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chipi

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chipi last won the day on July 13 2016

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About chipi

  • Rank
    Triggerfish
  • Birthday 01/17/1978

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.markodragoljevic.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Amsterdam

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Yugoslavia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikonos V, Nikon D700, Nikon D850
  • Camera Housing
    Sea & Sea MDX PRO D700, MDX D850
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS250PRO
  1. Hello all I have Kenko TC 1.4 PRO 300 DGX. Recently I have seen that Kenko has rolled out a new replacement: HD PRO DGX. I used to shoot PRO 300 DGX on Nikon D700 with Nikon 16mm fisheye and recently I have moved to Nikon D850 and Nikon 8-15 fisheye. My understanding is that HD PRO DGX is rolled out to better support new generation of high resolution camera such as D8xx and therefore is a better suitable solution. I know that PRO 300 DGX came after PRO 300 DG and fixed issues with not being able to work on newer cameras (D500, D850 I believe) in combination with Nikon 8-15 fisheye (there are other posts about incompatibility here on Wetpixel) BUT I am not sure if DGX also contributes to supporting better high resolution cameras from optics perspective or just fixes connectivity issues? So, a word of advice is needed: should I stick with Kenko PRO 300 DGX or move onto HD PRO DGX? Thanks, Marko
  2. Hey all. Recently I moved onto Nikon D850 from D700. I used to carry with me Sigma 15mm for CFWA and Nikon 16mm for everything else. Now I got Nikon 8-15 mm fisheye with the idea to get the latest and greatest, but also to replace these two since it also focuses very close. What is the verdict from people who moved on to Nikon 8-15 fisheye? Is it a viable replacement for both Sigma 15mm for CFWA and Nikon 16mm and no need to stick with old lenses? Thanks, Marko
  3. Hi everyone! Long time ago I stopped using Ikelite system and selling now all parts of that system. This dome assembly (port + port body) I have bought after my second trip back then. After that I moved on another system and kept this one in closet to slowly lose value :-) I am based in Amsterdam, NL and ideally selling to EU buyer, but open to sell and ship worldwide. Shipping and handling is extra and price depends on option. I am OK with selling separately dome port from extension. Send me offers on PM. Discount on buying all together. In general 8" dome kit consists of two parts: Ikelite 8" dome assembly # 5510.45 Depending on the lens used a Ikelite port body of the correct size 1.Ikelite Modular 8-inch Dome for FL Port Systems 5510.45 - 260e This dome looks very good, around 30 dives only with it. There are some minor signs of usage, but nothing that would impact on image quality . This Dome is not compatible with the newer Dry Lock (DL) port system. Specifications: - Acrylic dome with aluminum base - Weighs 3.94 lb (1.79 kg) Included Dome Dome shade # 5510.04 Neoprene front cover # 0200.82 Silicone lubricant # 0184.1 2. Ikelite FL Port Extension (Port Body) 5510.22 - 130e A popular Modular Lens Extension for use with many longer length zoom lenses. The extension threads onto the base of either the Modular 8-inch Dome or the Modular Glass Flat Front for simple assembly and use in a wide variety of applications. The port body Ikelite # 5510.22 is also suitable for use in combination with the Ikelite Modular Flat Glass Front # 5510.35. Accommodates lenses up to 4.125-inch (10.5 cm) long and 3.3-inch (8.4 cm) in diameter when used with the Modular 8-inch Dome. Accommodates lenses up to 4-inch (10.2 cm) long when used with the Modular Glass Flat Front. Included: - Extension - O-ring to housing # 0105 - O-ring to front # 0132.41
