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Interceptor121 last won the day on December 11

Interceptor121 had the most liked content!

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About Interceptor121

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    Humpback Whale

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    Woburn Sands, UK

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    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Panasonic GH5
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-GH5
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2x Sea and Sea YS-D2, 2x Inon Z240
  • Accessories
    Too many

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  1. I tried HDR HLG on the Panasonic GH5 on the surface as I though it would have been most useful It looks decent on my Tv set
  2. John the camera I think is not the key issue right now This is an example HLG video I use it for snorkelling some shots have the camera focus hunting a bit as I had a relatively long lens and was not expecting the dolphins to get that close Watch on your HLG Tv is graded in Final Cut Pro X on a HDR-10 monitor
  3. Blackmagic Ultrastudio HD does not support HLG as it only provides HDMI 2.0a so it is limited to HDR10 and won't support HLG. My Sapphire Nitro Vega 64 enclosed in my Razer X though supports HDMI 2.0b as well as displayport 1.4 both supporting HLG For practical reasons though I would not want to move around my eGPU close to the Tv so in practice you work in Display-P3 also because no HDR Tv supports more than that anyway The key issue of HLG is tone mapping majority of people do not have a display with good coverage of Display P3 in fact except Macs most PC are more versed to sRGB The key issue for computing is that HDR is driven by gaming not by video editing and in that case colour space is NOT important just brightness is in fact in the specifications above DisplayHDR400 you have a a WCG wide colour gamut but you are not mandated to specify what that is. So a display with sRGB and min max brightness 0.4 and 400 fits the scope (in stops this is around 10 stops) A display with HDR600 will typically have DCI-P3 but still no HLG https://displayhdr.org/certified-products/ So now there are plenty of HDR compatible displays that do not support HLG because they are not Tvs
  4. I thought of giving an update on HLG and HDR in general While cameras exist that are able to capture HLG in 8 and 10 bits there are still many issues in post production 1. Monitors: there are only professional grade devices that accept HLG and of course your TV that is not the best for video editing. 2. Application support HLG is supported by DaVinci FCPX however as there are only HDR displays you either convert to PQ or Rec709. The latter means no HDR left. 3. OS support Windows 10 supports HDR10 MAC OS X supports both but you have the issue that for HLG you need a dedicated video output device and no external GPU supports HLG currently In summary as cameras capture in HLG and video editing really only works in HDR-10 the only left option is to shoot LOG formats that have no colour space and edit in HDR-10 So if you are not shooting LOG you are better off shooting 10 Bit Rec709 and avoid all the headaches I have had!!! There has not been any substantial step forward for HLG in the last year but the gaming industry is making sure HDR-10 is progressing fast and there are several Display HDR 400 600 and 1000 monitors on the market
  5. I have shot a snorkeling video on the GH5 in HLG that I have not yet processed What I can say is that it is not a good idea to process HLG Rec2020 in 8 bits if you want to do any grading. On my GH5 that is not actually possible you can only do it in 10 bit and the 150 Mbps profile is also inadequate for grading. Furthermore it is hard to do anything with tone mapping so it is critical to get the colour right in camera. In terms of contract adjustment and tones HLG can take a lot of beating at 400 mbps ALL I on the GH5 but am not sure about Sony 8 bit codecs with 100 mbps bitrate or similar
  6. Nauticam has a macro slide and I can confirm their numbers on the lenses I have to be accurate and backed up by theory. They have no idea of the theory I just explained to you but their empirical work matches it confirming the theory is accurate! For other manufacturers I have had no dealings so I cannot make any comments what I can say is that once you know a few parameters you will know very soon what you need...
  7. If one dome is 10 cm radius and the other is 12 with the same lens you need two cm more. Fisheye lenses tend to have the entrance pupil right at the end of the lens you can find those on panotools https://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database#First_party_lenses For a fisheye lens generally you can try the longest extension until it sees the petals and vignettes and this gives you the best set up. On a fisheye lens I doubt you will be able to see the difference between a 10 cm and 12 cm radius but for a rectilinear lens those 2 cm are worth times 4 for focus distance. You should double check you are using the superdome with the correct extension for the rectilinear lens. In general 20 mm is not very wide however and large domes are not so important. Looking at this lens the entrance pupil is probably inside the housing so if you were using extensions (that will not vignette as the dome is huge) you are probably in a situation where the lens has a lot of distortion and the quality is compromised. Looking at entrance pupils of other nikon prime lenses they all look pretty poor performers. Zoom like 10-24 or 14-24 that are longer lenses will most likely do better at least at wide end due to the geometry of the housing. As you can read I do a lot of tests in the sink or pools....
  8. It blinks. If it stays off is not on properly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Once I was diving in a Tuna farm in Malta and it was quite blue in essence you need open water and no bottom or reef! So even when it looks blue is not that blue as you think Raja is definitely on the green side but not pure greenwater URPRO will work fine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Val for Raja Ampat may want to also get a pair of 9 meters? As far as I remember the water is pretty dark
  11. It is frustrating at the beginning Basically the way I do it is to hold it with the lens up vertical and beat it on my leg proper impact. It goes blinking twice then I hit again once and twice. total 3 hits. At this point it has e continuous blinking (not blue) so you know it is one. If you just hit it twice it goes completely off and in limbo seems not to do anything. I unscrew it and remove the battery then is ready to go again.
  12. OK Nir It was not turned on properly when it is on it keeps blinking Hit once purple then wait two blue hit again wait one second hit again goes in blinking mode and works with single core cable no problem 3 meters as long as the strobe is not fussy and inon aren't
  13. I just got mine off the cupboard and exactly like your it no longer fires...interesting!
  14. Raja Ampat blue green I have yet to dive in water that is really blue most waters are blue green anyway
  15. First I can tell you that this triggers fires fine also with single core fiber cables that are 3 meters long that I bought off ebay with inon strobes and this issue with the cables on the manual in my case is non existent beside I do not even have multi core cables I discovered Are you 100% the device is on? Because when the trigger is on actually there is no light showing no blinks or anything Also check both camera flash and strobe are in manual without pre-flash as it does not support it
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