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chipi

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chipi last won the day on July 13 2016

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About chipi

  • Rank
    Triggerfish
  • Birthday 01/17/1978

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.markodragoljevic.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Amsterdam

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Yugoslavia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikonos V, Nikon D700, Nikon D850
  • Camera Housing
    Sea & Sea MDX PRO D700, MDX D850
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS250PRO

Recent Profile Visitors

3429 profile views
  1. Thanks Chris. This is exactly what I needed somebody to confirm. I also did not know that baykent ring is available on its own. Phil, two things here: - I want to buy used dome and save some money buy ther are never S&S ones on the used market, but Nauticam ones do show up from time to time - I have now converted 30mm extension so I can have 70mm combo (with regular 40mm) for my 16-35, but for fisheye I do not need 30mm one, and would use 20mm, so I am looking for a solution that skips me coverting and having another 20mm extension ring
  2. Hello team. I am looking for an advice on potentially fittting Zen 230 dome port with the Nauticam ring onto Sea & Sea housing. In general, I want to buy a used Zen 230 port for my Sea & Sea housing, but almost no Sea & Sea ones appear, on classifieds so I am thinking of getting a Naticam one since they do appear and than just change the port fitting (ring) since I think screw holes should match. I did this already on extension ports and use Nauticam’s 30mm extension on Sea&Sea setup. What do you think? Did anyone do this on Zen dome ports? Cheers, Marko
  3. Hi team Wetpixel ;-) I already went through all the posts on mini dome use cases and they all clear. But, I want to toss in my specific use case and see what you would recommend. I ask since some of these dives are difficult to do so I don't have many opportunities for try and test approach that I would normally do. - I am going to take some wreck shots at about 60-100m depth. - I will use new Nikon 8-15 fisheye on D850. - As for shooting, no split shot opportunities. Also I don't really see value of corner sharpness on these dives so will compromise here. Instead, I will focus on framing the entire wreck with ambient light in blue, getting some flash lighted parts of wreck in the foreground while rest of the wreck and blue is in the background or really just some CFWA with details or fish and again parts of the wreck and blue in the background. - Large dome port was too bulky for me with rebreather, stages and rest of the dive kit so I took with me now only 4 inch mini dome and 7 inch glass dome What do you think will work better: 4 or 7 inch dome? Is there an obvious better choice? My main use case is natural light ... or traces of it down there :-) if I have to choose one. Thanks, Marko
  4. Thanks Chris for detailed comments. All makes sence. Cheers!
  5. Hi everyone I am planning of getting either 2 remote trigger sensors I can just just put at the end of the (long) Nikonos cable or just get full assemblies (trigger plus cable). Goal is to trigger remote strobes as slaves through these triggers since strobes would be hidden and built-in slave sensors would not be triggered. Now, I have no clue how market has evolved, what is out there and how adopted those products are, what is expected price range and what is an overkill price, so maybe somebody has first hand experience with this topic and can run us through quick overview and comparison of current 2020 options. Thanks, Marko
  6. Hi everyone. I am on my way to spend more and more time in 60-100m range of depth in sea with my Nikon D850 in Sea & Sea housing and I am curious what are some extra considerations about the gear, tips and tricks and/or whatever knowledge that could be useful to make sure my kit survives :-) and I get good shots. Example: 1. Electrical va optical cables. I use electrical. 2. How big vacuum to set? I started pulling out more air with pump when going deep. 3. What do you think of survivability of extra connections like bulkheads for strobes, vacuum ventil etc 4. What about condensation inside and temperature ranges? 5. Acrylic va glass dome ports in terms of strength and depth rating 6. Depth rating of viewfinder assemblies? 7. How much should I trust that small plastic window on back of the housing. Looks vert fragile even if housing is 100m rated 8. What does it really mean 100m rated? Tested to 150m so definitlly good on 100m? 9. What about ambiental exposure in those low light conditions down there. Sometimes it is pitch black and no blues. How far to go with ISO and get still a good compromise on size of the grain/noise And so on and on. Maybe for somebody this is a routine and some proven tips are just around the corner. Thanks, Marko
