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Everything posted by johnjvv

  1. There are two lockable push buttons on the strobe, one is your focus light and the other one it Advanced Circuit Cancel which needs to be pushed in and locked when in manual...
  2. Dont take my advice but I jump of the pier holding my camera above my head and all ok thus far. It is clipped to my bcd.... have a look at opticaloceansales, they sell the best lanyard I have been able to find, it does not have finicky pieces of plactic on it and it is made of a material that you could cut with a knife if you had to, unlike a cable... http://opticaloceans...nyard-clip.html As a rule of thumb I always remove and check my o-rings when I have cracked the seal after the housing has been in the water. Other things to remember....stupid as it might sound... Check your camera before entering the water, make sure all the buttons are lined up, make sure your memory card and battery are in, you dont want to fiddle around once you are ready to go in the water!! Dont use too much grease Use the right grease, the wrong type can damage your o-rings! Have fun!!!
  3. Yep...it is $50 for the adapter so overall the Nauticam is about $200 less...
  4. I think I am coming to the realization that I just have to take a plunge, get something and live with the decision!!! There seems to be no clear cut answer...
  5. Nice shots Jim...where are the dumpling squid??!! Look forward to some frisky animal activity when this cold goes...
  6. Stoo.... How did you go with the new viewfinder? Cheers, John
  7. Jim, Ha! I take you are rugged up...I am ready to go!!! I have new fins, the very wide type and you can be assured of a dust cloud until you let me have a go with your VF!!! I am trying to decide between the two, the Aquatica one will cost about $50 more than the Nauticam. It seems like the Aquatica one is bulkier without the underwater adjustment. Aquatica can be adjusted prior to installation and if setting it up is a one off thing then it should not be a deciding factor. I suppose the real thing is which one is nicer to look through and unfortunately I have not seen the Aquatica one yet. I did look through yours before and it is a million times better that a standard viewfinder. Aquatica seemed like the obvious choice because that is what I already have and it is a bit difficult to come to grips with mixing and matching brands on my housing. However if it was clear cut that Nauticam is better than I would go for it instead. Regarding the 45 degree VF, yes I have considered it however it is more the magnification I am after...then again the 45 degree is under that magical $1000 mark...and I see the Nauticam on rotates anyway... Hard to decide.... Cheers....
  8. Hello, I finally decided to get a viewfinder for my Aquatica AD 90 housing and was quite ready to get the Aquatica viewfinder as it seemed like the obvious choice. However I am have been recommended to also look at the Nauticam VF as it seems to do the same thing but cheaper. Money is not the ultimate decided here as the difference is marginal, I am really just looking to get the better product. I do not have the means to look at these before buying them and would appreciate opinions. I could not find any topics here comparing the products and if I have missed it I would be glad if someone could highlight them for me. Thanks John
  9. I just moved from the Middle East (Qatar) to Australia and discovering new things every day which is old to everyone around me...so just blame it on living in Kuwait!!! Yep...second time seeing this post however good seeing it again and still trying to get my dog (Qatari) out of the garage when it rains, once he learns to do that I will chuck him in a pool and take a couple photos!!
  10. Just regarding your comment on sand getting through the gap and o-ring into your camera..I am quite sure that this is physically impossible. I use an Aquatica housing and regularly put the camera on the sandy bottom and no sand ever gets through (not touching wood here). I appreciate that you have taken numerous courses however I agree with another comment above that it would be a good idea to go the through the loops with someone that knows this gear. I put my own setup together for my first dive and also had issues which I was able to resolve after doing it again with someone experienced. Good luck with your problem and am sure if you approach either Aquatica or Backscatter with your issues, that they would help you whether it be user or equipment related.
  11. Jim, Red light definitely disturbs less, there is no question about that. The issue I have in using the Z240 as a focus light is that I rarely point the strobe directly towards what I am photographing, therefore is does not really help using it as it is pointing away from the subject. I use my Inon strobe lights as my torch during night dives so if I ever use the red filter I would only use the screw in type so that I can remove it again whereas you only have one go with a sticker. Cheers, John
  12. That would depend on the type of cable you use to connect the camera to the strobe. If you are using a fiber optical cable it should be on and if you are using a sync cable then it should be off.
  13. There are probably two ways looking at it....what do other photographers think of your pictures and what do non photographers think of your pictures. Then for someone like me it is probably good to decide who I want to impress...
  14. Very nice! We passed the Chinamans hat last Saturday getting back from Pope's eye but did not jump in....smells great above water Port Phillip Bay is a pretty cool place for diving! Thinking vis this weekend will be a bit worse though after all the rain though...
  15. Hi!! I would recommend that you rather not select the Auto Shutter speed as it is darker under water and your camera will select slower shutter speeds leaving your photos blurry as it would freeze the action...rather let it automatically select the aperture and keep the shutter speed around 1/125. Otherwise, on manual settings, Start off with ISO 200, 1/125, f11, make sure you light the subject well with your strobe and adjust your strobe strength as required. Experiment with different shutter speeds and apertures, the f-stop to adjust depth of field and the shutter speed will change the colour of the water from light blue to black. I am sure what I am saying is very debatable but I think you should be alright with those settings There is obviously more to it and I would recommend you get Martin Edge's book and read about it as well.... Hope you have a good trip!
  16. Thanks.... Did a little comparison of lift vs approx cost however this does not take into account the negative buoyancy of the Ultralight 8" Double Ball Arm segment as I dont know what it weighs. Ultralight 8" Large Buoyancy arm - 2" diameter - $68 - Lift 4.5 oz Ultralight 8" Double Ball Arm segment - $66 - 12 oz StiX 6" Strobe Arm with 2 large floats - $45 - 9 oz Seems like the Stix arms is the best value for money but I am afraid of them getting munched up by the ULCS clamps...
  17. Hello, I am getting some buoyancy for my camera and have seen that 2 x 6 inch Stix arms with floats will cost about 100, as opposed to getting two 8 inch ULCS arms and floats which would cost about 130. My existing setup uses ULCS clamps, are they compatible with Stix Arms or will the damage the ball at the end of the Stix arms which appears to be rubber? Would appreciate anyone's advise on this. Cheers, John
  18. Hi Stoo, Completely agree with that...a friend recommended the same book to me and it really got me going. Towards the end of the book it started getting a bit above my level of comprehension as I only started but I would like to pick it up again soon as I am sure there is more I can learn from this book. Cheers, John
  19. Hi Randy, I dont do surf photography however when I started underwater photography fellow divers have been more than happy to share camera settings with me so getting started was easy enough. It looks like it is a bit tougher to get this info for surf photography so a good place you can find pointers pointers on camera settings is on Flickr. Some users leave their exif data switched on and that will show the settings used for a particular photo. The way to recognize whether or not the data is available is to click on a photo, then look at the description on the right hand side where it names the photographer, if the is data is available it will also mention the camera brand used for the photo. When you click on the camera name it will give you the complete breakdown of the camera settings used including whether it was in Manual, Aperture priority, Shutter priority or Auto, plus the actual shutter speed, aperture and ISO. Here are a couple publicly listed examples I found. http://www.flickr.com/photos/bluewavechris.../in/photostream http://www.flickr.com/photos/michaelbarrus...ol-88109984@N00 Just browse Flickr and I am sure you will find more. Cheers, John
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