternatively, you could request your team to hold off-camera video lights for you. You'll need knowledgeable team members for this and some planning as well. Richard
  10. Hi Marli, Since you are still searching for an AD7100/7200 housing in, quote, "excellent shape", would you consider mint condition? We have one unused 20073 housing in stock. The housing is v1 and has dual Nikonos, but, we can retrofit either dual optical, or, one optical+one Nikonos without additional cost and hydrotest the housing at 9bar pressure. We also have the reinforced springs in stock. If interested, please PM me, or send an email. You can find our contact information from Aquatica's dealer listing for Finland, Europe. Best Regards Richard Eller
  11. Perhaps limited feedback relates to the majority of Wetpixel visitors being foremost stills shooters? Don't forget the older Blackmagic Cinema and Production Cameras with a Nauticam housing. Optional power pack with 3.5 hours of run time. SDI or HDMI out. However, sensor is only Super 35. However, it seems that the 8-bit Sony A7xII series with FF sensor has filled the low-end market thus leaving only the GH5 as a more-than-8-bit video camera. Personally, I was very much tempted to go with Magic Lantern on a Canon 5D3. However the unofficial pioneering nature of ML together with limited recording time and high cost of recording media made me hesitate. I guess there are many 5D3 videoshooters still waiting for Canon to launch a proper video camera in DSLR form factor...
  12. One of my customers did not remove the O-ring before flying and he then wondered why the back window had popped out during flight. Luckily it had. Because there is the risk that the normal pressurized air would just leak out into the underpressurized cabin. On landing, you would then end up with a slight vacuum inside the housing. Without a vacuum valve, you might try to release the vacuum by opening one of the spare bulkheads, if any.
  13. Disclaimer: I have no experience of the IBIS in the GH5. However, my former Sony MC50 video camera had an OIS that was able to lessen, but not completely eliminate, the slight swaying caused by fin action whilst shooting video and swimming at the same time. The Sony had couple of settings for the OIS and I shot test videos with various settings before I selected the setting that best matched my swimming style. I once forgot the recording on after a dive and got wonderful footage of the camera being handed over to the boat and then thrown under a bench. Thereafter the OIS kept compensating the rolling motion of the boat. PS. you can also lessen the swaying motion by performing much smaller fin strokes, e.g. modified frog or flutter kick.
  14. The optical sensor of the Sea&Sea strobes is known to have had sensitivity issues with various electronic trigger boards from different brands. You should try to maximize the trigger light emited to the optical cable, If there are small reflectors in the housing, try turning them into a position which gives the most direct mirrored route of the trigger light. Additionally you could line the top inside of the housing by some tin foil. This helped in one case.
  15. I guess you are using an Ikelite Y cable to connect from a single Ikelite bulkhead on your Aquatica housing to your dual strobes. A faulty Y cable or bad connection from it to the bulkhead connector could cause simultaneous trouble to both strobes. The next suspect is the internal cabling and bad connections. If the internal cables from bulkhead and hot shoe are connected to a small circuit board via pin-like connectors, try removing and reinserting the connectors. If there are DIP switches on the circuit board, carefully make a note of their positions and thereafter switch them couple of times back-and-forth before restoring them to their initial positions. You can check the (service) manual for the right positions of the DIP switches. Are you using the new Ike TTL circuitry in your Aquatica housing? Perhaps that is misbehaving? If you still have the internal cabling from an earlier housing, you could try direct internal connection from strobe bulkheads to flash shoe.
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