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chipi last won the day on July 13 2016

chipi had the most liked content!

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About chipi

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  • Birthday 01/17/1978

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikonos V, Nikon D700, Nikon D850
  • Camera Housing
    Sea & Sea MDX PRO D700, MDX D850
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea & Sea YS250PRO

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  1. Is your 70mm Nauticam port extension still available?


    Philip Bonds (Tinman)

  2. Hi everyone I am trying to be very pragmatic (read lazy) and figure out how muxh of float arm bouyancy I need to get my kit neutral, or close to neutral in sea water. I have Nikon D850 in S&S housing with 45 VF and 230 glass Zen domeport as well as 2 Inon z330s. Mostly fisheye setup (8-15) but occasionally 16-35 and then some extensions as well. Sometines I use smaller dome ports as well. I already have a pair of Nauticam carbon floating arms and need more. But how much more exactly? Maybe somebody has similar setup and did all homework (how much grams of bouyancy, measure weight of setup in water etc) and I can just copy/paste :-) Thanks, Marko
  3. Hi everyone Spring cleaning time. I am based out of Netherlands so good opportunity for buyers in EU, but I am will to ship worldwide at buyers cost. I am selling: Nauticam N120 Extension Ring 30 with lock [21130] - 315 EUR + shipping Nauticam N120 Extension Ring 70 with lock [21170] - 265 EUR + shipping Both extension rings come with bayonet cover. 30 one comes also with original box - if anyone cares about that at all :-) As you all know, no mechanical parts here ... so it just works :-) Discount if buyer buys both extension rings and also gets Nauticam bayonet gratis (50 USD new). Best offers on PM. Add will be here for a few weeks and then off to eBay.
  4. Thanks Chris. This is exactly what I needed somebody to confirm. I also did not know that baykent ring is available on its own. Phil, two things here: - I want to buy used dome and save some money buy ther are never S&S ones on the used market, but Nauticam ones do show up from time to time - I have now converted 30mm extension so I can have 70mm combo (with regular 40mm) for my 16-35, but for fisheye I do not need 30mm one, and would use 20mm, so I am looking for a solution that skips me coverting and having another 20mm extension ring
  5. Hello team. I am looking for an advice on potentially fittting Zen 230 dome port with the Nauticam ring onto Sea & Sea housing. In general, I want to buy a used Zen 230 port for my Sea & Sea housing, but almost no Sea & Sea ones appear, on classifieds so I am thinking of getting a Naticam one since they do appear and than just change the port fitting (ring) since I think screw holes should match. I did this already on extension ports and use Nauticam’s 30mm extension on Sea&Sea setup. What do you think? Did anyone do this on Zen dome ports? Cheers, Marko
  6. Hi team Wetpixel ;-) I already went through all the posts on mini dome use cases and they all clear. But, I want to toss in my specific use case and see what you would recommend. I ask since some of these dives are difficult to do so I don't have many opportunities for try and test approach that I would normally do. - I am going to take some wreck shots at about 60-100m depth. - I will use new Nikon 8-15 fisheye on D850. - As for shooting, no split shot opportunities. Also I don't really see value of corner sharpness on these dives so will compromise here. Instead, I will focus on framing the entire wreck with ambient light in blue, getting some flash lighted parts of wreck in the foreground while rest of the wreck and blue is in the background or really just some CFWA with details or fish and again parts of the wreck and blue in the background. - Large dome port was too bulky for me with rebreather, stages and rest of the dive kit so I took with me now only 4 inch mini dome and 7 inch glass dome What do you think will work better: 4 or 7 inch dome? Is there an obvious better choice? My main use case is natural light ... or traces of it down there :-) if I have to choose one. Thanks, Marko
  7. Thanks Chris for detailed comments. All makes sence. Cheers!
  8. Hi everyone I am planning of getting either 2 remote trigger sensors I can just just put at the end of the (long) Nikonos cable or just get full assemblies (trigger plus cable). Goal is to trigger remote strobes as slaves through these triggers since strobes would be hidden and built-in slave sensors would not be triggered. Now, I have no clue how market has evolved, what is out there and how adopted those products are, what is expected price range and what is an overkill price, so maybe somebody has first hand experience with this topic and can run us through quick overview and comparison of current 2020 options. Thanks, Marko
