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About GeorgeH

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  1. Price lowered, now $2000.00 plus shipping and fees if any. https://pbase.com/georger/aquatica_d3s_housing&page=all
  2. I am selling my lightly used Aquatica D3S Housing with virtually unused standard eye piece (I used the Aquatica View Finder). It was $4,190.00 new. The housing has 30 dives at the most and has been in storage for over 4 years due to medical issues. Other then scratches on the bottom from Puget Sound’s rocky bottom, it is in excellent condition. The housing includes a pair of Nikonos connectors and an Ikelite connector. I ordered Ikelite, it was delivered with Nikonos and they added the Ikelite while keeping the dual Nikonos. I will include an unused O-Ring. After 4 years I recommend the battery is changed. The strobe and focus light mounting balls visible in the pictures are NOT included. I am the original owner and will ship in the original factory supplied box. https://aquatica.ca/en/manuals/d3s.instructions.pdf I am also selling my Nikon D3S Body. It is also in excellent condition with all original accessories and unopened documentation. I am including two batteries, an assortment of Compact Flash cards including 2 ea. 32 GB cards and 2 ea. 16 GB cards. Also included are 2 ea. CF carrying cases, 2 ea. Lexar USB card readers and 2 ea. Lexar Firewire Card Readers. The camera has 86,250 actuations. I used it to shoot sports which is where most of the shutter count came from. I’ve owned every full-sized Nikon Body, currently have a D5 and D850 and the D3S is the most solid feeling and handling body of them all. Low light capability is great and allows shooting without strobes in bright clear water. Of course, strobes will be better. I also have a Really Right Stuff L-Bracket for sale separately. Price for the Housing and Camera Body is $2,650.00 plus shipping and any fees. Feel free to make an offer. USA sales only. Local Seattle pickup available. Here is a link to more pictures. Click on a thumbnail for larger images. https://pbase.com/georger/aquatica_d3s_housing&page=all Thank you.
  3. Seems the batteries in both DS161's are fine. I'll still need to test how long the charge will last but I don't anticipate an issue. Thanks.
  4. Thanks Dave, hopefully they will work OK, I am DIY on a number of things but would have someone do it for me of just buy some backups. Have the same issue with my focus light, can light, computer, housing sensor, etc. I see you are in Seattle and shoot Nikon as well.
  5. I have a pair of Ikelite DS161’s that are around 8 years old and have been in storage for 4 years due to some medical issues that have been resolved. I think I charged them a few times but it has been well over the recommended 6 months since I have. They seem to be taking a charge OK. What should I expect for battery life and how much may I have degraded battery health and how long they will hold a charge? I will get now batteries if needed but hoping they can still get me through a 2-dive day. My full left hip replacement is fully healed and I am planning on getting back in the water, get some dives in, probably some refresher training, and then get the camera and strobes back in action. Thanks
  6. Has anyone tried? dpreview mentions a few subtle body changes in their D4s preview, including a slightly deeper grip, AF-ON button easier to press and AF point selector made of plastic instead of rubber. Hopefully those changes will not require much if any change in current D4 housings in order to accommodate the D4s. Thanks.
  7. I shot the D4s for the first time yesterday while covering a Major League Soccer game and was grinning ear to ear as I edited my images. The files are gorgeous, the AF is amazing, and I haven't even tested the high ISO improvements others are reporting. I still have my D3s for underwater and it is still a great body but it would be more convenient to standardize at some point, at least until the new body is introduced in a couple years. I could care less what the pixel peeper testers are reporting; my first experience matched what I was hearing from the sports shooters I know of and respect and the improvements are not subtle. I don't know if I will seriously consider a housing upgrade but was hoping to get a sense of how dramatic a redesign of the D4 housings will be required in order to accommodate the D4s.
  8. Any Nikon shooters that use Nikon Capture NX 2 care to comment on the practical benefits of the two recent updates referenced below? I would be especially interested in dealing with images taken with a Full Frame body and the 14-24 zoom. Thanks. Capture NX 2.4.4 •An Automatic (Underwater) option has been added to the Auto Distortion pull-down menu under Camera & Lens Corrections in the Adjust section of the Edit List. However, the Automatic (Underwater) option is only displayed when all of the following conditions are met: ◦The image was captured with an advanced camera with interchangeable lenses that supports underwater automatic distortion control, and a lens that also supports the function. ◦The image was captured in RAW format or in JPEG format with the camera's Auto distortion control function disabled. Distortion control data New firmware - (L) Version 1.009 [supported cameras] D4 / D90 / D600 / D800 / D800E /D3100 / D3200 / D5000 / D5100 / D5200 / D7000 / D7100 Distortion control data are used to correct barrel and pincushion distortion during shooting and editing. They can be loaded into cameras that support distortion control.
  9. If the goal is purity of in camera capture, why not shoot full frame and not use DX crop as an "advantage" over those not using it? As the original thread title states; I don't get it.
  10. By definition it is cropping. Nikon calls one of the crop aspect ratios “DX crop” for example. If you select one of the crop modes prior to capturing an image you are making a decision to crop a portion of the full frame sized sensor. If my intention was to frame loose and/or gain a greater working distance, I would choose to shoot full frame and crop in post rather than crop in camera for the reasons I mentioned in my original post. In my opinion, a shooter using this crop mode to meet requirements of a competition is not showcasing superior skill while meeting the requirements. The photographer is simply choosing a different approach or gaming the rules to achieve a perceived advantage. Not that I care to enter such a competition and have no dog in the fight. The only reason I would choose DX or other aspect ratio crop options is to increase shutter speed while shooting down field sports where I always need to crop anyway before submitting images for publication or I need card space and a similar fast action scenario where I will need to crop. I shoot a D3S UW and D4s for sports and neither shutter speed or card space is ever an issue so I never use DX crop.
