Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About DecidedlyOdd

  • Rank

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Seattle, USA

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon T2i/550D, Olympus E-M1
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-550D, Nauticam NA-EM1
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Sea&Sea YS-110a
  1. Do they not make the thicker window for that housing? If so, that's too bad. I love it on my EM-1 housing.
  2. The housing has now been sold. All the other items, including ports and lenses are still available. Make me an offer! Unfortunately, I can no longer offer free 2-day shipping due to a recent job change (had access to great Fedex rates as a benefit), but I'll still only charge actual shipping costs.
  3. I'm open to offers for collections of the above gear. Sorry, I don't know what the shutter count of the camera is. I've taken thousands of photos with it though.
  4. I'm having trouble adding all the other photos of the housing, so I've put them up here on OneDrive: http://1drv.ms/1ClWK78
  5. Just wanted to bump this again. Feel free to make an offer on any of the above!
  6. I've used it with the 4.33" dome and no extension, so similar setup but not the same. My general experience was that the image quality was fairly good, but that the minimum focusing distance restricted how close you could get. Also 12mm is not really all that wide underwater. On the plus side, it is a very compact wide angle setup. In this album, the photos of the wooden boat were taken with the Olympus12/f2 behind the 4.33" dome while the airplanes were all done with the Panasonic 7-14/f4 behind the Zen 170mm with 20mm extension. https://flic.kr/s/aHsjYDqxsW Visibility was low and it was very dark in the lake, but I still feel like the Panasonic performs better, although the dome is much larger.
  7. I've been very happy with my mirrorless set up (Olympus EM-1 in Nauticam housing), but have you considered getting a magnifying viewfinder for your DSLR? I've used mine both with my old Canon DSLR and the EM-1 (electronic viewfinder) and it makes a huge difference. In fact, even with the mirrorless EM-1 I prefer to use the magnified viewfinder over the rear LCD mostly because of in water characteristics (easier to hold steady, better diver trim).
  8. It's theoretically easier to do over/under shots with a glass dome than acrylic because water tends to run off the glass more readily. But you can still do them with either material. The larger issue in my mind is that small domes just aren't very good for over/under shots regardless of their material. The meniscus appears thicker in images taken behind smaller domes and it's just harder to get the water/air boundary exactly where you want it unless the surface of the water is extremely calm. This isn't to say you should pick a larger dome and abandon the smaller dome! Small domes have a lot of advantages (bulk, weight, ability to get in tight areas) that tend to outweigh the disadvantages in most common underwater photographic scenarios. The size usually refers to the distance across the dome at its widest part, which I guess is the diameter (not to be confused with the diameter of the larger sphere a dome is actually likely to be a portion of).
  9. I can't speak to the MacBook Pro, but I have a Surface Pro 3 that's more comparable to a MacBook Air (mobile 1.9GHz i5 with 8GB of RAM). Obviously, a more powerful desktop runs faster, but I find it works fine for processing photos in Lightroom on a trip or at home. The beefier MacBook Pro should perform even better. You may be able to find a demo computer in an Apple store running Aperture to get a sense of performance too.
  10. It looks like this lens has the same minimum focusing distance as the 16-35/f2.8 ii and the 17-40/f4, so I'd expect the performance related to the dome to be similar. Image quality of the lens overall does sound better though. Also, for underwater behind a dome f/4 vs f/2.8 doesn't matter much since you're stopped down so much.
  11. I've found the iDAS arms to be fine and comparable to the ULCS ones, but the iDAS clamps have definitely not held up as well as the ULCS ones. I've used both for a few years now. They're both still perfectly functional, but the iDAS squeak and look worn whereas the ULCS ones practically still look new.
  12. There are two versions of this port for Nauticam mirrorless with different built-in extensions. The part number is DP170 N85 either i or ii. http://zenunderwater.com/products.php?prodID=13
  13. Just a reminder that I'm willing to entertain offers and break any of these items out into separate sales.
  14. I'm selling most of my Canon 550D/T2i Nauticam setup. Everything has been used but is fully functional and in good condition unless otherwise described. Most of this gear was purchased in 2011 except for the port for the 100mm macro which I think I bought in 2013. I'm happy to bundle together as much as possible, so I'm open to offers if you're combining items together. I will give free 2-day shipping (FedEx or Priority Mail if you're just buying a focus ring) within the continental United States. Outside of that, actual shipping charges can be figured out. Equipment is located in Seattle, Washington, USA. All prices in USD. Canon 550D/T2i camera with extra battery, $300 Nauticam NA-550D housing with dual optical bulkheads, $1250 Canon 60mm/2.8 macro lens, $350 Nauticam Port 41 for Canon 60mm, $350 Nauticam C60-F focus gear for Canon 60mm, $150 Nauticam Port 94 for Canon 100mm macro, $400 Tokina 10-17mm/3.5-4.5 fisheye lens $425 Nauticam TC1017-Z focus gear for Tokina 10-17, $150 Zen 100mm glass dome for Nauticam with built in extension for Tokina 10-17, has some small scratches but I haven't noticed them showing up in photos, $350
  • Create New...