  7. Hello all I am looking for a word of advice on how to clean up the pins inside of my bulkhead. Over the time, inside of my bulkhead started looking bad. Seems I was not really careful and did not clean often on between dives and they got stuff on then. What should I do now? How to get to factory shine of pins :-) In terms of moving forward, do you use some lubricant to protect the pins, like maybe DeoxIT Gold? I see it is very used by rebreather divers for pins on controller bulkheads. Thanks, Marko
  8. Hello all I have Kenko TC 1.4 PRO 300 DGX. Recently I have seen that Kenko has rolled out a new replacement: HD PRO DGX. I used to shoot PRO 300 DGX on Nikon D700 with Nikon 16mm fisheye and recently I have moved to Nikon D850 and Nikon 8-15 fisheye. My understanding is that HD PRO DGX is rolled out to better support new generation of high resolution camera such as D8xx and therefore is a better suitable solution. I know that PRO 300 DGX came after PRO 300 DG and fixed issues with not being able to work on newer cameras (D500, D850 I believe) in combination with Nikon 8-15 fisheye (there are other posts about incompatibility here on Wetpixel) BUT I am not sure if DGX also contributes to supporting better high resolution cameras from optics perspective or just fixes connectivity issues? So, a word of advice is needed: should I stick with Kenko PRO 300 DGX or move onto HD PRO DGX? Thanks, Marko
  9. Hey all. Recently I moved onto Nikon D850 from D700. I used to carry with me Sigma 15mm for CFWA and Nikon 16mm for everything else. Now I got Nikon 8-15 mm fisheye with the idea to get the latest and greatest, but also to replace these two since it also focuses very close. What is the verdict from people who moved on to Nikon 8-15 fisheye? Is it a viable replacement for both Sigma 15mm for CFWA and Nikon 16mm and no need to stick with old lenses? Thanks, Marko
  10. Hi everyone! Long time ago I stopped using Ikelite system and selling now all parts of that system. This dome assembly (port + port body) I have bought after my second trip back then. After that I moved on another system and kept this one in closet to slowly lose value :-) I am based in Amsterdam, NL and ideally selling to EU buyer, but open to sell and ship worldwide. Shipping and handling is extra and price depends on option. I am OK with selling separately dome port from extension. Send me offers on PM. Discount on buying all together. In general 8" dome kit consists of two parts: Ikelite 8" dome assembly # 5510.45 Depending on the lens used a Ikelite port body of the correct size 1.Ikelite Modular 8-inch Dome for FL Port Systems 5510.45 - 260e This dome looks very good, around 30 dives only with it. There are some minor signs of usage, but nothing that would impact on image quality . This Dome is not compatible with the newer Dry Lock (DL) port system. Specifications: - Acrylic dome with aluminum base - Weighs 3.94 lb (1.79 kg) Included Dome Dome shade # 5510.04 Neoprene front cover # 0200.82 Silicone lubricant # 0184.1 2. Ikelite FL Port Extension (Port Body) 5510.22 - 130e A popular Modular Lens Extension for use with many longer length zoom lenses. The extension threads onto the base of either the Modular 8-inch Dome or the Modular Glass Flat Front for simple assembly and use in a wide variety of applications. The port body Ikelite # 5510.22 is also suitable for use in combination with the Ikelite Modular Flat Glass Front # 5510.35. Accommodates lenses up to 4.125-inch (10.5 cm) long and 3.3-inch (8.4 cm) in diameter when used with the Modular 8-inch Dome. Accommodates lenses up to 4-inch (10.2 cm) long when used with the Modular Glass Flat Front. Included: - Extension - O-ring to housing # 0105 - O-ring to front # 0132.41
