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About GeorgeH

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  1. Thanks Chris, I have a coiled lanyard but never really liked using it. I'm not seeing the picture. Regards
  2. I’m considering Lanyard options for an Aquatica D850 Housing with a pair of Ikelite DS161 strobes with a pair of ultralight arms for each strobe. I’m wondering what length the Lanyard should be and if it makes sense to have a pair in order to attach a snap bolt to each shoulder D-Ring on my BC. I am transitioning to a long hose with bungeed backup and need to consider that. I have watched the recent video but it doesn’t mention length. Most of my dives are beach dives in the cool green water of Puget Sound and there can be a bit of a walk over rocky beach, stairs and/or hills. That also means a drysuit with drysuit gloves. The handle configuration would likely be the most used but having a hand free assuming I’m also carrying my fins would be convenient. The attached picture shows an Aquatica 20” Lanyard option with their Mounting bracket. I’ve ordered the mounting brackets. Aquatica also has a 10” option. In the overall scheme of things, I’m also open to just buying an Aquatica Lanyard though I realize they aren’t difficult to make and cheaper options are available. With a 20-inch lanyard, what do I do with the lanyard once I am diving? I don’t want it getting in the way of controls. I never used one before but as I get back in the water and get some more training, including deploying an SMB, I’m ready to add a Lanyard. Thank you.
  3. Am I alone in using a dive light as a communication/signaling device? I agree with comments and the video that mention the advantages of a focus light. I personally prefer, in addition, a bright dedicated dive light with a narrow beam. While a focus light can double as a dive light to light your way, it doesn’t work as well as a communication device. Most any dive light can be attached to the back of your hand and won’t hinder your ability to hold a camera. Especially on a night dive where hand signals are difficult to see but even on a day dive, the ability to get a buddy’s attention and communicate with agreed upon movements is the way I was taught. Especially in Puget Sound where a day dive can have dark, low visibility even at moderate depths.
  4. I use a Solo mounted to my housing as a focus light and while it can double as a dive light, I also use a can light with a goodman handle. There are other light options with built in battery that don't require the can and cord. The can light is very bright and has a narrow beam that cuts through more of our dark green water with poor visibility at times. The goodman handle allows me to also hold my housing and is available for communication with my dive buddy, either pointing out an interesting subject or alerting them to navigation, air check, trouble, etc.. There are generic options but this is an example for your existing dive light that will keep your hands free. https://www.sherwoodscuba.com/products/fins/products/accessories/products/~70238-Neoprene-Light-Holder---STLH--
  5. I ordered an Aquatica Housing for my D850, lowering the price to $1,750.00
  6. While getting my regs and BC serviced I finally had them install the long hose and bungeed secondary. I was planning on doing it many years ago but never got around to it and then medical issues kept me out of the water for over 4 years. My neighbor is my normal dive buddy and we have discussed my hose changes and will practice until second nature. I’ve also set up a session or two with a local GUE instructor to confirm proper equipment configuration and to practice long hose routing and air share. In my case I use a can light and plan on tucking the long hose under it. He wants me to enroll in his fundies class but I’m not sure I want to go through it at this stage of my diving. I’ve heard it can be exhausting. Regardless, I do want to take some custom classes from him that cover many of the same concepts and could care less about a card. The can light may complicate a one-handed donation and switch to my secondary while holding the camera, if safe to do so, even if I need to donate after clearing the hose from behind my neck but before untucking the primary hose, I would have as much room as a traditional setup and can untuck the hose once we are both safely breathing. One consideration depending on how strict divers want to be under covid protocol is not donating a primary I have been using. One suggestion was to use the neck bungeed secondary and clip off the long hose to the chest d-ring to donate if needed. I also don’t think anyone is going to worry about that when out of air. I still need to figure out a workable lanyard solution. I’ve tried a few and have never been satisfied.
  7. Sorry I wasn't clear, I was thinking about safely ending the dive including a safety stop if possible.
  8. I finally switched to the long hose but haven’t dove with it yet. I needed to order a new drysuit, my old one can’t be repaired. Sharing air while holding a large camera housing with strobes will always be a challenge and can be dropped in either configuration but I like the concept of the longer hose in just about any scenario, possibly even more so if sharing air in a controlled way with a calm diver that would allow me to keep hold of my housing and comfortably complete the dive. These videos are entertaining and informative.
