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Everything posted by eleung

  1. I tried the old version 18-55 EDII in a night dive with the combination of a 6" dome, 13mm + 20mm extension, +4 diopter in a Nauticam housing. This let me took pictures of creatures from big frog fish, subjects from big and small like small octopus, flounder, leave fish... The above discussions are very informative. The corners improved a lot comparing to just using a flat port. The original wide view can also be restored. I love this setup because I can take a wide range of subjects underwater and topside. In addition, i can use the tokina 10-17 zoom gear by adding a plastic hood with velcro tape.
  2. Thanks Ryan, it has been fixed. Hope that little parts can last reasonably long enough.
  3. Just want to see anyone with Nauticam lock latches have this problem: To open the lock, we push the red button and the black plate will be pulled down and we can release the handle with your finger. However as shown the black plate broken and cannot return to block the handle from swivel.
  4. a housing can last for more than 5-10 years. If you can afford, go for aluminum with better control and support (in terms of ports, gear, ...). A heavy housing you may got charge extra on luggage when travelling and float accessory. Owned an ikelite consumer housing and have experience the button got stuck easy so you need to service them. The Pros is the transparent housing and some nice mini dome from 3rd party like that from underwatercamerastuff
  5. You can try http://www.novuspolish.com/ I did once to repair my UFL. But it was time consuming to repeat 1,2,3 until the surface was acceptable.
  6. I've just bought a Kenko teleplus pro 300 1.4x dgx. Tried Tokina 10-17 w the teleconverter w d7000. It's works w aperture and correct focal length recorded in nikon exif data. Found a compatibility list here. I just felt auto focus is ok fast w d7000 http://www.kenkoglobal.com/pdf/TELEPLUS_DG...ibilityList.pdf
  7. I lost UFL165AD and the 105AD because of this AD mount problem. AD mount is pretty quick for changing lens underwater. However the contact will be wearing out with frequently use. I find it's more easy dropping the lens when doing the water entry with the camera. One way is to hold tight the lens when water entry. Then check it after you are underwater (should check the camera as well to see if any flood) I've fixed a small quick release (one male and one female) on the AD mount and the lens with cable tie. On the AD mount side, its required to use a small plastic spring (the one use by lady for hair) to allow flexibility.
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