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Everything posted by PRC

  1. PRC

    10-17 Nikon Fit

    Ha, Gee thanks Tim, Guess I have a Type 4 Subal zoom ring as well, Forgot about that ! Paul C
  2. PRC

    10-17 Nikon Fit

    For Sale Standard issue Nikon fit Tokina 10-17 fish eye lens. No marks, scratches or other issues. 250 GBP plus insured shipping at cost. Paul C
  3. Regardless, It is going to be a handfull in the water though Tim. The AF on my D800 is better than the D300 but in the water I find the 105/D300 bad enough - chuck in a load more mag and what, one and a half or two stops of light loss ? Alex could make a box brownie work in the water so don't take any notice of him. Paul C
  4. My annual travel policy (£120 year) covered my last trip that went south due to the diagnosis of a family member (father) with terminal cancer.
  5. It is tempting to say "yea it is Subtronic - that is the problem" but guessing that may not be seen as helpful..... Sounds to me as if the camera electronics is coming in to play, I.E. the camera 'thinks' the strobe is not yet 'ready'. To confirm this fire the strobe disconnected from the camera by shorting out the appropriate pins on the connector, if it does fire whenever the ready light is on then it must be cable or camera setup. If you are trying to use TTL then I would say that this is most certainly the case. Could also be the cable again if using TTL that is quite possible. Think also that on my D300 there are some plug changes in the housing for manual / TTL ( I only set it to manual and ran away as TTL was not for me ), might be worth checking if that is similar in the D3 (bet it is). Paul C
  6. For one I am still not buying the 'because it is difficult it must be somehow better' angle. If and when you can demonstrate a superior image that can be attributed to the fundamental format or media used then maybe it is worth the effort - up until then I am not convinced. Where next ? put up an easel and get the tubes of oil paint out of the box while in the water ? - would that crank up the 'difficulty' ? Well yes it would, however would the end result be better because of it ? Well it would be different that is for sure. Show us and we can all make the judgement call. Paul C
  7. Look at the latest 105, while the VR is not a lot of use in the water it works well on land. Optically the current 105 is good and the best bit is the fast (HSM) focusing system. The older versions of this lens with the slower motors were not so great to use in the water. FWIW many use only autofocus with this lens (in the water), saving money on the port requirement. Paul C
  8. And others that produce jaw dropping images that are impossible without technology. Focus stacked macro for instance :- http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=16018 http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15703 http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15792 http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15794 None of the above (I believe) could be obtained without serious amounts of 'manipulation' - whatever that means. They represent a view that is not possible with conventional technology - but in many ways just overcome the mechanical and physics limitations of the camera and lens. Paul C
  9. Find stick and poke vigorously into an ants nest then Alex ! No large scale edits may not be justified Alex, however commercially you need to do whatever it takes or you are taking up too much space out there on the edge..... I never had the slide 'hang up', I gave up picture taking on land in the film days when I felt that sending the film in for processing put the end result out of my control, having 'lost' control I lost interest and gave up - enter digital. With the D800 (which is going to be big - maybe as big as the D70 was for Nikon, which saved them financially) then large amounts of cropping may well become the viable norm - as long as your technique and dome etc achieves razor sharp focus on the original frame. Regardless of how the end result is achieved the value is in the final image perception by the viewer. There will always be a place in the market for good imaginative images - which is what you produce and sell and I do not. Paul C
  10. What's with the regularly spaced vertical lines ? Maybe a scanner issue. I have never shot film in the water but am concerned about housing a full frame 35mm let alone trying to make a large format function behind a dome. The weak link in imaging under water is not the format / resolution / film used, it remains the water column effects / dome (air) interface and most often the ugly lump of biomass behind the viewfinder. Jeff is correct this one is not quite there yet as a wall hanger here is a real wall hanger ! Don't think I am buying yours quite yet..... Paul C
  11. Well deserved - stunning as per usual. Paul C
  12. And given the file sizes there will be time advantages in making selections based on the jpg. Just how big these files will get during processing will be fun - my D300 raw files regularly balloon to 200Mb inside CS5. Paul C (D800 on order)
  13. Suspect you are right Steve. But there will be an upgrade path LR3 to LR4 so it should be a cost effective entry to LR4 anyhow. Paul C
  14. Also check Adobe site direct - they have been running this offer all month ! Paul C
  15. Wow Paul what a find! That is a lot of app for the price - guy must have displaced a decimal point somewhere. Thanks, Paul C
  16. Ah remember it well do you John ? - years before photoshopping / inflation of such 'assets' became the norm. Have to go careful here or we will be dragging Jeff in for a professional assessment...... Paul C
  17. Take strobe(s) if you can, you need them at about 1/4 power for fill light. If it is overcast you will need them period. Couple of other tips :- Don't let the shutter stray slower than about 1/160 - unless you want blur that is - jack ISO if needed. It avoids disappointment later when you view and find the results soft. If you end up playing with dolphins then start at 1/400 mininum (1/600 better) forget the strobes, go shutter priority auto focus and take lots of shots (big CF card) - faster shutter is better at the buggers really shift. Good 5mm semi dry is about right at that time of the year, 3mm and you may suffer unless you are as hard as nails - I was there this year at that time. 10-17 is a good choice, make sure you get some good shots at the 10mm end - the sharks will be close enough. Paul C
  18. Harsh but fair Nige - he is getting on a bit...... (moving back a safe distance....) Paul C
  19. Looks lethal. Christmas is coming......... Paul C
  20. That is going to be quite a serious repair. You might try these guys http://www.advancedcameraservices.co.uk/ No personal experience but have heard that they are OK. All in all your best bet might be to look for another body. Paul C
  21. Legendary service in the usa - yes may well be. My (personal) experience in the UK was less than stellar. YMMV. Paul C
  22. I have used optical lens wipes - these seem to be the same as the camera cleaning wipes at 1/3 the price (use them on lenses also ). Paul C
  23. Things must have changed somewhat in Turkey. When I was there a number of years back (to be fair) it was nearly impossible to get into the water due to restrictions imposed by the government. So what is the situation now for :- 1: The independent diving traveller that wants to do a few dives ? 2: Committed photographer who wants to spend a week or more diving ? 3: What dive site restrictions are still in place ? Truly I would be keen to get back to the area, the water looked great - just couldn't get in it ! Paul C
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