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rramaley

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Everything posted by rramaley

  1. New? Are you sure you are you are talking about a G10? The G10 is a digital still camera (released) back in like 2008, its not a video camera so the L&M Bluefin housing is not applicable to this camera..
  2. This is a repost: still looking to sell, ideally as a full package. All reasonable offers will be considered. For sale: Complete underwater HD video package: • Light and Motion Bluefin Pro HC7 housing – (Price when new - $3,799). Here is a promo video highlighting all of the features http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtNQNURjf9o • Light and Motion 2.5” remote monitor with camera mount, connecting cord and US charger (Price when new - $1799) – This monitor has a 2.5 display screen and the ability to control the camera and see the footage from a distance – add a longer umbilical cord (not included) and you could record shy critters from 50 ft away, still controlling zoom, focus, and other controls – this is a rare find as Light and Motion doesn’t make these any more for their housings. This is a picture of the monitor: http://www.marinefilm.org/bin/minihome/upl...00;인.jpg • Sony HDR HC7 camera – US version – (List price $1,300). Seriously one of the best cameras I’ve ever seen with respect to recording quality and underwater white balancing. Comes with charger, fire wire adapters for Apple or PC computers, and other associated cables. • Fathom 90 wide angle lens (List price - $900) • 2x Light and Motion Sunray 1000 video lights, 2x underwater battery pods and 2 batters for Light and Motion Housing with US charger (List price $2,499) • 2x spare batteries for video lights with and extra US charger (List price $200) • Pelican 1520 carrying case with customized foam cutouts (List price $225) • Set of spare O-Rings for housing and handles, O-ring grease (List price - $32) • 6x Mini HD tape cassettes – (List price $50) • Large Sony Lithium NP-FH100 battery for camcorder – (List price $150) All in all, these items when purchased new totaled over US$11,000. The equipment is 3 years old or less and has been well taken care of. The camera has just been serviced by Sony and I had the tape mechanism fully replaced so it is as good as new. The only thing which is not functioning is the underwater microphone on the housing, which means that if you film in the housing above water, you won’t get any sound, though it still picks up some sound underwater – you can still hear bubbles…. I have always put music over the top of my videos anyway so does it really matter? I love this setup but, as I have just bought a new full video setup, I need to sell this one!! Why did I buy a new one if the old one is so good? The tape mechanism failed in the camera right before we went on a once in a lifetime trip – as the repair was to take a month, the only way I could take video on our trip was to buy a new setup. The repair on the HC7 is now done and its as good as new but I need to sell it to help pay off the credit card bill from the purchase of the new one! To get a brand new L&M housing and appropriate top of the line HD camera with video lights and the Fathom 90 lens, it will cost you about US$10,000 plus a little more for the extras. I’ve learned from experience that there are pluses and minuses to both setups. For example the new housings have a one button-push manual white balance which is nice (you have to press 4 buttons on the side of the camera on the HC7 housing) but there are also drawbacks – for example if the LED screen fails on the new housing, you can’t use the camera without replacing the back – that can get expensive – with the HC7, you still have the eye-hole on the back of the camera. The HC7 also has the zebra function which for some reason the newer Sony's don't have - this is great for checking that your exposure underwater is good and there are no areas of overexposure. This video (see link) was the most recent video I shot with the HC7 at the beginning of April 2011 - - this was at approximately 60ft (20M) in Sydney during a weekend with excellent visibility. This was in natural light – I didn’t have my lights with me on this dive. It also gives you a sense of the sound underwater even without the housing mic working… I’m willing to consider all reasonable offers. Please let me know if you have any other questions. The equipment is with me in Sydney, but I will ship anywhere.
  3. Very nice footage. I understand your frustration with the White Balance though I cannot offer a solution except to rebalance continually until the camera gets it right. You have a wonderfully steady hand. There are some really excellent shots.
  4. So this is where my inexperience gets me - I don't really understand compression: how you see it in a video, and the things you can do to mitigate it. Any ideas where I could read up on this? Yes it's only 480 on Youtube and has better quality when its 1080, but I noticed in my video that there was graininess at times and certain views - like the shot looking up at the sun or some of the wide angle shark shots - didn't have smooth transitions in contrast (going from light to dark in a single frame) - hard to describe but do you understand what I mean? Might be a factor of not enough light or it is a product of this compression you mention? I know I'm starting to stray now from the forum topic so maybe we'll need to go "offline" on this or migrate the topic to the right forum.....
