Interceptor121

No conjecture I am on mirrorless since 2015 and in fact I shot everything with the LCD until now With regards to the LCD the only issue is your eyesight as clearly the LCD is six times at least bigger than the evf lcd on a mirrorless and even the magnified viewfinder is not as big In addition you still have the viewfinder on the back of the housing where you can use the dioptric correction While for dslr two view finders were more usual I have not met one person with a mirrorless that regularly uses two In fact I know a few that had two and sold the straight one If there was no HDMI lag the best solution is a nice 5” monitor that can be angled as you like is very bright and has many other uses however the lag kills it as I have experienced myself Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

For me this is fisheye territory for schoold while the sharks need some zoom I am going with WWL-1 and zoom lens which is wider than your lens but narrower at the zoomed end except it is distorted

I remember your post as after I booked mine Your video is no longer available when I click on the link I am going in June and my target are actually fish schools and bait balls I am aware hammerhead are better seen in the colder water of dry season Because of the schools (several videos shot in June) and better visibility am tending more towards wwl-1 fisheye however I just bought a peak design camera cube and will be taking essentially any wide angle lens I have as I have 10 kg plus personal item, 23 kg standard luggage and 1 sport equipment item Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Interesting. I have seen a few videos shot in June. I do not think I will miss the fisheye and zoom lenses are required. I have just checked the packing and I have 25 Kg to fill up so I could actually also take the fisheye with the TC but somehow I do not think this is worth it

I will be in Malpelo mid june. Not many hammerns but plenty of fish shoals My plan is to take Sony 28-60 and 28 Prime with WWL-1 Tamron 17-28 20-40 and Sonyu 24-70 with 180mm dome I am not planning to take a fisheye as there is not really any coral or CFWA Anybody who has been there would like to comment I would appreciate it

I do not need this feature as the LCD and EVF itself have a nice red circle when the camera records a video

This lens not officially on the port chart works well with the 180mm dome using a 35mm extension on the N120 adapter I have used the zoom gear for the 17-28 with a small modding 20mm is not very wide but ideal for situations where you have people in the shot The lens is also extremely sharp at the edges more than WACPs etc etc also because it is narrower

If you are thinking to a flat port this is around 1.4x more for case two However lens real focal length changes with distance so you will find 28mm is wider than it should be and 60mm is shorter than you would expect Using the lens underwater without any form of correction is not ideal. The working distance becomes 40cm However with the WWL-1 the lens keeps focussing pretty much on the glass two examples for you The first shot is uncropped and the second is 1:1 aspect but not cropped This is the 100% of shot 2 at 60mm Because the focal length and magnification is increasing depth of field is dropping. The shot is at f/11 but the background is soft this was intentional on this shot but some people like to have all sharp so take into account you are looking at f/22 and smaller for close up if you wanted all to be sharp

If the op has not tested the lens topside I would be amazed Any time I get a new lens I check for decentering and run comparative shots on a tripod to other lenses I have before investing in underwater housing gears etc

Example images would be great to understand more

Draw your own conclusions https://interceptor121.com/2023/05/23/sony-28mm-prime-vs-28-60mm-zoom-with-the-nautical-wwl-1/

The 9mm is a very small lens The best would be the 3.5” wide angle port but I am afraid even that one may have issues The dome wont work well is too far away from the lens pupil so it will pull at the edges as your images show Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have concluded the write up after over one month of testing https://interceptor121.com/2023/05/20/nauticam-wacp-c-vs-wwl-1/ Conclusion image quality is the same

I wondered the same when I saw this on my A1 Any time you use a flat port longer than 45mm the AF beam hits the port so this is useless and better set the camera to disable it No idea why Nauticam spent the time and energy for this feature in the housing

You don't know until you know I guess The luminance histogram that is present in most live view and finders is useless however with a mirrorless you can have a quick review of 0.5 seconds with the RGB histogram which is more useful and then from there move to burst and forget about it Obviously if you go around the shark and it is a sunny day the exposure may change dramatically so being on the sunny side and not in the shadow is key

