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r4e

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Everything posted by r4e

  1. I found from my old notes the same combination with a 50mm extension, or, does this bring the lense to much forward? I wonder which is right. Perhaps could try 55mm?
  2. Hi, 1. There is little difference between optical and electrical cords if they are properly manufactured. Electrical cables might have more physical strength against getting snagged in your other gear. But thereafter the cable might be less reliable. 2. I wouldn't add vacuum pressure for deeper dives. It increases pressure difference between the inside and outside of the housing and thus could slightly reduce MOD for the housing. E.g. a housing with 100m specs and a normal 0.2 bar vacuum, would, in theory, reduce to MOD 98m if you increase the vacuum to 0.4 bar. Increasing vacuum is totally unnecessary unless you have trouble of a vacuum sensor circuit not being temperature compensated. Then you might receive false alarms when descending into colder water, if you pump just to the minimum threshold in room temperature. 3. Strength of small components is not likely to be a limiting factor. 4. Condensation risk is dependent on temperature difference, air moisture (when closing housing) and housing material. A metal housing will conduct heat/cold faster and therefore the metal parts will sooner become cold than the dome, thus collecting the majority of moisture and reducing likelihood of condensation in the dome area. Depth will affect only via water temperature. E.g. here in Finland almost all diving to anything deeper than 30m will be around 4-6 degrees celsius. However, even with a metal housing, condensation is possible if you do not pay attention to closing procedures. E.g. if you are sweating in a 30+ celcius climate and place the camera into the housing with sweaty hands and drip some of your sweat into the housing and then leave the housing in the sun for a while, all that moisture will become partial pressure steam into the air of the housing. If you then make a fast descent to 4 degree water, you might have condensation even inside the dome. (done that). 5. The manufacturer should specify depth ratings for each dome model separately. Please note that there are both glass and acrylic domes that are specified to only 40m. However, the depth rating is for a new dome without scratches and/or microcracks. These faults are likely to decrease depth tolerance. 6. The viewfinder falls under the small components topic. It is the outer glass that takes the pressure difference. In most cases it is straight glass with sufficient thickness. However, I want to point out that in some housing the view finder is attached to an acrylic back window. If you use a longer 45 or 180 degree viewfinder on your housing and you happen to bump a tank against the viewfinder, there will be momentary dynamic forces in addition to the static water pressure. 7. The back window is designed by the housing manufacturer to be thick enough. In most cases it is a straight acrylic sheet without curvature and most of them range between 5-10 mm thickness. In addition to thickness, the critical design question is the surface area. It is often the surface area of the acrylic window that will limit the maximum depth. This is quite apparent for Blackmagic camera housings and some of the monitor/recorder housings, especially one with larger screen size. 8. Different manufacturers have different procedures for this. For example, some manufacturers just perform a test to this nominal depth, but, design and manufacture all the items robust enough for much bigger depths. They just don't claim any higher figures. In Europe/EU there is regulation concerning pressure vessels and how the maximum operational pressure and test pressure should relate to each other. I wonder how many, if any, of the manufacturers have paid attention to these rules. We perform hydrostatic testing for our customers' u/w camera gear and do perform various kinds of tests upto static pressures matching 150m water depth. However, these are static tests. If you bump your acrylic (or glaas) dome into a tank, DPV, ship wreck or solid rock at 150m depth, there will be the combined effect of static and dynamic forces at very small points of contact and an implosion is possible. Some of our customers have been shooting stuff at 150m and I have warned them about this combined risk.
  3. If you are interested in caves and stalactites, central eastern coast is a good destination and dive operator called "Protec Sardinia". There are several extensive cave systems that require cave diving certificates. However, two of them have direct access to the water surface above for the first 50-150 meters and thus you can enter them eventhough you would only have an oper water dive certificate. The entrances are quite photogenic.
