Jump to content

andycornish

Member
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About andycornish

  • Rank
    Damselfish

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Additional Info

  • Show Country Flag:
    United Kingdom
  • Camera Model & Brand
    Canon 600D, Canon EOS M (Nauticam Housing), FujiFine Pix F80R & GoPro Hero HD
  1. Thank you for the informative and helpful feedback I am definitely now considering the tokina 10-17mm, the price difference with the canon 8-15mm I think would be better spent towards a new strobe (as the last one flooded). Having never used a fisheye lens I am looking forward to the challenge and bringing a new aspect to my photography. @megatooth I will send you a PM
  2. Morning All, After a lot of reading on forum, researching on prices and generally delaying spending money I seem to have narrowed down my choice to two lenses: Tokina 10-17mm f/3.5-4.5 Sigma 15mm F2.8 EX DG Diagonal Fisheye I am leaning towards the Sigma as it is a prime and i gain a couple of f stops, I have a 50mm prime I use on land and I like how crisp the images are compared to 'normal' zoom. For reference I am currently using a Canon EOS (mirrorless) with a 22mm lens in a housing, but will be taking my DSLR underwater once I can save the funds for strobes then a housing. Cheers Andrew
  3. Thanks for the advice Bill, my other thought with a 'zoom' lens' would be keeping it stable to get a sharp image especially it is was deep and darker. I have heard only good things about the Tokina 10-17 but they are pricey ! Quick final question, with shots of subjects which are further away are strobes still effective ? (at the 2m+ range) or is it better to try and work with the natural light ? I realise this would be dependant on strobe, water conditions etc !
  4. I will try to keep this brief, I recently returned from a weeks diving in the red sea and was my first extended go with new camera and housing (details below), the problem I had certain wildlife is easily spooked, no matter how slow I approached, minimal/no bubbles with the lens on the camera I could not get close up for some of the shots I would like to take. Two specific occasions were: a large Napolean wrase was behind a pinnacle I swam around to get a photo, said wrase then proceded to swim around the pinnacle as soon as I got closer. Second occasion was an amazing dive with 20+ hammerhead shark shoal (unsure of the plural) it was a surreal dive but looking back at the photos I would have like to have got a good close up (able to see denticles on skin would be good), in this situation the sharks were very curious but wary. Over the space of 4 dives gradually got closer but 2 metres was the limit they would swim off if we got any closer. My camera is a Canon EOS M in a Nauticam Hosuing with a 22mm f/2 lens, it performed really well for the majority of the trip apart from close ups (bar lion fish and moray's which dont move away!). My choice now is one of the other EF-M mount lenses (18-55 f3.5/5.6 or 55-200 f4.5/6.3) or use the canon adaptor (already own), and fit any of canon's lenses. I own a 600D and have a few lenses, above water this would not be an issue as I could try a lens and if I didnt get on with it sell it on or return if for minimal loss, the added complication being if i purchase a new port then it adds quickly to the cost of trials and are more difficult to sell on/return. Any adivce or opinons welcome ! N.B. Current idea would be keep using the 22mm lens (with strobes I am saving for) most dives and then switch over to the longer lens for specific close up dives.
  5. Thanks for all the feedback, a proper 'photography' trip is something that I have considered, its only now I have graduated and started working it is something that I can afford ! While I will go on a 'photography' trip I enjoy diving with friends, and even if they seem frustrated underwater if I am taking a photo, they never moan afterwards about having photos of them or proof that we saw some sort of wildlife ! So we have a balance that I take can spend a minute or two taking a photo but wont 'hold up' the dive plan for it. A mirrrorless or 4/3rds setup is something that sounds more appealing, I would prefer to spend sometime first getting used to editing RAW and with a proper strobe (the last was an OEM one), the other part to this thinking is my parents live in Cornwall so I often travel down at the weekends and I quite often freedive sometimes in remote locations so a large full DSLR rig at the moment does seem daunting for that sort of work. Is there a 4/3 that anyone would reccomend ?
  6. I will try to keep this brief: Have been diving for around 5 years Mostly UK but warm water when possible 99% of the time dive with non-photographers Taking photo & film for about 4 years Photos on Fuji FX80 with&w/out Remora Strobe Film on Fuji & GoPro Have a Canon 600D for 2 years for dry photography Fuji: WB Control only Only JPEG Poor low light performance Poor shutter speed First started shooting when freediving and then when felt comfortable enough started shooting with first gopro then fuji and then fuji with strobe. For the last two years have had a Canon 600D for dry photography. On a recent liveaboard trip to the red sea the strobe flooded and died after the first day (still unsure where), the housing has taken some abuse over the years and has a fair share of cracks, taking this as a sign its time to upgrade. As I dont dive with photographers there does not tend to be time to play with settings/strobes etc on a dive so not looking to get a DSLR housing but want an upgrade from my current setup. Looking for more control than just WB. Looking for something more towards the top end of the "point&shoot" market, have heard good things about the Canon S110 & G12. Housing needs to be around the 60m mark and would be looking for two strobes as well. Any feedback & advice is very welcome.
  7. Been a while since I have done an edit and while avoiding my revision I have put together some footage from the summer, it has all been done on a GoPro 2 hence the less than clear footage at times, comments and criticism welcome. [vimeohd]54957975[/vimeohd]
  8. Im not sure if you have solved your problem now but have you considered Wi-Fi memort cards? http://uk.eye.fi/ Thats the link for the official site amazon sells them online
  9. To clarify I mean one of the pins that goes into the compact flash memory card
  10. I recently lent my canon 300d eos to a 'friend', and he handed it back yesterday. I tried to use it today and got Error 2 being displayed, eventually worked out one of the pins for the compact flash port has gone. Im assuming this error is due to the camera not being able to read the card, the 'friend' now refuses to admit he did it. So im looking for a way to fix the problem ? Is there one or is this camera body now useless ? I know its an old camera but I would like to get it working again. Cheers
  11. what is the rating on the depth rating on the housing ?
  12. I cant decide if I prefer the photo in colour or black and white, thoughts either way wanted.
  13. Hey, Been watching the classifieds for a while, looking for a dslr or Canon G9 level compact open to different brands, happy with just a camera and housing but open to full setup (i.e. camera, housing, strobes, lens, ports). Currently using a fuji compact and go pro HD, looking for an upgrade after finding the limitations of them after a week in teneriefe. Needs to be in the UK or wiling to post. PM or reply to the post Cheers Andy
  14. Thanks for all the invaluable advice Sort of related question, I have had it suggested to me that I get a focusing light, and had this one suggested 'Fantasea Nano Focus Light'. Out of the weeks diving only one will be a night dive, with finances tight is it worth buying it ? Will I notice a difference during the day ?
  15. Thank you, im hoping to take some footage on a non rainy day and also take footage of a deep dive from a freedivers perspective. The footage is filmed in 16x9 but with rendering settings I use at the moment it takes it down to 4:3, I need to work on finding a setting that gives me 16x9 output with 720p or 1080p footage but with a file size that is not too large for uploading. The video above was 220MB file for the 7 minutes, for 16:9 it currently makes the file 1.5-2x the file size.
×
×
  • Create New...