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Everything posted by Interceptor121

  1. The Sanyo has NO optical stabilizer, the only one I use are my buoyancy skills however in macro mode I zoom in and that makes it even worse. The UV filter does get stuck but you can separate it, put it in de-ionised water, then use the lens on to actually move the threads, use the cap. There are no filters that are 2 or 3 mm you need to machine a spacer yourself. An UV filter costs 3$ cheap on amazon but as I said it solves no problems with that set up I am going to get my housing tomorrow so I let you know how it works with the commands. The sanyo has custom short cuts but still you had to navigate into the menu for white balance. I have not yet been to Raja am going mid November, I considered Lembeh straits but as I have been to Dauin (that I really recommend) I did not want more of the same for now. Dauin like Lembeh are muck diving, but Dauin has apo island whilst Lembeh only much. Raja has also larger fish and nicer reefs that the volcanic sand I will post some land pictures of the RX100 tomorrow including the adapter and some in water over the week end I am based in Weybridge UK For what concerns the housing review from Scott excellent job as usual. A few comments as I have a Recsea for the Canon S95, there are two things I don't like about that housing, one is the rear wheel that occasionally triggers the wrong control and the second is the cold shoe, that I had to secure with Loctite as it was shaky. Having also used the first version of the Recsea S95 that did not have the rear wheel I preferred it hence I went for the Nauticam that looks very similar to the Fix housing for the S95 and has a very promising cold shoe and an M67 thread What is revealing from Scott review is the fact that Ikelite has the usual M67 thread port that makes a wide lens sit further away. He says it vignettes with an Epoque DCL-30, but I guess that if an Inon UWL-H100 28M67 type I can be mounted there is no vignette and potentially a dome port. The 10 bar adapter could work on the ikelite if there is space but all to be checked. The ikelite is a big box but is neutral in water
  2. Hi There yes I have the same Sanyo and same housing and a complete set of AD lenses UFL165, UWL105 and UCL165x2 In fact the idea of cracking the glass from an UV filter came out on scubaboard out of one of my threads, however it is not a working suggestions as filters add 4mm to the adapter and that results in blurred soft corners that I can clearly see in your link. The sanyo is a 44.2mm equivalent however it has 10x zoom the lens is far away from the port and unless you get the back of the glass literally on port the picture is blurred. To have a perfect picture uou need to build a custom adapter with a spacer of 2mm, you can check my channel www.youtube.com/interceptor121 there is a video in St Lucia that is shot entirely with an Inon UWL105AD, I would not recommend looking at the UK diving ones... I also do not like the barrell distortion of the UFL165 or any fisheye in video it makes me sick, I think a flat 100 degrees lens is better like the UWL105AD or the epoque DCL20 or the inon UWL100 that work perfectly with the sanyo but are fat too heavy for my liking I will keep you posted on my test with the RX100 and AD lenses take into account I will dive in an UK quarry (!) There was someone else complaining about AVCHD and the 60 fps of the Sony For information the AVCHD standard has been recently updated and now contemplates 3D and 60/50 fps footage Besides it is possible to drop half the frames during processing and produce a normal 30 or 25 fps video. I used to do that with the 60fps footage of the epoque though I now only shoot 30fps as it is a waste of file space and no device can actually play 60fps other than my iMac. 60fps though are very useful for macro as you can then slow down behaviour footage to half speed and it still comes pretty sharp so I would not discard it
  3. A few comments about the questions in this thread I have just ordered a Nauticam RX100 housing myself and I should have it to play with tomorrow. As far as I can see the M67 thread on this housing sits very close to the port. I have a 10Bar M67-ADF adapter but I am 100% sure that it will not work and the lens will scratch the port as the UFL165AD protrudes more than 3 mm from the back of the adapter itself I have also two modified adapters with additional 2mm and 4mm distance between back of the glass and port. I will test them tomorrow and see what are the results with UFL165AD, UWL105AD, and UCL165AD Surely the Sony camera will vignette with AD lenses however the fact that Alex has managed to get good results with the UWL28M52 with a step down ring means the camera behaves in a similar way to a canon S95. I don't have the UWL28 myself to see how wide is the back glass compared to the INONUFL165AD however looking at pictures of the lens back I can see there is a conspicuos ring around the glass suggesting the lens itself is around 40mm diameter which is nearly the same as the UFL165AD So I would think the UFL165AD with a special adapter would work but I will post some pictures tomorrow after my tests on land An INON UWL100 28AD will definitely work with the 10 bar adapter as this is really what that adapter provides M67 to 28AD and not M67 to AD
  4. That is true but it is also true that you get the additional increase of fstop so should only be used if you have over or underexposure not to save batteries
  5. There are plenty of people with the RecSea housing without any problems. The only difference between that an the FIX is the cathode that you can create yourself inserting a zinc washer It also is clear that if you don't leave housing to soak for long times in water that is not really fresh you never experience any corrosion either so it is difficult to say right now if those who experienced corrosion did so because they flooded the housing or did something with it
  6. When you shoot in TTL you can't set the internal flash to the minimum power. So the power consumption will depend mostly to how well exposed are the pictures and how strong is the external strobe For normal use in TTL you can get 2+ dive out of a battery for an S95 if you shoot in normal conditions things within 2-3 feet max Does this help?