  4. Owen, you might have to specify which port you mean, or, for which lense. We, Cerella Oy in Finland, do have in stock the following Aquatica ports: 4" mini dome (glass), 6" dome port (acrylic), 8" dome port (acrylic), 8" dome port (optical glass) plus various extensions and macro ports. The 9.25" mega dome is by custom order only. All items are new, mint in box with normal warranty. We are an official Aquatica dealer. Please contact by email myynti (at) cerella.fi or via facebook/CerellaOy. Some of the product info can be seen at our (old) web pages, but, for uptodate info, please contact us directly. Sales from Finland to U.K. is normal EU sales until brexit. Best Regards Richard
  5. The bitrates for BMPCC6K are max 203 MB/s which is "only" 1624 Mbps, so that is less than with the FP and still 4x the data of GH5s. Thus 1TB disk would give you 1h 20 minutes of shooting time. If I multiply this by e.g. hundred dives per year, the total storage needed plus backups scares me. Obviously with this cost in mind, one would become much more picky of when to record and when not. I guess with a "cinema" camera you are supposed to plan and design your shots instead of just shooting opportunistically whatever you come across. Perhaps the solution would be to have a Paralenz or similar camera rigged on top of your proper camera. This secondary camera would be shooting the entire dive... Another possible solution would be to use the preroll feature of the Z CAM cameras. I have not yet tried it, but there is supposed to be a 5 second preroll. If you keep your camera generally nicely framed with whatever background scenery there is and hit record when there is some emerging action or the scenery otherwise is turning beautiful, you might be able to not miss any opportunistic shots. Plus, you could still shoot the planned shots as well. What I do like about the fp and Nikonos combination is its very small and travel friendly size.
  6. Great list. May I add: Europe / Finland: Cerella Oy Mail address: PL 1120, 00101 Helsinki Visiting address: Mannerheimintie 42 A 3 Phone: +358-9-621 3301 Email: myynti ( at ) cerella.fi Web: www.cerella.fi FB: www.facebook.com/CerellaOy
  7. I am wondering what is the point of the original question? Are you trying to avoid German value added taxes and EU import duties? If not, wouldn't it be easier to purchase directly from any of the many Nauticam dealers in Europe? The dealers pay the same taxes and duties. Since they typically order more than one item from the factory, there is some leverage on the international delivery costs. From what I have compared prices, many of the Nauticam dealers offer same/similar pricing as Nauticam themselves. Some offer even lower prices. Plus the European prices already include all the import duties in their prices whilst if you import yourself, you'll have to add them. Disclaimer: I represent Cerella Oy, a Nauticam dealer in Finland. Thus, my point might seem a bit subjective.
  8. Hi Nicool, I do not quite understand why you would want to have two vacuum valves on the same housing, "for redundancy"?. Installing two valves just doubles the risk that you might have a leak through either valve. Or do you fear that you cannot release the partial vacuum after the dive? Richard
  9. Hi Josh, I am technical diver as well. Maximum depth 103m/340ft and max penetration 860m/half-a-mile. My comments apply to Aquatica and Nauticam. Having serviced a number of housings, there has been only one single occurance of the Aquatica metallic latch opening unintentionally. The plastic Aquatica(Amphibico) latch with a rotating motion does not have that risk. The Nauticam latches with a red button and a lever are quite unlikely to open unintentionally since this would require simultaneous action on both. However, the risk of unintentional latch opening can be mitigated by a vacuum system that holds the housing halves together even with the latches completely open. Depending on model, the vacuum valve does protrude a bit and you might consider if this would increase risk of line entanglement or not - really depends on the entire configuration. For the ports, I advise using port lock mechanisms available from both vendors. Considering toughness of housing, the Aquatica models are a bit tougher. This can be seen on the metallic pushbuttons, trigger and various levers. The same applies to the handles and connection points of 1" ball arms. Please note that the larger controls have also a benefit when operated with thick gloves. I have heard that some cave divers prefer Aquatica for cave diving, but, likewise I know many cave divers using Nauticam. Perhaps the most important question is where to store the housing if you have to use both hands, e.g. gas switches during descent/ascent or pull-and-glide in strong currents. You definitely will want to protect the dome with a neoprene cover. I keep mine attached to a very short (5 cm) double loop bungee attached