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desertdiver11

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About desertdiver11

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  1. Thank you for posting about short Nauticam handles. I had no idea these even existed, but being a small person with small hands, I ordered a set, without even trying them out. I'm sure the addition of short handles will be a positive!
  2. Thanks John and Tim, super informative info! I'm pretty neurotic about setting up my gear in advance, i.e. night before, rather than rushing in the morning, so I like the idea of pressure testing the night before. However, I've also read somewhere that it's not ideal to leave your system pressurized all night, because the way the vacuum pulls is not the same as pressure exerted on the o-rings as when one dives down. So sounds like the Leak Sentinel would be "better" in that regard. I guess, on the other hand, one could pressurize the Nauticam system, check that it holds (what 30 mins?), then depressurize overnight, and then pull the vacuum again in the morning. John, Wow, you dive every weekend?!?!? I'm jealous ;-0 Tim, can I ask, why do you keep upgrading Leak Sentinel versions? Are you upgrading your housing and selling, then buying the newer version?
  3. Thanks Aviator8 I have trip coming up, so probably will buy something else, and think about FP later. Happy Diving
  4. Any advantages, pros/cons with the Leak Sentinal system vs Nauticam? I understand the Leak Sentinal can be pressurized at night, and the circuit be turned off without opening the housing, and continue monitoring the following morning without having to keep fully pressurized overnight? Does the Nauticam operate the same way?
  5. How does one decide on where to put the vacuum on a Nauticam D500 housing or which one to get, M14 or M16? Is it personal preference? I have no plans to add an external monitor, electrical bulkhead, hydrophone or anything else, but may get a 45 degree viewfinder later. Does one location keep it "out of the way" more than another (and maybe allow you to peer over the housing easier when shooting macro for example)? I understand the M14 is designed for smaller housings, but the DSLR housings can take either M14 or M16, and in either location?
  6. Haven't decided between the YS-2J or Z330s Have toyed with the idea of making FO cables myself.... might give it a try before buying Backscatter or Nauticam.
  7. Yep. Already posted there too ;-) Do know what the wait nowdays for FP?
  8. I know this is a long shot, but I'm interested in a used short aluminum backplate or a freedom plate.
  9. Backscatter sells their version of a universal FO cable (S&S plugs + Nauticam connector + Inon connector) for about $30 less than the Nauticam one ($89 vs $120). It's multicore, about the same length, photos appear pretty similar. Anyone have any direct experience? Someone posted having issues with the Nauticam one pulling out occassionally, others have suggested a different o-ring might help tighten it up. Some folks have had issues with unbranded non-multi-core FO cables not providing enough light........ I need 3 FO cables (2 new + 1 backup) so if they are functionally the same (adequate light transmission, similar durability of plastic components, etc), I might as well save some money.
  10. Nauticam NA-D7000V underwater housing (Orig price $3300) NA-D700V (v2) in very good condition. Super clean and meticulously maintained. Sad to admit, but I averaged only one dive trip per year since purchase, so housing didn’t get much use. Housing body shows minor signs of wear with the exception of the housing bottom and the rubberized handle grips, which show moderate wear (see photos). I installed a single Nikonos bulkhead (Orig price $110) for triggering strobes with an electrical sync cord, if desired. Two fiber optic connections are standard on the housing. Leak detector is powered by a single CR2032 battery. O-rings always removed for storage and travel. Nikon D7000 camera (Orig price $1299) Great condition, with minimal signs of use, < 30,000 shutter count (less than 19% of expected shutter life) I installed a screen protector on the LCD screen (so when the hard plastic protector is removed for U/W use, the LCD is still protected). 16.2 megapixel CMOS sensor, ISO 100 to 25,600, 6 fps, Full 1080p HD video capture, Dual memory card slots, 39 autofocus points Includes English and Spanish manual, body cap, Nikon camera strap, Nikon ML-MH25 battery charger plus newer Genuine Nikon EN-EL15 battery (shows no age degradation, as tested in camera). Battery was replaced due to “recall” so is essentially new https://www.nikonusa.com/en/service-and-support/service-advisories/en-el15-rechargeable-li-ion-battery-pack-recall.html Everything works, never flooded, never leaked, never dropped, etc. Selling because I've upgraded (thus keeping all ports, arms, lenses, clamps etc) Happy to provide additional photos. Please PM. $1850 USD plus shipping and insurance at buyer’s expense. (varies depending on location and speed of service)
  11. Shooting Nikon D7000 (cropped sensor). Have both Tokina 10-17 (mini-dome) and Tokina 12-24 (wide dome). Do I need both? Hate to carry the big dome if the 10-17 w/ mini dome will suffice. Sharks get pretty close here, right?
  12. Bump I can tell from the PMs inquiries I'm receiving on this and other web sites this is posted on that I should've posted the final trip price. $5450 for 10 day trip - $800 off! Payment/arrangements will be made directly to Blue Water Photo
  13. I have booked an extended 10-day photo trip with BlueWater Photo (led by Scott Gietler), which I have to cancel due to personal reasons. The trip is on the newly refurbished luxurious Galapagos Master, and runs from May 9-19, 2016. The trip offers 50% more dives than on a standard 7-day trip and extra time at Darwin plus 3 land visits. TImed for hammerheads, mantas, marine iguanas - better visibility and warmer water temps than later in the year. Standard price is $6250 USD, but I am willing to discount. If you are intersted in taking my spot, please PM me. Thanks! See link for more details http://www.bluewaterphotostore.com/galapaos-may2016-trip
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