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Nautilus Cairns

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Posts posted by Nautilus Cairns

  1. This has been an interesting thread as I am looking at getting the Pana 8-18 for above water use and was curious as to how it would go underwater.

    I currently shoot mainly macro with an Oly 60mm macro lens in a Nauticam housing plus a +10 diopter with Inon S2000 strobes which has been fine. Occasionally I do also a bit of CFWA with a Pana 8mm fisheye in a small dome port using the same strobes which are OK for CFWA work.

    To do some serious WA stuff means a big capital outlay, as in addition to the AUD1200 lens, there is AUD1200 for the 7 inch dome port and zoom gear plus AUD1800 for a couple of Inon Z330 strobes. That's around AUD4200, whew!!

  2. What about olympus 9-18 in 4" wide angle port? Or were you trying to reuse the 3.5?

    Interceptor. I'm trying to balance my above water needs with those underwater. In the wide angle department I have the Lumix 8mm which I use with the 3.5" dome. Fine for CFWA underwater, but has limitations depending on the subject due to it's very properties of being a fisheye. The 8mm FE also has limited opportunities above water. I would like to get the 12mm primarily for above water use as a fast WA lens but it may be limited underwater as pointed out in this thread. It is also a fairly expensive lens so I would not want to have to buy a dedicated port for it.


    I use the 60mm macro above and below water and I really like it! The 45mm f1.8 is fine for above water.


    Finally I have the 12-50mm kit lens which currently is my do everything lens above and below (in the macro port),but is not stellar really in any department.


    The Lumix 7-14mm has promise to fit both environments, but will also need a dedicated port. A not inexpensive package.


    So basically, like most folk I guess, I'm trying to get the biggest bang for the buck!

  3. Hello Hezi


    I too went down the route of using the 65 port for both the 60mm macro, which is a great lens, and also for the 12-50mm which came with the camera. I have also used a +10 diopter with the 12-50 at the 50mm end its OK, but the wide angle end (12mm) suffers behind the flat port. I use the zoom gear from Austria.


    I concur with Phil about the focus gear as I very seldom need to use the one I bought for the 60mm lens and I would suggest not getting it.


    I would like a wide angle zoom and a dome port, but am still undecided which way to go.


    I also have the 8mm panasonic fisheye lens and the 3.5" port which works well for CFWA shots

  4. As soon as you start having changable lenses then ports become an issue (cost, availibility, packability)

    I have gone the Olympus route (E-PL3 in an Olympus housing) and can use the 60mm macro and the 9-18 behind the Zen port. or the 14-42 behind the standard port with a wet lens for macro.

    I only have live view and that does not seem to cause any focusing issues.

    I would like the 8mm fisheye but thats another port and the hand luggage is getting very full already.

    On the surface I find the pen series Ok but not as nice as my D300.

    I don't shoot video so cannot comment on that.

    The 8mm panasonic (Lumix) fisheye is very small and light and so too the Nauticam 3.5" port for it.No weight or bulk problems for travel.


    When I first made the step from a compact to the EM-5 I regretted not having the ability to shoot everything on the one dive, macro and wide using assorted wet lenses.I then reminded myself that the reason for the change was to get better image quality with good glass and more camera options. So I got the 60mm macro and the 8mm fisheye. I don't have a good wide zoom yet so the 12-50 in the macro port is a, not particularly satisfactory, substitute.


    If having to make a decision on what type of subject you are going for prior to the dive is a major problem then I suggest sticking with a compact rig.

  5. As many have advised before, strobes usually outlast your housing and camera so it pays to get something a bit more up market, albeit more expensive,so you can transfer it to your next rig. Also as you have a compact setup a high performance, compact strobe like the S2000 makes sense, particularly if you're traveling.


    I used to have a DS51 with my first Canon compact in an Ikelite housing, but sold it with that setup at the same time I upgraded to a CanonS95 in a Recsea housing. I bought first one then a second S2000 and was very happy with the performance of the whole kit.


    Now that I have an Olympus EM-5 in a Nauticam housing I will most likely upgrade the stobes to Inon Z240s.


    See what I mean?

  6. I do three overseas dive trips a year, all to countries where malaria is present. I've tried doxy a few times and although I have never had a problem with sun sensitivity it did give me a bloated stomach! I now follow Troprobo's approach and rely on using repellent and covering up in the evenings. Also check for insect screens and mossie coils in the accommodation areas. I understand that in PNG some places have a greater risk of malaria than others. I too am not a medical practitioner so this is just my experience :)

  7. Choosing lightweight bags to start with is a big advantage, having a bag that weighs almost half your baggage allowance doesn't help. My check-in roller bag weighs around 3kg empty and it is fairly nondescript so doesn't attract unwanted attention. Not sure of its longevity as I have only done two trips so far with this particular bag, but so far so good.


    I also pack my various components in padded bags and in different places like Erik, however I take a fold-up soft cooler in my check-in bag to use on dive boats to hold my camera rig which I assemble at the destination, whether its a live-aboard or a resort.