  4. Hi everyone! Long time ago I stopped using Ikelite system and selling now all parts of that system. After that I moved on another system and kept this one in closet to slowly lose value :-) I am based in Amsterdam, NL and ideally selling to EU buyer, but open to sell and ship worldwide. Shipping and handling is extra and price depends on option. I am OK with selling separately housing from ports. Send me offers on PM. Discount on buying all together. 1. Ikelite Underwater TTL Housing for Nikon D70 and D70s - for 260e This housing looks excellent, I had around 30 dives only with it. There are some minor signs of usage, nothing more. Ikelite part number 6807.1 This Ikelite housing for the Nikon D70 and D70S allows TTL operation with Ikelite digital SubStrobes when connected to the housing's bulkhead by a sync cord. The circuitry provides four 1/3 f/stop increments over or under flash compensation to be added to or subtracted from any compensation entered into the camera. Eight manual power settings in half-stop increments allow for complete creative control. All this is controlled by pushing a button on the back of the housing. It is iTTL compatible with DS-125 and DS-50 digital strobes. The housing is rated to a depth of 200' (60m). Included: Housing Tray Handles (from another brand with integrated ball joints for strobe arms) Spare o-rings, grease and some default Ikelite bits from the original package. 2. Ikelite SLR Dome Port for Nikkor 28-105mm - 110e I myself never used it. Ikelite part number 5503.81 Domes are recommended for lenses 28mm and wider to preserve the full angle of coverage. Zoom lenses that do not focus to 12 inches (30 cm) require a +4 diopter close-up lens. This port is specifically designed for Nikon 28-105 mm D macro. Included: Dome port O-ring # 0105 Neoprene cover Spare o-ring and grease Lens Zoom ring (clamp + sleeve) for Nikon 28-105 lens (#0073, #9059.8) 3. Ikelite 6 inch SLR Dome Port - 110e I used it less then 10 times. Ikelite part number 5503.55 Accommodates lenses up to 4.5-inch (11.4 cm) long and 3.3-inch (8.4 cm) in diameter. Example is Nikkor AF-S DX Zoom 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G but some other lenses are fine as well. Ikelite acrylic domes are injection molded specifically for underwater photography, and represent the finest optics in the industry. Domes are recommended for lenses 28mm and wider to preserve the full angle of coverage. Zoom lenses that do not focus to 12 inches (30 cm) require a +4 diopter close-up lens. Included: Dome port O-ring # 0105 Neoprene cover # 0200.1 Spare o-ring and grease Lens Zoom ring (clamp + sleeve) for Nikkor AF-S DX Zoom 18-70mm lens (#5509.28)
  5. On another note, or as some of us would say in Post Mortem, when I fixed the wiring I noted that out of 2 bulkheads I had, 1 was wired for TTL with all 5 wires and anothe rone was wired for manual with 2 wires only. When I was installing leak detector, i took out bulkhead with ... 2 wires, so actually with little luck it could all work out of box if I new in advance how wiring is done inside housing.
  6. Problem solved through using excellent article at http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=58on how to troubleshoot strobes wiring. Solution was to leave only 2 relevant pins on hot show connector.
  7. Hey guys Need a word of advice. I have Nikon D700 in Sea&Sea housing and using 250s through optical cable. Now, I want to switch to wired cable and skip converter since really just need manual mode and not interested in TTL. But, when I connect everything, flash indicator is blinking on camera's top screen and it does not want to fire. Did I messup some wiring inside housing or I need to make some adjustments to wiring since skipping converter. I see that d800 inside nauticam on 250s works with just cables out of box. Cheers, Marko
  8. Hey all After the trip is done and fresh water soaking is done and everything is put apart, what do you do to maintain your gear: housing, arms, threads ...and make sure housng is ready for few months in closet or is ready for the next trip? No matter how good fresh water soaking is, there will always be some salt in some of the threads, who knows how those buttons are looking from inside ... What do you do? I am sure some of you have routine you can share? Also, do you use some grease to lube up threads on arm joints and between housing and grips before the trip? Cheers, Marko
