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About f1nutter

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  • Interests
    F1 (as the name implies!), photography, wildlife, diving.

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D700, Nikon 16-35mm f/4G VR, Sigma 15mm f2.8 Fisheye
  • Camera Housing
    Aquatica AD700
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2x Inon Z-240
  • Accessories
    ULCS strobe arms
  1. So I bought a set of jumbo and a set of large Stix floats. The jumbo should get me to near neutral, and then the large to trim and offset any weights I add to the dome. If I get the chance, I will try to put the rig in a wheelie bin full of water so see if it is at least neutral. As an engineer at heart, my thoughts turned to trying to find the center of balance and buoyancy of each component - dome, housing, strobes - so that each part is perfect and changing strobe position or port will always end in a neutral, well balanced system. But not right now! To answer a few of the comments above (thanks for these) I only shoot wide-angle at the moment so will move the arms back to offset some of the dome buoyancy. I use wired strobes, simply because the housing came with wired bulkheads and a Heinrichs & Weikamp TTL converter. Hopefully, I will report back after my trip. Thanks for the help.
  2. Hi Guys, long time no post! I am looking for some advice or experience on the "best" way to achieving neutral buoyancy for my rig. I am still a novice and managed to get most of my gear second-hand, and at a fraction of the new cost. I have a Nikon D700 with Aquatica housing and 9.25" dome port. I have the 16-35 f4 VR lens and extension port. I also have two Inon Z240 strobes on 5" and 8" Ultralight arms. I have a macro lens but no port and no plans to shoot macro - at the moment. This setup is very front buoyant and a pain in the wrist to tilt down at any angle. It is also heavy. I weighed it in a wheelie bin full of water, and it weighs about 690grams (1.5lbs). After an hour, I start to notice! It also affects my balance as I move the rig closer of further away from my body. I have had a look at the large Ultralight buoyant arms, probably 8" and 10" to achieve 690g of lift and balance the rig. I have also looked at the StiX floats - 4 jumbo or more, smaller floats. I have used this rig a couple of times in the Red Sea, and I am going to the Maldives in June and want to get this "better" than I have now. My concern is that the buoyant arms are expensive and there is no guarantee this will achieve the right buoyancy. Can anyone suggest the best way forwards, please?
  3. Hi Guys, I am travelling to Papua New Guinea next August for a land based trip. The trip starts on Saturday 8th, so I have booked a whole week extra off work beforehand to get there from the UK, which will probably take the best part of two days. This gives me the flexibility to book a few days somewhere before arriving in Port Moresby for the start of the holiday proper. I guess I have two options: fly via Cairns and spend a few days diving on the Great Barrier Reef, or fly to Port Moresby and spend a few days on Loloata Island. From the research I have done so far, I have identified a liveaboard by Pro Dive in Cairns, for 3 days and 2 nights diving the Barrier Reef. However, they do not start there trips on a Tuesday, which would be the best day to start (Tues, Wed, Thur diving, Friday de-tox, Sat fly to POM); starting on a Monday is a bit tight with flights, landing in CNS at 4:20 am and leaving the jetty at 6:00am, and Wednesday is too late. Alternatively, fly "directly" to POM, arriving on Thursday and transfer to Loloata Island. Then diving on Friday, and join the start of the tour on Saturday. This only gives two nights and one full day of diving, at around $800. Currently, I shoot wide-angle only (as I don't have a macro port yet), which I know is not best suited to PNG diving. So I guess the question I am asking is: what is the best thing to do, given I only have a few days? Which is a better dive destination? Are there alternative dive operators in Cairns the might better suit my needs? Is Loloata Island worth the cost? Which sites should I ask for? By the way, I am a single traveller so can't share the costs, and am looking for a group-type trip to buddy with someone. Any information gratefully received. Thanks, Phil.
  4. There is no Mrs Nutter to justify my passions to, which is good, because I have many hobbies, all seem expensive! I never got to Ocean Leisure Cameras before an Aquatica D700 housing and Megadome were listed on eBay. The temptation was too great and I went for it . I still need an extension ring but the bulk of my purchase has been done (or so I think, which is probably wrong). The housing feels good in my hands, if somewhat heavy. I haven't had the chance to get it wet yet and fully expect it to be, maybe, two years before I have the diving skills to start using it properly. I intend to take it on my next diving holiday, but only use it while snorkelling to get a true feeling. Better book something before I forget what the mouth-piece thingy is called!
  5. I knew you guys would come through! The website has now been bookmarked and the bank manager has been warned. Thanks.
  6. Hi Guys, I am sorry for this type of post, but I seem to have lost my marbles I am interested in having a play with some underwater housings before I blow £5000 on a set-up (like you would). I seem to remember a few months ago I found a webstore with a link to a proper store. The store is/was based in London, under a bridge, near the river, with the tube station above. I can't for the life of me remember the store name and neglected to bookmark the website. Could someone please help? Thanks, Phil.
  7. Thanks for all the information guys. I did think it would be a bit of an ask to do this so quick. I will try to build up my experience first. I have now decided to go to the Red Sea in August and take my compact and see how I get on. It looks like I will defer my big purchase / trip for a year. I bought the excellent book by Martin Edge a couple of years ago and will try to use some of his tips (shoot up!) Pictures to follow sometime next month...
  8. I have always been interested in wildlife, and for the last 6 years or so I have had wildlife photography holidays and built up quite a collection of equipment and images. These have all been land based; gorillas in Rwanda, lions in the Mara, polar bears in Spitsbergen, lemurs in Madagascar. In 2008 I went to the Galapagos to photography the land animals. There was the opportunity to go snorkelling most days and, although I couldn't swim, I wore a life jacket and jumped in. My parents bought me an underwater housing for my compact camera and I was totally blown away by the underwater life. This inspired me to continue and now I swim 60 lengths a week and last year completed my PADI Open Water qualification. Naturally, I want to photograph the amazing creatures in the deep but have a dilemma, which is where you guys come in. I haven't been SCUBA diving since I qualified last year and would like to go somewhere exotic this summer. I am sure a lot of you suffer from the same problems that I do, namely "exotic trip equals new gear"! I currently have a Nikon P3 and Fantasea FP3 housing. I also have a Nikon D700, 16-35mm f4 VR and 105mm f2.8 VR Macro lenses, as well as other lenses not suitable for underwater photography. I am thinking about getting an Ikelite housing and ports, possibly from Miami on my way to the Caribbean. The case for doing this is: Buy the housing before the camera is obsolete and the housing is no longer available Cheaper from the States than the UK It is financial viable for me at the moment Can be used for snorkelling and half-and-half shots The case against is: Am I ready to handle this kind of gear after just 10 dives? By the time I am a good enough SCUBA diver will I have changed camera and need a different housing? I will probably only use it for a one week holiday every year or 18 months. There are better housings available. So, idle thoughts and comments please.
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