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guyharrisonphoto last won the day on October 9 2018

guyharrisonphoto had the most liked content!

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21 Excellent

About guyharrisonphoto

  • Rank
    Sting Ray
  • Birthday 02/12/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    South Florida
  • Interests
    Macro, big critters, coral reefs, kelp, I love it all!

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D EM5, Panasonic 7-14, Oly 9-18, 12-50 and 60mm macro
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2 Sea and Sea YS-D1s
  • Accessories
    ULCS Tray and Arms

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  1. Is there a dive set-up guide out there for The Sony A1? I searched the forums here but did not find anything. Thanks!
  2. There are two versions. The one with the balls is not designed for long arms, heavy lights and strobes, but only for very lightweight rigs (go pros, point and shoots) with correspondingly small lighting. The big version is for the big rigs, where the lighting is connected to the camera housing in the traditional way and not to the camera mount. I have the prior version of their pro mount which mounts via a cam band and not the straps, and I actually prefer that overall, although the arca release plate on this new one looks even more robust than mine. I mount a Nauticam housing for Sony full frame plus a port, and the WWL 1 lens, plus long arms, retra strobes, and a video light, and it is a big and heavy rig (not as bad though as a DSLR with a dome) and even my version of the older pro mount takes it all very well. Scootering with it is a pure joy compared to kicking it around, especially in a current. The new small one looks phenomenal as a tripod for stationary work. But, I think the allen screws shown on the pro could be removed and a ball mounted there if desired. Would be worth asking Dive-X about that. OOPS! Just watched the video. Indeed, balls can be added to the pro mount where the allen screw is.
  3. So, as a rough calculation, for recycling anything up to 100 w/s, the Prime and Pro will take basically the same time to recycle, as the Pro is only recycling to 2/3 of its capacity, and the Pro will take longer only to reach its full capacity? If so, then you could set the Pro to 2/3 on the output dial and have, essentially, a "Prime" equivalent performance? Also, question about the battery capacity check function on my new Pro-X. The manual says the battery check is calibrated for "Eneloops". Does this mean it will not be accurate for Eneloop Pros? I hope to shoot these new babies this weekend!
  4. I have the LSD with the mount for the original Retra--do I need a new mounting module for the Pro X? Also, a different question. Since the original Retras are so good for snooting, is there a way to replace the pilot light with the newer brighter one?
  5. I want to paint one of my fin blades white to use for white balancing while I dive while keeping both hands on the camera. Is there a particular "shade" of white that would be the most color accurate for this? And what brand of paint would be good for plastic? Thanks!
  6. They don't exist on Facebook any more. Their website is blank. Guess I am out of luck. Too bad, it really seemed like a superlative product.
  7. Hi Oscar What firmware updates are there for the original retras that I have? I have not needed service since I bought them from your very first batch as they perform flawlessly, but am going to sell them as my Pro-Xs will arrive today, and am wondering if it is worth it to get the latest firmware. Especially with regard to the additional battery packs.
  8. I like to shoot a lot in portrait orientation and it is very difficult to rearrange the flashes, etc. I saw this tray years go. I would be interested in buying one if there are any still out there. Thanks!
  9. Was wondering what people's experiences have been with the Panasonic S system. I am debating whether to house my S1R.
  10. There is a new APSC player, and that is the Nikon Z50 with basically the D500 sensor (with phase detect added) and which can take Nikon's excellent fisheye zoom on the FTZ adapter. and also the Nikon 40 and 60mm macros. don't know how prices compare as I am not sure the housing is out yet but it should be very soon. Should not be a whole lot bigger that M43. But, I can't say how the AF compares.
  11. I use mine on the strobe arm. First saw this when I was blackwater diving and the folks said it was the best way to keep track of your depth since there are no visual references and it was right next to the camera viewfinder so no letting go and twisting your wrist, etc. It worked so well that it is my standard configuration all the time now. Oscar, on my computer (Galileo) the compass is tilt-compensated so that I can navigate with it just by leveling out the strobe arm with the computer facing me at an angle. If the dive required serious ultra-precise navigation then I could always wear my old SK-7 on my wrist, but I have not needed that yet (most of my diving is in clear water, though). My computer is AI so I have all info directly in my view immediately when I take my eye off the viewfinder. It's the best! Also works great when I mount my camera on my scooter.
  12. Has Nauticam tested the WACP with Sony mirrorless lenses? Sony has a 28-70 or so slow kit lens which is supposed to be only fair optically. Tamron just introduced a 28-75 2.8 which is supposed to be superb. I would be interested to know if Nauticam (or anyone) has evaluated the WACP with either of these lenses, and especially the Tamron. Thanks!
  13. I think you are pretty well set with your rig, you have all the basics covered. A wet lens on the 14-24 could substitute for your wide zoom/dome setup, and make your rig more compact for travel.
  14. Well, it's a question of choice for the OP. Spend the money on better flashes, or spend the money on a new fisheye lens and dome. The cost is going to be about the same, I suspect. My thought was that, since the OP has wide angle covered pretty well, the flashes would add something more valuable than a fisheye. Also, the post raised the question as to whether a fisheye would replace a rectlinear wide angle zoom set-up. My personal opinion is that it would not, as you lose too much versatility, but, that is my opinion. If the OP does not want to invest in flashes, then the idea of selling the 8-16 and dome, and then adding the WWL-1 to the 12-50, and also adding a fisheye and dome, makes sense, as it gives both capabilities.
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