  5. If you have any interest, here is a video I pulled together of the trip. In the end the challenge was trying to cut all the material down to a length that people could watch in one sitting.... It was an amazing trip.. - Note that this was in a Bluefin base housing - I was mailed the wrong one the day we left so I used it on the trip when I returned but what it did do was make me realise how valuable the microphone, larger viewscreen and manual knob are - so many times I wanted that fine tune focus capability... Would welcome any comments. I plan to practice on this set up as much as possible. Rebecca
  6. For sale: Complete underwater HD video package: • Light and Motion Bluefin Pro HC7 housing – (Price when new - $3,799). Here is a promo video highlighting all of the features http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtNQNURjf9o • Light and Motion 2.5” remote monitor with camera mount, connecting cord and US charger (Price when new - $1799) – This monitor has a 2.5 display screen and the ability to control the camera and see the footage from a distance – add a longer umbilical cord (not included) and you could record shy critters from 50 ft away, still controlling zoom, focus, and other controls – this is a rare find as Light and Motion doesn’t make these any more for their housings. This is a picture of the monitor: http://www.marinefilm.org/bin/minihome/upl...00;인.jpg • Sony HDR HC7 camera – US version – (List price $1,300). Seriously one of the best cameras I’ve ever seen with respect to recording quality and underwater white balancing. Comes with charger, fire wire adapters for Apple or PC computers, and other associated cables. • Fathom 90 wide angle lens (List price - $900) • 2x Light and Motion Sunray 1000 video lights, 2x underwater battery pods and 2 batters for Light and Motion Housing with US charger (List price $2,499) • 2x spare batteries for video lights with and extra US charger (List price $200) • Pelican 1520 carrying case with customized foam cutouts (List price $225) • Set of spare O-Rings for housing and handles, O-ring grease (List price - $32) • 6x Mini HD tape cassettes – (List price $50) All in all, these items when purchased new totaled nearly US$11,000. The equipment is 3 years old or less and has been well taken care of. The camera has just been serviced by Sony and I had the tape mechanism fully replaced so it is as good as new. The only thing which is not functioning is the underwater microphone on the housing, which means that if you film in the housing above water, you won’t get any sound, though it still picks up some sound underwater – you can still hear bubbles…. I have always put music over the top of my videos anyway so does it really matter? I love this setup but, as I have just bought a new full video setup, I need to sell this one!! Why did I buy a new one if the old one is so good? The tape mechanism failed in the camera right before we went on a once in a lifetime trip – as the repair was to take a month, the only way I could take video on our trip was to buy a new setup. The repair on the HC7 is now done and its as good as new but I need to sell it to help pay off the credit card bill! To get a brand new L&M housing and appropriate top of the line HD camera with video lights and the Fathom 90 lens, it will cost you about US$10,000 plus a little more for the extras. I’ve learned from experience that there are pluses and minuses to both setups. For example the new housings have a one button-push manual white balance which is nice (you have to press 4 buttons on the side of the camera on the HC7 housing) but there are also drawbacks – for example if the LED screen fails on the new housing, you can’t use the camera without replacing the back – that can get expensive – with the HC7, you still have the eye-hole on the back of the camera. The HC7 also has the zebra function which for some reason the newer Sony's don't have - this is great for checking that your exposure underwater is good and there are no areas of overexposure. This video (see link) was the most recent video I shot with the HC7 at the beginning of April 2011 - - this was at approximately 60ft (20M) in Sydney during a weekend with excellent visibility. This was in natural light – I didn’t have my lights with me on this dive. It also gives you a sense of the sound underwater even without the housing mic working… I’m willing to consider all reasonable offers. Please let me know if you have any other questions. The equipment is with me in Sydney, but I will ship anywhere.
