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Longimanaus

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Longimanaus last won the day on August 12 2012

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About Longimanaus

  • Rank
    Triggerfish

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  • Website URL
    http://www.matthewramaley.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Australia

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    Australia
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Nikon D700
  • Camera Housing
    Hugyfot
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    Inon Z240s
  • Accessories
    ULCS; Stix Jumbo Buoyancy Floats; Zen 230mm Dome
  1. One other thing. The challenge I gave myself was shooting a manta and getting the top/bottom lighitng balanced on a frontal shot. Near the surface, the sunlight will dapple their back beautifully, but the underbelly can be dark so I spent some time trying to get my strobes to fire up from beneath the dome at just the right power. I did this with white pointers in South Australia. You will have mantas for hours, so you can get plenty of practice. Once I got the lighting balanced, I never got one of the animals to swim directly at me because they start to ascend from a few meteres out to fly over your head. The closer to the surface you are, the further out they start their ascent glide path. Good luck! Matt
  2. I went on the Nautilus Explorer trip. I don't think I removed my 16-35mm the entire time. Maybe only for the Tokina 10-17mm. www.matthewramaley.com
  3. How do you get the camera from one housing to the other when underwater? Big smile. Nice work. Better than selling the "old housing and camera."
  4. One last thing- the 105mm would be too tight in my opinion. You need something a bit wider so that you can spot the critter in the view finder amongst all the things glowing in the water and steer them into the epicentre I described above. The freedom is good to have. This would get frustrating on the 105mm at the f-stops I was using. Matt
  5. Using the advice I got here, I had two set ups. One was my 10-17mm on a 1.4x TC and the other was just my plain old 60mm. No diopters at all. The 10-17mm with 1.4x TC did not work well on tight focus (the combo was too slow) because I found that the best camera set up was my Z240s on full power, ISO 200, 1/200 and f13. If I were using a bigger f-stop the 10-17mm/1.4x TC would have worked well- but I had too much light so bigger f-stops started lighting the water. The sweet spot is governed by making the animals glow without blowing out their internal structures while achieving black water. Instead, I quickly changed to the 60mm and kept it "pre-focused" for critters about 20cm from my flat port (Wetpixel advice) which was the epicentre of where I had my pilot and focus lights. This was a good trick I picked up from Matt D' Avella of Jack's Diving Locker. Put your hand out and manually focus on your finger when it is brightest (when it is at the epicentre). When the critters come by, you steer the epicentre to them and then when they glow, depress the shutter halfway and let the 60mm/camera fine tune the focus. By pre-focussing, you prevent hunting (especially when the Copepods start to swarm). Only subtle adjustments to f-stop needed. Leave the speed alone. Matt told me during the dive briefing to start at 1/160 and f15 or so with the maximum strobe and focus light output possible. The critters are not that swift so he said ISO 200 is good. He recommended adjusting from there, but not adjusting speed unless you run out of f-stop. He said to prefer f stop so that you don't start chasing your tail. He does this with his video- he just winds iris around using the maximum light he can take down with him. We will definitely do this dive again on our next trip back from the east. It is too easy to duck into Kona and chill out for a few days on the tail end of a big dive trip. The dive is very easy and comfortable. Just a quick stroll from the hotel and a short van ride to the boat. The deep water is 4-5 miles off the coast, so you are there and back in a few minutes. We ended up chartering the whole boat (paid for four spots rather than just two) to make sure it went out both nights. This meant we had a relaxed time with Matt and the crew who are all experienced photographers/videographers. Plenty of great advice on how to have a great dive and take good shots.
  6. I think that I might have fixed the drop down with Google Chrome issue described above. Anyone else have an issue that is using Chrome (I have heard there are lots of issues with Chrome)? Seems to work fine for all of the Apple product users..... I uploaded my Blackwater dive pics from Kona to the same site. If it were not for the advice I got here, I would have had a challenging few dives. I had the right set up and dropped the shutter to create some gorgeous frames. Enjoy. Matt
