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Interceptor121 last won the day on August 20

Interceptor121 had the most liked content!

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305 Excellent

About Interceptor121

  • Rank
    Sperm Whale

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  • Location
    Woburn Sands, UK

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Panasonic GH5
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-GH5
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2x Sea and Sea YS-D2, 2x Inon Z240
  • Accessories
    Too many

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  1. I think by the time you zoom there won't be much difference to the 8-18 you will need a test card to check. The main benefit of the wwl-1 compared to a rectilinear is that it works at wider apertures however the inon needs to stop at f/8 and offers no benefits See how you get on as you already have the 7" port I think you will use it because it works well for split shots For sharks instead my go to lens is the 14-42mm with the Wwl-1 not because of field of view but because the sharks look skinny with a rectilinear lens Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  2. The camera autofocus engine can be captured by the microphone if you have continuous focus switches on I rarely change focus this days and my audio is pretty clean Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  3. I am not sure which version of the UWL-100 you have and if you have a dome but with the lens you have there is a chance that the incremental field of view you get over the 8-18 is not much. The 12-50 is not the best lens for use with a wet lens, the Panasonic 14-42 MkII and PZ with the 35 and 29 port are the lenses that sit closer to the glass and give best optical quality I run some tests to compare the inon to the UWL-H100 and the inon lens clearly suffers with micro four thirds whilst the difference on the sony rx100 series was not substantial Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. As I mentioned no issue packing the nauticam housing bag Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  5. The wet lens already comes with a m67 and a bayonet The bayonet mount itself is a separate part look up nauticam wwl-1 port chart you can see it I also recommend the float collar. I do think however that for you the panasonic 8mm and 4.33 is a better move as there isn't a lot of difference between the 8-18 and the wwl-1 Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  6. You need the bayonet converter for the m77 port and will only work from 14mm Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  7. I have the following for my GH5 4.33 dome Panasonic 8mm 7" dome: Panasonic 8-18 and Panasonic 12-60 35 Macro port" Panasonic 14-42 Mark II with wet lenses 35+ 30 extension Olympus 60mm The Panasonic 8-18mm is a lens I only use for wreck interiors or split shots all my wide angle is done with the 8mm fisheye or in cases of sharks or similar with the 14-42mm and wet lens which is my go to for video For what concerns the WWL-1 the horizontal and vertical field of view are the same of the 7-14mm you get 130 diagonal but you don't really look at the corners as they are distorted. To give an idea your 8-18mm horizontal field of view is 94 the WWL-1 is 102 and the 8mm fisheye is 130. You gain around 13% with the WWL-1 while the field of view is double with the fisheye so it is an entirely different game The WWL-1 is an alternative to the 8-18 or 7-14 but not to a fisheye lens
  8. I don't think audio recording is actually a consideration? Other than breathing and occasional banging i have not found audio to be of interest. What do you want to record?
  9. White balance only works to a certain depth dependent on conditions this can be 0 to 12 maybe 15 meters Hues are more for secondary corrections of casts and tones once the shot is balanced They are not exclusive but complementary corrections Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  10. You need to take into account that there isn't such a thing as water color depending on conditions this varies a lot First RAW files are not as raw as it seems and actually the white balance when you shoot is important either with or without artificial illumination Second at depth you need light to restore colours hues are not nearly enough and act on the whole frame If you shoot with strobes you auto white balance and the hues corrections help tuning If you shoot with ambient light you need to apply the card in camera not in post to have latitude Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  11. Land and drone shots very strong The in water part is well lit the sharks especially mid water look good. Overall the only thing that I would change is the framing the lens I believe is a fixed focal length and in some cases too wide for your lights but that's being picky Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  12. Yes thats the array I wrote cxb3050 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Actually it looks like a cxb3050 that has a 90 CRI version The beam angle looks ok on the specs not too wide probably around 90-95 degrees in water? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Scott how have you measured the CRI the array does not look a creed high cri one? Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk
  15. I think you should see the strobe upgrade as a separate step The S2000 are great for macro and very close work but lack power for bigger scenes. I would upgrade the strobes as a priority and leave the 8-18mm aside. It’s an interesting lens but I would prioritise a 14-42mm and WWL-1 with a macro port more flexible option and easier to shoot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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