to the right handle plus a clip on the bungee. If needed, I clip the housing to my right D-ring. If the housing is neutral or just positive, it will float nicely under your right arm pit. Another choice would be to clip to your butt D-ring unless you have stage tanks clipped to same place. If the neoprene cover does come off, you'll easily end up with scratches on your dome. You might want practice clipping off your long hose on the same D-ring and emergency deployment of the long hose. Please note that some of the domes, especially some glass domes, might have maximum depth of 40m/120ft only. Finally, there is the question of lights. If you shoot stills and use strobes, you obviously will have light arms which will create additional questions of stowage and how to manage any squeezes. Alternatively, you could request your team to hold off-camera video lights for you. You'll need knowledgeable team members for this and some planning as well. Richard
  10. Hi Marli, Since you are still searching for an AD7100/7200 housing in, quote, "excellent shape", would you consider mint condition? We have one unused 20073 housing in stock. The housing is v1 and has dual Nikonos, but, we can retrofit either dual optical, or, one optical+one Nikonos without additional cost and hydrotest the housing at 9bar pressure. We also have the reinforced springs in stock. If interested, please PM me, or send an email. You can find our contact information from Aquatica's dealer listing for Finland, Europe. Best Regards Richard Eller
  11. Perhaps limited feedback relates to the majority of Wetpixel visitors being foremost stills shooters? Don't forget the older Blackmagic Cinema and Production Cameras with a Nauticam housing. Optional power pack with 3.5 hours of run time. SDI or HDMI out. However, sensor is only Super 35. However, it seems that the 8-bit Sony A7xII series with FF sensor has filled the low-end market thus leaving only the GH5 as a more-than-8-bit video camera. Personally, I was very much tempted to go with Magic Lantern on a Canon 5D3. However the unofficial pioneering nature of ML together with limited recording time and high cost of recording media made me hesitate. I guess there are many 5D3 videoshooters still waiting for Canon to launch a proper video camera in DSLR form factor...
  12. One of my customers did not remove the O-ring before flying and he then wondered why the back window had popped out during flight. Luckily it had. Because there is the risk that the normal pressurized air would just leak out into the underpressurized cabin. On landing, you would then end up with a slight vacuum inside the housing. Without a vacuum valve, you might try to release the vacuum by opening one of the spare bulkheads, if any.
  13. Disclaimer: I have no experience of the IBIS in the GH5. However, my former Sony MC50 video camera had an OIS that was able to lessen, but not completely eliminate, the slight swaying caused by fin action whilst shooting video and swimming at the same time. The Sony had couple of settings for the OIS and I shot test videos with various settings before I selected the setting that best matched my swimming style. I once forgot the recording on after a dive and got wonderful footage of the camera being handed over to the boat and then thrown under a bench. Thereafter the OIS kept compensating the rolling motion of the boat. PS. you can also lessen the swaying motion by performing much smaller fin strokes, e.g. modified frog or flutter kick.
  14. The optical sensor of the Sea&Sea strobes is known to have had sensitivity issues with various electronic trigger boards from different brands. You should try to maximize the trigger light emited to the optical cable, If there are small reflectors in the housing, try turning them into a position which gives the most direct mirrored route of the trigger light. Additionally you could line the top inside of the housing by some tin foil. This helped in one case.
  15. I guess you are using an Ikelite Y cable to connect from a single Ikelite bulkhead on your Aquatica housing to your dual strobes. A faulty Y cable or bad connection from it to the bulkhead connector could cause simultaneous trouble to both strobes. The next suspect is the internal cabling and bad connections. If the internal cables from bulkhead and hot shoe are connected to a small circuit board via pin-like connectors, try removing and reinserting the connectors. If there are DIP switches on the circuit board, carefully make a note of their positions and thereafter switch them couple of times back-and-forth before restoring them to their initial positions. You can check the (service) manual for the right positions of the DIP switches. Are you using the new Ike TTL circuitry in your Aquatica housing? Perhaps that is misbehaving? If you still have the internal cabling from an earlier housing, you could try direct internal connection from strobe bulkheads to flash shoe.