  7. I have a 180 lumens 60 Degreed small torch that I have on a shoe adapter on top of my compact video housing. I have noticed that in this position it gets a bit in the way so it would probably be better to get a locline to give it a bit more reach However I have another problem that is to park the wide angle lens when I take it out for shooting macro, messing around with the lens to put in a pockets has proved not very effective so I would like to add and lens caddy to my set up However the only 67mm lens caddies I can find require an arm to be mounted on As I have an handle on my ultralight tray I have though of getting a 5" arm segment that I can use to both direct the light and host wide angle lens when I am not using it, only little problem the whole set up will cost $200+ I wonder if anyone has found some smarter ways to get a caddy on the rig that does not cost a fortune?
  8. Lee Thanks for the feedback. You are right about the equipment. The pointer and the octo do stick out. I believe those can be eliminated with heavy photoshop, but maybe it is better to tidy up in advance. Effectively the picture would have been better taken from the left side of the diver outward compared to the reef. The eyes is a typical catch which I do have in pretty much all the picture so that needs work. Funny enough your picture in a low visibility situation makes the divers stand out more on the background, I have tried now playing just a bit with the picture (without cokouring the octo or removing the pointer) and it looks slightly better as the sponge is more in presence still the issue remains with the distractions
  9. In general your pictures don't look out of focus too much but the focus seems not to be on the subject or the subject is a too little part of the picture o Did you use autofocus with some form of AI? I find that switching off AIAF and any metering based on matrix works best in close up. I use center weighter or spot focus together with AIAF off to make sure the focus is in the center The further away you are more there is a chance that particles disturbs your focus, plus if you are too far and the light is really low the camera may struggle to focus entirely. So either use a focus light or get closer or use manual focus or focus lock (essential when you have crap in the water)
  10. I think the second one gives the idea that you are underwater, the first looks best but seems a picture taken on land Third one seems too saturated
  11. Just wanted to have some feedback on this picture (has not been edited other than cropping) I noticed afterwards that the fins could have been straight and the usual little particles in the water I also notice some minor fogging in the mask which is rather annoying but overall I just wanted to see if this picture says anything or not as I find most of the pictures with divers rather dull so am wondering if it is worth making an effort and 'posing' or should I not bother
  12. I had indeed read that article that in fact I fully comprehend After lots of thinking I have decided NOT to buy the inon light and instead get a small light (Fisheye FIX mini BUB kight saber) mounted on the top of the housing as it was a focus light. The reason is simple the video camera hasn't got an optical stabilizer and the footage comes quite shaky, I have therefore decided to spend time practicing to see if I am able to take any footage at all that does not make you sick before investing in any light As it stands looks like shooting macro on video is technically the most difficult thing to do (without a tripod) the opposite as with stills where macro is straightforward and wide angle more complex So for now the money has been invested in an ultralight tray with two handles on the side to make the rig more stable and an INON UWL-100 with red filter The small light on top should make possible to capture easy macro such as things on sand etc etc at average quality
  13. Thanks for your help but I was really wondering if anyone has tried with a LED wide beam light. I shoot pictures of close focus wide angle with one strobe only and they look fine. On this basis I really don't see why would I need two lights. But again has anyone tried?
  14. Yes the sola 600 is similar slightly more compact and double the price From what I read from magazines there is no substantial difference In any case that's not about which light The question is can I manage with only 1 light for macro?
  15. Hi There this is my first post so be understanding. I have recently bought a Sanyo HD2000 + Epoque EHS-1000HD housing off a mix of ebay and ex-demo at a very good price The camera has a very poor stabiliser so I am planning to buy an ultralight base with a handle to add stability I have experience as photographer and I am used at taking clips with my digital camera but mostly with wide angle and manual white balance However with macro for stills there is no chance without the strobe and I was wondering what is a decent albeit not too expensive choice for the video. I am planning to add a wide angle lens to my video kit but not planning to invest in any lights for that purpose most likely I will get a filter I am looking therefore at a low complexity set up that can ensure my macro is not going to be too dark. I have done some reading and I know that ideally you need to have one light directed to the subject from the top and one from the side however I was hoping to get away with just one video light. I have looked at option and I have come across the Inon LE-550W that I could rig to the ultralight base building a small arm with couple of clamps and a 5" arm ending with a YS mount for the light I wonder if anyone has experience with a similar set up for video and what are the results I am not intending to spend huge amount of money for two lights and I would also prefer to have a somewhat lighter set up than two lights on each side
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