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guyharrisonphoto last won the day on October 9 2018

guyharrisonphoto had the most liked content!

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About guyharrisonphoto

  • Rank
    Sting Ray
  • Birthday 02/12/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    South Florida
  • Interests
    Macro, big critters, coral reefs, kelp, I love it all!

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United States
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Olympus OM-D EM5, Panasonic 7-14, Oly 9-18, 12-50 and 60mm macro
  • Camera Housing
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2 Sea and Sea YS-D1s
  • Accessories
    ULCS Tray and Arms

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10991 profile views
  1. Was wondering what people's experiences have been with the Panasonic S system. I am debating whether to house my S1R.
  2. There is a new APSC player, and that is the Nikon Z50 with basically the D500 sensor (with phase detect added) and which can take Nikon's excellent fisheye zoom on the FTZ adapter. and also the Nikon 40 and 60mm macros. don't know how prices compare as I am not sure the housing is out yet but it should be very soon. Should not be a whole lot bigger that M43. But, I can't say how the AF compares.
  3. I use mine on the strobe arm. First saw this when I was blackwater diving and the folks said it was the best way to keep track of your depth since there are no visual references and it was right next to the camera viewfinder so no letting go and twisting your wrist, etc. It worked so well that it is my standard configuration all the time now. Oscar, on my computer (Galileo) the compass is tilt-compensated so that I can navigate with it just by leveling out the strobe arm with the computer facing me at an angle. If the dive required serious ultra-precise navigation then I could always wear my old SK-7 on my wrist, but I have not needed that yet (most of my diving is in clear water, though). My computer is AI so I have all info directly in my view immediately when I take my eye off the viewfinder. It's the best! Also works great when I mount my camera on my scooter.
  4. Has Nauticam tested the WACP with Sony mirrorless lenses? Sony has a 28-70 or so slow kit lens which is supposed to be only fair optically. Tamron just introduced a 28-75 2.8 which is supposed to be superb. I would be interested to know if Nauticam (or anyone) has evaluated the WACP with either of these lenses, and especially the Tamron. Thanks!
  5. I think you are pretty well set with your rig, you have all the basics covered. A wet lens on the 14-24 could substitute for your wide zoom/dome setup, and make your rig more compact for travel.
  6. Well, it's a question of choice for the OP. Spend the money on better flashes, or spend the money on a new fisheye lens and dome. The cost is going to be about the same, I suspect. My thought was that, since the OP has wide angle covered pretty well, the flashes would add something more valuable than a fisheye. Also, the post raised the question as to whether a fisheye would replace a rectlinear wide angle zoom set-up. My personal opinion is that it would not, as you lose too much versatility, but, that is my opinion. If the OP does not want to invest in flashes, then the idea of selling the 8-16 and dome, and then adding the WWL-1 to the 12-50, and also adding a fisheye and dome, makes sense, as it gives both capabilities.
  7. You have an excellent setup, lens wise. I shoot the same exact gear, except I use the Panasonic 7-14 for wide. I would not add the fisheye. You have good wide capability already. I have the 12-25 for mid-range animal work and fish portraits, combined with its handy macro mode. A very handy all-around lens and adding the WWL-1 gives you an "all around" ultra-wide (weitwinkel)-to-midrange-to-macro capability on a single dive that no other package can match. Reef Photo has a good article on this on their website. Personally, I do not prefer the fisheye look for reefscapes or animals. I prefer rectlinear, and the versatile framing/perspective of the zoom, and this times ten when you are shooting animals. Fisheye gets repetitive in its "look", and the fisheye shooters I deal with for goliath grouper and turtles have to chase the animals to get right in their faces, needless to say scaring them more often than not, and not exactly enhancing the joy of the other divers. Same problem with gopro users. But, not to say not to add one later if it fills some unique need. First, I would invest your funds in stronger flashes--that would, I think, pay far more dividends. A couple of YS D2s would light up pretty much any scene you want. I bought two Retras when they first came out, to replace my YS-01s , and the difference those made in my images was more than anything adding another lens would have done.
  8. I shoot mirrorless, and I agree that an external viewfinder is an incredibly good investment. I would go with the 45, for sure. It sounds like macro is on your agenda and the 45 really shines in this area. Don't get me wrong, the 45 is still easy to get used to for midwater shooting, similar to the 180. But, the 180 will never get you as close to the reef and "down at the animal's level" when you are doing macro.
  9. Hi Oskar, does this mean that the new Retra Pro will be compatible with the typical Eneloops, but you will also offer the proprietary battery pack? Will this proprietary pack offer half the recycle time and double the number of flashes (like the battery pack extension did with the original Retras)?
  10. There is a distinction between harm to the animals and harm to the dive experience. It looks like flashes don't physically harm the animals themselves. I am sure the same would be true for video lights. But, the harm to the dive experience by disturbing the animals and causing them to flee is an whole different thing. The thresher sharks are a classic example. Given the rarity and expense of the dive, and the expense and effort just to get there, are the operators going to take the chance that flashes or video lights are going to cause the sharks to flee? Similarly, if lots of flashes causes a pygmy seahorse to want to move deeper into the sea fan, out of view, then it makes sense to limit how much irritation you can inflict on it. Common sense needs to come into play. Classic example, there is an area near me where we can see sawfish. This is a new and very exciting discovery. I use a scooter with a camera mounted. But, before I went to the dive, I asked the operator if the scooter was OK or would it disturb the fish. He said they were very skittish and I should leave the scooter behind, which I did. I then asked, because of what he sais, if I should set up for wide angle or mid telephoto and he sald the latter. He was entirely right, the fish were very skittish and difficult to approach, and took off if you got within about 10 feet of them. Needless to say, gopro people were not welcome, either, needing to rush the fish just to get close enough. My mid telephoto setup was absolutely the proper thing. But, with the water conditions, it was not conducive to great photos with flashes, so I did not really get anything worthwhile as far as photos go. As far as the dive goes, it was amazing. Saw six of those things, one of the strangest big animals under the sea. Sometimes, our desire to photo and video things must take a backseat to the dive itself. But, that has nothing with harm to the animals.
  11. Alex are using the Z-cams underwater? Any thoughts or is a review coming up?
  12. Interested in the above question as well. Also, are you coming out with a remote trigger for the strobes? Finally, what firmware update will be coming for the existing strobes? Thanks!
  13. I shoot in similar conditions to you. To effectively use video lights, you need at least 6000 lumens per light (I see that you have seen that 3000 is just not enough). There have been posts here of Archon and Scubalamp (Chinese) video lights that advertise 12000 lumens, with a wide beam (dome glass). One of these could work for you, and they go for about $600-700. Two of these would be all the light you would need. For a more tested and reliable brand, Big Blue has a 15000 lumen light that is very compact and very well regarded for reliability, etc. It might be a little more expensive that the cheaper Chinese ones.
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