  7. Hi all, So I'm back from my trip to Sudan and had a wonderful time!!! It was interesting playing with a new toy and trying to understand the workings, but I got some decent material and a ton of wonderful memories. But coming out of the trip, I wanted to ask a few questions. I had a real challenge - even in spectacular visibility - white balancing at depths of 20m or higher. I was frequently getting footage where the water looked purple and the substrate was green. This happened with and without the red filter. I didn't remember to toggle the XV Colour function (it was on the whole time), so I'll try that next time in case that is the problem (though I never had issues with the HC7) - but has anyone else come across this and have any thoughts? Because of the red / green issue, there was no hope of adjusting white balance in IMovie after the fact. I was also having an issue with focussing. I'd do the normal, setting the focus to manual and then pressing the AF / MF button when I wanted to focus on a macro object and then refocus for wide angle. The camera just wasn't responsive but maybe I wasn't doing things right. First I tried pressing and holding the button and then trying to toggle on and off, but without much luck. Could someone walk me through how to do this??? And finally, I had hopes of editing my video with Final Cut Express but looks like it can't handle AVCHD? Any thoughts here? Thx! Rebecca
  8. Hi I got my L&M housing / fathom lens from Scubapix out of Cairns. They are very responsive, knowledgeable and helpful and prices are competitive as L&M prices go, especially if you get more than just the housing and if your friend gets the GST refund when leaving Australia. http://scubapix.com/. Email is info@scubapix.com Peter who is the owner is known to frequent the Wetpixel forums as well..... One thing you need to consider is where you will go for servicing of the camera if and when you require that... For the camera side - I think the best bet there is to find the best deal online and order that way - probably you will have more luck finding a deal (and the camera itself given recent limited supplies) in SE Asia.... I had a bear trying to find my camera, but I think the 520 isn't as bad.... Best Rebecca
  9. Thanks for that. With respect to XV Color, it is definitely an option on the 550. My experience with the HC7 was that having it on helped with the color, but I'll try to do a couple tests with it on and then off to see if there is any marked difference.
  10. Well, as crazy as it sounds, I'd prefer to have a brand new setup versus no setup at all... In any case, I had luck and found an XR550V. So here we go!!! Peter, a couple of questions for you on your camera setup: 1. I've heard a few varying opinions on the steady shot function - do you have yours turned on or off? 2. XV Color - do you have yours on or off? 3. If you know you are going to be in low light conditions underwater, have you ever turned on the "low lux" functionality? 4. What rec mode are you using, HD FX, FD FH, HD HQ or HD LP? Any other key setup items I have missed? Is there a zebra functionality? What about shutter speed? Or have I lost this going from the HC7 to the XR550? Rebecca
  11. While I've been looking for the XR550, I had a quick look at the 700, looks like Sony has changed the form quite a bit from what I could see. Guess that means a new L&M housing and no chance to reuse the existing L&M Bluefin housing, huh? How frustrating!!!
  12. I've liked my HC7 as well. If I had a working external monitor for my HC7 Bluefin Housing, I would definitely stay with it. But since I have had no luck in finding a working replacement for the monitor, I need to move on. This was my intention before this camera problem so doesn't seem like it would make sense to buy another HC7 cam if I'm not going to stick with the set up - in any case I haven't been able to find any HC7 cams online in Oz either... Note that I will be fixing my HC7 cam anyway as I'll then be able to sell it. Its just a shame it can't be ready in time for the trip. Might be going to the Red Sea without anything - I'll just be taking mental videos.....
  13. Sadly no, we are going via Abu Dhabi.... but I wouldn't be surprised if a store couldn't FEDEX / DHL something to Sydney in 1-2 days provided the camera was ready to be shipped now..... Also investigating if I can get a mailing address for our tour agent in Egypt - we are doing a few days of land before the liveaboard, so maybe I could receive it there. oh how convoluted this is becoming!!!! Did you have any ideas?
  14. Funny you should say this - I've just been the recipient of some very bad news - the mechanism in my HC7 is shot and needs to be replaced. This is particularly bad news because they have to order in the parts and I leave on my trip on Friday. So I'm forced to consider doing the 550V / Bluefin upgrade now but I'm searching high and low for a XR or CX550V that someone can get to me in Sydney by Friday before I leave. I have had no luck yet finding anything... Does anyone have any thoughts? I'm even willing to consider a creative solution where the camera gets sent to me in Egypt (not ideal but I'm desperate!!!!)..... HELP!!!
  15. Well, bad news. I took the camera in to my local Sony Service Centre and they tell me the "mechanism" is shot and needs to be replaced which will cost $250 and take a few weeks because they have to order the part. So now I have no camera for my trip. I'm galvanized into overdrive to buy my replacement gear. Scubapix can supply the housing but I am not having any luck finding a Sony XR or CX 550 that can be shipped to Sydney by Friday. Does anyone have any ideas???
  16. Hmm, could you please explain what you mean by "screen out"? Do you mean when the touch screen is flipped so it is facing outwards?
