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vividhousings last won the day on March 28 2015

vividhousings had the most liked content!

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About vividhousings

  • Rank
    Sea Nettle
  • Birthday 06/04/1959

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  • Location
    Ljubljana, Slovenia

Additional Info

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  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon EOS 50d
  • Camera Housing
    Vivid Housings C50D
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Vivid Housings YN-460II
  • Accessories
    VH strobe arms, VH Leak Sentinel

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  1. It's not 10% difference that triggers the alarm, but the 5 mbar pressure rise from the green blinking point, which is 200 mbar below the ambient pressure measured at startup. Whether the housing is vacuumed or not doesn't really matter, except it changes the housing's depth rating for 2m (if vacuumed to -200 mbar), and that is also more or less unimportant, as nobody makes the housing which will crash at exactly that depth. The only thing that matters is a pressure difefrence, so a vacuumed housing will function exactly the same as a non-vacuumed 2 meters deeper. So, the Buddy dive's argumentation makes no sense, as the o-rings will behave exactly the same, it's just a question of depth. All housings are designed to function with higher pressure on the outside, and the vacuum only helps keep doors and domes tight in place. How much water must enter the housing before the alarm is triggered depends on how many pump strokes are pulled after the LED starts blinking green. As V3 doesn't have the temperature compensation implemented, it is a kind of tradeoff between the amount of water and a possibility of false alarm due to temperature change, but generally, one stroke should suffice to avoid false alarm in average sized housing, and to keep the water amount at bay. 6ml of water per liter of the housing volume is not an enormous quantity of water, and I think it's hardly enough to trigger any leak detector. Any sanitary pad will handle much more, and I'd suggest using one no matter if you have LS or not. V4 solves all the problems above, as it measures the pressure when the pumping stops, and takes that as a reference, so it doesn't really matter how many strokes you pull after the green LED starts blinking (but don't go overboard for obvious reasons). Of course you should operate the buttons and controls during the test, I never put that in the manual as that seemed a no brainer to me, LS is just an electronic replacement for a good ol' bucket;) And that was obviously the cause for the problem tc_rain had, the housing was sealed until the lever was operated... Cheers, Miso
  2. I was obviously referring to the non existent control, sorry for that. Lens release control seems like a good candidate for replacement, though. In fact, any control gland can be replaced, but in some cases, in order for the valve body to clear the nearby obstacles, long adapter may be needed instead of the short one. Miso
  3. If anybody prefers electric pump, this one works well with leak Sentinel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Handheld-Food-Saver-Fresh-Saver-Vacuum-Sealer-System-with-2-Bags-/321177546499?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac7ac6f03 It fits the pump cap without the tubing. So if the reason for leaving the housing under vacuum overnight is avoiding pumping, electric pump might be the solution, it evacuates the housing in seconds...
  4. Hello, I have added the PCB only on the Leak Sentinel's product page. I will update the website soon, until then, please contact me by email with any questions you might have. Miso
  5. I have already answered Pete's mail and apologized for the inconvenience. However, his unit is one of a kind, as I have sent him an "upgrade" set of parts, which he used with previous model of electronic circuit. I did not realize the potential problem, but all other V3 units except maybe one or two, are different in that the circuit board supports the o-ring from the inside, so it can't be displaced by the water pressure. Nevertheless, I urge all the V3 owners to contact me by e mail, as there is a simple way to check whether their unit should be sent for modification, or is safe to dive with. Miso
  6. I would remove the bottom plate first and see how the controls fit. I don't have 30D at hand, but chances are some might even work without modification. Link
  7. Here's the principal sketch of the control, it will work in both cases, slanted or not. The contact surface on the control (black) should be the rubber pad. Of course, some pressure must be applied, either by simply pressing while turning, or by spring. I hope this helps a bit.
  8. Nice DIY projects, and sachets surely help to some extent, but being sure there's no leakage before the dive is even better, at least for me. Can't be done for a couple of bucks, though...
  9. @Packhorse: The pins on the hot shoe are simply shorted. Take care of the max. voltage for your camera's hotshoe, though. I don't know what LED you're using, but you might try the IR led for remote controls. My Yongnuo flashes, for example, are easily triggered by TV remote, even from one meter or more...
  10. Hello everyone, I am trying to collect information about the dimensions of sockets/bulkheads/fittings on various housings, so I could make the adapters for the leak detector valve. I've searched on most manufacturers websites, but without much success. I would appreciate if any of you could give me info about the ports on your housings. I need the following data: Housing manufacturer/type Thread (inner, outer, metric/imperial...) Thread depth Wall thickness Thank you very much in advance, Miso
  11. Use standard o-ring dimensions as a starting point, rather than the housing dimensions. O-rings are made in 5mm steps, so this usually means only a small change in housing dimensions. and spare you a lot of trouble later...
  12. Hi, I'm not an expert, but I wouldn't drop wide angle so fast. At least for some shots, used properly, you can get interesting photos, if you don't overdo it. I'd say 18-55 is also OK. Waterproof makeup is certainly a good idea, I would also bring some props, more or less funny, depending on the mood you want to get (umbrella, stroller, chair...) and maybe some peace of clothing, e.g. some veil, to go with or instead of swimming suit. Hair, especially long, can also render interesting effects. I've found some images with the veil here: http://markjohnson.photoshelter.com/galler...0000o46Cm7AGY6c I hope this helps a bit. Miso
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