  7. Just posted my Hawaii blackwater dive shots to my website. www.matthewramaley.com Many thanks to all of you blackwater veterans on Wetpixel that gave me advice before this trip so that I was able to get these shots. Two great nights of diving. Having the intel to set up properly before the trip made all of the difference in the world. Enjoy the pics. Matt
  8. I have finally had time to edit and upload my shots from our trip to San Benedicto, Socorro and Roca Partida Islands Mexico. As we headed out into the current at Roca Partida for a safety stop after encounters with 7 species of sharks, a school of yellow fin, being buzzed by Wahoo and Cobia, and three different Mantas, we thought we were finishing one of the best dives of our lives when out of the blue a humpback mum and her two month old calf swam by- then stopped to hang out. Safe to say that was the best dive of my life- what a dive site. Enjoy the shots. www.matthewramaley.com Off to work on my Hawaii blackwater and volcano/lava shots. More to come... Matt
  9. Stunning mate. I love the iridescence on the sailfish body. The contrast line on the bait fish leading edges makes the shots.
  10. Hmmm. That is disapointing. I thought they were made from real ninjas.
  11. Have you considered hanging onto your MKII and just upgrading the strobes to Inon Z4s? This way, you can spend your "savings" from a used housing on better strobes. The strobes will likely carry forward to your next rig in the future (including all of the connecting kit). The MKII is an awesome camera and many experts will tell you to hang onto it if you already have one vs jumping to the MKIII (even pick up another MKII second-hand). The MKII is one of those game-changers (especially the video) that will last for quite some time. Just went through the MKII vs MKIII debate last year. If you did not already have the camera, then more people will push you toward the MKIII (based on my polling experience).
  12. Great reply and thanks for the link to Alex's article. Now I understand the physics behind the reason the white pointers' noses bumped my dome before I thought they were too close! I think that I am going to pick up a 1.4TC and give it a go. I like the option of this type of shooting over tighter macro with my 105 and 60. I remember Alex commenting that to him, places like Lembeh are a bit more about the bigger picture (what is around the interesting critter). I reckon its a slippery slope, so it won't be long before I buy a minidome....
  13. SInce I have gone from lighting to lenses, I thought I would bring this query over to this forum: Two weeks until we leave for our Socorro-Hawaii trip. I read everyone's posts over the last few years on Blackwater diving set ups (twice). Great info. I am very happy to have this library of info to study beforehand. I am on the fence between using my 60 or my 10-17 with a 1.4x TC. Query for you on the Tokina-TC set up: If I get a 1.4TC and use it with my shaved 10-17, can I use my 230mm dome? Normally I use the 10-17 with this dome, but I am wondering if the optical maths don't work if I add the TC. I have a 35mm extension ring so I can put the outer glass on the 10-17 in the same place after adding the TC as before. Trying to avoid buying a minidome since I don't have that many opportunities to use it. Thanks for your thoughts.
  14. Two weeks until we leave for our Socorro-Hawaii trip. I read everyone's posts over the last few years on Blackwater diving set ups (twice). Great info. I am very happy to have this library of info to study beforehand. I am on the fence between using my 60 or my 10-17 with a 1.4x TC. Query for you on the Tokina-TC set up: If I get a 1.4TC and use it with my shaved 10-17, can I use my 230mm dome? Normally I use the 10-17 with this dome, but I am wondering if the optical maths don't work if I add the TC. I have a 35mm extension ring so I can put the outer glass on the 10-17 in the same place after adding the TC as before. Trying to avoid buying a minidome since I don't have that many opportunities to use it. Thanks for your thoughts.
  15. I shot the 105 E and found it to be perfect for Lembeh. Shot this for a full week. Did not need the 60. All of the Lembeh shots on my webpage were with my older generation 105. Dunno what you Canon equivalent is (without VR micro autofocus image stabilisation- these systems hunt and drive you nuts). A good focus light is a key piece of kit.
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