  17. Ahh, that is something new for me. I have my "Steadyshot" turned on. I will turn it off and see if that helps....
  18. Given that I am still quite a newbie to this, I tend to "mis"-navigate my controls on the camera and often have unintentionally switched it from manual to auto focus (I'm trying to instill discipline to check every time I start to film - but its hard to do without a remote monitor on my housing - I either have to peek through a little circle or turn the camera on its side to look at the touch screen - did I mention that I am super keen to upgrade my housing and camera to the newest Sony / Bluefin setup??? Alas, not quite ready financially for that...) Anyway all of this to say that none of my previous footage where it was on auto focus and started "seeking" due to insufficient contrast did it make this juttery look or sound like that.... Oh well, we'll see if the camera lasts through the trip (cross your fingers, I hear some of the diving is unreal...) Otherwise, I'll be getting that new set-up upon my return.... I'll update this thread with the outcome.
  19. I've updated the video to show another time where it starts happening but I'm not really jerking around the camera too much. If you listen closely at the 15 second mark when it goes all juttery, the mechanical recording sound changes slightly - sounds more laboured (I don't use a mike as the plug to my housing doesn't work so you can actually hear the camera workings)... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrl2wXVjhg8
  20. Hmmm.. I'll keep that in mind and hope that is what it is. It's just that this is not the first time I've forgotten to turn off the camera underwater and my previous wild panning footage from it just hanging from my person as I swim has never resulted in this weird waviness until this weekend. I should also note that this weekend there is also footage where I have, after swimming for a while with it hanging from me, recording unintentionally, stabilised the movement of the camera , and hold it right side up, but the juttering continues to occur for at least 10 seconds or more.
  21. I just bought my own pair of Sola 1200s as well and can't wait to stretch their legs on our Red Sea trip. I love that they are only a fraction of the weight of the old L&M Sunray lights, are so much easier to charge and prep, and you can even convert them as needed to a hands-free dive light (just need to buy the wrist strap) - pretty nifty!!! I did hear a story of someone finding a lonely Sola 600 light (minus arm or camera housing) laying on the bottom at one of the dive sites around Sydney a couple of months ago. This tells me that the snap attachment to the arms is not fail safe and, while before there was a battery cord that would be a back up to keep the Sunray light from sinking into the depths, you don't have this luxury anymore. As a result, I've decided to take a bit of string and tie the light heads to the arms about halfway down in case the camera gets banged in a way that knocks the light off.... Might be a once in a blue moon occurrence but I don't want to take my chances...
  22. Hi folks, Just trying to diagnose an issue that I had with my HC7 camera (Bluefin housing) this weekend. I'd like to know if it is a once off or if it is something to be concerned about - especially given we are leaving for a Red Sea dive trip this Friday... I was reviewing some footage and noticed that towards the end of the dive some footage looked very blurry / jerky - almost as if the tape head was misaligned or something. The camera would do this for a while and then clear up after I moved the housing and then get blurry again after moving the housing again. The only thing different that happened on this dive compared to others is that when I opened my housing, I did notice that the desiccant pack that I regularly put in my camera had moved back in the housing to be wedged between the camera and the right hand plastic piece (I think it is the infrared receptor that aligns with the camera handle???) The other slightly weird thing was that, in setting up for the dive, I couldn't get my one push white balance to work inside the housing - it seems like everything had shifted slightly right on the touch screen. I've had my flip screen come out of alignment before, though in this case I hadn't made any adjustments to the camera since last using it, so not sure why it happened. In any case, I tried to re-calibrate and thought I had it sorted but when I was underwater it didn't work again. So as a backup then I selected auto white balance and then the camera wouldn't let me select one push after that. Weird... I've uploaded a bit of the footage so you can see what I'm talking about - sorry about the footage - it's all rubbish shots (forgot to turn camera off) but it is useful to show the jerkiness and then how, after moving the camera slightly (about 10 second in to the video), it clears up again. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_kImkfADG68 Has anyone seen this sort of thing before? Is it probably the floating desiccant pack or is this the beginning of the end for my camera?? Thanks Rebecca
  23. Thanks for all the input. We've taken the leap and bought the Macbook Pro with the specs as I outlined them in my initial post and we went with the 256 GB SSD - Delivery in less than a week. We will buy a few scratch disks, etc to boost the storage space -and need to find out more about this Thunderbolt technology and how we should use it. Stay tuned...
  24. Just to clarify, I wouldn't consider installing the SSD after purchase, I'd specify that when ordering from Apple... and yes quite pricey with the trade-off of less data storage....
  25. Good question - because I was told that I would want it - it consumes less power, had no moving parts, processes more quickly... and it is the "wave of the future" - that once the cost issue is worked out, everyone will want one of these... Should I not be drinking this kool-aid?
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