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About clernix

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  1. I am currently in Phuket Thailand and need a housing repair the rear windo broke out of my NA 7000. The window is still in only the screws broke. Does anyone know of a repair shop that n Phuket.
  2. I have some battery corrosion on the connection pins of my ys-250. What is the best way to clean that off?
  3. I own the 85mm AFS-VR. They are without a doubt good lenses. I was just curious if anyone is using older model lenses. The glass is actually really good in some of the older lenses. While they do have drawbacks but I was wondering if anyone had any adivice on how they overcame them. Or has everyone just switched to the newer lenses. One of the reasons I bought the D7100 was the lens focus motor in the housing. It opens up a larger line of lenses. Then I end up buying lenses with focus motors. It was just something I was curious about.
  4. From what I can tell there are three versions of the Nikon micro 105mm. The newest and most pricey being the 105 AF-S VR. (forgive me if I am getting some of the discriptive letters wrong). I realize on the older versions when you focus on 1:1 the lens extends out and becomes very long. I haven't shot with it but the first disadvantage that comes to mind is light. Are there others? Do people shoot with the AI-S or the AF version of lenses in general. The price difference is pretty significant.
  5. I recently had a housing flood on my Nauticam NA-D7000 and lost my Nikon 85mm Macro. The camera survived believe it or not. Had it serviced and it checked out. Now I have to buy a new macro lens. If I upgrade to the 105 mm I have to by an extension ring for about $280 and the lens runs about double. So I am in for about $1200 instead of $500. When I am shooting macro I am mostly shooting with an SMC (super macro converter). If people could weigh in on the advantage in relation to price. Thanks
  6. Thanks for your help. Great pics BTW
  7. I am going to take a deep dive into macro photography and I had a couple questions about diopters. If I am shooting something as small as a nudibranch with a 85mm macro lens (Nikkor). Is a diopter still needed? Does someone have a shot with a diopter and without one for comparison? Also can I use AF with a diopter?
  8. Ok at this point all I see is spots. The strobes fire in manual. They don't fire when set to ttl, If I understand the manual that setting can only be used when using a hardwired 5 pin cable or converter. The strobes also fire in the slave position one and two which is for one pre-flash or two. Hi Rodd, "Your strobes (connected via fiber optic and in TTL mode) will mimic the output from your camera's flash. This includes the output of the pre-flash! So when your camera pre-flashes, your strobes do so too. The camera then interprets the amount of light it "thinks" is needed to light the scene and sets the flash output - which is then mimicked again by your strobes. Does that help?" Adam This post was on a linked forum page. If I understand correctly then I can shoot in the ttl setting on my camera by setting my strobe to either one or two and my strobe will match the power of the output of my camera flash? I don't understand how a light single can be matched but i guess technology is wonderful.
  9. Very good advice Diver Dave. It's a rainy weekend this week. Sounds like a really good project!
  10. First off thanks everyone for all your help. It looks like it was a setting issue. I just spoke with Reef Photo and they were very helpful. They confirmed the link in Coinee's post. I assumed I had to set the camera to manual for the internal strobe and set the strobes to slave. The rep stated to set the internal strobe to TTL and the strobes to TTL. Honestly I still don't get why that wouldn't work. The internal strobe fires and the slave fires. I pretty much had them set the way Davichin posted.
  11. I have searched the internet and can't find anything on this topic. Can someone give me an idea on the life of a strobe or at what point a servicing is needed? I bought a pair of YS-250. They look great both fire but as I mentioned in my previous post I am struggling with them. I can't seem to get any power out of them. Flash on the camera is set to manual But I have to be right on the reef to get a shot. Keep in mind I am moving up from a 4/3 system shooting in live view. The previous owner had them for about three to four years and used them maybe 8-10 times a year. I can't imagine that is any usage on these strobes. Again both fire, seals are good. Am I right in the assumption on the usage or should the be sent in? Or is it I am expecting to much? Maybe I am asking the wrong question. At what distance will these strobe fully illuminate a reef? Thanks for any help.
  12. The question on the vacuum pump vs TTL is due to the fact that the Nauticam housing only has one opening to either put in a hot shoe cable of a vacuum pump. At least that I am aware of if there is another option I would LOVE to hear it. Having both the vacuum seal and TTL would really make my day. Could either of you confirm this statement. If the strobes are firing then they are pretty much in good shape. Is it possible for a strobe to fire weaker than it should out of some technical issue? I am trying to save myself sending in my strobes due to my inexperience with the DSL system. Shooting micro 4/3 was so much easier! But I have to admit when it did work I got a couple great shots.
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