  11. I have little interest in photo contests but even if I did, don’t know where I would choose to crop in camera. I am all for getting it right in camera since I prefer to limit processing time and with strobes it shouldn't require much anyway. I read the justification that cropping in camera demonstrates superior skill. Why? If your objective is to fill the frame, use the entire FF sensor. Cropping in camera suggests you plan to have a greater working distance and choose to discard the outside area of your sensor. Cropping in post does the same thing. How about diopters and filters? Are they acceptable but you should prohibit adjusting white balance and making lens corrections in post? Removing distracting items in the frame and artificially influencing sea life behavior clearly questions integrity and skill but choosing to crop in frame vs. in post? If you plan your dive with a subject in mind, take the setup suited to accomplish the task and set up your shot to fill the full frame. If you get the added benefit of a brighter viewfinder, less water between the lens and subject, and more light control, why crop in camera? Shooting ambient light might give you the faster shutter speed mentioned with the D800 but are of little value when using strobes. If you want to fill the frame why not move closer or bring a longer lens? If shooting unpredictable subjects that are likely to move out of the frame faster than you can track them, appropriate technique and skill would suggest you frame a little looser. I have no problem if a specific contest has rules prohibiting cropping in post. Should cropping in camera be prohibited as well? I don’t agree it is the preferred technique that demonstrates superior skill of the photographer using a setup that allows them to frame tight while using the full frame vs. the photographer that wants greater working distance and crops in camera. Granted cropping in post allows for more control for framing conventions like rule of 3rds and straight horizons and I'll give skill kudos to the photographer that can nail that in camera but that holds true for FF images and images cropped in camera. The main image is the same size and the lighting and depth of field are captured the same on the sensor whether you crop in camera or in post given the same equipment configuration and distance to subject.
  12. Just returned from taking the 105 f2.8D out for some night Lumpy hunting and while it is much harder to find the subject and lock focus, it gives me the background and Bokeh I was looking for. This required almost no editing. Depending on what I'm trying to shoot, I won't hesitate to take the 105 D. Thanks for the replies.
  13. Anyone care to share experiences with the Nikkor AF Micro 105/2.8 D on a full frame body? I have used the 60mm AFS Nikkor and it focuses very fast and is reasonably easy to use but I am disappointed in the background or Bokeh in some images from the two times I have used it. I’ve only had the housing in the water a few times as I am a relatively new diver having just passed 50 dives. I assume the AFS VR version has improved focus speed but the D version is the one I own and the optical quality is very close. My concern is during topside use, the AF 105 f2.8D has a tendency to hunt and it can be a slow process while the lens moves the focus from one extreme to the other and back again before finally locking on at times. By then a skittish creature would be long gone. With a good focus light, even in the dark green waters of Puget Sound, I am hoping it will be up to the task. I can see times and subjects I would want the option of the shallower depth of field I would get with the 105 D and the additional working distance. Thank you.George
  14. Over a year later and sorry, but I wasn’t prepared to wait 200 dives before attempting underwater photography. I did plan from the start though to develop reasonable buoyancy control and planning before adding the additional task loading of UW photography. I took my 50th dive Saturday, November 17th, and took my D3S underwater with me for the event. I’ve taken it with me on a two recent dives but ran into an issue where the Live View button was pressed as soon as I reached 10 feet or so, leaving me without access to the LCD. Saturday I moved the Live view lever up and away from the guide and for the first time had some feedback after taking shots. Not that I made any changes; I was content for this dive just to get the feel of the housing and know I was capturing something. Now I can begin the journey of understanding strobe positioning and power combined with appropriate SS and aperture settings based on lens and port configuration. Plus I need to work on how to do that reverse frog kick. Buoyancy control is definitely more of a challenge while attempting to set up a shot with a large housing and a couple strobes. I was beginning to feel good about my rapidly improving SAC rate that increased significantly on my Saturday dive with a camera. I assume that will drop as I get more comfortable. It has been a long process testing my patience. A lot has happened. Of course the D4 was released, which I now use for my sports photography, but the D3S is still a fine camera and it is nice to have a third body on the sidelines at times anyway. Here is the token first shot of a tiny squid that was not happy to see me. Obviously the hot spot and shadow tell me my strobe positioning was not ideal but it is a start. What a blast I had. The dive was too short and my constant grin was making my mask leak. I can't wait to start working on becoming an UW photographer.
  15. My images from this shoot shows 1/8000ss in the exif data. Could this be a software bug or did I miss something in my settings? With an incorrect flash bulkhead, I needed to improvise and shoot ambient light. The housing does need some corrections for identified issues; AF/ON control didn't work and the flash bulkhead was Nikonos, not the requested Ikelite. Could the housing be forcing the shutter speed as well? I decided to shoot aperture priority with a 60mm macro, selected auto ISO, max 6400, f8, min 200ss. The exif data reads 1/8000ss for all the images. That can't be right. Why might the exif be incorrect? Thanks.
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