Unless you have live view you don’t know how the shot is exposed You can of course use the LCD but autofocus may work differently Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Whale sharks are normally at the surface or near the surface and swim faster than you think i got best results snorkelling with a small rig with no lights or strobes As the animal is large you need sufficient depth of field, they do not move fast but 1/100 is rather slow At the surface you will not lack light but it can be murky Obviously having a DSLR is a major disadvantage as you will need to check your shots in the LCD after framing and this means the shark would have moved. So make sure you got all correct and then fire away in burst continous autofocus with a slow rate

Some of the best thresher shark short clip and with a micro four third you were priviledges it was not super deep excellent You can see the benefit of shooting log in that scenes as it manages the highlights very well and at the same time shadows are perfect I like very much the topside and the shark some of the other clips I do not particularly like the color of the water but I guess this is an outcome of log and the conditions themselves

to the moderators: we should close this thread and rerun for 2023 as things have moved on

I am looking at one of this https://www.mares.com/en_GB/x-vision-ultra-10 they seem to contain a filter anyone used one of those? In addition to the hydrodynamic design, special attention has also been paid to aesthetics: in the black and grey versions, the Gold and Silver models are available with mirrored lenses, which, in addition to their appearance, also guarantee a better filtering of light in and out of the water, while still allowing excellent eye contact with diving companions. In particular, the Gold version with gold mirrored lenses is dedicated to increasing visibility in murky water, while in the Silver version, silver mirrored lenses help reduce reflection in shallow water or sandy bottoms.

Yes cost benefit is subjective. Normally people that have money to spare don't quibble and just do it. When funds are less avaiable you tend to find reasons for the spend not to be worth it. Any kind of hardware refresh has cycles. Cameras for me are 5 years similar to a computer however recently I got a new laptop and found out some files of the A1 cannot be processed by my desktop with the same agility. I had no appreciation of the value of the laptop until I bought it but this was not the main reason for it which was too much time spent on trips processing denoise (that now I do not even need)

That could have been done with a jpeg. HEIF has nothing to do with it The value of luminance or RGB is always 0 to 1 and the bit depth controls gradations not dynamic range Gamma compression is the process that makes 8 bits RGB contain 10 stops of dynamic range. You can of course compress more for example using log but the display is limited to the said 10 stops before All of this has been available since forever on my GH5 I used to shoot in CineD because it has 12 stops DR However some of those compressed gamma alter the ISO so in the end it is better to understand how your camera works and use the display for what it is One thing that many people do not know is that you may still have a perfect gray histogram when shooting however later you find out one of the RGB channels clipped. As luminance is an average you will not find out if you do not look at the RGB histograms

For all cameras the histogram is based in srgb curve Raw histograms in camera don’t exist. If you change the settings of your jpeg you also change the histogram on case the gamma curve is altered from standard. HEIF or JPEG matters nothing The claim that HEIF can output more luminance because is based on 10 bits is also flawed as luminance goes from 0 to 1. Y = aR + bG +cB What 10 bit gives you is gradations however the camera display is normally 8 bits. If you send an HEIF to a mobile phone that is 10 bit you will see the extra gradations and tones Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The decision to buy a new camera is subjective however to say that the D500 is in the same league of the other options and will produce identical or even similar idea is very arguable in fact incorrect Any time the op will 'upgrade' or actually replace his camera will be faced with switching costs. The D500 was not a cheap camera when introduced considering it is APSC The DSLR housing in general are more expensive than Sony mirrorless Eventually the op camera shutter will fail and will need to consider again if repairing the camera or buying a new one I think changing camera every 3 year is a bit hasty, 5 about right, more just a case of sweating your assets but you can't say the performance is the same

Actually no you will get better images underwater. The D500 is a pretty dated 20 megapixel camera. Yes it is very versatile and effective but lacks in resolution and dynamic range compared to your other models evaluated. Any camera replacement comes at cost