    I appreciate that everyone has their own preferred packing method, but this works for me.

  8. This may sound overly simplistic, but perhaps some careful thought as to what you really need to take on the trip may be the answer.


    I travel a few times a year to various tropical destinations taking dive gear and a 4/3 camera rig with strobes. (I know that's an immediate advantage over DSLR travellers)


    Even so, after a while I realised I was repeatedly taking stuff I never used! I can now pack everything I need in a lightweight check-in roller bag (23kg), a carry-on backpack (7kg) and my one personal item (my camera and two lenses in a small camera shoulder bag) that I can carry on. Up to now I have resisted taking a laptop, using a smart phone instead, but I think that may change soon!


    If it looks like I may be getting close to the baggage limit of 23kg (Australian airlines) I buy an extra couple of kg in advance of travel which is a lot less expensive than paying excess baggage at the airport.


    Now without wishing to be too controversial maybe this baggage issue is an American thing! I am amazed how much stuff people think they need to take and this was driven home when I went camping with a couple of American friends a while ago. Wow! everything including the kitchen sink!


    Perhaps having such generous domestic baggage allowances in the USA makes it more difficult to be a bit ruthless when packing for an overseas trip?

  9. I have an S95 and like the S100 it can shoot with a strobe at high shutter speeds. I also have S2000 strobes and I would say that you may have the strobe power too high when you are only 3" to 6" from the subject or maybe the strobe is too close to the subject.


    I suggest for shooting macro you try using STTL with the strobe output strength at the C position on the EV controller. Try it in different positions but only change one thing at a time and look at the results. You will need to have the camera flash settings set to maximum so the strobe can set the strength through STTL.


    Also suggest you close down the aperture to f8 to maximise depth of field.


    Try playing around at home like Timthefish suggests, but don't fire off too many flashes in quick succession out of water. (see the Inon manual).

  10. I started out with my two S2000 strobes mounted with one on the M10 ball mount on the NA-EM5 housing and the other on the left side handle on a ULCS TRDM tray I already had from a previous setup. I also used the Nauticam handstrap and it was great for macro work, nice and compact when used with 3" and 5" arms. However as Interceptor points out, once you use longer arms for wide angle, two handles is the way to go. It also frees up a bit of space for a focus light in the "cold shoe".


    I ended up having an aluminium tray made up for $30 because I wanted something simple, rigid and which allowed me to place the handles where they suited me. I can access all controls with both hands on the handles. (I don't wear gloves)


    Having two handles also allowed me to have a strap rigged up between them for the boat crew to use when passing the camera to or from me when I was in the water.

  11. First off I do not not believe there is a right or wrong answer to lens and port choices, it is a personal choice. I am thinking along the same lines as Ryan as far as lens choices for my EM-5 which I use in a Nauticam housing. However I decided to use the same macro port 65 for both the 60mm macro lens and the 12-50mm that came with the camera (the only two lenses I have at this point) for a few reasons:


    • For traveling I only need only one port for both lenses.
    • With after market zoom gear on the 12-50mm in the macro 65 port, plus a +5 Subsea the macro performance at 50mm is about the same as the 12-50 using its macro switch (at 43mm).
    • Using a flip diopter holder I still have the full 12-50 zoom range when not shooting macro subjects.
    • Although the cost of a subsea and flip diopter plus the zoom gear brings it up close to buying the dedicated Nauticam port for the 12-50, I still have a port to use for the excellent 60mm macro lens.
    • I can easily remove the after market zoom gear from the 12-50 when I want to use it topside. Not that easy with the dedicated Nauticam zoom gear I believe. I use the 12-50 for almost all my topside shooting when I'm traveling.
    • When I get the Panasonic 8mm FE and 3.5inch dome my guess is that I will be using the Macro 65 port just for the 60mm lens and the 12-50 will be largely my topside lens together with a yet to be decided fast prime lens.
    • I can still use the 67mm flip diopter on the macro 65 port although I will most likely go for a more powerful diopter if I want to go really super macro.
    • That just leaves me with a somewhat redundant bit of zoom gear for the 12-50

    Still tossing up about wide angle options like a 7-14 zoom

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  12. Playing with a Subsee +5 on an Oly 60mm macro (EM-5) on land I need to bring the subject to about 50mm away to focus and I can see a noticeable but not major magnification.


    Putting the +5 on the Oly 12-50 makes a big difference in magnification at the 50mm end, again reducing the minimum focusing distance by approximately half to around 90mm. Will this working distance increase underwater?


    I don't think I would be bothered using the +5 Subsee on the 60mm when I am going primarily for macro. May be worth it on the 12-50 for those dives where you are not sure what you may see. I use this lens also in my macro port.

  13. Your post prompted me to have a look at the record lever on my NA-EM5 housing which I use for auto focus when shooting macro. I note Karen that you have upgraded to an EM1, however the pin on mine was also sticking out a fraction so thanks for the heads up!


    Give my regards to Dieter.



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