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Posts posted by Interceptor121

  1. Yes you need to set custom white balance in Photo mode then it will carry over, the most useful settings are colour temperature and tint and you can also fine tune the manual white balance


    The key issue is the navigation to set custom white balance in the first place


    Filter wise it depends I have done a whole trip with it in Raja, in hindsight I maybe should have not used it on the other hand even with a filter the water was very green and was getting incredibly high colour temperatures.


    This is one of the videos with filter + custom white balance more are on my channel


  2. I have used filters to shoot video as per here using Ikelite push up filter on a wide angle lens



    For stills you don't need a filter as the camera shoots RAW and you can white balance later.

    For video you need to white balance the RX100 has got fine white balance settings but they are a pain to access as per my post




    Wide angle wise you definitely need one as 28mm without a dome become less than 55 field of view, nauticam recommends the Inon UWL-H100 you can get this lens with a 67mm thread or with an Inon bayonet mount, Nauticam sells this adapter too. Due to the number of changes of wet lenses in water that the macro shots require I would definitely recommend you get a bayonet mount. If your diopter is an M67 there is an adapter M67-LD

    If you want to stick to M67 mount the UWL-04 that the op has here is a fine lens or also the fix uwl28m52

  3. I have bought the Snake River Prototyping tray and arm assembly. But they didn't attach any instruction.



    Can anyone help with ideas how to assemble this arm??


    Thanks in advance.


    width=600 height=448http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/4829/loclinearm.jpg[/img]



    and then connect to this tray...


    width=600 height=448http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9470/traym.jpg[/img]



    I wish SRP would have instruction manual for this...

    The locline base goes on the top of the handle the oring might go under those then the locline segments snap onto it


    They should have terminations to which you can connect a sola, not sure if those are 3/4 or 1/2 but sola needs 1/2 so might need a reducer


    For the lights I have found that on a night dive 2x1200 is more than enough to scare off the fish and in day time they bear with it a little

    Not sure about 2x2000 I would also check the lights can commute between spot and flood I think there are two models and having the spot save using a torch

  4. As far as I recall nauticam uses +10 subsee for their shots that by the way are also cropped

    The rx100 has a pretty large capture area


    Compared to other compact cameras

    The camera doesn't have a macro mode and on land it works well until you are 2" away from your subject

    In water though it struggles to focus on small items and you need to sort back further to make it work

    So at least a +5 is needed just to be on par with other similar cameras and a +10 or even more is required for super macro

    As far as I can see the nauticam shots are also cropped

  5. I am considering getting a GoPro 3. Not certain whether the silver or black model.

    If I was shooting 1080/60 non-stop, how long would the battery last? Any one have experiences with anything similar to share?

    The silver doesn't shoot at 1080p60 only the black does

    In essence the silver is the same as the hero2 with less battery autonomy

  6. Hi Steve and congratulations on your purchase I am jealous you are going to lembeh!!

    Onto your questions out of the box the s100 don't do ttl in manual and manual is what you need for macro

    If you look around on google for CHDK ttl canon s95 you should find information on a script I have adapted for the canon hack that will enable ttl in manual

    If you don't manage or your strobe doesn't work in ttl with the s100 your starting point is the camera without a diooter and for super macro the subsee +5 unless you have Pygmy seahorse and you want to try the +10 this should also make it easier to focus especially if you don't have a focus light that I warmly recommend


    ISO 80 after all is a small sensor camera you want to keep noise to the minimum

    Aperture f8 the subsee are powerful and bring high magnification without you may keep to 6.3

    Shutter 1/250 or higher as at high magnification the minimum movement result in motion blur this still gives you some blue background against water otherwise 1/500 for black background

    Zoom wise I recommend working at full zoom and finding the working distance otherwise you may end up on top of the critters

    I recommend you practice on land with the diopters to determine the working distance at full zoom as that will make it much easier to focus basically once you see it magnified on the LCD you shoot to that respect set the magnification are to small

    Happy shooting

  7. Yes

    Not worth with any lens designed for 35mm

    The lens is very wide and not very close to the glass

    However for video am planning to shoot with the nauticam wet mate 85% of scenes

    Wide angle lens is only for special occasions

    Have spoken with a fellow lx7 nauticam peer and the best bet is the inon uwl-h100 however with dome would vignette

    If you are looking for a fisheye option apparently there is an uwl05 lens that should work with g1x that has a larger lens this could be a better candidate

    Personally I will not invest in any fisheye for the lx7 am good with a flat 100-110 lens

  8. Is it possible to achieve a 'bokeh' background when shooting video underwater?

    Any one have a sample clip?

    Bokeh needs shallow depth of field that is a combination of wide aperture and large sensor size

    Camcorders have small sensors and don't produce good bokeh

    DSLR users would be able to produce something more easily you may want to search Vimeo or YouTube

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