  16. If you plan shooting near the maximum depth ratings (of domes), using a vacuum valve system has its benefits and drawbacks. A vacuum valve will improve O ring sealing on the surface and very shallow waters (less than deco depths). It also will help you to avoid some common user mistakes and might provide some "peace of mind". However, for maximum depths, the partial vacuum (0.2-0.5 bars) will increase the pressure differential and consequently decrease the nominal maximum depth by as much. In other words, the dome might implode 6-15 feet shallower than it otherwise would. Secondly, the valve is yet another protrusion on your housing and thus slightly increases risk of line entanglement etc. Additionally, the valve itself is an additional leak point. If you do not close the valve fully, it might be airtight at the surface, but still leak at maximum depths. Finally, should your vacuum circuit alarm whilst at bottom, apart from turning the housing to face downwards, there is not much what you can do until returning to surface. With one or multiple hour deco obligations you can only listen to the continuous alarm and watch as the dome fills with water. Sending the camera with a SMB to surface has its own risks, multiple risks.
  17. Your Aquatica housing for the Nikon D7000 camera has a depth rating of 90m/300ft and it can be upgraded to 130m/425 ft. Finding exact reliable depth ratings for each of the dome ports is a bit more difficult. According to Aquatica, they test all their dome ports, macro ports and extensions inhouse to a depth equivalent of 90m/300ft. However, I have seen third party web quotes of using Aquatica housings even upto 700 feet. I personally have been shooting with the 8" acrylic dome at 80m/260ft depths and some of my friends have been shooting with Aquatica housings and domes beyond 100m/330 ft depths. However, you will need the stiffer spring update for deep shots. And I would hesitate taking a 9.25 glass megadome to these depths... For comparison, the Nauticam optical glass dome ports are rated to either 40m/130ft or 60m/200ft. Other Nauticam acrylic ports are rated from 45m/150ft to 100m/330ft including some special versions. And there has been a test dive to 500ft with the 4.33" dome. The Sea&Sea YS-D2 has a depth rating of 100m/330ft. For deep diving I would pay attention to clean setup of the equipment, e.g. no dangling cords etc. Make sure you can fold the arms and clip the camera away. I definitely would take the neoprene dome cover with me. For gas changes you can temporarily donate the camera to your buddy unless you have video light cords running to batteries on your belt. However, if the need arises, you have to be capable of ascending solo and managing gas switches on your own. That's why clipping the camera away would be a good choice. I also would prepare the camera whilst descending, e.g. perform WB adjustments and prefocusing a bit shallower but in darkness. If you plan to shoot wide angle video shots of wrecks in darkness, you will need a lot of video light. I have been using 2x80W LED video lights on camera arms and/or larger lights off camera. E.g. the video below was shot with only two 300W lights off camera. Getting your light assistants to illuminate the wreck suitably is another story... https://vimeo.com/120930016
  18. Hi Petra, My personal opinion is that it is not worth bothering with manual focus unless you have a tripod and you are shooting macro. Normally you would focus electronically by squeezing the trigger halfway. However, it is much more convenient to assign the focusing function to one of the other buttons, e.g. the '*' button on the back. You can do this from the Canon menus. Consequently you'll be able to do the slowish video focusing before the actual video shoot(s). Assuming that distance to subject matter is not changing a lot, you can then shoot one or more video shots. With a wide angle lense and a medium aperture like 5.6-8.0 there is some leeway in the well focused area. Something you'll need to avoid is unintentional focusing on the surface of your dome. This might happen if there are dust particles or scratches on your dome and any light hits the dome suitably. This could be avoided by manual focusing. However doing a manual focus when using the magnifying glass button (5x, 10x) is a bit cumbersome. Normally I perform a back button focus. If this is a critical video shoot, I'll shoot one still picture and check from playback with magnify that everything is in focus and thereafter shoot only video. Best Regards Richard