  9. Hi everyone. I am on my way to spend more and more time in 60-100m range of depth in sea with my Nikon D850 in Sea & Sea housing and I am curious what are some extra considerations about the gear, tips and tricks and/or whatever knowledge that could be useful to make sure my kit survives :-) and I get good shots. Example: 1. Electrical va optical cables. I use electrical. 2. How big vacuum to set? I started pulling out more air with pump when going deep. 3. What do you think of survivability of extra connections like bulkheads for strobes, vacuum ventil etc 4. What about condensation inside and temperature ranges? 5. Acrylic va glass dome ports in terms of strength and depth rating 6. Depth rating of viewfinder assemblies? 7. How much should I trust that small plastic window on back of the housing. Looks vert fragile even if housing is 100m rated 8. What does it really mean 100m rated? Tested to 150m so definitlly good on 100m? 9. What about ambiental exposure in those low light conditions down there. Sometimes it is pitch black and no blues. How far to go with ISO and get still a good compromise on size of the grain/noise And so on and on. Maybe for somebody this is a routine and some proven tips are just around the corner. Thanks, Marko
  10. Hello all I am looking for a word of advice on how to clean up the pins inside of my bulkhead. Over the time, inside of my bulkhead started looking bad. Seems I was not really careful and did not clean often on between dives and they got stuff on then. What should I do now? How to get to factory shine of pins :-) In terms of moving forward, do you use some lubricant to protect the pins, like maybe DeoxIT Gold? I see it is very used by rebreather divers for pins on controller bulkheads. Thanks, Marko
  11. Hello all I have Kenko TC 1.4 PRO 300 DGX. Recently I have seen that Kenko has rolled out a new replacement: HD PRO DGX. I used to shoot PRO 300 DGX on Nikon D700 with Nikon 16mm fisheye and recently I have moved to Nikon D850 and Nikon 8-15 fisheye. My understanding is that HD PRO DGX is rolled out to better support new generation of high resolution camera such as D8xx and therefore is a better suitable solution. I know that PRO 300 DGX came after PRO 300 DG and fixed issues with not being able to work on newer cameras (D500, D850 I believe) in combination with Nikon 8-15 fisheye (there are other posts about incompatibility here on Wetpixel) BUT I am not sure if DGX also contributes to supporting better high resolution cameras from optics perspective or just fixes connectivity issues? So, a word of advice is needed: should I stick with Kenko PRO 300 DGX or move onto HD PRO DGX? Thanks, Marko
  12. Hey all. Recently I moved onto Nikon D850 from D700. I used to carry with me Sigma 15mm for CFWA and Nikon 16mm for everything else. Now I got Nikon 8-15 mm fisheye with the idea to get the latest and greatest, but also to replace these two since it also focuses very close. What is the verdict from people who moved on to Nikon 8-15 fisheye? Is it a viable replacement for both Sigma 15mm for CFWA and Nikon 16mm and no need to stick with old lenses? Thanks, Marko
  13. Hi everyone! Long time ago I stopped using Ikelite system and selling now all parts of that system. This dome assembly (port + port body) I have bought after my second trip back then. After that I moved on another system and kept this one in closet to slowly lose value :-) I am based in Amsterdam, NL and ideally selling to EU buyer, but open to sell and ship worldwide. Shipping and handling is extra and price depends on option. I am OK with selling separately dome port from extension. Send me offers on PM. Discount on buying all together. In general 8" dome kit consists of two parts: Ikelite 8" dome assembly # 5510.45 Depending on the lens used a Ikelite port body of the correct size 1.Ikelite Modular 8-inch Dome for FL Port Systems 5510.45 - 260e This dome looks very good, around 30 dives only with it. There are some minor signs of usage, but nothing that would impact on image quality . This Dome is not compatible with the newer Dry Lock (DL) port system. Specifications: - Acrylic dome with aluminum base - Weighs 3.94 lb (1.79 kg) Included Dome Dome shade # 5510.04 Neoprene front cover # 0200.82 Silicone lubricant # 0184.1 2. Ikelite FL Port Extension (Port Body) 5510.22 - 130e A popular Modular Lens Extension for use with many longer length zoom lenses. The extension threads onto the base of either the Modular 8-inch Dome or the Modular Glass Flat Front for simple assembly and use in a wide variety of applications. The port body Ikelite # 5510.22 is also suitable for use in combination with the Ikelite Modular Flat Glass Front # 5510.35. Accommodates lenses up to 4.125-inch (10.5 cm) long and 3.3-inch (8.4 cm) in diameter when used with the Modular 8-inch Dome. Accommodates lenses up to 4-inch (10.2 cm) long when used with the Modular Glass Flat Front. Included: - Extension - O-ring to housing # 0105 - O-ring to front # 0132.41
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