  9. There are great drysuits made out of both Trilaminate and neoprene. There is a difference between standard neoprene and crushed/compressed neoprene drysuits. You should be able to find a quality crushed neoprene suit for a bit less than a quality trilaminate. Generally a quality crushed neoprene drysuit will be tougher than a trilaminate. There will be exceptions but I feel differently than TimG. Puget Sound has similar temperatures. I just ordered a new customized Bare Sentry Tech Dry, made out of high density Yamamoto neoprene with high stretch and high resistance to compression, I had a Bare SB and while out of the water the last 5 years, a mouse chewed a hole in it and with the seams delaminating, Bare offered a trade-in. I loved the SB, a unique stretch trilaminate that Bare could never control from delaminating. I had considered the Bare X-MISSION EVOLUTION but decided on the Sentry. There are pros and cons to both. The crushed, high density neoprene suits can add a little insulation but not much. Trilaminate adds none and you rely exclusively on undergarments. Crushed neoprene won't change buoyancy, either does Trilaminate, are stretchy and don't tend to be as baggy as trilaminate and trilaminate doesn't stretch at all. If you travel a lot, the trilaminate is much lighter and drys much faster than neoprene.
  10. If you currently shoot Aquatica and would like to move up to Full Frame, this might be a good fit. Especially if you have top side uses that could take advantage of the D3s AF tracking, high speed burst shooting, and low light capabilities. This camera is made for bird in flight and sports shooting. If you have kids or grandkids that play sports, participate in theater, dance or music, you will be the group photographer so forget about having any free time.
  11. I still use CF in my D3S and while it is only used for UW shooting now, it was used extensively for sports shooting where rapid removal and downloading was critical in that time sensitive, competitive field where getting your images uploaded and available to editors onsite was often more important than having the best image. Over 86,000 actuations and only one bent pin in a card reader and it was easy to resolve. I don't disagree we have better options now and do prefer the dual XQD cards in my D5 over CF but not crazy about the D850 XQD/SD configuration. I prefer the same type of card for both slots. I have no real motivation to get CF Express cards but happy Nikon is providing a firmware update in case I ever want to.
  12. Price lowered, now $2000.00 plus shipping and fees if any. https://pbase.com/georger/aquatica_d3s_housing&page=all
  13. I am selling my lightly used Aquatica D3S Housing with virtually unused standard eye piece (I used the Aquatica View Finder). It was $4,190.00 new. The housing has 30 dives at the most and has been in storage for over 4 years due to medical issues. Other then scratches on the bottom from Puget Sound’s rocky bottom, it is in excellent condition. The housing includes a pair of Nikonos connectors and an Ikelite connector. I ordered Ikelite, it was delivered with Nikonos and they added the Ikelite while keeping the dual Nikonos. I will include an unused O-Ring. After 4 years I recommend the battery is changed. The strobe and focus light mounting balls visible in the pictures are NOT included. I am the original owner and will ship in the original factory supplied box. https://aquatica.ca/en/manuals/d3s.instructions.pdf I am also selling my Nikon D3S Body. It is also in excellent condition with all original accessories and unopened documentation. I am including two batteries, an assortment of Compact Flash cards including 2 ea. 32 GB cards and 2 ea. 16 GB cards. Also included are 2 ea. CF carrying cases, 2 ea. Lexar USB card readers and 2 ea. Lexar Firewire Card Readers. The camera has 86,250 actuations. I used it to shoot sports which is where most of the shutter count came from. I’ve owned every full-sized Nikon Body, currently have a D5 and D850 and the D3S is the most solid feeling and handling body of them all. Low light capability is great and allows shooting without strobes in bright clear water. Of course, strobes will be better. I also have a Really Right Stuff L-Bracket for sale separately. Price for the Housing and Camera Body is $2,650.00 plus shipping and any fees. Feel free to make an offer. USA sales only. Local Seattle pickup available. Here is a link to more pictures. Click on a thumbnail for larger images. https://pbase.com/georger/aquatica_d3s_housing&page=all Thank you.
  14. Seems the batteries in both DS161's are fine. I'll still need to test how long the charge will last but I don't anticipate an issue. Thanks.
  15. Thanks Dave, hopefully they will work OK, I am DIY on a number of things but would have someone do it for me of just buy some backups. Have the same issue with my focus light, can light, computer, housing sensor, etc. I see you are in Seattle and shoot Nikon as well.
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