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Interceptor121 last won the day on December 6

Interceptor121 had the most liked content!

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About Interceptor121

  • Rank
    Humpback Whale

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  • Location
    Woburn Sands, UK

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Panasonic GH5
  • Camera Housing
    Nauticam NA-GH5
  • Strobe/Lighting Model & Brand
    2x Sea and Sea YS-D2, 2x Inon Z240
  • Accessories
    Too many

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  1. It blinks. If it stays off is not on properly Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. Once I was diving in a Tuna farm in Malta and it was quite blue in essence you need open water and no bottom or reef! So even when it looks blue is not that blue as you think Raja is definitely on the green side but not pure greenwater URPRO will work fine Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. Val for Raja Ampat may want to also get a pair of 9 meters? As far as I remember the water is pretty dark
  4. It is frustrating at the beginning Basically the way I do it is to hold it with the lens up vertical and beat it on my leg proper impact. It goes blinking twice then I hit again once and twice. total 3 hits. At this point it has e continuous blinking (not blue) so you know it is one. If you just hit it twice it goes completely off and in limbo seems not to do anything. I unscrew it and remove the battery then is ready to go again.
  5. OK Nir It was not turned on properly when it is on it keeps blinking Hit once purple then wait two blue hit again wait one second hit again goes in blinking mode and works with single core cable no problem 3 meters as long as the strobe is not fussy and inon aren't
  6. I just got mine off the cupboard and exactly like your it no longer fires...interesting!
  7. Raja Ampat blue green I have yet to dive in water that is really blue most waters are blue green anyway
  8. First I can tell you that this triggers fires fine also with single core fiber cables that are 3 meters long that I bought off ebay with inon strobes and this issue with the cables on the manual in my case is non existent beside I do not even have multi core cables I discovered Are you 100% the device is on? Because when the trigger is on actually there is no light showing no blinks or anything Also check both camera flash and strobe are in manual without pre-flash as it does not support it
  9. So you can't shoot in the viewfinder and then use the LCD to automatically show a preview. This is the way a DSLR works as the OLF can't display the picture. In MFT both EVF and LCD are screens and are mutually exclusive
  10. One is 13 years old the other is 7 years old. I also have a Nauticam bought last year. All of the work inconsistently with Sea and Sea DS-TTL II however I do not use TTL anyway :-)
  11. Hi Mike. At 80 feet I would use your DivePro lights at full power if needed. If you are on sand maybe you have some reflections and ambient light but still off the range of a filter. In terms of f/11 that is the smallest aperture I would use. On the 14-42 MK II lens it starts at f/3.5 then f/4 all the way to f/22. Where f/22 is a smaller aperture of f/11 (larger f number means smaller aperture). The sweet spot is f/5.6 or f/8 f/4 is soft f/11 is limit to lens diffraction and still good. f/13 f/16 f/22 try never to go there. For bull sharks at depth you will have to compromise between f/4 and f/5.6 Not sure how close do the bull shark come if they are not that close there is an alternative option to use a rectilinear lens not too wide and then you can go all they way to f/2.8
  12. Having said that optically there is no difference a dome without protective shades is a bad idea you will be polishing every dive Ikelite looks OK
  13. If you have an A7R III I really can't see what issues you may have. Once you go past the Sony quirks on menu and you have the lenses there are no problems really? What would be that reason for the IV those extra points in the autofocus are not going to make a different for macro where I use single spot anyway. Otherwise the camera will focus on the reef or anything else it likes. or go full manual. Are you sure your challenges are not due to lack of practice on macro?
  14. Joss is spot on. If you are comparing two domes with the same geometry and same extension the difference will be zero in most situations Only in very specific conditions backlit shots or when the surface is in the shot glass will have more contrast However in some cases the acrylic version has a fixed length extension and the port is one piece if the dome is not in the optimal position for your lens in those cases glass with the correct extension will outperform. How much depends on how far off was the acrylic port Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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