  11. Hi everyone! Long time ago I stopped using Ikelite system and selling now all parts of that system. After that I moved on another system and kept this one in closet to slowly lose value :-) I am based in Amsterdam, NL and ideally selling to EU buyer, but open to sell and ship worldwide. Shipping and handling is extra and price depends on option. I am OK with selling separately housing from ports. Send me offers on PM. Discount on buying all together. 1. Ikelite Underwater TTL Housing for Nikon D70 and D70s - for 260e This housing looks excellent, I had around 30 dives only with it. There are some minor signs of usage, nothing more. Ikelite part number 6807.1 This Ikelite housing for the Nikon D70 and D70S allows TTL operation with Ikelite digital SubStrobes when connected to the housing's bulkhead by a sync cord. The circuitry provides four 1/3 f/stop increments over or under flash compensation to be added to or subtracted from any compensation entered into the camera. Eight manual power settings in half-stop increments allow for complete creative control. All this is controlled by pushing a button on the back of the housing. It is iTTL compatible with DS-125 and DS-50 digital strobes. The housing is rated to a depth of 200' (60m). Included: Housing Tray Handles (from another brand with integrated ball joints for strobe arms) Spare o-rings, grease and some default Ikelite bits from the original package. 2. Ikelite SLR Dome Port for Nikkor 28-105mm - 110e I myself never used it. Ikelite part number 5503.81 Domes are recommended for lenses 28mm and wider to preserve the full angle of coverage. Zoom lenses that do not focus to 12 inches (30 cm) require a +4 diopter close-up lens. This port is specifically designed for Nikon 28-105 mm D macro. Included: Dome port O-ring # 0105 Neoprene cover Spare o-ring and grease Lens Zoom ring (clamp + sleeve) for Nikon 28-105 lens (#0073, #9059.8) 3. Ikelite 6 inch SLR Dome Port - 110e I used it less then 10 times. Ikelite part number 5503.55 Accommodates lenses up to 4.5-inch (11.4 cm) long and 3.3-inch (8.4 cm) in diameter. Example is Nikkor AF-S DX Zoom 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G but some other lenses are fine as well. Ikelite acrylic domes are injection molded specifically for underwater photography, and represent the finest optics in the industry. Domes are recommended for lenses 28mm and wider to preserve the full angle of coverage. Zoom lenses that do not focus to 12 inches (30 cm) require a +4 diopter close-up lens. Included: Dome port O-ring # 0105 Neoprene cover # 0200.1 Spare o-ring and grease Lens Zoom ring (clamp + sleeve) for Nikkor AF-S DX Zoom 18-70mm lens (#5509.28)
  12. On another note, or as some of us would say in Post Mortem, when I fixed the wiring I noted that out of 2 bulkheads I had, 1 was wired for TTL with all 5 wires and anothe rone was wired for manual with 2 wires only. When I was installing leak detector, i took out bulkhead with ... 2 wires, so actually with little luck it could all work out of box if I new in advance how wiring is done inside housing.
  13. Problem solved through using excellent article at http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=58on how to troubleshoot strobes wiring. Solution was to leave only 2 relevant pins on hot show connector.
  14. Hey guys Need a word of advice. I have Nikon D700 in Sea&Sea housing and using 250s through optical cable. Now, I want to switch to wired cable and skip converter since really just need manual mode and not interested in TTL. But, when I connect everything, flash indicator is blinking on camera's top screen and it does not want to fire. Did I messup some wiring inside housing or I need to make some adjustments to wiring since skipping converter. I see that d800 inside nauticam on 250s works with just cables out of box. Cheers, Marko
  15. Hey all After the trip is done and fresh water soaking is done and everything is put apart, what do you do to maintain your gear: housing, arms, threads ...and make sure housng is ready for few months in closet or is ready for the next trip? No matter how good fresh water soaking is, there will always be some salt in some of the threads, who knows how those buttons are looking from inside ... What do you do? I am sure some of you have routine you can share? Also, do you use some grease to lube up threads on arm joints and between housing and grips before the trip? Cheers, Marko
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