  9. Hey all I am wrapping up setup of Nikon 16-35 for my D700 in Sea&Sea housing and need to make a decision on extension size. I plan to use Sea&Sea 240 dome. Extension size seems to be the key for sharpness based on information I have found here and at other places so I am taking some time to make a decision here. I see people using the following extensions for this lens on variety of FF Nikon cameras, housings and ports: 1. 60mm - default Hugyfot solution for 8'' dome port 2. 63.5mm - default Aquatica solution for 9.25'' dome port 3. 70mm - default Nauticam solution for 8.5 '' dome port + have seen people with Sea&Sea housing using exactly this size with some custom solutions for Zen 230 4. 80mm - default Sea&Sea solution (as 2 times 40mm extension) for my exact dome --> manufacturer recommended solution 5. 90mm - default Subal solution as one 90mm extension for Subal big dome ports I do understand that each setup is specific, but still I am not sure what is the best option for my setup. Sea&Sea recommendation is I believe based on the fact that they have only 40mm and 20mm extensions and therefore this could be perceived as best compromise and not really best overall solution. 70mm is just below and 90mm is just above so I am really considering these along 80mm to be maybe the best option and willing to stretch for an extra mile if needed to get there. I can not experiment so what I decide now will most probably be what I will use on the next 2 trips I have in next 2 months. 1. Does anyone has real-life experience with Nikon 16-35, Sea&Sea housing and Sea&Sea 240 dome? 2. Does anyone without this specific setup has a solid opinion on what I should use for my setup? 3. What do you think of combining 2 Sea&Sea extensions without lock since that looks like a bit risky to me? Thanks, Marko
  10. Alternative option and maybe only one for you is to set the 2nd strobe (problematic one) on slave mode and make sure the first one is triggering it since it's cable is working fine. This implies that manual settings for the power should be used.
  11. Thanks all, for now I will go with acrylic since it is very small investment and then I will see in in next 2 years where it will get me. It is really interesting how there is no one unified view on this question even being one of the essential ones.
  12. Since visiting Red Sea for the first time, my advice is do it from Egypt and I think no need for the Sudan adventure (not so easy to get there, safety and eventually value when cross compared to specific parts of Egypt IMHO). Again, for the first time visitors, I strongly advise liveaboards from Sharm or Marsa Alam and not Hurghada or other places due to routes. From Sharm you have "North" routes and access to Ras Mohammed and best wrecks which are just pure heaven for underwater photography. Choose your season carefully since crossings depends on weather. After "North" routes, I suggest "South" ones starting from Marsa Alam in variety of several specific destinations. I did liveaboard from Hurghada twice and I think never again but almost yearly I am back to North/South routes.. I suggest you to do your own homework and refer maybe to Alex Mustard's Red Sea photo workshops, as well as other photo workshops (Duxy's maybe) or just regular trips by UK dive operator he uses (skipping name but 1 min googling will reveal name). Also, don't underestimate the quality of liveaboards since they vary so choose a bit more expensive option just to be sure you'll be happy. Being keen on photography, there is a big difference in how liveaboards and their crews complement your needs. And yes, check my UW portfolio at http://www.markodragoljevic.com/underwater_photography/ for photos from Res Sea North route from last year while on Alex Mustard workshop
  13. Hey!!! I need few opinions to help me make final decision on purchase. I have Nikon D700 and Sea&Sea housing for it. Until now was shooting with Sigma 15mm in medium size glass dome (Optical Dome Port 7.2 inch). For the upcoming trips I am about to start using Nikon 16-35 and I think I need bigger dome for it to manage corner sharpness. Therefore I have decided to get a new dome. Option 1: Fisheye Dome Port 240, acrylic made, 10 inch - around 700USD Option 2: Zen DP-230 Superdome, 10 inch - around 1900 USD Price difference is around 1:3 What do I get/loose? Option 1 Pros: - 3 times cheaper - more lightweight Option 1 cons: - easier to scratch - not so good for split shots Currently I am leaning toward Option 1. What do you think and what would you advise me? Note: I am not a pro and 100 dives per year is Mt. Everest to me :-( Thanks, Marko
  14. Do you guys have a rule of thumb when to change o-rings even when no visible defects are present? Why ... I guess o-rings can lose elasticity and some other quality without noticeable visual marks that would indicate that, but not 100% sure on what to do. So, if we assume that t looks good, but is old for let's say 2-3 years ... what to do? In past, with Nikonos this is what I would do exactly ... just to be sure.
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