  19. Hi Petra, When moving from stills to video, the biggest change is the need to white balance already whilst underwater because 8 bit video has far less post processing tolerance than a 16-bit RAW picture has. If you want to keep your initial expenses low, you can begin by just using available light and manually white balancing with your Canon camera. Your camera will give fairly good color reproduction if you take a shot of white/grey sand or stone or even your own palm and then use the custom white balance feature in the Canon menus. Considering the light Spanish waters, you should get reasonably good shots upto 20 meters depth. Deeper than that, you might have to make compromises between accurate color reproduction and noise, especially in the red channel. Using your palm for white balancing will help a little. You'll have to be careful of not over compensating because then e.g. rust spots of wrecks might appear excessively red. The other route to go, is to use video light(s). If you are shooting just small fish and fauna, a smaller lamp of 2000-5000 lumens might be sufficient to restore most of the colors. However, for anything larger you'll need a lot more light, especially if you are competing with the Spanish sun underwater. I personally use anything between 16000 and 100000 lumens of video light power underwater because I shoot caves and wrecks in deep/dark waters. Something that I do regret is that I prioritized total lumens instead of good color rendering. In the market, there are very few video lamps that have a high color rendering inder (CRI) of 96 or higher. If I would be investing in video lights just now, I would definitely consider Keldan video lights. Earlier there used to be excellent but overpriced 200W-300W HMI video lamps, that had really excellent color reproduction, but, those lamps are very rare now. Concerning lense selection, it depends on your targets. A lense with a long zoom range might seem a good overall choice. However, the longer focal lengths will emphasize any unintentionally movement and shake unless you are prepared to use a monopod or tripod. A monopod or tripod will help a lot but you loose some flexibility. In practice, most shooters end up in having a wide angle lense and a separate macro lense.A 16-35mm WA zoom lense (or 10-17 for cropped sensors) is a fairly good choice. However, for video, you definitely will appreciate image stabilization (IS) in the lense. I personally use the zoom control only couple of times during a dive. Depending on subject matter, I normally select a focal length between 17 and 22 mm, hardly even anything longer. It is possible to learn to shoot video without an external monitor. This is assuming that you have good practice of focusing always before a shot. Pls note, that focusing in live view/video mode is much slower though! By using an external monitor with proper video features for focusing and correct exposure you can improve video quality a lot. However, a proper monitor will will easily double the size of your kit. If travelling by car or boat this is not a problem, but for air travel the monitor and video lights will increase your travel costs. Best Regards Richard
  20. It seems that your Symbiosis flash is slower to ignite if you use a higher power setting. You might want to try four things: 1) Check from the camera menus whether you have set the flash to sync either pre or post curtain. Selecting pre curtain should give a longer reaction time window for the flash. 2) Try using a longer exposure time. You could try to find out if there is any correlation between the exposure time and maximum usable Symbiosis power setting. 3) Try it with a fully charged battery 4) If you purchased the housing and strobe from the same local dealer, ask for their help. However, if you mail ordered from different sources, you are on your own concerning compatibility issues. Best Regards Richard
  21. Please note that the curvature of different domes (and manufacturers) vary. Thus the best guess would to find out the dome to sensor distance in the corresponding Aquatica housing and then workout the necessary extension with the dome connected via the adapter in a Nauticam housing. In Aquatica's port chart, they recommend to use a 48453 extension with the Tokina 10-17+1.4xTC. The 48453 has a nominal length of 28.5mm. There might be differences in the camera body positioning to the port hole of the Aquatica and Nauticam housings. Ignoring this, a very rough guess would be to try out either the 10mm or 20mm Nauticam extension rings. For further info, you might want to contact me directly.
  22. I believe OP is referring to the same dilemma I have. If you login at front page of wetpixel.com, the wetpixel.com front page, Full Frame, Articles, TRIPS, Contests, Divefilm and About pages do not show your logged in status, i.e. do not show my account name anywhere and neither show a logout option. On the the Forums page and its subpages show your logged status and allow you to actually logout.
  23. Why not just custom white balance whilst descending to target depth? E.g. white balance at say 20 meters and then continue to 40 meters. This way you eliminate some of the blue or green color cast, but are not yet boosting red to extremely noisy levels.
  24. GoPros adjust color balance almost continuously. Thus the colors of consecutive shots might not match each other, especially if you are shooting footage in caverns, where there might big illumination changes in the cavern zone. If you are shooting in the actual cave area (beyond daylight), the color balance issues are less significant, however, assuming that the cave walls are of similar color. If continuity in color is important for your research, I would select the XA10.
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